OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Assassin on August 28, 2014, 08:09:54 AM
-
Recently Ive been noticing a bit of oil and dirt around the bottom of the motor on the ST1300. After investigating, found that the water pump has been leaking a small amount of oil through the tiny tell-tale drain hole situated just under the water pump...
In the photo below, you can see the tiny waste hole on the water pump, as well as the dusty oil around the motor... this oil hole is situated between the oil seal (engine side) and the mechanical seal (water pump side), so if either leaks, it will drain through this hole...
My ST1300 has done just 40,000kms, so not much work, but this is a fairly common fault, and if you see the bottom of your motor getting dirty, then this could also be your problem... very easy to get to once the fairings have been stripped off...
-
Easiest way to load pics is via photobucket. The pic may have been bigger than the site permits.
-
this link here will give you a guide on how to use photobucket: http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=4583.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=4583.0)
-
In this photo, you can see the fairings have been removed, as well as the oil drained (through the level glass), but coolant still in the radiator which is my next move... drain the coolant and remove the radiator....
To remove the radiator, just three bolts (8mm head), one at the top, and two at the bottom front... remove the radiator pipes, as well as the two plugs connecting the fans...
-
Once you have removed the radiator and drained the oil, you can then remove the water pump housing... no tricks, very simple, use an 8mm socket.... but also remove the two smaller water pipes connected - see pics...
-
Once the water pump housing has been removed, undo the rest of the bolts to remove the Clutch cover housing.... Honda in their wisdom, have left two tabs (first two images) allowing the mechanic to pry the cover off without damaging the gadget surface. - see pics...
Also in the last image you will see a wire at the front that also needs to be unplugged.... this is the crank position sensor...
Once the cover has been removed, you can start removing the old gasket and cleaning the surface.... be warned, this could take you a very long time... it took me around three solid hours just to remove the old gasket. I used a blade, then a very fine small oil stone in order to clean the gasket surface... unfortunately, this is all charged time... which Honda will have avery hard time explaining to you that they spent three hours cleaning the old gasket off... but that is what it takes...
Genuine Honda Parts required:
1. Large Clutch cover gasket
2. Water pump housing O-ring
3. 2 x small O-rings for the top of the clutch cover, part of the coolant system
4. Water pump oil seal
5. Water pump mechanicl seal
6. Water pump bearing (you may get away without replacing this bearing, but for $23, hardly worth it... just replace the bearing...
Sass
-
Great write up Assasin :like
Would you do anything different if you were to do it again ?
-
Thanks Abe, I'll post the rest of the photos as I do the work...
No, I wouldn't do anything different at all, it's not a very technical job, so anyone could do it... The worst thing about this job is just cleaning the old gasket off....
Cheers, Sass
-
Good description and great photos. Thanks for the posts about fixing a relatively common issue.
-
After doing the same found all good , several warm ups and cool downs no problems
Then a water leak from pump cover, just removed cover now to find a 6mm piece of O ring has seperated itself from where it was suppose to be.
Now its a C ring
So off to get another O ring and try again.
Installing an o-ring like the water pump housing one, can be tricky.... you could use grease, but remember you need to use a good rubber grease, like the one that INOX make, you might find at your local pool shop.
The grease helps to keep the o-ring in place when your install the cover....
In fact I use a sealant made by Locktite (515 Master Gasket) to be exact... this is an anaerobic (sets off with the absence of oxygen) sealant that I wipe a tiny amount on the o-ring (not on the cover) then insert the o-ring into the groove before replacing the cover... this sealant also helps to seal the o-ring completely to prevent any leaks... just remember to clean thoroughly the cover and the groove, and the mating surface....
Loctite 515 isn't cheap by the way, but it is the best you can get. Permaseal make a similar anaerobic sealant, but not as good....
Regards, Sass
-
Awesome write up Assassin, thanks for sharing mate :thumbsup
-
Anytime Shiney, not finished yet though... :)
-
Managed to replace the mechanics seal, the oil seal and the bearing this morning... this is a job for the expert with a hydraulic press...
Cleaned all the gasket surfaces ready to replace the cover... Obviously it is extremely important to make sure both gasket surfaces are spotlessly clean from any oil or dirt... for this I use acetone....
-
When over you see two crank cases meet like i n the first photo, use Three Bond 1207B to smear a tiny amount across the join, normally about 10mm each side of the join... Three Bond is expensive, but it lasts for ages, and it is war the factory recommend...
-
Before replacing the cover, replace the two o-rings for the coolant, using a tiny amount Loctite 515 Master Gasket...When installing the cover, you will find that all of the bolts are the same length, except for two shorter ones.... Generally you will find the each and every bolt on a Japanese motor cycle engine stick out the same amount, so you can't really get mixed up...
-
Clean both surfaces of the water pump housing, and replace it with the new o-ring...
-
Very good write up
-
Very good write up
Many thanks Brock... job still incomplete... will start doing and documenting valve clearances tomorrow... removing cams if necessary to replace shims etc. also balancing the throttle bodies...
-
When over you see two crank cases meet like i n the first photo, use Three Bond 1207B to smear a tiny amount across the join, normally about 10mm each side of the join... Three Bond is expensive, but it lasts for ages, and it is what the factory recommend...
-
After doing the same found all good , several warm ups and cool downs no problems
Then a water leak from pump cover, just removed cover now to find a 6mm piece of O ring has seperated itself from where it was suppose to be.
Now its a C ring
So off to get another O ring and try again.
Ended up using a little silly cone and giving it a few moments before putting back together
All well :like fairing 3/4 back on fitting air horn
And got to get some of those plastick rivet popper things for fairing, seem to recall someone got some somewhere afordable ?
-
Ended up using a little silly cone and giving it a few moments before putting back together...
Yeah, personally I would never have a cone when putting a motor together, a cup of coffee or at most a couple of beers.... :)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Managed to replace the mechanics seal, the oil seal and the bearing this morning... this is a job for the expert with a hydraulic press...
Cleaned all the gasket surfaces ready to replace the cover... Obviously it is extremely important to make sure both gasket surfaces are spotlessly clean from any oil or dirt... for this I use acetone....
Hi, I realise this is an old thread but it seems like the right place to post this, given the first comment. I was having problems with the mechanical seal on my 2003 ST so I decided to bite the bullet and replace it, including the oil seal and bearing. Realising my limitations I sourced the Honda parts and asked a bike mechanic to do the job for me. Once re-assembled as soon as I filled up the radiator I had a complete drain of coolant through the weep hole. Not a drip - a constant stream. So clearly something has gone wrong with the install and I do recall him asking me how far to seat the bearing or seal for which I had no answer. So I am interested in what anyone thinks has gone wrong and how to fix it? Any technical advice on seating the seal or bearing?
-
The seal hasnt been seated properly, have a look at the video linked.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk16Tpi-R28 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk16Tpi-R28)
-
Thanks Brock. Just the information I was looking for.
I assume the process is the same for the ST1300 (video shows ST1100)?
-
should be pretty much the same.