OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Ask A Tech about your Honda ST1100 => Topic started by: Icor on April 12, 2016, 11:01:42 PM
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When I'm sitting at lights and try to place into 1st gear slowly I get a rather loud crunching sound. Sounds like old days when u didn't have scynro gear boxes. If I do the change fast bike jumps.
I have no leaks from with master or slave cylinders. Clutch isn't slipping But could it be sticking. Have considered a rebuild kit for master cylinder.
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When I'm sitting at lights and try to place into 1st gear slowly I get a rather loud crunching sound. Sounds like old days when u didn't have scynro gear boxes. If I do the change fast bike jumps.
I have no leaks from with master or slave cylinders. Clutch isn't slipping But could it be sticking. Have considered a rebuild kit for master cylinder.
Save us searching- 1100 or 1300.
1100s have had more problems with the clutch basket than 13s.
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Save us searching- 1100 or 1300.
1100s have had more problems with the clutch basket than 13s.
I'd take a guess and say it's an 1100 since the post is in the 1100 section; though I could be wrong!
Can't think of anything to really help but after the 24,000 km oil change on mine I did have trouble shifting into first with the other gears less difficult. After a couple hundred km (about a week) all was ok and no trouble since. I put it down to the difference in the oil causing issues in the clutch.
If you do the master you should also do the slave since you have the system apart anyway.
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You're right, Alan- I need to look at the post headers for more clues.
I'd have to agree (as will Brock)- the weight of the oil can make a big difference to the clutch and gears on the ST1100.
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Sorry all should have said 1100. There is no problems while on the move gear change is perfect is there a kit for the clutch slave cylinder. I was going to do the master and slave because of cheaper costs and elimination. There is no slippage at all in clutch. It's not always hard to get into gear. I've also considered the clutch plates being warped.
Is there any other clues I should look for regarding warped clutch other then being difficult to get in gear.
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When you are sitting still with clutch lever in and bike in gear - does it feel like it wants to creep forward?
My initial thought was clutch adjustment - but it is sounding more sinister than that. >:()
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No it doesn't. However when you start it cold it does want to move but only a few inches forward. Im very concerned about it to be honest. Can you adjust the couch on a 11. I thought being hydraulic you couldn't. Other then this problem I have very little trouble.
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Where is best place to put kits for slave and master clutch
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Definitely sounds like clutch not completely disengaging, try a clutch fluid replacement/bleed. The fluid may have a little water or air in it.
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The only other area to look at but it would be a last resort is the clutch springs. This would however make you creep forward as mentioned before. What oil is being run as that may have some input.
:grin
:wht11
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I've done the clutch fluid. Changed the engine oil to Penrite hpr 30 20-60. I've been think that I could be losing pressure due to either a leak in hose or internal master or slave. I was wondering about the springs or warped clutch. I thought I would do it step by step.
Just trying to source the kits for master and slave. Any ideas where to buy
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It might pay to check the operation of the clutch lever and related parts. There's a bushing (item 2) in the clutch lever which over time might wear as the bush is in direct contact with the push rod (item 1). See attached image
On mine the push rod wore a hole in the bushing and then started on the lever and the end result was excessive free play and clutch activation would work but nearer the grip than normal. Wondering if this could be your issue and at bad enough state that might cause the clutch to not disengage completely. Can't hurt to take the lever off and check it out.
I had to replace both the bush and the clutch lever and no clutch related issue since.
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I am no expert, but could it not simply be oil?
Being a wet clutch, when the clutch is in ... the oil is between the plates and if it was cold (higher viscosity) it could easily provide sufficient drag to rotate gears in the box and graaaaate and clunk into gear. It would also provide drag once in gear to try to move the bike fwd. Question: When its hot do the symptoms reduce? I would expect so.
I also noticed you are using a 20W-60. That means that when hot it is a 60 grade oil. 60 grade is on the thicker side and is defiantly more viscous than a 30 or 40 grade. This would increase any tendency to drag.
Its just a thought.