OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => Trailers & Towing => Topic started by: Sulkybear on April 19, 2018, 09:51:32 PM
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Hi all I would like to hear people's opinion on towing my bike behind my car with the equipment pictured below. Are they good, are they bad, can I do long distances using it. Has anyone used them any information would be great.
Thanks
Sulkybear
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Interesting idea. My first thoughts are that it needs to pivot up and down as well as sideways which I don't think it does.
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I deduce the little ramp folds up. But then do those tiny front wheels travel at highway speeds? They are far too small to do more than walking pace. I hope they're just part of the loading structure, and are removed for travel.
The "up and down" pivot would be the bike's front wheel.
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It's one of these things... Looks interesting
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TMS-800-lbs-Motorcycle-Trailer-Hitch-Carrier-Hauler-Tow-Towing-Dolly-XR50-Rack/173126635948?epid=8013943608&hash=item284f26d1ac:g:L4AAAOSw6lRabkgf (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TMS-800-lbs-Motorcycle-Trailer-Hitch-Carrier-Hauler-Tow-Towing-Dolly-XR50-Rack/173126635948?epid=8013943608&hash=item284f26d1ac:g:L4AAAOSw6lRabkgf)
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OK. I see on that advert the rig without the ramp and wheels. Now I wonder how the "up and down" movement works when the bike is tethered to the car by those straps to the handlebars. Obviously it works, or they wouldn't be selling it. AU$135 plus $54 freight from USA seems fair.
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I'd imagine you'd secure the wheel to it allowing for the shocks to do the up and down
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..... can I do long distances using it.....
Define long; Ballarat to Melbourne, or Ballarat to Darwin? Probably depends on how often you wanna replace the rear tyre. Me? I reckon every 15,000km or so is bad enough when I've had 15,000km of fun. If a few '000 of those was not fun, I would not be pleased.
..... it needs to pivot up and down as well as sideways ......
Mmmm .... don't think that's necessary.
..... Obviously it works, or they wouldn't be selling it. AU$135 plus $54 freight from USA seems fair.
You have more faith in the Yanks than I.
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It's an interesting concept, and certainly looks a bit precarious until the bike is trapped on. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSna6D5R6PQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSna6D5R6PQ)
I'd be asking a mechanic about the wisdom of towing the bike at highway speeds while in neutral, but cetainly looks like a cheap way to tow the bike.
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Good for obstructing the rear number plate.
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Good for obstructing the rear number plate.
They book the bike. :grin
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I think I would feel so much more relaxed if it were tied down by the crash bars on a small trailer :think1
:beer
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The "up and down" pivot would be the bike's front wheel.
Yes but then the tension on the straps to the handlebars will be continuously changing?
Posted before reading Biggles next post :grin
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The "up and down" pivot would be the bike's front wheel.
Yes but then the tension on the straps to the handlebars will be continuously changing?
Posted before reading Biggles next post :grin
I thought so too, until I noticed the tie down points are in line with the forks. So the variation in tie down tension would be minimal.
The front axle acts as the vertical pivot point, the steering head bearing as the horizontal pivot point, which is why the handle bars are the tie-down points and the rear suspension is still active to south out bumps.
You don't have a set of springs at the trailer coupling and on the rear wheels.
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The front axle acts as the vertical pivot point, the steering head bearing as the horizontal pivot point, which is why the handle bars are the tie-down points and the rear suspension is still active to south out bumps.
You don't have a set of springs at the trailer coupling and on the rear wheels.
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There appears to be ties from the handle bars to the pillion foot pegs preventing horizontal movement at the steering head. Horizontal movement would I think would be at the pivot on the towing frame just ahead of the front wheel. Think that would be a lot better for reversing.
Talking about reversing I think have the back wheel on the towing frame would be better but reversing and lifting the frame after tying down the bike would be interesting but I am sure possible with a lot intuition..
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The front axle acts as the vertical pivot point, the steering head bearing as the horizontal pivot point, which is why the handle bars are the tie-down points and the rear suspension is still active to south out bumps.
You don't have a set of springs at the trailer coupling and on the rear wheels.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
There appears to be ties from the handle bars to the pillion foot pegs preventing horizontal movement at the steering head. Horizontal movement would I think would be at the pivot on the towing frame just ahead of the front wheel. Think that would be a lot better for reversing.
Talking about reversing I think have the back wheel on the towing frame would be better but reversing and lifting the frame after tying down the bike would be interesting but I am sure possible with a lot intuition..
The photos on the website don't show the rear ties. I suspect the first photo is incorrectly tied.
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This has some better instructions.
https://youtu.be/w1bPVoYAaYw
I would like to know what the dept transport would have to say.
As far as towing in neutral it would be no different to this grey nomads towing their cars behind the bus.
Definitely wouldn't want to use a high quality tyre for a trip to Darwin from Melbourne but if it works that's great.
The link shows how the unit pivots for corners.
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The video does make a comment about towing to a rally "provided its not TOO FAR away".
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Maximum recommend towing speed of 45 MPH = 72.4 km/h. You wouldn't want to do that for too long.
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Given my experience of trailering Teela's bike and an ST1300 over thousands of kilometres I wouldn't put my valuable bike on something so flimsy >:()
The rough roads around Oz will soon bring that little trailer undone :fp
You need a minimum of an 8x5 trailer to easily take the size of an ST. I have worked out an effective tie down system by using the tip over rails and tying them down to the front outside corners of the trailer. Then one tie down strap looped over the rear wheel with out panniers on, to hold the rear of the bike securely in the centre of the trailer.
There is no need for handlebar straps as pushing your weight down onto the handlebars as you tighten the tie downs holds the ST inplace nicely. I also have added a neat stone guard onto my trailer to stop any wayward stones. I have also had a wide & longer ramp made to make loading easy.
My gal trailer was sourced for $800 and a few mods, & led lights brought the cost up $1000. A cheap investment for that added peace of mind knowing your bike will arrive safe and sound if you ever need to trailer it. ;-*
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Good for obstructing the rear number plate.
They book the bike. :grin
For following too close. :law
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I think my thoughts have already been covered, but anyway... being a tight ar$e, and given what rear tyres cost, I don’t know if I’d like a lot of my rubber being ‘wasted’ by towing, just my personal preference.
I’m sure practise would make perfect, but looking at that clip of the guying strapping his Triumpth on, I’d imagine an ST could prove to be a 2-person job!
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I have been looking generally for a trailer or towing hitch for Ruby.
I agree with Sicman. This one looks a bit flimsy for a heavy bike and I wouldn’t feel comfortablewith it. I have a 7X5 trailer which might get a modification or two. A new floor and a full width, possible folding ramp, and front wheel chock It has 2’ sides so just needs a shield at the front to protect from flying stones. The fronttailgatmighthavetodroppartwayas the STis slighlylongerthan 7’. I think
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Thanks for all the feedback. Think I have reluctantly decided to drive to Mackay with the family and leave Lucy at home she will get over it. Might look into hiring a bike for the Rally weekend.