OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => What have you done in the shed today => Topic started by: alans1100 on July 18, 2019, 06:29:42 PM
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I started installing these this afternoon. All I can say is that it was much easier on the 1100 than on the 1300. Finding somewhere to feed the wires even after removing the RH fairing panel was almost impossible
Not finished yet but wiring all connected as it's supposed to be but so far driving lights not working. No power getting to the on/off switch so might have to check the connection to the high beam wire at the globe plug.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/01/02/6530064636d952793e99dd85a2bdaf38.jpg)
This the wiring.
One side of fuse to Battery Positive.
Negative from Relay to Earth.
Wiring from switch I went red to the blue high beam wire and black to earth. White wire feeds the relay from the switch
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/01/02/6bfdbf69bcb008d0858de19362d28c05.jpg)
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All okay and working. The joiner I used for feed wire connection on the high beam wire didn't connect properly so I removed it and soldered the joint. In the process of putting all the plastic back on and mounting the LH light. Updating this while having a late lunch.
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Just a brief write up
Had to get the girl half naked before I could do anything
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/25c6ace87b1445f288f94e5c13308e1d.jpg)
With made up wiring harness bought with the lights this was the only place for the fuse which I tucked up behind the green OEM plug. One end to the battery and the other going to relay with the negative wire from there going to the front side panel bolt.
The white wire doesn't need to be that long and it's just tucked up there for now. I'm not happy with the location of the relay and I need to get more wire of the correct size before I can move it.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/c880a9728b1eda26233e3876a170fd15.jpg)
I managed to get the wiring around the back of the frame and followed the OEM wiring harness
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/1007aa11aba04fb9ebf4b1fff6ea1293.jpg)
The new (red & black) wiring separates here for the left and right sides. The switch earth wire (not shown) is secured to the bolt on the right side of the image.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/92b2eb7d0551efd65e4240012b56cb40.jpg)
The plug on the end of the RH harness. It took awhile to source the female side of the plug but had to by both male and female parts of the plug and they wired which was good.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/13a0340aaaeb493bd0c6d1ecabe76e60.jpg)
RH mirror and police light mount fitted
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/18/5bbe0e707b927b34a4bb44f95f2cb4e2.jpg)
Before I could mount the left side I had to tidy and secure the wiring and make sure everything worked which it didn't by the end of day one.
Day two to follow.
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Just got back from lining the beams up. Not as good as the HID on our 1100 but there's more light up close on both sides the road where the high beam tends to no throw as much light and the danger zone for Skippy and her friends.
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The saga continues.
Day 2.
Lights not working when they should they were connected and until that was sorted I couldn't put the bike back together.
Heather got me a circuit tester which I hadn't even taken out of the packaging but no idea where it was and it did eventually get found and I went ahead with checking the added wiring.
I suspected that the feed wire from the high beam circuit wasn't getting power to the switch as an easy solution I used a wire joiner which has worked for me in the past
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/20/918d15dffa6b5c266fd80a59c2e45b69.jpg)
So I removed the joiner and connected the red wire to the blue high wire directly for the test which was successful.
Rather then tempt fate I left it as it was and got the soldering tool out and soldered the joint and wrapped it in electrical tape.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/20/41bcbd3deb8a0b0f4643968e3f013302.jpg)
The only issue left is locate the switch and with it having a sticky back it was mount just behind the right fairing pocket lid.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/19/fe82fb303c73b057f180f7990489cc48.jpg)
Eventually the bike is back together, the LH mirrow and light can be mounted the photo with all lights working is taken.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/07/19/8a33b470677489e3afa3a161954b5dc1.jpg)
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Great update. Well done on a another upgrade
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Ahh the scotch-lock....responsible for more electrickery gremlins than any other auto electric connection in the universe. ;-*
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NEVER EVER use a scotchlock, they destroy wiring. If you must break into a line use the correct but connect, and use the Narva brand ones, not the jaycar one
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NEVER EVER use a scotchlock, they destroy wiring. If you must break into a line use the correct but connect, and use the Narva brand ones, not the jaycar one
Looks the same to me except for the colour https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/narva-56060bl?utm_source=myshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Auto+Parts&utm_term=Narva+56060BL+Wire+Tap+Connectors+6+pack+
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I use the pin type cable taps instead of scotchlocks, seem good, and don't seem to damage cables. Can't remember what they are called though
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
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I use the pin type cable taps instead of scotchlocks, seem good, and don't seem to damage cables. Can't remember what they are called though
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
They're called PosiTaps...use them all the time and never had issues across about 6 bikes
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Looks the same to me except for the colour
The Jaycar crimps are a plastic sleeve, with tinned copper sleeve to crimp the wire, the Narva crimps have a copper sleeve that also grips the insulation providing a much stronger joint.
See this pic.
(https://dbve060ocfe16.cloudfront.net/ts1529379579/images/rp_760x500/Product/2639/56144.tag.0.png)
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They're called PosiTaps...use them all the time and never had issues across about 6 bikes
I like that idea but I can certainly use some of the connectors when I relocate the relay
https://youtu.be/UebuibppogY
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Looks the same to me except for the colour
The Jaycar crimps are a plastic sleeve, with tinned copper sleeve to crimp the wire, the Narva crimps have a copper sleeve that also grips the insulation providing a much stronger joint.
Sorry Brock but crimping just doesn't work for me. I forget how many have failed while crimping. I have more success with my crappy soldering than I do with crimping.
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Allan.
To crimp properly, you need the right sizes crimps, and proper crimping tool. I have been using crimps for 40ish years and haven't had any fail.
Cant afford failures in aircraft.
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They're called PosiTaps...use them all the time and never had issues across about 6 bikes
I like that idea but I can certainly use some of the connectors when I relocate the relay
https://youtu.be/UebuibppogY
I also use the connectors...but as with any wire to wire connection I place a heatshrink sleeve over it wether using posiconnectors or soldering...just gives me peace of mind