Honda ST1300 Section > Honda ST1300 General Questions

ST1300 Manual

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Brock:
Here be a link for the ST1300 Manual(Courtesy of Malcolm), it takes a while to download.

 :blu13 :blk13 :slvr13 :rd13 :13Candy

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z8rpn6fkcw9vklu/ST1300-2003Manual.pdf?dl=0

BigTed:
Hi folks, is there much of a difference to the 2010? I think this will be extremely useful for what I want and I doubt I'll be getting that down 'n dirty that any differences will cause a problem - but I figured I'd best ask.

R.

Brock:
I dont think the models changed much over the years, maybe some ofthe electrics, but not the mechanicals.

West Aussie Glen:
The electrics certainly changed from 2008 on. I think the only "mechanical" change was the fitting of a near the rear shock preload adjustment and a matching one on the right hand side. There must have also been some minor change on the rear brakes as the 08 had a recall for the rear brakes. 

West Aussie Glen:
Thought this might be a good place to add this (I copied and saved it from the ST1300.US forum, came from one of the members who really seemed to know his stuff so the distances will be in miles):-

 Re: Maintenance Advice for ST-Green Horn
________________________________________
If I bought a 06 model with no service records I would change all the fluids.
Engine oil, rear end, brake, clutch, coolant.
Start from scratch and treat it exactly as it is, unknown.
Start your service records from this point.
Engine oil/filter 5,000 miles.
Rear end every other engine oil change.
Brake/Clutch 16,000 while the plastic is off to check the valves. Other than fresh tires nothing feels better than fresh brake/clutch fluid.
Coolant every 2 years flush and fill with Type 2 Honda auto coolant. Cool Blue, priceless.
I would pull both clutch and brake handle bar levers and lube the pivot points, clutch especially.
I would have at minimum at look at the air filter. If the mileage was anything near the 12k make I would have a new one on hand.
I think the 12k spark plug change is excessive but I might take a look, they can tell you a lot.
I would have a look that would include removing the front brake callipers. I'm looking at pad wear but also crud build up on the pistons and anything that resembles lube on the pad/calliper pins.
Same with the rear but slightly more involved. The rear in particular tends to collect crud on the pistons and this will cause the brake to drag. Start saving your old tooth brushes. If you have a Harbor Freight handy they have a long bristle tooth brush that is perfect for getting between the pistons. This is done every time the wheel is out. If you don't pull your wheels take a brush with and ask whoever services it to brush the callipers and leave them the brush. Their cheap.
Buy a tube of Moly 60 Paste and take it with you when you have the tires changed. If they have to ask you what it is for find another shop. Ask for your tube back.
It will get poo pooed for sure but the steering stem bearings on the ST came way over torqued. They need grease anyway so grease and correctly torque the steering stem. It will do wonders for how the bike steers.
Your fork oil is crap change it. The springs are crap also start saving your money, less than $100. Well worth the investment.
Set you suspension up for you, pre-load. It will do wonders for the ride.
42/42 in the tires. They do wonders for the ride.


Buy the shop manual even if you are not doing the work.
It's a learning experience.
The Helm manual is the genuine Honda manual.

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