Author Topic: air filter (Read 10075 times)

creeture3 · « **on:** October 07, 2016, 09:16:10 PM »

G'day thrillseekers, had an interesting conversation with a seller of aftermarket air filters. I was considering buying a "re-usable" filter until I contacted the seller.

The upshot was: " the ST1100 is sensitive to filters,and, the filter advertised might not be appropriate."

Now this was a well known re-usable/washable filter, and I can only concede to his honesty.

So, the bottom line is: be careful as to what you buy............

Keep the rubber side down................

Bikebear · « **Reply #1 on:** October 09, 2016, 11:27:58 AM »

Running a K&N in my '99 and it doesn't seem to be any different to the normal filter. I'd like to know why he believes a mildly tuned carburettered bike would be so sensitive to a change in air cleaner.

Biggles · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2016, 01:00:48 PM »

I ran a K&N in my second ST13. They claim an improvement in performance, but as one naysayer pointed out, to do so they would have to be letting more "stuff" into the engine (along with the extra air).
For my third ST13, I've decided that the extra expense and hassle with cleaning (plus the cost of the cleaning kit), I couldn't be bothered. I'll stick with paper filters.
Anyone want a half-used cleaning kit?

creeture3 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2016, 01:23:35 PM »

Quote

I've decided that the extra expense and hassle with cleaning (plus the cost of the cleaning kit), I couldn't be bothered

Me too, the main reason why I am sticking to the paper filter. By the time you buy the cleaning kit, the time involved,etc.,it's so much easier.......

alans1100 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 09, 2016, 10:28:37 PM »

Quote from: Bikebear on October 09, 2016, 11:27:58 AM

Running a K&N in my '99 and it doesn't seem to be any different to the normal filter. I'd like to know why he believes a mildly tuned carburettered bike would be so sensitive to a change in air cleaner.

More than likely it's don't buy their rubbish but buy mine instead.

Brock · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2016, 10:51:27 PM »

If the supplied foan prefilter is used, then the motor chokes. just cant get enough air through the aircleaner

Greencan · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2016, 09:39:20 PM »

Quote

I am sticking to the paper filter.

I have never seen one of those...I am still using the original Honda OEM filter that was fitted to the bike in 1997...still functioning as is was intended 19 years on. Still has a few more years it, so it'll continue to serve its purpose:-)

spanner · « **Reply #7 on:** October 11, 2016, 11:16:21 AM »

sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?

What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?

Greencan · « **Reply #8 on:** October 11, 2016, 11:35:15 AM »

After above...

Before below...

Too easy :-)

creeture3 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 11, 2016, 12:30:41 PM »

Quote

sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?

Depending on conditions and riding time. If really dusty, like Oodnadatta, probably every 6 months. In the city, probably every 18 months.

Quote

What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?

Poor running, high fuel consumption, poor starting, loss of acceleration, poor idling..................

Biggles · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2016, 01:02:40 PM »

Quote from: Greencan on October 11, 2016, 11:35:15 AM

After above...

Before below...

Too easy :-)

Is that just with compressed air, or do you wash it in something?

alans1100 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2016, 01:15:40 PM »

Quote from: spanner on October 11, 2016, 11:16:21 AM

sooooo ...... how often should you change the air filter?

What are the symptoms of a buggerd , or nearly buggerd air filter?

The service interval is replace every 18,000km but my first one got done at 120,000 and the current one went at 190,000 (2500km ago)and there was no significant lessening of performance that I noticed.

Greencan · « **Reply #12 on:** October 11, 2016, 03:52:50 PM »

Quote

Is that just with compressed air, or do you wash it in something?

No Bill...do NOT use compressed air, ever!

Just ensure your Wife is having a day out wither Girls, then...

...leave to hang out on a tree (clothes line), until 100% dry...if in Victoria, like now...it may take days...it is what it is ;-)

This particular (owner discarded), filter came outta bike that had a little lie down (I suspect), as it was quite oil clogged...once dried out the filter spacings returned to near normal...too easy

the can :-)

Biggles · « **Reply #13 on:** October 11, 2016, 05:16:04 PM »

That's gold, 'Can! Thanks!
I do like Dynamo myself- it does the final wash getting water-based paint out of brushes very effectively.
Even works on clothes in the washing machine.

Nigel · « **Reply #14 on:** October 11, 2016, 06:56:27 PM »

Legend Thanks, Richard,,,,

Biggles · « **Reply #15 on:** October 11, 2016, 09:11:28 PM »

Quote from: Greencan on October 11, 2016, 03:52:50 PM

Just ensure your Wife is having a day out wither Girls, then...

Yes, sadly they all wither with age, but then I'm not in a condition to criticise!

Greencan · « **Reply #16 on:** October 14, 2016, 08:12:38 AM »

True Bill...true

...who'd have thought that a fat thumb and iphone were capable of freudian slips ;-)

So there ya's have it...for those of yas that have spent $$$ on after market air filters and that have the discarded OEM still buried somewhere in the shed, go dig it up and go to town scrubbing it in the laundry sink, you'll be suprised how resiliant it is

But if no scrubing brush at hand and U spot a carton of washing powder (like cold power), about, then poor a sparing amount in about 2-3 inches of cold water and just slosh the filter back and forth in it for a few minutes, then rinse as shown in the pic above using hot(ish) water, rotating the filter, then hang out to dry for a few days. Job done.

The reason laundry detergents work will is because they're an alkline. You can test this for yourself, just get a small amount, wet a finger, then poke it into the powder. It'll become quite warm quite quickly. And for those out there old enough, you may remember the old Terco cleaning baths in garages and being told not to touch it, but ya did anyway! Well laundry power works the same way, only the ph isnt as brutal as Terco.

Too easy...the can :-)

mikep · « **Reply #17 on:** December 09, 2016, 12:59:37 PM »

So is that it then? Clean, dry and return to service? Would i need to oil it or anything? It's pretty oily now as well as grubby, even though the bike's only done 46000km.

mikep · « **Reply #18 on:** December 09, 2016, 09:29:36 PM »

Well, the air filter is now hanging on a post in the back yard, drying.

I can't remember who it was that suggested looking at the filter in the small black box just in front of the main air filter, but i looked - it looked fine until i touched it and it fell apart. While carrying it around to the m/cycle dealer it turned into mainly dust, wouldn't want that to happen in-situ, so thanks to whoever it was said to look at it.

Now, next problem, i was grateful to our local dealer who gave me a bit of filter foam to replace my disintegrated bit, and bought a set of bar risers, been meaning to do that for ages. The riser choices were 20mm or 35 mm so i got 35 mm. Problem is, the handbrake hose is a bit tight even after re-routing it so it goes over and in front of the steering head instead of under and between the forks. Another 20 or 30mm length would be nice - it seems to get a bit of a pinch from the steering head when on full left lock. Anyone got any ideas? Is there a better route for it, and if i decide i need to get the hose lengthened do i need a new hose or is there some way of lengthening the existing one? Thanks for any suggestions.

Greencan · « **Reply #19 on:** December 09, 2016, 10:16:12 PM »

Evenin' Mike et al....

Not sure just how you have re-routed that handbrake, but you should not have to extend the hose with the 35mm risers. The master cylinder (lever removed), can successfully be re-located and reattached so that the hose is not stretch when on full L lock.

Unfortunately I dont have bikes (anymore), with that riser height to take a pic of and send to you. Bike one's bars are back to stnd. and bike two has police risers fitted, so no re-routing needed.

Cheers the can :-)

mikep · « **Reply #20 on:** December 09, 2016, 10:26:59 PM »

Thanks, 'Can.

You know i never thought to relocate the master cylinder! Its a bit late just now so tomorrow I'll go have a look to see how it might be done.

Greencan · « **Reply #21 on:** December 10, 2016, 07:30:17 AM »

Mornin'...

From memory, I thought the brake line passed over the top of the triple clamp and was retained with the 'wire' clip on the triple clamp (post riser install), to give it the reach. As opposed to the original routing, beneath the triple clamp. Anyway, by releasing the master cylinder (lever removed), and turning the handle bars from side to side, was able to 'thread' the master cylinder (hose attached), so that the hose attached to the ABS actuator wasnt stretched on full left lock. A bit like fiddling with those metal puzzles, then secured the hose bemeath that 'wire' clamp on the leading edge of the triple clamp.

The master cylinder should be doweled, so when you re-attach it, its in the same place.

Good luck with it....interested in your oppinion once that scrubbed up OEM air filter is totally dry.

Cheers :-)

mikep · « **Reply #22 on:** December 10, 2016, 01:32:07 PM »

I've tried it in just about every position i can, and the best seems to be as you've described, except i've had to relocate the hose to above that locating pin, instead of below it as it was originally. Both above and below are tight with above just a little better. Really, the best position would be exactly where the pin is which would mean cutting it off. As it seems designed to help avoid the hose connection to the master cylinder moving and maybe eventually loosening, that does not seem to be a good idea - maybe?

Greencan · « **Reply #23 on:** December 10, 2016, 05:50:37 PM »

Arvo Mike...

If the pin you refer is the dowell that prevents the brake master cylinder rotating on the handle bars, the removing that is a very bad idea. Dont do it.

Rotate the handle bars fwd within their clamps would surely free up the hose, yes.

Cheers :-)

mikep · « **Reply #24 on:** December 10, 2016, 06:43:51 PM »

Y'know, i thought "brakes are quite important, yes?" then, "Honda engineers designed that bit for a reason hmmm" then i thought "don'tbe a d-head - leave it alone!

So i did leave it alone, and by rotating the bars as you said and some micrometric adjustments to every movable part nearby, i got enough play to satisfy me. Thanks for the input. Now, if i reinstall the plastic bits the lock is down a 35 mm hole. I've got three choices; 1. leave the plastic off, 2. make an extension of 35mm on my key, 3. something else. So, about that item 3, any ideas for me? I did see somewhere else in the forums that people had replaced the plastic after bar riser installation.

ps the air filter clean went well and it's back in, took it fora short run and all is good. The new bar position works well for me too, much more relaxed riding position

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Author Topic: air filter (Read 10075 times)