Honda ST1100 Section > Suspension ST1100

Fork Rebuild - Police 2000 non ABS - Sonic Springs.

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Piet:
Leaking seals - meant it was a good time to rebuild the forks with new bush, seals, dust covers and fresh oil.
After stripping them down, and cleaning the bits & pieces I thought I would take a few photo's to show the differences in the internals.
The first thing to notice is that the fork stanchion are different lengths for Left & Right sides.  This first photo has the bottom of the forks level (the wide angle lens might make it look as if they are not level but they are)  Notice that the LH fork is shorter.  Left is 614mm and the RH is 633mm.



The bases are the same for the comparison.



The top difference highlighted.



The base of each fork tube is also different.  In this next shot.  Left is Left fork, Right is Right.  The RH fork has a trapped washer fairly close to the base.  The Left has 4 tabs much deeper within the stanchion.





Comparison of the lower halves of the forks.  The front one is the RH fork casing.





Taking a look inside shows internal differences.  Left is LH fork.



I tried to get a clearer look inside.
RH Fork



LH Fork



Now looking at the internals starting from the bottom and working up.  The left hand fork internal are towards the front.
The bolts are what goes up from the bottom down at the front axel.



The next shot shows the sonic springs.  You might note I have a flat washer between the spring and the internals of the RH fork.  This is simply to make sure the spring sits square on the internal.



The top end of the internals.  I use flat washers where the springs meet the spacers.  Again where the spacer meets the top cap.  The LH fork (front of image) simply compresses to screw the top cap in to the fork stanchion.  The RH has a slider washer or bush.  You have to compress the spring sufficiently to slide the washer under the nut at the top of the damper unit.  With the sonic springs and the preload I have set, its fairly tough and needs two people.  One to compress the spring and another to slide the washer and slide bush/washer in place.  I actually swapped the spacer and the spring around.  I slid the spacer down the damper shaft first and then placed the spring on top of the spacer on the RH fork assay because I could not compress it otherwise.



If any one is interested,  My RH spacer length is 104mm and the LH spacer length is 185mm.  This gives the same level of preload on the fork springs.

From this point on its simply reassemble with new bush, new seals and new dust covers.  I assembled them and just left the top caps off.  I added the oil from the top.  I used the information from Yorkies post where he kindly tells us the oil capacity in the LH fork is 385cc and 435cc for the RH fork.  http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=4244.0

PLEASE NOTE:  When filling the RH fork assembled like this ... do it slowly.  It can easily come up and overflow the stanchion because it is slow in dribbling down into the fork.

Totgas:
Excellent write up and pictures. Thanks Heaps

Abe:
Great write up and pictures for sure  ++

Shiney:
Awesome work mate, thanks for sharing it with us :thumbs

Garry_Coates:
Hi Piet,
         thanks for the clarity of description and pictures. Would you mind checking the fork tube thread and confirming the pitch (1.0,1.25, 1.5 mm etc)? While I have 41 mm tubes I think it should be the same pitch. I am try to track down fork caps that will fit.

Regards
          Garry

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