OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Biggles on February 21, 2013, 05:37:21 PM
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Inspired by Diesel's exhortation to get the odd jobs done early rather than the day before departure, I decided to install the Iridium plugs I got from saaz at mate's rates.
This job doesn't warrant a series of photos, since it's fairly straight-forward.
However, you'll need to beg, borrow or buy yourself these:
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/Pixtor/Plugtools_zps1bd9b5e6.jpg)
Remove the little side access cover (phillips head screwdriver and finger nails).
Then remove the silver plastic head cover. If you haven't done this to top up the oil, you're in for a treat.
First, poke your fingers into the little gap at the back and lift as far as you can. This lifts a rubber grommet off a metal pin. Then move the cover forward, lifting gently as you go. From here on, you're on your own getting the right one off. The left one seems to be easier off and on. Once you get it off, you'll be able to see how it's held in place and replace it appropriately.
Now use those strong fingers to pull the front plug cap up. Again, if you haven't done this before and are used to cars, you're in for a surprise. Mother Honda seems to have buried the plugs in the bottom of the engine.
That's why you need that long bar. I have the angled one which is dual purpose- it's an extension (with a shifting spanner to turn it) and it's a breaker bar (for reluctant bolts/ nuts).
Snap your 5/8" plug socket onto the extension bar. Before you go poking it in the chasm, put a spot of BluTack on the end. Dedicated plug sockets have a nice rubber sleeve in them that grips the plug to retrieve it. Mine does, but it didn't hold tightly enough, hence the adhesive gum.
It takes 9 turns to remove the plug. Pull it up gently and it should be in the socket. I mark mine with a felt tip pen just to keep track of the characteristics of the cylinders. My front right burns richer than the front left, for example.
A tiny spot of BluTack inside the socket to hold the plug and you ease it into the hole. After 9 turns, it will seat. Tighten it a maximum of 1/4 turn. At this point you are flattening the new seating washer, so don't overdo it. Someone will put a torque wrench value in here if they think it's important.
You can't put the wrong lead on the plug- they're just the right length.
Run the motor to check you haven't broken it.
If you check the oil visiglass straight away you might think you need to add oil. Give it ten minutes to run back into the sump for a truer reading. Of course, this is done on the centre stand, just in case someone is reading this who is even less of a mechanic than I am, if that's possible. :o
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Does the ST13 come with a spark plug tool? I know I have done the ST11 plugs a few times, and the Honda tool is far and away the easier way to do it. Those rear plugs are :cuss
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Don't forget to blow and crap away from around the plugs before you remove them. Don't want any little stones or dead beetles falling into the cylinders.
:bl11
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Don't forget to blow and crap away from around the plugs before you remove them. Don't want any little stones or dead beetles falling into the cylinders.
:bl11
It's very clean down in the ST13's plug holes. The cap makes a very good seal.
You would need compressed air to blow down there- we're talking at least 6 inches here. I looked down each time and it was spotless.
Maybe saaz needs to write up the ST11 procedure, especially if foreign objects around the plugs is an issue.
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ST1100 also has a great seal around the plug holes. The main issue with the ST1100 is the 2 rear cylinders. A real pain to access even with a flexible attachment to a plug socket. The honda tool is hinged just right and works a treat. I will take a photo and post up.
Don't forget to blow and crap away from around the plugs before you remove them. Don't want any little stones or dead beetles falling into the cylinders.
:bl11
It's very clean down in the ST13's plug holes. The cap makes a very good seal.
You would need compressed air to blow down there- we're talking at least 6 inches here. I looked down each time and it was spotless.
Maybe saaz needs to write up the ST11 procedure, especially if foreign objects around the plugs is an issue.
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John, is that with the maintenance panel on or off?
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Maintenance panel has to come off. With other sockets, flexible joints etc I found it was also easier to undo the bolt holding on the upper fairing to the frame as you could then bend it out a bit to get access. I have the accessory wind deflectors so they have to come off with the maintenance panel each time as well.
John, is that with the maintenance panel on or off?