Author Topic: Oils, let the debate begin.  (Read 55366 times)

Offline alans1100

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #75 on: July 11, 2012, 08:45:20 PM »
While I was in Port Pirie today I called into Supacheap (convenient) to see what they had in the way of filters/oils for the bike.

I'd found the RYCO Z436 and Z411 filters so I got the Z411 as it was closest to my 1100 filter in lenght and it cost $11.48.

I looked at diesel oil and most were 15W-30 or 15W-40.
Most of the car oils were also in the 15W-30, 40 or 50 range.
Only one brand had 10W-40 and 5W-60

Oil wasn't a need as I have some at home and I was just seeing what was there for later.

Next I had a look in KMart, they only had Shell and only one was suitable for the bike HX7 5W-60. Both Shell diesel oils were 15w-40. (HX5 Diesel and Rimula)

In my local Foodland supermarket I can get Castrol 10W-40 if I get desparate.......or Black and Gold lol
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Online Skip

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #76 on: October 27, 2012, 07:27:28 AM »
Well after using PM800 through 2000 ltrs of fuel, here is my experience.
It has made no difference in my consumption figures through the ST. It has only 35,000 on the clock.
It did make a slight difference with my Navara, turbo diesel, but once again, a very young vehicle in terms of Km's. It returned figures almost identical to using premium diesel, but the additive is the cheaper option.
Here is the good news Rocketeer.
I gave my hard working young son a bottle to use through his 'not so young' Cruiser ute, a non turbo diesel. He is a carpenter so tows a builders trailer all week. It appears to have made a significant difference in his vehicle. He has seen about a 25% decrease in his fuel consumption. This may be a combination of the additive and the fact that he scored a set of brand new Genie headers for free around the same time so it is impossible to say which has had the greatest impact. He will run it without the PM for a while and I will let yorl know how that goes.
Sooo, it would appear from my experience that the additive has very little benefit on a young healthy engine but anything with some age and k's on it may find some or a significant benefit.
I know a lot of you have tried the PM800 as well.
What have been your findings?
Cheers.
Skip.
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Online STeveo

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #77 on: October 27, 2012, 11:25:40 AM »
My 1100 has 129,000km and the PM800 after 4 tank fuls made no difference to consumption or how it ran. My BF Falcon 115,000km made big difference to economy, about 3Lts/100 better after 3 tanks. Now doing the same through Wendy's ED Falcon 285,000km to help it. Will not be using it in every tankful as I think it un necessary, and six tanks later without BF still on same economy. I see this product as a good fuel system cleaner, but not as a miracle economy booster or fixer of engine problems.

 :bl11
 

Offline Brock

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #78 on: October 27, 2012, 12:49:17 PM »
The really important thing is, that it has not made anything worse...
Brock
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Online Skip

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #79 on: October 27, 2012, 12:55:09 PM »
Thanks champion. Thats a great comfort. I believe you guys in the west were trialling it as well. Any feed back?
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Offline Brock

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #80 on: October 27, 2012, 01:07:19 PM »
I ran 4 tanks full, with PM800, compared the fuel usage with 4 tanks before, and 4 tanks after. The only difference I have noticed is that I didnt need to use the choke over winter. Fuel consumption differed a little, but no enough to matter when doing a statistical comparison.

.
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Online Skip

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #81 on: October 27, 2012, 01:30:25 PM »
Thanks Brock.  :thumb
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Offline rocketeer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #82 on: October 27, 2012, 03:37:00 PM »
Thanks for posting your feedback guys, it's great that you are all able to compare notes.

I do find it a little unusual that so many bikes at once say little or no improvement, though I have known some bikes (and toyota petrol vehicles) to take some time to get full benefit.  It doesn't seem to matter if old or new, rather seems to come down to make & model.  I'm starting to wonder if the ST's are among the very few models to take some time to gain benefit, those who have run this in Falcons and found significant improvement is typical- ford and holden 6' are the most  reliable to predict.

It's up to you guys whether or not you run every tank, every second or every so often.  My personal advice is to run it regularly, I still have yet to see a vehicle not make significant gains, though 2,000 litres is definantly a fair go, and definantly the longest trial I have heard of with no benefit.  I will ask, has there been any benefit to throttle response?  (No choke in winter was a common result in older carb bikes, one in particular I can't think of at the moment).

I am no longer working with PM, though still recommend their gear in all cases as it was not a decision based on the quality of their products.  Still happy to help out where I can- as I still believe they are the best choice for Australian vehicles.

Brad

 

Offline rocketeer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #83 on: October 27, 2012, 03:39:28 PM »
FJ1100, that's the one I was trying to think of....
 

Online Skip

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #84 on: October 27, 2012, 03:51:08 PM »
Thanks Brad. Hopefully some of the other users will post their findings as well.
Cheers.
Skip.
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Offline Brock

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #85 on: October 27, 2012, 04:26:13 PM »
Thanks for your input Brad, nice to know that you are still around.

May be in the new year I will do a longer trial to see if prolonged use has better benefit. Maybe it shows that the STs as a whole have great engines to start with (we know that already dont we ??).

I have read of people spending mega dollars to make the ST go better, with the end result being   $$$$$$$$ and no improvement.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2012, 04:29:58 PM by Brock »
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Offline Shiney

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #86 on: February 27, 2013, 10:51:45 PM »
Just :think1 I'd add this in here :thumb


On Diesel's advice (quoted below)...

...
I have returned to using... (don't laugh).... Shell Helix Diesel Oil and Ryco Z436 oil filter nowadays as no significant performance/economy boost from their expensive cousins was noticed.

Cheers, Diesel


I am now using Shell Helix HX5 Diesel Engine Oil - 15W-40
$34.49 from Supercheap Auto
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Shell-Helix-HX5-Diesel-Engine-Oil-15W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=215339#Cross



And the Ryco Oil Filter - Z436
$12.95 from Supercheap Auto
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Z436.aspx?pid=155611#Combo



Full oil and filter change for under $50 I like it :grin :grin

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Offline Brock

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #87 on: February 27, 2013, 11:01:15 PM »
Just looked up the specs for the oil for the 1300, for a thread that seems to have disapeared.

The specs are the same for the 1100 I think.  For the general Oz temp range, 0C to 40C

20W-40/50 API spec SE, SF or better (15W-40 might be a little thin for the summer) No friction modifiers.

To me that says there is no need to outlay $100.00 for the latest silicon joby when the Repco $40.00 will do the same job.

Saying that, I still have the PM403 oil in the sump, and its coming up for 15000Ks and is working fine. Would I get it again??? Yes if it was readily available in the West.
Brock
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Offline Diesel

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #88 on: February 27, 2013, 11:22:37 PM »
Full oil and filter change for under $50 I like it :grin :grin

Thanks Diesel :hatwave



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Offline gaz

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #89 on: February 27, 2013, 11:25:38 PM »
Full oil and filter change for under $50 I like it :grin :grin

Thanks Diesel :hatwave



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Offline rocketeer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #90 on: February 28, 2013, 06:00:48 AM »
Just looked up the specs for the oil for the 1300, for a thread that seems to have disapeared.

The specs are the same for the 1100 I think.  For the general Oz temp range, 0C to 40C

20W-40/50 API spec SE, SF or better (15W-40 might be a little thin for the summer) No friction modifiers.

To me that says there is no need to outlay $100.00 for the latest silicon joby when the Repco $40.00 will do the same job.

Saying that, I still have the PM403 oil in the sump, and its coming up for 15000Ks and is working fine. Would I get it again??? Yes if it was readily available in the West.



And that there is the problem, PM is still by far the best product I have come across, but the company just isn't ready to move outside their comfort zone.

15,000km on that oil it should still be fine, I am betting just changing the filter is all you would need.  Regular filter changes will keep the oil far fresher and I would suggest in these bikes being so clean running 25,000 to 30,000 wouldn't be unreasonable.  To be sure, take a sample of the oil within 5 minutes of shutdown, put it into a container (I use specimine jars from the chemist- about $1 each) post it to PM with information on your bike, current km, km on oil, and they will test it for you for free.  Apart from finding out how degraded the oil is, it tells you what some of the contaminants are and whether it's all within spec.

 

Offline Brock

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #91 on: February 28, 2013, 08:38:56 AM »
I have a spec bottle in the cupboard just waiting to do that. I changed the filter 5000Ks ago, dont plan on changing the oil for another 5000ks or so.

If anyone in the west is interested, i may try for another group buy of the PM403 if the deals is as good as last time.
Brock
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Offline ulti682

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #92 on: May 06, 2013, 07:20:56 PM »
 :blk11

Hi guy's, is there a reason most of you seem to be using diesel oil in your st 1100???
 

Offline rocketeer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #93 on: May 06, 2013, 08:54:35 PM »
Typically higher zinc levels than api sn or sm spark oils
 

Offline Biggles

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #94 on: May 06, 2013, 09:00:02 PM »
Typically higher zinc levels than api sn or sm spark oils

So what's zinc for?
Good or bad?
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Offline rocketeer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #95 on: May 06, 2013, 10:10:49 PM »
Good.  Generally the higher the zinc (among with phosphorus and calcium) themore ability to resist breakdown under pressure and heat,  in all less metal contact which means less friction therefore less heat and wear.  It's these additives that push the cost up of well built oils
 

Offline Biggles

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #96 on: May 10, 2013, 08:42:21 AM »
I used Shell Helix HX5 15W 40 for my last oil change.
I honestly think the motor is the smoothest it's ever been.  It seems to be purring.  You wouldn't think one could notice a difference, but I'm attributing it to the oil.  It's the first time I've used it, and mainly chose it because it was on special for $22.99 for 5 litres.  I'd also seen plenty of references to Shell Helix varieties.

For the modern man who lives in the city, riding a bike might be one of the only ways to escape the humdrum monotony. To take off and ride. To be both at one with nature and one with the bike. To feel masculine. Adam Piggott

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Offline jimwilly

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #97 on: June 06, 2013, 01:19:12 PM »
Just did my first oil change, the transmission felt really notchy on my last ride.
I used Bel-ray semi synth, I've never us it before but was out for $55.00 so I'll give it a go.
I found it a lot easier than my old blackbird, did the job without having to remove any fairing panels.
 

Offline youngSTer

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #98 on: June 25, 2013, 01:17:53 PM »
 I have just discovered that when  I last had the oil changed by a "mechanic" that he used car engine oil.

This caused what sounded like a tappet rattle but was actually the oil causing a hydraulic pressure build-up because the "mechanic" had put 5.1 litres into my ST instead of 3.9 litres.

Here is what I have found on the net regarding Oil.

Do not use Car engine oils in Motorbikes ...
Another one of my wiki pages ..
Car oils in Bikes ?
A lot of people have used engine oils meant for cars in their bikes and claim that there is absolutely nothing wrong in doing so since they cannot find any damage .

The damage is certainly not perceptible to you , but such engine oils undoubtedly damage the internals . A brief intro for those who don't want to read the lengthy post-

Most car oils are rated as API SF, SG, SL and the latest being SM (not yet avail in India)

These ratings are given once in three years and each new rating is an improvement over the previous one . The ratings are in the same order as the English alphabets . The newer is better . so SM is better than SL and SL is better than SG etc.

Car engine oils have friction modifiers in them . Motorbike engine oils - specifically four stroke engines with a wet clutch multi-plate set-up do not require oils with friction modifiers . Modifiers can increase or decrease the friction , but most of the modifiers used are to reduce friction.

In my earlier post I wrote to synthetic oils I have already explained why synthetic oils sometimes cause the clutch to slip .

Recap - Synthetic Oils
Recap - synthetic oils meant for cars when used in bike will cause clutch to slip because car synthetic oils have friction reducers which are not required in wet clutch motorbikes. The oil in wet clutch motorbikes need the oil only as a coolant not a lubricant . The lubing is required for the engine and not the clutch in this case. Hence use only specially formulated motorbike syth oils and not Mobil 1 etc in bikes. Synthetic oils are available for motor bikes specifically - ex Motul 300V.




Bike spec oils
Coming back - The SL and SM ratings have friction reduction modifiers which are required in cars but for the same reason as explained above, they are not suitable for wet clutch multi plates . Apart from the clutch it is reported to cause damage to engine as well . The links for all of this is given below.

The only API ratings that are applicable to most Indian motorbike engines are oils that are of API SF or SG ratings . Check any bike manual and most of them are of this specification .

The only body which is rates oils for use in 4 stroke wet clutch bikes is JASO - Japanese Automotive Standards Organisation (http://www.jsae.or.jp/e07pub/jaso_e.html) . There are two ratings from JASO - MA and MB . MA for hi friction engines and MB for low friction engines . MB is never recommended for any Indian bike . As explained previously its for low friction application - not for our kind of bikes.

Always use JASO MA grade oil . It doesn't matter what the API rating is , if its JASO MA - you are guaranteed that the clutch won't slip and as long as the oil is not API SL and above you are guaranteed that the oil is not harming the engine. All the relevant links are given below.

Resarch from the Net
From http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/

Rather than continue to rely on specifications dedicated to auto mobiles, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (or JASO) developed its own set of tests specifically for motorcycles. JASO now publishes these standards, and any oil company can label its products under this designation after passing the proper tests. JASO offers two levels of certification, MA (high friction applications) and MB (low friction applications). JASO requires that the entire product label be approved before it can carry its label. If a label does not have a box with a registration number above the MA or MB lettering, it could be non approved oil whose manufacturer claims its products meet JASO standards when it may not have actually passed the tests.


These standards also include a test specifically designed to measure the oil's effect on clutch lock-up, as well as heat stability and several other factors related to motorcycle engines. Our advice here is pretty simple: Read your manual, and if it calls for an API SG oil, use that. Don't substitute a higher API designation oil like SL, because it will contain less of some additives like phosphorus, and it may contain other additives that will yield higher fuel economy in a car but could cause slippage in your clutch. (More on that later.)



Why should you not use car engine oil in bikes
http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/oil_opinion.html

None of the arguments I've provided so far have relied on the familiar old ideas about motorcycle engines being harder on oil than car engines that are so contentious in the debate. What I've presented so far is sufficient to show why you should not use modern typical car oil in typical motorcycles. But let's at least mention some of the old reasons.

Zinc from ZDDP. Zinc is an anti-wear additive typically found in motorcycle-specific oils at higher levels than in car oils. The chemical that provides it is ZDDP, zinc alkyl dithiophosphate.
Phosphorus from ZDDP. This ingredient is helpful for preventing gear wear. It is used in motorcycle engine oils to help protect the transmission. But phosphorus is bad for catalytic converters, so car oils, which are not used to lubricate transmission gears, have very little phosphorus.
Viscosity. The common car oils are 10W30 or lighter, like 5W30 and 10W30. These are too thin for motorcycles. Most motorcycles call for 10 W 40 or heavier in order to support bearings, resist against consumption due to volatility, and so on.
The debate over factors such as these often revolves around questions of the degree to which your engine actually experiences the extreme conditions that specialized formulations are intended to protect against, the degree to which simple use of ordinary oil with a much higher frequency of replacement would offer similar protection, and the relatively high cost of motorcycle-specific oils.

Anecdotal stories abound, but as single data points, they're not worth much. When the motorcycle manufacturers themselves, who have no vested interest in whose oil you buy, warn against the use of car oil for specific reasons, and when the oil industry itself acknowledges this difference in requirements by responding with a new set of standards for motorcycle-specific oils, I think it is pretty safe to put your trust in the recommendation that you should not use the modern SL "Energy Conserving" oils in your motorcycle......"



More good reasons why you don't want to use car oil in bikes
http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

Q: IS AUTOMOTIVE MOTOR OIL BAD FOR A MOTORCYCLE?

A: Not bad, but probably not the best. Why not? It is designed in reverse order to a motorcycle oil. The priority hierarchy of automotive motor oil is: (1) Maximize fuel economy. (2) Reduce emissions. (3) Offer protection for the moving parts. Today's automotive motor oils do not have the same degree of extreme pressure and anti-wear agents that they did just a decade ago."

Q: WILL AUTOMOTIVE MOTOR OIL HURT MY BIKE?

A: It could. If you're using an automotive motor oil in your racing four-stroke, you're not buying the best protection. An API SL oil is missing vital anti-wear components: the most common being zinc, phosphorus and sulphur. These agents are harmful to the catalyst that is used to diminish the level of pollutants in auto mobile exhaust.

Q: WILL AUTOMOTIVE OIL HURT MY CLUTCH?

A: Yes. The friction modifiers in motor oil improve fuel economy by making it easier for the gears, bearings, pistons and rings to slip, slide and turn inside the engine. Unfortunately, these friction-minimizing agents also make it easier for the clutch in a motorcycle to slip. If you are using automotive motor oil in your bike, apart from CRFs, you are losing hook-up and acceleration, as well as reducing the life of the clutch.

Q: WHY SHOULD I MEMORIZE THE ACRONYM "JASO"?

A: As soon as it became apparent that the American government was mandating economy over protection, the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) developed a standard specifically for performance four stroke motorcycles. JASO designates two different four-stroke oil classifications: MA and MB. The MB oil is low friction and the MA is sans the friction enhancers.

Q: WHY ARE MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OILS BETTER?

A: Motorcycle specific oils are pumped up with five times the anti-wear, anti-scuff and extreme pressure additives of regular motor oil. As an added plus, motorcycle oil does not include molybdenum disulphide and other friction modifiers that wreak havoc on clutch performance.

Maxima, a popular motorcycle oil supplier, starts with an API SG Service Category base oil, the last formulation that wasn't regulated as to the amount of zinc-dialkyldithiophosphate (zinc, phosphorus and sulphur) it could contain. Maxima then boosts protection through a proprietary mix of performance additives. The end result is a motorcycle oil that doesn't break down under extreme heat and is tough enough to cushion meshing gears.

Q: WHICH FOUR-STROKE RACING OIL SHOULD I USE?

A: If the bottle of oil doesn't list that it is an API SG Service Category or JASO MA spec, it's not good enough for your motocross bike. Although a bottle of oil might say "motorcycle specific" or "safe in wet clutches," the best endorsement is the API SG or JASO MA designation. It's better to be safe than sorry.



Finally the best answer your can get
http://www.motorexuk.com/info/jaso.html

In many 4-stroke motorbikes, the motor oil lubricates the transmission and clutch as well as the engine. If a car grade motor oil is used clutch slipping may occur at high power loads. But if you see the JASO MA specification on the oil container, you can be sure that the clutch will always bite.

Motorcycle engines place different demands on motor oils than do passenger vehicles. In the case of passenger vehicles, the focus is on fuel economy and extended oil change intervals, factors that by the nature of things are not important with motorcycles. On bikes, engines offering increasingly higher torques and R.P.Ms are being used to generate more and more power. And this is where oil additives are causing the wet clutches used on bikes to slip.

JASO MA Offers an answer

In response to the requests from leading motorcycle manufacturers, the Japanese Auto mobile Standards Organisation (JASO) has introduced JASO MA and MB, the first specifications to apply solely to motor oils for 4-stroke motorcycle with wet clutches. These standards set additional lubricant requirements beyond the spark-ignition motor oil grades defined by API or ACEA.

The JASO T 903 bench test determines coefficients of friction under various operating conditions compared with the reference oil. The results allow oils to be divided into two categories:

MA = Non Slipping Oil
MB = Slipping Oil
Coefficient of friction measurements that conform to MA requirements guarantee that clutch slipping will not occur under any load condition on even the most high performance racing bikes. These values are therefore specified by leading motorcycle manufacturers...."

from http://www2.petrobras.com.br/produto.../perguntas.htm

The additive levels recommended for four-cycle motorcycles are generally characteristic of oils with API SF or SG performance. API SH, SJ and SL oils have an additive level that could be detrimental to the running of the motorcycle gear system, which is also lubricated by the engine oil.

Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then ?
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Q. Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then?

A. No you can't.

Well, actually you can in some cases. The real answer to this question lies in the type of motorbike you own. If you own a Bike with a wet clutch (ie. where the clutch sits partially submerged in the sump oil) and you dump car oil into it, all sorts of nasty things happen. Oils formulated for car engines have friction-modifiers in them. When the engine oil gets into the clutch, the friction-modifiers get to work and you'll end up with a clutch that won't bite. Bike oils generally don't have friction-modifiers, so they don't have this problem. If you're not sure, check for a JASO MA spec on the bottle. If you see that on the label, then it means the oil has been tested and confirmed to work with a wet clutch. ......"

Summary

According to the latest JASO documentation available here - Latest JASO Documentation (http://http://jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV0604.pdf)

The API ratings are primarily meant for "gasoline engines " and really more applicable to cars etc than bikes. This has been known for a long time . But the manufacturers always mention both API and JASO ratings since these take on different amount of significance in different markets . Finally I was able to find definitive proof that API ratings need not be taken into consideration at all . At the most it can be regarded as the least important factor in deciding engine oils for your motorbike .

The above PDF file explains the same in a very lucid manner . Pls download it and go through Page 8 , section 3.4

So the only ratings we have to consider to be extremely important are JASO MA and the Viscosity index.

API rating is usually for car oils . The ratings are given once in about 3 years or so . Each new rating refers to improvement over the previous version . Ex - SL is better than SG and SM better than SL and SG etc. but what you have to note is that these are ratings for engine oils to be used in passenger cars . (the API website refers to passenger car engines as automotive engines - just look at the spec chart . Ratings for motorbike engine oils is not given by API but still , that std is followed even for motorbike engines in the USA . JASO is the body which gives specific oil ratings for motor bike engine oils.)
No matter what the API rating is , Unless a given grade of oil is rated as JASO MA , or unless the manufacturer claims that it is JASO MA certified , do no use it in your Bike since JASO MA is the only standard rating in the world to be referred to when you use engine oils in your 4 stroke motorbike engines which have a wet clutch multi-plate set-up.

Do not use JASO MB - it is for low friction engines and it is not for use in our bikes . Check the manual of your motorbike - the recommended engine oil is always JASO MA and not MB.

Thus , passenger car oils are not suitable for motorbikes in most cases . There are very rare cases where you a API rated oil which might be rated as SL but still meets JASO MA ratings.
Sometimes I pretend to be NORMAL,
but it gets boring,So I go back to being Me!

Bikes I've had;
Suzuki K10 80cc.
B.S.A. Bantam.
Honda CB450.
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NOW BMW R 1200 RT
 

Offline saaz

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Re: Oils, let the debate begin.
« Reply #99 on: June 25, 2013, 05:04:58 PM »
There is a lot of misunderstandings about oils for motorcycles with wet clutches out there.  If in any doubt go for an oil that has the MA or MA2 wet clutch rating on it.  Not all car oils have friction modifiers to the extent that they will cause clutch slippage, but generally anything promoted as energy conserving will not be suitable.  And there are petrol and diesel oils out there just as good as bike specific oils, but they either don't want to pay for the MA rating or sell motocycle oils for more lol!!

This site seems to be on the money  http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

And it is not true that the latest API oils specs (SN) cannot be met by MA rated oils.  Various penrite oils, both mineral and full synthetic, meet both.  I think those sort of comments confuse meeting MA standards with oils that have too much of certain anti wear additives to meet the latest oil standards, which aim to protect catalytic converters in cars, and increasingly motorcycles.
John
(Ridden on and forever in our hearts)
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