OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Oils, Oil Filters & Servicing ST1100 => Topic started by: creeture3 on October 07, 2016, 09:16:10 PM
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G'day thrillseekers, had an interesting conversation with a seller of aftermarket air filters. I was considering buying a "re-usable" filter until I contacted the seller.
The upshot was: " the ST1100 is sensitive to filters,and, the filter advertised might not be appropriate."
Now this was a well known re-usable/washable filter, and I can only concede to his honesty.
So, the bottom line is: be careful as to what you buy............
Keep the rubber side down................ 8)
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Running a K&N in my '99 and it doesn't seem to be any different to the normal filter. I'd like to know why he believes a mildly tuned carburettered bike would be so sensitive to a change in air cleaner.
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I ran a K&N in my second ST13. They claim an improvement in performance, but as one naysayer pointed out, to do so they would have to be letting more "stuff" into the engine (along with the extra air).
For my third ST13, I've decided that the extra expense and hassle with cleaning (plus the cost of the cleaning kit), I couldn't be bothered. I'll stick with paper filters.
Anyone want a half-used cleaning kit?
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I've decided that the extra expense and hassle with cleaning (plus the cost of the cleaning kit), I couldn't be bothered
Me too, the main reason why I am sticking to the paper filter. By the time you buy the cleaning kit, the time involved,etc.,it's so much easier.......
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Running a K&N in my '99 and it doesn't seem to be any different to the normal filter. I'd like to know why he believes a mildly tuned carburettered bike would be so sensitive to a change in air cleaner.
More than likely it's don't buy their rubbish but buy mine instead.
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If the supplied foan prefilter is used, then the motor chokes. just cant get enough air through the aircleaner
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I am sticking to the paper filter.
I have never seen one of those...I am still using the original Honda OEM filter that was fitted to the bike in 1997...still functioning as is was intended 19 years on. Still has a few more years it, so it'll continue to serve its purpose:-)
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sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?
What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?
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After above...
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF06_zps74062d91.jpg)
Before below...
Too easy :-)
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sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?
Depending on conditions and riding time. If really dusty, like Oodnadatta, probably every 6 months. In the city, probably every 18 months.
What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?
Poor running, high fuel consumption, poor starting, loss of acceleration, poor idling..................
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After above...
Before below...
Too easy :-)
Is that just with compressed air, or do you wash it in something?
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sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?
What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?
The service interval is replace every 18,000km but my first one got done at 120,000 and the current one went at 190,000 (2500km ago)and there was no significant lessening of performance that I noticed.
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Is that just with compressed air, or do you wash it in something?
No Bill...do NOT use compressed air, ever!
Just ensure your Wife is having a day out wither Girls, then...
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF01_zps479002f2.jpg)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF02_zps946fadda.jpg)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF03_zpseb5d5acd.jpg)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF04_zps2f253895.jpg)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/AF05_zpseff5cb44.jpg)
...leave to hang out on a tree (clothes line), until 100% dry...if in Victoria, like now...it may take days...it is what it is ;-)
This particular (owner discarded), filter came outta bike that had a little lie down (I suspect), as it was quite oil clogged...once dried out the filter spacings returned to near normal...too easy
the can :-)
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That's gold, 'Can! Thanks!
I do like Dynamo myself- it does the final wash getting water-based paint out of brushes very effectively.
Even works on clothes in the washing machine.
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Legend Thanks, Richard,,,, :wht11
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Just ensure your Wife is having a day out wither Girls, then...
Yes, sadly they all wither with age, but then I'm not in a condition to criticise!
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True Bill...true :'( ...who'd have thought that a fat thumb and iphone were capable of freudian slips ;-)
So there ya's have it...for those of yas that have spent $$$ on after market air filters and that have the discarded OEM still buried somewhere in the shed, go dig it up and go to town scrubbing it in the laundry sink, you'll be suprised how resiliant it is :wink1 But if no scrubing brush at hand and U spot a carton of washing powder (like cold power), about, then poor a sparing amount in about 2-3 inches of cold water and just slosh the filter back and forth in it for a few minutes, then rinse as shown in the pic above using hot(ish) water, rotating the filter, then hang out to dry for a few days. Job done.
The reason laundry detergents work will is because they're an alkline. You can test this for yourself, just get a small amount, wet a finger, then poke it into the powder. It'll become quite warm quite quickly. And for those out there old enough, you may remember the old Terco cleaning baths in garages and being told not to touch it, but ya did anyway! Well laundry power works the same way, only the ph isnt as brutal as Terco.
Too easy...the can :-)
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So is that it then? Clean, dry and return to service? Would i need to oil it or anything? It's pretty oily now as well as grubby, even though the bike's only done 46000km.
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Well, the air filter is now hanging on a post in the back yard, drying. 8)
I can't remember who it was that suggested looking at the filter in the small black box just in front of the main air filter, but i looked - it looked fine until i touched it and it fell apart. While carrying it around to the m/cycle dealer it turned into mainly dust, wouldn't want that to happen in-situ, so thanks to whoever it was said to look at it. :hatwave
Now, next problem, i was grateful to our local dealer who gave me a bit of filter foam to replace my disintegrated bit, and bought a set of bar risers, been meaning to do that for ages. The riser choices were 20mm or 35 mm so i got 35 mm. Problem is, the handbrake hose is a bit tight even after re-routing it so it goes over and in front of the steering head instead of under and between the forks. Another 20 or 30mm length would be nice - it seems to get a bit of a pinch from the steering head when on full left lock. Anyone got any ideas? Is there a better route for it, and if i decide i need to get the hose lengthened do i need a new hose or is there some way of lengthening the existing one? Thanks for any suggestions. :think1
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Evenin' Mike et al....
Not sure just how you have re-routed that handbrake, but you should not have to extend the hose with the 35mm risers. The master cylinder (lever removed), can successfully be re-located and reattached so that the hose is not stretch when on full L lock.
Unfortunately I dont have bikes (anymore), with that riser height to take a pic of and send to you. Bike one's bars are back to stnd. and bike two has police risers fitted, so no re-routing needed.
Cheers the can :-)
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Thanks, 'Can. :thumbs You know i never thought to relocate the master cylinder! Its a bit late just now so tomorrow I'll go have a look to see how it might be done.
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Mornin'...
From memory, I thought the brake line passed over the top of the triple clamp and was retained with the 'wire' clip on the triple clamp (post riser install), to give it the reach. As opposed to the original routing, beneath the triple clamp. Anyway, by releasing the master cylinder (lever removed), and turning the handle bars from side to side, was able to 'thread' the master cylinder (hose attached), so that the hose attached to the ABS actuator wasnt stretched on full left lock. A bit like fiddling with those metal puzzles, then secured the hose bemeath that 'wire' clamp on the leading edge of the triple clamp.
The master cylinder should be doweled, so when you re-attach it, its in the same place.
Good luck with it....interested in your oppinion once that scrubbed up OEM air filter is totally dry.
Cheers :-)
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I've tried it in just about every position i can, and the best seems to be as you've described, except i've had to relocate the hose to above that locating pin, instead of below it as it was originally. Both above and below are tight with above just a little better. Really, the best position would be exactly where the pin is which would mean cutting it off. As it seems designed to help avoid the hose connection to the master cylinder moving and maybe eventually loosening, that does not seem to be a good idea - maybe?
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Arvo Mike...
If the pin you refer is the dowell that prevents the brake master cylinder rotating on the handle bars, the removing that is a very bad idea. Dont do it.
Rotate the handle bars fwd within their clamps would surely free up the hose, yes.
Cheers :-)
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:think1 Y'know, i thought "brakes are quite important, yes?" then, "Honda engineers designed that bit for a reason hmmm" then i thought "don'tbe a d-head - leave it alone! :eek So i did leave it alone, and by rotating the bars as you said and some micrometric adjustments to every movable part nearby, i got enough play to satisfy me. Thanks for the input. Now, if i reinstall the plastic bits the lock is down a 35 mm hole. I've got three choices; 1. leave the plastic off, 2. make an extension of 35mm on my key, 3. something else. So, about that item 3, any ideas for me? I did see somewhere else in the forums that people had replaced the plastic after bar riser installation.
ps the air filter clean went well and it's back in, took it fora short run and all is good. The new bar position works well for me too, much more relaxed riding position :runyay
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Great to hear the air filter clean up worked well :thumb...was never my idea, I got it from a bloke in 1999 on the old Ozstoc yahoo forum, been using it ever since ;-*
OK as for the fasteners to return and what to leave out....leave out the 2 x M4 screws that attach the lower cowl to the top triple clamp and place in a safe place (keep them!).
Return the 4 scrivets that connect the upper and lower cowl sections and return the 2 x M4 (short), screws that connect the upper and lower cowls.
Return the metal piece that's attached to the upper cowl, just in front of the ignition with the self tapping screw...you will have to bend the hose / wiring loom retainer (attached to to triple clamp), up to achieve this, but retain it!
Fabricate an extension to fix to your ignition key so that it reaches the ignition barrel. Alternatively procure an additional upper cowl section and cut out a provision for a key without an extension...I have one here (I think), if I can find it, I will take a pic and post it.
NOW the bad news...the wind deflection provided by both mirror covers to your hands is now gone...in cold weather you hands will get colder (now outta the slip stream). In addition, you'll be subjected to greater wind noise if your bum is on a stock seat and the screen is also stock. Heated grips and $1 ears plugs will remedy both :thumbs.
Now as I have twin teenage girls (not mine), and Wife at home, I'm off for a bourbon or 3 and sit down outside...Ooo Roo
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:beer Ah, 3 girls in the house - you're well and truly outnumbered, outside with a bourbon is the best place to be.
thanks for the help,
mike
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I didn't bother to put the plastic back on around the bars when I installed the risers on my bike. I found a nice shiney cap to put over the top nut on the triple tree and slipped a modified film canister (remember those) over the ignition switch. I also cleaned the top triple tree up with a bit of a polish and it looks pretty good. If I ever sell it (very unlikely at the moment) it can all be put back to standard quite easily.
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:thumbsup Hi, after putting the plastic back i also decided it looked better with it off. I also found that an end-cap for a 25mm pvc waterpipe was a nice press fit over the top nut. I painted it silver too. Not yet done the 35mm film canister bit, but i think a pvc tube joiner will be a nice fit too. Have to look into it and see which is best, but even without a surround round the ignition barrel it looks OK. Did you do a 35mm riser? I'm still just a tiny bit concerned about the brake line tightness.
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I think my risers were 25mm. If Irecall I had to slightly reroute the brake line but there wasn't any major dramas.
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Evenin’ Mike et al…
Mike... that banjo is the wrong way round!!! It appears you have disconnected the hose from the master cylinder and returned the wrong way round. Look at the angle on your clutch.
I only saw your pic of the dowel after I posted a return to your thread and no, that wasn’t the dowel I was referring to. Oh! Praps best to use a ring spanner hey ;-)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/R5_zpsutho89ak.jpg)
I think returning the handle bar covers looks neater.
What you have pointed to in your pic (and can also be clearly seen in this pic, albeit, the clutch), is the shoulder the enables the brake (clutch), line banjo unions to be secured and removed. You definitely don’t want to remove these!
I found the cover I modified many years ago and fitted it to the bike I presently have in my shed which is fitted with the police spec handle bar risers (15mm), but the fitting of any riser on the later ABS variant 1100 is the same.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/R1_zps3t4pkt6j.jpg)
This is the very first riser adaptation I made to an ABS 1100. I modelled it on a Honda OEM police rise, which has the lower (integral), saddle casting extended 15mm, I simply turned and extension and spacer to 35mm which I got from shoring up the handle bars with pieces of wood until I felt comfortable on the new Corbin dual canyon saddle I’d fitted at that time. I posted it on a web page I had at the time and a chap from the States contacted me a little later, was pure coincidence (arse), which after re-routing the brake line I found that 35mm was pretty much the limit of rise for this 1100 variant without lengthening the hose. Subsequent risers I made I used a bearing quality plastic for the spacer instead of this ridiculously heavy bright mild steel version. I now find that the police spec riser is ample with the Corbin. So these mule risers are no longer used.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/R2_zpsoz3t76zt.jpg)
This is that cut out top cover I made to accommodate the 35mm raised handle bars insitu. Though in the (35mm case), the top of the ignition barrel was 20mm lower than as in this pic and the standard key worked fine. Really don’t need any modification to the top cover or key extension with the police spec riser, all Honda did was remove the soft plastic surround that snuggly fits the top of the barrel. So, remove that and the ABS variant key will reach and work. Will stand corrected, but I seem to remember police spec 1100’s have a longer reach key(?).
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/R3_zpsbl6p1jcp.jpg)
One of the two screws that obviously cannot be returned.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff133/greencan0/R4_zpssdosibmk.jpg)
This is where I re-routed my hose. I thought perhaps that the turning the handle bars would cause the hose to chafe / rub / cut on the sharp edge of the dash underside, but it hasn’t after 16 years on this bike.
So, hope these few pics help. The only visible difference when utilising the 35mm risers, to can see each of the stanchion caps with the covers insitu.
Cheers, the can :-)...N Avamerrychristmas :beer
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Hi 'Can, sorry to take so long to reply - not being rude, just did not get a notification of reply until today!! Maybe my spam filter kicked in when it shouldnt have. Hope you had a great Christmas and New year.
Thanks for the effort, with the pictures and advice and all. Yep, that banjo was wrong and is now correct. :-[ I see what you've done with the plastic, and that would probably work for me too, but with the 35mm riser the key was a long way down the hole and i didn't feel like adding an extension to the key, although that was a possibility too. At present the plastic remains off, i'll attach a pic showing the finish - a bit 'bare' but i don't mind it. With the nut covered and the shroud round the lock barrel it's not too bad - would look better with a bit of a polish of the other brightwork there. (maybe get my new christmas pressie Dremel to work ;-* )
I'll be keeping an eye on the chafing situation at the brake hose, but fingers crossed it won't be an issue. :thumb
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Mornin' Mike et al... :thumb
If, you do decide to return the original plastic and don't want to ruin it by taking a dremel to it and them plastic welding other bits to it as I did. Might I suggest you go to a specialised locksmith and get a new key cut and then extend the section you grasp between thumb n fore finger, rather than trying this on an OEM plastic covered key. The replacement key you will get is cut from plain blank that wont have the added plastic grip, so it'll be much easier to both extend and manipulate through the hole in the top cover.
If you opt for this, get the 3 digit number from any of the barrels that the OEM key opens on the bike (easiest is on the fuel cap), and give that to the locksmith, he'll be able to cut you a replacement key wothout the original, as the plastic grip can be difficult to hold and trace.
Cheers, the can :-)