Mornin' All...
Ah the joy of no grease.......second hand rear wheel/drive hub/ new cush rubbers bolts for plate and a new spider all in all £400 but she's good now.
Ahh! a familar site, though now a distant memory
I'm going to do a final drive realignment as well.
Wise Sir...infact very commendable as it is a task seldom thought of What's involved in re alignment ?
When, after all the cleaning, replacing parts, re-lubricating don't just put the rear wheel back in and ride away.
1) Instead loosen the four (4) nuts / bolts that attach the final drive assemble to the swingarm. (I take the nuts off and put a small drop of 'locktite' 243
BLUE and then tighten finger tight.)
2) Returtn the rear wheel, spacer, brake caliper and push the axle through and then tighen the axle as specified.
3) Begin to re-tighen (torque), the final drive attachment bolts. You'll only get two of them successfully with the wheel in, three at best with the proper tools. (these are enough to hold the final drive alligned to the wheel)
4) Unfasten the rear wheel axle nut and remove the axle, caliper, spacer and wheel to enable a 'cleaner' go at re-tightening the remaining final drive attachement nut and bolt.
5) If you haven't a tension wrench to tighten these attachment fasteners then use a
ring spanner to
secure the bolt from rotating and a
ring/ open-end combination spanner to rotate and
tighen the nut unto the spring washer. Using this method and tools will prevent the bolts from being over tensioned.
6) Return the wheel as in step 2...too easy.
I do this about every 50 to 60K when I replace the dampers as by then they have usulally reached their use by date. I also 'flip' over the alloy lug guides.
Abe's pics though show these components have chaffed against the wheel, their I.D.'s are quite spherical as usually on the mating side with the splined coupling they become elongated and as long as they have
not chaffed, this practice doesn't seem to prove detremental.
Just a thought.
Ciao, the can :-)