OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Electrics & Electronics - Volts, Amps and Fuses ST1300 => Topic started by: alans1100 on January 14, 2019, 08:22:42 PM
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Link to the Battery Tender I bought http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=13224.msg1248571#msg1248571 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=13224.msg1248571#msg1248571)
With this hex bolt being damaged (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4918/45022277135_ebf16f54a8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bAsWrv)20181118_174233 (https://flic.kr/p/2bAsWrv) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
I had to be a little creative in hooking the charger up.
Disconnected the negative lead from the battery and connected the black alligator clip.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/01/14/6656049cb873ca32cd18ab267ae46ccf.jpg)
Moved aside whatever sits across the top of the battery and put the red alligator clip on the positive side
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/01/14/8d95d30fde56a349c0ff3f3554707218.jpg)
Made sure the charger was set for a lead acid battery before connecting to the bike. It is designed so that should the charger lose power (blackout etc.) it will resume at the same setting. Book says it should take about 15 hours to get the battery from flat up to 80% of maximum charge and it won't charge if the battery is three volts or lower.
Why is it that on most electronic gear like this they can't fit the power plug the right way.
(http://www.imghostr.net/images/2019/01/14/b6a4804d3296ed0c8779301e2b574166.jpg)
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Ruby came with an Anderson Plug for this purpose. I havent seen a better or easier setup.
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Tammie checked the charger (as I asked her) before she came over and both lights are green so battery is charged the charger turned off.
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With this hex bolt being damaged (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4918/45022277135_ebf16f54a8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bAsWrv)20181118_174233 (https://flic.kr/p/2bAsWrv) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
Find a flat bladed screwdriver of a size that will wedge across the points of the hex and use that to drive the damaged bolt out. Then you can put in a new bolt.
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Find a flat bladed screwdriver of a size that will wedge across the points of the hex and use that to drive the damaged bolt out. Then you can put in a new bolt.
I did a search on how to remove a stuffed hex bolt and that was not one of the options not listed so when I go to Tammie's place I'll give it a go. I've already tapped the bolt with a hammer.
I wonder what the Honda dealer's mechanic used to tighten the bolt up with after he got the side panel off for the new battery they put in.
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Probably a mechanics best friend known as rattle gun
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If you need help to get that bolt out, let me know.
Ian
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Perhaps an "Easy Out" will do the job.
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Just got back from Tammie's place.
Turned the charger back on while I played around finishing off the coolant change.
Amber charge light came on for about 5 minutes followed by a flashing green which turned solid a little while later.
Bike started ok as expected.
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Bought some of these -
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/163145536723 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/163145536723)
same as what Glen put up on one of my other posts but a different brand.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/e1oAAOSwSwNbRszc/s-l1600.jpg)
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$5.55 incl postage!! :eek
I have no idea how they do that. i just posted off a small book and it cost $8.30 standard postage, within QLD, no insurance. It would have to weigh a fraction of what 4 metal bits would weigh.
Hopefully they are a good quality metal that will get the offending bolt out. ++
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$5.55 incl postage!! :eek
I have no idea how they do that. i just posted off a small book and it cost $8.30 standard postage, within QLD, no insurance. It would have to weigh a fraction of what 4 metal bits would weigh.
Hopefully they are a good quality metal that will get the offending bolt out. ++
Only needs to work once.
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Only needs to work once.
Many the time I would have cheerfully paid a lot more than $5.55 to get a damaged fastener out! :'(
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Mine arrived from Victoria today. Look the goods, but I don't have any problem bolts to remove to test them.
I looked the supplier up. The tools came from here:
https://tinyurl.com/ToolsCo
I still can't figure out how Australia Post calculates their postage when the total cost was $5.55. :think1
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Mine arrived from Victoria today. Look the goods, but I don't have any problem bolts to remove to test them.
I looked the supplier up. The tools came from here:
https://tinyurl.com/ToolsCo
I still can't figure out how Australia Post calculates their postage when the total cost was $5.55. :think1
Mine today as well arrived as well. When I bring the bike over from Tammies I'll see what happens.
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Mine today as well arrived as well. When I bring the bike over from Tammies I'll see what happens.
If the tool snaps off without removing the bolt I don't want to know about it! :-X >:()
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:popcorn :popcorn :X :X :thumbs
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Apply lots of CRC/RP7 and let it soak for quite a while before you make the attempt. :popcorn :popcorn
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Apply lots of CRC/RP7 and let it soak for quite a while before you make the attempt. :popcorn :popcorn
Or WD40 or Innox.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Cordless Impact driver with a hex tip out of a cheap tool kit has been my friend a couple of times
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So, I need to know. Did the tool extract the bolt??? :think1
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So, I need to know. Did the tool extract the bolt??? :think1
:popcorn
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So, I need to know. Did the tool extract the bolt??? :think1
:popcorn
Been to hot to worry about it yet.
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:popcorn
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So, I need to know. Did the tool extract the bolt??? :think1
:popcorn
Been to hot to worry about it yet.
To answer the question - I totally forgot about it and didn't worry about said bolt until I needed to install the wiring for the driving lights.
I tried a new Allen key from a set that Heather bought for her push bike and the reluctant bolt came out and was replaced. So the purpose bought tool was never used.
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I tried a new Allen key from a set that Heather bought for her push bike and the reluctant bolt came out and was replaced. So the purpose bought tool was never used.
My family have given me a new pushbike for my big birthday and when I tried to raise the seat the metric Allen key seemed like it would round out the little bolt. I'm sure everything on the bike would be metric, but I tried an imperial hex key and it fitted much better.
So for future reference, chaps, consider trying an imperial hex key if the metric key is a sloppy fit. That will save "rounding out" the "hole".