OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Where to Purchase Parts & items for the Honda ST1100 => Topic started by: rocketeer on March 08, 2012, 02:25:12 PM
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Hi all
Thank you for allowing me to post in here. As I get time I will add more information about the products and services offered by PM Lubricants.
Simply- All of PM Lubricant's products are built to the highest quality standard. The key- is building the highest load carrying ability, or film strength, which reduces friction and has flow on effects, such as increased power, better economy, reduced wear and reduced vibrations.
PM Lubricants oils range from 10w40 to 25w60, most except Racing 50 is priced around $12 per litre, product codes as follows:
PM412LA- SAE 10w40- a full Group IV synthetic currently being run very successfully in F3 to race bikes. Designed for 2 reasons- firstly to fill the need of manufacturers specifying low viscosity synthetics, secondly as a Low Ash oil capable of being run in Commonrail Diesels with particulate filters.
PM412 SAE15w40. The bread and butter oil for years- proven in almost all forms of racing and some of the toughest prime movers in Australia, again currently being used in motorcycle racing. This is what I run in almost all of my machines with noticeable power improvements, reduced vibrations and wear rates halved in oil analysis. 40,000km changes in good, clean petrol passenger vehicles, 60,000km or more in diesels, well over 100,000km in transport. I expect upwards of 24,000km changes in ST's.
PM403 SAE 20w50. Well proven and standard issue for air cooled, ageing vehicles from mid to late 90's and older, or those showing a little wear.
PM408 SAE 25w60. Commercial variant of Racing 50. For older worn engines, cure notchy gearchanges, large bore, tough oil which has surprised many with it's ability to increase power even with heavier viscosity.
PM404 Racing 50. SAE 25w60. The toughest oil available. I will gladly and openly pit it against ANY oil available. Racing 50 is becoming more and more famous amongst the guys who drive/ ride hard enough to justify using this oil. Season after season with no measurable wear. Unsurpassed film strength- power increases even for such a heavy oil.
This is not a complete list, but rather the oils that will be most used on here.
All oils come with PM Lubricant's free testing service- we don't want extended oil drains without the chance to test and make sure your engine is as it should be. By all means, we have no issue with you changing at your current intervals, but once you use our products you may change your mind.
Contact myself, or our distributors on http://pmlubricants.com.au/ (http://pmlubricants.com.au/)
Brad
0406 766 106
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For letting me post in here, each order for the month of March will receive some form of bonus- such as free transport, bonus pack of PM800 fuel system conditioner, depending on order amount and where you are. If you order through me it will be easier to keep track of, otherwise let me know which distributer is close to you and I will figure something out.
For the guys a little way from a distributor I will look after you on transport costs.
Brad
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nice!! :hatwave
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Thanks Rockeer, I think we need to do a WA Group buy on this
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I'm more than happy to do one, more product makes it easier to do things like free delivery.
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Scarp
Count me in on a group buy for WA. :thumbsup
:blk13
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Ok we will have to get this going
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Thread opened for WA group buy.
PM800 fuel system conditioner. Used at a ratio of 1ml per 1 litre of petrol or diesel, this is where most fuel economy gains come from. Average 15% some so much more- ford and Holden 6 cyl tends to be instant minimum 80 km extra per tank. Cleanse the entire fuel system from the tank through injectors or cabs, valves, piston crowns, out throug h the exhaust. Removes fuel to kill diesel bug. Prevents fuel line freezing. Lubricates all moving parts including valve stems pumps and injectors combustion. Use in any internal combustion engine 2 to 4 stroke. Old lawn equipment equipment and small engines get a new lease on life, I have a 22 year old first pull start mower which was given to me because it wouldn't start. Generators easier to start, and go notably longer between refills. $20 for 500ml which odd enough to treat 500 litres, $36 for 1 litre, $105 for 4 litres.
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Hi guys, been a while- I've been so busy! Just got back from a weekend pitting for several bikes at Morgan Park Raceway. All bikes went back in the trailers in one piece- the only casualties were a few generators. For some reason these guys are so pedantic about servicing their bikes- but can't remember what oil let alone if the generators were serviced, and don't check oil levels. Unfortunately none ran PM oil, ran dry and now there's a few guys looking for replacement engines before the next meet.
PM102. SAE80w90 GL5, exceeds GL6. Extreme pressure, high load, high heat tolerant. Designed for fast moving gear systems requiring an extreme pressure lubricant in differentials and final drives. I have personally seen differentials drop 30°c running temperature. Trucks with problem diffs and double bogies find massive improvement, particularly when fitted with aerodynamic skirts. ST Final drives- noteably reduce running temperature, reduce vibrations, and of course reduce wear. We also specify this oil for Harley gearboxes with great success.
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G'day Brad good to see you again - glad all is well.
$20 for 500ml which odd enough to treat 500 litres, $36 for 1 litre, $105 for 4 litres.
Just did some quick maths for OzSTOC Members (all numbers are general - YMMV)...... If you normally fill up the ST with Premium '98 Octane' instead of 'regular 95 ULP' - then you could generally save $2 per tank by going back to 95 Octane ULP.
If we assume 500 litres of fuel is 20 tank fulls - then this equates to roughly $40 you are ahead - so even if you bought the above great 500ml fuel treatment for $20 (which treats 500 litres) - you may still be $20 ahead, but you also enjoy all the other benefits Brad mentioned....
... fuel economy gains .... Average 15% some so much more- ... Cleanse the entire fuel system from the tank through injectors or cabs, valves, piston crowns, out throug h the exhaust. Removes fuel to kill diesel bug. Prevents fuel line freezing. Lubricates all moving parts including valve stems pumps and injectors combustion. Use in any internal combustion engine 2 to 4 stroke.
Either way - the fuel treatment works out to be $1 per tank or there abouts.
Did I get that right Brad?
Cheers, Diesel
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Good work diesel, yes a 500ml bottle at $20 each- about 4 cents to treat a litre of petrol, or about 80 cents for 20 litres. Keep your bottle when it's empty because refilling from a 4 litre container pushes the cost down to about 2.5 cents to treat a litre of fuel. You're right, buying the right octane for your bike, saving by not buying the most expensive fuel you are well ahead. Don't forget- run the stuff in everything- lawn mower, generators, cars- dose up jerry cans that sit around for months to stop fuel going off.
I've still got a couple of prepaid express packs here that I am happy to throw bottles in to keep the cost down, if I can't catch up with you in person.
cheers
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If you normally fill up the ST with Premium '98 Octane' instead of 'regular 95 ULP' - then you could generally save $2 per tank by going back to 95 Octane ULP.
In case you weren't aware, ULP is 91 (what you called regular) and Premium is 95 (PULP) and 98 is V-power (Shell), Ultimate (BP) which are the only two I can think of.
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Thread opened for WA group buy.
PM800 fuel system conditioner. Used at a ratio of 1ml per 1 litre of petrol or diesel, this is where most fuel economy gains come from. Average 15% some so much more- ford and Holden 6 cyl tends to be instant minimum 80 km extra per tank. Cleanse the entire fuel system from the tank through injectors or cabs, valves, piston crowns, out throug h the exhaust. Removes fuel to kill diesel bug. Prevents fuel line freezing. Lubricates all moving parts including valve stems pumps and injectors combustion. Use in any internal combustion engine 2 to 4 stroke. Old lawn equipment equipment and small engines get a new lease on life, I have a 22 year old first pull start mower which was given to me because it wouldn't start. Generators easier to start, and go notably longer between refills. $20 for 500ml which odd enough to treat 500 litres, $36 for 1 litre, $105 for 4 litres.
Is anyone trying this out? I'd be interested to see if there are actual gains in fuel economy. I guess for $20 it's not exactly a massive gamble though...
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Kev, I don't think there is an active distributor in Tas at present- but I am looking, our previous guy has since retired. If you know of someone who could stock it, please let me know.
In the meantime if you're chasing some, make it a litre at $36 and I'll do the free delivery, expect somewhere around 5 to 10 days.
Des- I haven't yet known a vehicle not to gain economy, at worst less than a handful have taken more than 3 tanks- a blackbird was probably the one that took the longest, but had instant massive throttle response improvement. I would like to see what improvement members get from here as well
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In case you weren't aware, ULP is 91 (what you called regular) and Premium is 95 (PULP) and 98 is V-power (Shell), Ultimate (BP) which are the only two I can think of.
Thanks Alan - you are spot on - but thankfully, the theory still works.
Is anyone trying this out? I'd be interested to see if there are actual gains in fuel economy. I guess for $20 it's not exactly a massive gamble though...
I am Des. I am following my own above theory for cost and long term performance reasons - I will let you know my opinion after a few tanks of motion lotion.
If mileage gains are anywhere near 15% - that would mean over 600kms per tank at best! :eek
Don't let the Sportbike or Harley boys get wind of that!!! :p
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I'm looking forward to hearing. And yes, it's great for sportsbikes- going from 180km to 240km for around 16-18 litres makes all the difference on a ride...trust me.
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Kev, I don't think there is an active distributor in Tas at present- but I am looking, our previous guy has since retired. If you know of someone who could stock it, please let me know.
In the meantime if you're chasing some, make it a litre at $36 and I'll do the free delivery, expect somewhere around 5 to 10 days.
Des- I haven't yet known a vehicle not to gain economy, at worst less than a handful have taken more than 3 tanks- a blackbird was probably the one that took the longest, but had instant massive throttle response improvement. I would like to see what improvement members get from here as well
I would be interested in a litre bottle as well, unles I can get it in the ACT. Caltex techron seems to work quite allright, but sometimes when you get a not so good batch of fuel it would be good to clean it out properly. A mate's ST11 is having some probably carb related problems so it may fix him up before I have to strip the carbs.
And some limited slip diff oil (5.7 litre LS1 Holden. I have found in the past that a great diff oil can make all the difference.
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I'd be really interested in the results - I might even try some myself, seems that there is a retailer in Bundy.
Excuse my scepticism but there are some big claims being made here, which have all been made before. Not only will I be amazed if it works, I'll be a life-long customer! I find it hard to understand how the petrol giants have failed to achieve this, yet PM Lubricants have. They've single-handedly deferred the oil crisis by a generation!
If these claims of super-life oil and 15% extra mpg are true, what we really need PM Lubricants to get working on is a super-life motorcycle tyre. I'd like minimum 25,000kms per set with hard use please, they must still stick like s**t to a blanket, cost under $350 per set locally, and come in ST1100 sizes.
Whaddaya reckon? :wink1
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I am Des. I am following my own above theory for cost and long term performance reasons - I will let you know my opinion after a few tanks of motion lotion.
If mileage gains are anywhere near 15% - that would mean over 600kms per tank at best! :eek
Don't let the Sportbike or Harley boys get wind of that!!! :p
OK Diesel, I'm watching your results with bated breath. It's been two hours. How's it going?
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OK Diesel, I'm watching your results with bated breath. It's been two hours. How's it going?
So far so good - haven't used a drop of fuel... :p
Will let you know when I get to RIDE the thing. :grin
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It works with diesel as well, so you should right to go regardless :thumbs
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I completely understand the skepticism, everyone's seen at least one company, usually oil or oil additive company come along and promise the world- after falling for a couple myself I was VERY skeptical about this one, until I satisfied myself that the claims are achievable and repeatable. I'm only interested in lifelong customers, the only way that is going to happen is if these products perform as promised.
Des & Kev Funny you should mention it- I have a dream of at least one brand of fuel permanently premixed with our PM800 formulation- will it happen and still be competitively priced? realistically probably not....
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Ok guys orders should have arrived by now, looking forward to any feedback, good or bad.
I've had some awesome feedback lately from people using PM800 outside of this forum. Diesel 4x4 drivers- after 2 tanks they say it's a different truck- starts easier, idles smoother, far improved power and economy improving every tank- some as much as 200km extra per tank. Yesterday I was told about a Navara which was about to have injectors and pump sent for servicing- 2 tanks later the owner can't believe the difference (Graeme- perfection custom performance, Coopers Plains).
Fords and holden petrols love it- 6 cylinders religiously extra 80km per tank, AU falcons for some reason just eat the stuff up- 20% seems to be a minimum with these- one car going from 450 km every tank regardless to 650km per tank. Jeep cherokees love it- the last one, the owner was going to sell it due to the fuel consumption, now is happy with his truck again and uses PM800 in every tank.
Diesel trucks- Isuzu 500 pantec , 1998? model naturally aspirated 5 speed, done 650,000km- went from burning 5 litres of oil in 10,000km now burned 2 litres in 20,000km, doubled services, went from 600km per tank to 750, 800km per tank with 40 litres left to go, no diesel smoke whatsoever apart from a puff at startup, quieter, smoother, gained 18km on it's top end- previous top speed 108km/h.
Large capacity bikes, particularly Blackbirds- throttle response instantly improved or by half the first tank, economy usually comes after 3 tanks (in a couple of cases it took quite a few tanks but the owners very happy with throttle response, so continued using every tank untill economy eventually improved- one blackbird was either 60 or 80 km extra per tank). VTR1000's I know gain 60km per tank, on the oil the owners all remark at the additional torque of their bikes.
Mowers- by 3 tanks push mowers will be easier to start, ride ons improve power and run smoother. Whipper snippers easier starting, smoother.
These are some of the stories I know of, more coming every week. If you are on facebook people willingly share their stories on the PM Lubricants facebook page, in their own words.
Please feel free to post up here what you honestly find. Good, bad or ugly, I haven't had a bad experience yet.
Brad
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If it improves the range of a VTR there are many owners that will thank you! I have a mower that I use aerostat on as it refuses to fire up. Will let you know what it does for that when my package arrives.
I am thinking of going to liquid injection lpg on my 5.7 LS1 Statesman. I assume that by using the fuel conditioner in the petrol would help clean out the motor while it runs on petrol for the first minute, or would a bit more petrol use per month be better? As the fuel conditioner is also a lead replacement additive (I think CAMS has it listed as approved?) I assume it would help the valves out a bit as well?
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Steve, who owns PM Lubricants rides a VTR. Funniest thing was when he bought the bike new, did 6,000km on it to run it in then changed onto his own oil- he actually called me to tell me about how much better it ran- I found that quite amusing actually. I know of 3 who have dramatically improved range when ridden sensibly, run without the additive for several tanks and it goes back to the original mileage.
Spot on with the stato- running PM800 in the fuel will act as a valve seat lubricant (as well as injectors and fuel pump- I am not sure if they disable the fuel pump while the LPG runs?)- we've had a lot of taxis set up a drip feed system for that very reason. I don't believe there is any great need to run it on petrol for any length if it's going to start on petrol everytime. Between PM800 and the LPG the motor will end up quite clean internally- LPG burns hot and very clean. Make sure you use a higher viscosity oil to handle the higher combustion temperatures though!
Mower- check plug, make sure gap is reasonable, run it on a double dose of PM800, by the end of the third tank it should start without Aerostart. Funny thing my old man used to say was engines get addicted to aerostart...
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I love the smell of aerostart....
I am about to ask around about wheter the fuel pump keeps on going when the LPG is on, so will let you know. With a previous statesman 5.0 litre on lpg the fuel pump kept on running while the lpg was on, so keeping a reasonable amount of petrol in the tank was important.
I always run either 5W-50 or 10W-60 full synthetic oil. I have a stash of it bought on runout from a local Kmart. I use it in the ST1100 as well.
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One question about PM800..does it act as a fuel stabiliser? I have used Lucas fuel stabiliser for keeping containers of unleaded (91 or 95) around for using in the mower and topping up the bike before trip if I can't get out to fill it up.
I have just started to use PM800 in the car and ST11 so will see what happens.
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It does act as a fuel stabilizer in both 2 and 4 stroke applications
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I love the smell of aerostart....
I am about to ask around about wheter the fuel pump keeps on going when the LPG is on, so will let you know. With a previous statesman 5.0 litre on lpg the fuel pump kept on running while the lpg was on, so keeping a reasonable amount of petrol in the tank was important.
I always run either 5W-50 or 10W-60 full synthetic oil. I have a stash of it bought on runout from a local Kmart. I use it in the ST1100 as well.
Not sure what year your Statesman is mines an 04 WK 5.7 with electronic Fuel & LPG injection when the LPG is on the fuel pump is off, the old 5.0 L V8 had a mechanical fuel pump that's why it was on all the time.
I too am going to use the PM800 in my Stato & S pac ute as well as the ST, lawnmower, brushcutter, edger (now that will see how it works,what a bastard to start) & looking forward to the results
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Same scarp- I'm itching for some feedback! Anything hard to start- double dose the fuel, by the end of the third tank it should be easier to start (be sure to check spark plug and the gap isn't too big). 2 strokers I tend to mix PM800 into the 2 stroke oil then mix into fuel so you still get an accurate ratio but get a good shot of PM800 to clean it up. Up to you how you do it but I tend to mix 2 stroke in the machine itself using a syringe, at the moment I only have the one machine, which isn't used very often- I think the one tank is now 9 months old, but just started it a week ago and it still fired fine.
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Scarp, I have a WL Statesman, 5.7 litre so much the same as you. What LPG system do you run? In my VQ statesman it had EFI, but the fuel pump ran all the time.
If my lawn mower starts easily I will be so impressed!
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I'll have a look tonight I think it is avanti or something like that but the electric fuel pump is off when the LPG is on in that the petrol system is pressurised, however as the petrol is not flowing the pump is effectivly "off" If that makes sense.
I'm pretty sure that the VQ was a mechanical pump so as long as the engine was running so was the pump even tho petrol was not flowing, it keeps circulating the same petrol inside itself. I had an 82 VH Commodore many years ago on LPG & ended up fitting an electric fuel pump as I had that same problem & when I went to use petrol the mechanical pump would be gummed up
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I had a 6 cyl VH as well years go, but not on the LPG. The XF falcon I had after was on gas, did 470,000kms in it.
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My trip down and back to the National Rally was one of around 2,300kms and I dutifully put in the req'd amount of PM800 each fuel up.
I also changed the engine oil before I left to the recommended PM Lubricants oil for my location and engine spec.
I can say that the engine running and gear changes are every bit as good, if not better than the Shell Turbo Diesel oil previously used, so I could say that the oil certainly lives up to Brad's claims.
As for the PM800 fuel additive, I cannot say for certainty that it added range, but I was riding 'enthusiastically'. I can say that the idle and revving through the range was crisp and no problems or lags/stutters or other. I DO feel it is cleaning my injectors and fuel system, and lubing the valve seats etc, so at $1 per tank with all the fore mentioned benefits, I am a fan and will be using it forthwith.
I will post up in the future when i get back to more 'normal' riding conditions over the same old roads and same conditions to make a fair comparison - either way the other benefits alone are enough for me to add it in to my tank!
Thanks Brad.
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One advantage I see for doing FarRides is that it may help prevent a dody batch of fuel (water etc) stranding you if it does clean out that sort of thing.
I have the PM800 in the car and bike at the moment. Bike has not been ridden, car is half way through the first tank Hard to judge on such a short time so in a few weeks I should have more reactions to post up.
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I am also trialling the PM800 in another ST1100 that has the front two cylinders running a bit rich, and has reduced tank range as a result.
Brad, on a non-bike related issue - the PM website does not have any information up on auto transmission fluid. All I can see is that you have full synthetic. Are your auto fluids ok to replace Dex III/VI - mine specifies Dex 111 but I was thinking of going the full flush/full synthtic route to get the most life out of the 4 speed auto (2004 version). I run a transmission cooler. Any other info on the life of the fluid, specifications etc? The others I am looking at are Tranzmax or Nulon synthetics.
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Yes, we actually do 2 auto trans fluids, one is Dex II compatable (and is extraordinarily powerful in older boxes or newer boxes on their last legs), the other is a synthetic multifill, which is compatible with Dex II and onward, 95LE and so on. There is only one gearbox I am aware of that it won't go into, which is the Falcon ZF 6 speed, as Ford have not yet released their fluid requirements for this.
The fluid is expensive, but built the same way as all oils and will reduce gearbox running temperature. If it was a Ford gearbox or if it is highly strung then I would say no question pump it through, changing all the fluid. However Holden boxes aren't too bad with heat (particularly since you have put a cooler on- good work by the way) so the choice is yours to either pump through and leave it for a couple of hundred thousand km, or drop the pan changing around half of the fluid in the box- not forgetting the filter of course, probably not servicing again for 40-60,000km depending on the condition of the oil in the box now.
Prices- 5 litres $90
20 litres $346
I'm sure I can do free delivery on the 20 litre, I will just need to check.
By the way your cooler- is that bypassing the factory cooling tank in the radiator, or running through that then to the cooler?
Brad
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Brad, it is a PWR (Queensland as well!) unit installed after the radiator transmission cooler, as per their instructions.
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Queenslanders know how it's done!
Fair enough, just be aware that both Fords and Holdens suffer from those tanks fracturing, I've personally had one pump all the trans fluid into the radiator on a VT- luckily no water in tranny, and it only just reached overheating before I noticed so no damage- my BA XR8 has a PWR in bypass. My preference is to bypass the stock tank altogether, but that is just my experience.
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I looked into that. There is a bigger risk of overcooling in Canberra and inland Australia given the freezing outside temperatures we can get. We can also get real hot too.
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No dramas good you've looked into it. To be honest being a Queenslander all my life I've never considered overcooling!
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Hi Brad,
I'm just curious as to why we need to use this PM800 (and others) when ULP 95 fuels and some ULP 91 fuels have all cleaning additives in the fuel.
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/VortexPremiumFuels.aspx (http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/VortexPremiumFuels.aspx)
"Caltex Vortex Premium Fuels have been specifically formulated with special detergents to clean your car's fuel system while you drive - breaking down and removing deposits that build up in critical areas of the fuel delivery system"
Caltex doesn't mention ULP 91 which I use when the other retailer is closed. This would be the same for Woolies fuel as well.
Shell goes one further with their ULP91
Under "Types of Shell Unleaded" Tab
"Shell Unleaded petrol contains our Fuel Economy Formula, designed to clean deposits within the engine."
http://www.shell.com.au/home/content/aus/products_services/on_the_road/fuels/shell_unleaded/overview/ (http://www.shell.com.au/home/content/aus/products_services/on_the_road/fuels/shell_unleaded/overview/)
I use Shell ULP91 whenever I have the discount voucher.
and BP claims the same as Shell.
http://www.bp.com/retail/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9038071&contentId=7069926 (http://www.bp.com/retail/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9038071&contentId=7069926)
•Contains a detergent additive that keeps your injectors and inlet valves clean, helping maintain performance
That being the claim from the big two plus Caltex, so, what does PM800 have that isn't all ready in the fuel.
I've had the 1100 six years (next month) and have no starting problems in that time. I ran the plugs for five years (changed Jan 2011) without a miss or any carbon build up. I did check them a couple times and re-gapped if needed.
Alan
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Hi Alan,
You're right- a good deal of fuels do have great cleaning additives in them already. When I help tear down racebikes or bikes ridden hard and run on BP Ultimate, they are consistently clean through the ports, valves and also piston crowns. It's great that your machine has run so well over the years, how you look after it obviously works well for you which is the main thing. So I certainly won't say you 'have to' run any additive.
Simply- some benefits are better cleaning (yes, even better than premium fuels), more complete combustion in the chamber, lubricating all moving parts- the most noticeable result is improving throttle response and notably increasing fuel economy. The stories I get told almost every week just blow me away, so much so that I'm confident enough to introduce this product and wait for the results to come.
Watch this space, if the product is as good as I say the people here will be talking about it soon enough
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Having just stumbled onto this thread I can say that I'm five years ahead of the rest when it comes to having experience with PM Lubricants. Some of you know that I'm in the earthmoving industry, so lubricants have always been an important factor in long term reliabilty.
I was told about PM Lubricants by a client of mine in Mareeba. It was around the time I brought my first K1200LT. He gave such glowing reports about his experiences that I decided I would give it a try. Well, all I can say is I was amazed at the difference it made to my bike. It noticed a difference right from initial start up after the oil change was done. I got around 50km more from each tank of fuel due to the reduction in friction alone, as I wasn't running any fuel conditioner. I did oil changes at 20,000k's as to do them any earlier was a waste of money as I would be tossing out perfectly good oil. I have PM in the gearbox and diff of my current K1200LT and will be putting Pm in the egine again at the next change. (Did the last one in a hurry and had to grab oil from my local Supercheap store).
Anyone who's not using it should be. You will be delighted with the results. You can also forget the idea of doing oil changes at 6000k's. It's totally unwarranted if your using PM Lubricants in my opinion.
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Which one of these are you using Baz?
http://www.pmlubricants.com.au/shop/category/engine-oil (http://www.pmlubricants.com.au/shop/category/engine-oil)
Cheers Dick :)
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Hi guys
I have some sad news, I am no longer working with PM Lubricants. But I must say it was purely a business and personal decision, nothing to do with the products. Infact I still back them as the best, and will continue to use them myself, my girlfriend's car, her bike, her old man's truck and boat, all the lawn gear (we're on 10 acres so there is a bit of gear).
I'm more than happy to chat to you guys about which products best suit your application, but for all orders please contact Steve himself, (07) 3711 5822 or info@pmlubricants.com.au
Steve is the owner and director of PM Lubricants and is extremely knowledgeable and approachable, and rides himself (though everytime he does he comes back broke and minus a few points).
Thanks for your support guys. I am leaving this happy that I have helped spread the word of some of the best products in Australia.
Brad
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sorry tohear Brad, hope all goes well for the future. Hope youn stay in touch, and make it to a few rides.
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Thanks mate, with not working weekends may actually get the chance to get my bike back up and running!
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Yeah Brad - hope you keep a foot in the door here at OzSTOC as you've shown yourself to be extremely knowledgable, trustworthy, VERY patient, and a great bloke too.
Thanks for all the wisdom and solutions you have provided OzSTOC members over your time here, and I hope you are staying close to the industry you show such expertise in.
We'd love to hear in the near future that you're out n about on two wheels enjoying yourself, so make sure you drop us a line from time to time.
All the best mate. :thumb
From ALL the OzSTOC Team.