Just had to post this. In 1977, my wife and I left New Zealand on our OE, we took a multi-hop air ticket to Fiji, Rarotonga, Tahiti, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Spokane, Missoula Montana, Minneapolis-St Paul, Washington, Boston, Madrid, Toledo and finally London. We left meaning to be away for a year, and came home four years later.
While in Montana we hired a car and drove through the Glacier National Park over the "Going to the Sun Road" across the Rockies. What a road, and one day I'm going to go back and ride across it on a bike.
I have started to read Mike Hyde's "Twisting Throttle America" and he's just reached - you guessed it - the "Going to the Sun Road" in Montana.
"My route in Montana was more or less one big loop, crossing back into Idaho near Missoula. The reason for the loop was Glacier. Or, more specifically, the Going to the Sun Road. Even the name evokes adventure. As well as bridges and dams, I have an obsession for challenging roads. The Going to the Sun Road traversing Glacier National Park was to be an excellent introduction. RVs and trailers are banned, and there are virtually no guardrails as avalanches wipe them away. Built in 1933, it's open only in the summer as it takes 10 weeks to snowplough. Remember that road from the opening credits of "The Shining"? Jack Nicholson driving his VW up the mountain road towards the haunted hotel? That's the easy side of the Going to the Sun. The Sunday-drive bit. The challenging section is the climb up to Logan Pass from the western end. Heaven's Peak, Bird Woman Falls, Weeping Wall, Haystack Butte, Rising Sun. Even the names of the feature on the way up sound epic.
"At West Glacier I paid my national park entrance fee of $12 and rode in. For miles the road tracked along the shore of Lake McDonald, with only glimpses through the trees towards the huge granite mountains ahead. And then, abruptly, the road started to climb in a series of switchbacks, clearing the tree line and plunging me into a staggering mountain landscape. Vista upon vista of massive, craggy cliff faces and sheer rock walls were almost too hard to take in. The drop-off a few feet to my right at the road edge was hair-raising. The few cars I came up behind were crawling up in first gear. None of the drivers were looking at the view. Much of the road was one-lane, and cars were hugging the rock wall away from the precipitous drop. I had to wait for pull-over points to overtake. Waterfalls cascaded over green, mossy cliffs, and the whole landscape looked primeval. I was stopping in the middle of the roadway frequently to take photos. At one point I came up behind a water tanker spraying water over a dusty unpaved section. Luckily a small road tunnel caused the tanker to pull over and I got past."
Twisting Throttle America, Mike Hyde.