Author Topic: Cheap alarm system for STs.... (Read 17976 times)

Whizz · « **Reply #50 on:** February 17, 2013, 10:33:17 AM »

In the box when the kit arrived there was a small 9v PP9 battery, and on the wiring harness where it leaves the box, before the 9 pin connector there is a small black plastic battery socket to connect the battery to the unit. This is the battery I am talking about.

However from what you're saying, I am now assuming that the screamer works either from the unswitched bike +12v, or from the PP9. HHMMM, I must go and experiment...will be back!

Rob Mc · « **Reply #51 on:** February 17, 2013, 10:45:36 AM »

Thanks , I either missed the 9v battery and tossed it out with the packaging or they did not include it unless mine was a different model . As I said I just left the green wire hang loose for the remote , did not use the orange as they said that was optional and connected the red directly to the positive on the bike battery and the black onto the frame.
Had it installed now for a couple of weeks and works like a charm, I know this because my bike has not been nicked in all that time.

Whizz · « **Reply #52 on:** February 17, 2013, 11:06:17 AM »

Gentlemen (and ladies), the fog is lifting. There appear to be two different models of basically the same alarm system. One of which has a battery backup (the PP9) and one of which does not. I, by chance, got the one with the battery back-up, which is advertised as having "Wire-cut Technology". My understanding of this is that the PP9 is there as continued protection if some smart-arse disconnects the bike battery, then tries to steal your pride and joy, because in these circumstances the alarm will STILL sound running from the little back-up battery.

So I've just had a play and mine will work quite adequately from the PP9 with the red wire connected to the switched +12v from the bike (i.e. with no voltage on it when the bike is switched off). If I connect the red wire to the un-switched +12v and disconnect the PP9 it works just as well, but is CONSIDERABLY louder! So much so that it actually physically hurts your ears when you are sitting next the bike making connections!

If I reconnect the PP9 it still works LOUD!!

So we are now clear?

1) Connect the Black wire to ground
2) Connect the Red wire to the bike battery (or a convenient connection point for unswitched +12v). The screamer will sound a couple of times...don't get scared it's supposed to do that.
3) If you have a PP9 in your kit then connect this to the battery connector coming from the little black box, if you don't have either a PP9 or a little black battery connector, then ignore this comment.
4) Studiously ignore ALL the other wires, just make sure that none of them can touch the metalwork of the bike.
5) Set up the sensitivity of the kit and Bobs your uncle!

Rob Mc · « **Reply #53 on:** February 17, 2013, 11:15:15 AM »

Whizz, thanks I thought I was going crazy as I was sure there was no 9 volt battery in the kit I received. In terms of the noise I actually had to wear ear protection when I was setting it up , I have also noticed that it can be set off by a loud noise vibration close to the bike so may have to adjust the sensitivity level a little more.

Brock · « **Reply #54 on:** February 17, 2013, 11:42:15 AM »

Quote

can be set off by a loud noise vibration close to the bike

Not the device for me then. My bike is parked at work close to a taxiway, with the occasional F18 or Hawk doing low flybys. It would always be going off, so I would need a switch to turn it off when parked

Actually, I have a lowtech solution already fitted. With the turn of a concealed switch, my bike can be left running (in nuetral), any one tries to ride off, the bike stops and wont restart. If activated when the bike is off, the bike just wont start. Its the same thing fitted to Police 1100s ( I worked out how they did it) dont know if the 1300s had the same thing.

Biggles · « **Reply #55 on:** February 17, 2013, 12:18:26 PM »

I'm mainly interested in it as an anti-tamper device rather than an immobiliser.

Interesting that you found the immobiliser circuit, Brock. I deduce that's so no-one rides off on Plod's bike while he's busy with a "customer".

Brock · « **Reply #56 on:** February 17, 2013, 03:19:55 PM »

Thats right Biggles, the bike can be left running with the lights going but cant be ridden off.. Its a very simple mod that will work for any 1100

bobSTer · « **Reply #57 on:** February 17, 2013, 05:26:31 PM »

Brock,
Please Sir .............tell us more !!!
Better still ............ please Sir ---- show us how !!!

Bob

Whizz · « **Reply #58 on:** February 17, 2013, 05:41:32 PM »

Biggles, it's a cheap, easy to fit, VERY LOUD anti-tamper device!!!

Poppy Dave · « **Reply #59 on:** February 20, 2013, 11:03:19 PM »

Quote from: Brock on February 17, 2013, 11:42:15 AM

Quote
can be set off by a loud noise vibration close to the bike

Not the device for me then. My bike is parked at work close to a taxiway, with the occasional F18 or Hawk doing low flybys. It would always be going off, so I would need a switch to turn it off when parked

Actually, I have a lowtech solution already fitted. With the turn of a concealed switch, my bike can be left running (in nuetral), any one tries to ride off, the bike stops and wont restart. If activated when the bike is off, the bike just wont start. Its the same thing fitted to Police 1100s ( I worked out how they did it) dont know if the 1300s had the same thing.

Yeah Brock, all the Police bikes have that.

It's so you can leave the engine running, to keep the Emergency Lights flashing for lengthy periods (Crashes, Traffic Control etc). We simply stepped off the bike, turned at removed the 'Cut-off' key and were able to leave the ignition key in place with the bike still running and no-one could steal it (We've had a few drunken idiots try it, they're quite easy to apprehend as they're usually trapped under the bike when it falls over).

Poppy

Poppy Dave · « **Reply #60 on:** March 08, 2013, 01:39:38 PM »

Just got my Alarm.....................................................

Well, what can I say ??????????????????

I have never, in my life, read such a load of TRIPE !

What I can say is; THANK YOU WHIZZ (and the rest who posted) FOR THE ENGLISH VERSION OF THE INSTRUCTIONS.

Haven't done anything with it at the moment, just opened the package, read the instruction?, and put everything back in the box.

Will attempt it when I don't feel a suicidal tendency may overtake me, as I'm sure it will if I follow the instructions, and see what happens.

If it turns out the way I fear it may................... WHO WANTS MY BIKE?

Poppy

Whizz · « **Reply #61 on:** March 08, 2013, 03:09:12 PM »

Dave. First order of business throw the 'instructions' in the bin, they are more than useless!!

Actually nailing this thing into the bike is a real piece of doddle, and should take you no more than 20 minutes, and that's including finding some cotton wool to stuff in your ears before you start. It really is painless.

I'm thinking of experimenting with some of the other wires to see what sort of weird things I can get it to do, so if I find anything interesting I'll let everyone know!

Brock · « **Reply #62 on:** March 08, 2013, 03:13:13 PM »

Quote

If it turns out the way I fear it may................... WHO WANTS MY BIKE?

Just to help out a mate, I will take it Dave.

Tackleberry · « **Reply #63 on:** March 08, 2013, 06:36:00 PM »

So where is the wiring diagram for the Police cut out switch whilst I still have my bike apart please Brock?

Brock · « **Reply #64 on:** March 08, 2013, 06:40:14 PM »

Is your bike an 1100 or 1300 Tack??

1100 I know, the 1300 I'm not sure.

Tackleberry · « **Reply #65 on:** March 08, 2013, 07:28:49 PM »

1100 mate - I'm not a rich man.

Brock · « **Reply #66 on:** March 08, 2013, 07:39:38 PM »

In that case, dead easy. All that is needed is to cut the green white wire from the side stand switch, and put bullet connectors in run two wires with mating connectors to a switch of choice. My switch is a barrel switch hidden inside what looks to be a power connector socket.

Want to leave the bike running, but secure no problem, just put key in switch and turn. Bike will run, but as soon as put in gear bike stops and wont restart till key inserted and switch turned again. Want to secure bike when not running, again just operate switch. Bike wont start.

How does it work?? Simple, the switch just removes the sidestand up signal.

I will insert a pic of the concealed switch later

Poppy Dave · « **Reply #67 on:** March 08, 2013, 11:09:12 PM »

Quote from: Brock on March 08, 2013, 03:13:13 PM

Quote
If it turns out the way I fear it may................... WHO WANTS MY BIKE?

Just to help out a mate, I will take it Dave.

You're a true friend Brock.............................. God bless you

Biggles · « **Reply #68 on:** March 09, 2013, 09:31:04 PM »

That would work for the ST13, then, since it has the same sidestand cut-out. Just a matter of finding the different coloured wires, I presume.

Brock · « **Reply #69 on:** March 09, 2013, 10:13:49 PM »

After perusing my wiring diagrams Biggles, I think it would work exactly the same way for the 1300. by breaking the green white wire on the bike side of the sidestand line, stops an earth being applied to the ECU. It cant hurt anything to try.

Biggles · « **Reply #70 on:** March 09, 2013, 11:08:47 PM »

Quote from: Brock on March 09, 2013, 10:13:49 PM

After perusing my wiring diagrams Biggles, I think it would work exactly the same way for the 1300. by breaking the green white wire on the bike side of the sidestand line, stops an earth being applied to the ECU. It cant hurt anything to try.

Except maybe a delicate ECU. I might let Whizz try it first.

It'll be OK. Whizz, really! It's only an alternative earth interrupt.

Brock · « **Reply #71 on:** March 10, 2013, 12:47:56 AM »

its not a power earth, but a low sense for the sidestand up. another switch in the line wont hurt a thing or an ECU..

You can trust me, I aint a engineer

Whizz · « **Reply #72 on:** March 10, 2013, 07:55:39 AM »

Putting a second switch in series (or even in parallel) with an existing switch can't possibly do any harm, the most it can do is cause some confusion!

and I am an Engineer!

and Brock you can be so hurtful at times

hobs · « **Reply #73 on:** March 10, 2013, 07:58:56 PM »

Hi Brock, Still don't understand how it works. Need to see a wiring diagram to fully understand the concept, And I am an Engineer.

Gavo · « **Reply #74 on:** March 10, 2013, 08:02:04 PM »

I'm an Engineer

too

News:

Author Topic: Cheap alarm system for STs.... (Read 17976 times)