OzSTOC
Welcome - Getting started & FAQs - Read Here First... => Introduce Yourself & Your Bike => Topic started by: Ralphstboy on November 30, 2018, 08:53:50 AM
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G'day,
I built a Morganesque Trike, two front one rear powered by a CX500 which I plane on upgrading to an EX Police St1100 which I have,
so no doubt I will need help and advise along the way, check out my Trike,
see you later Joe.
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Hi Ralphstboy and welcome to OzSTOC from SA. :hatwave That's a pretty cool looking "Morgan", and you'll find lots of info here as you move to an ST1100.
See ya somehwere on the road.
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Well the 1100 is a great motor..
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Hi Joe,
Nice looking 'Morgan'.
ST1100, twice the Cc's and 10 times the silk.
Cheers,
Gary
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Ralphstboy - Welcome from near Toowoomba Qld
Rgds
GB
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Welcome Ralphstboy to OzSTOC from Toowoomba in Queensland :hatwave
Nice looking rig mate :eek
Enjoy the Forum :runyay
:beer
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That's certainly a great looking vehicle. Good luck with the conversion. Plenty of ST11 experts on tap here.
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Here's something similar, with an ST1100 engine, that was at our 2012 NatRally at Blackheath.
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That is one good looking trike. Welcome to the forum.
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G'day Ralphstboy, welcome to the forum :hatwave
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G'day,
I built a Morganesque Trike, two front one rear powered by a CX500 which I plane on upgrading to an EX Police St1100 which I have,
so no doubt I will need help and advise along the way, check out my Trike,
see you later Joe.
I would be interested in your cx500 engine once you upgrade...pm me if this is an option
Chris
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G'day and thanks for the welcome and nice comments RE Trike.
I know the owner of the blue jigger, it's a good rig and he will come in handy when I start the swap.
Hey Chris, your welcome to come and hear the CX running, it has an IgniTech ignition, so much better than the aging CDI, send me a message if you are interested and we can work something out.
One thing I can do is try to clean the dirty, oxidised ST motor, I know about Soda blasting etc but was hoping for some useful suggestions like brushing on Caustic and water blasting off, yes?
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Soda or crushed walnut shells would be the answer, caustic cleaner can do funny things to aluminium
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Thanks Brock, I'll check for mobile Soda Blasting operators in Bris, Joe.
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A vigorous application of degreaser and a stiff brush should remove most of the muck
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CT18 Truck Wash seems to brighten up alloy a bit. It might be worth a try if the surface is not too untidy.
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G'day,
I built a Morganesque Trike, two front one rear powered by a CX500 which I plane on upgrading to an EX Police St1100 which I have,
so no doubt I will need help and advise along the way, check out my Trike,
see you later Joe.
Isn't this just a three wheeled car like the original Morgan was? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morgan_Motor_Company#V-Twin_three-wheelers_(1911–1939)
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Glad to see that I am not the only one wanting to use an ST engine in something with more than two wheels!!! If its any help I plan to have a "starter gear Lazer cut to fit on the driveshaft for an electric reverse (I have a cad file for this) and it may well work out cheaper to have a couple done at the same time if you are interested.
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G'day, and thianks lot alloy cleaning tips and for the reverse idea.
Although my Trike looks alike a three wheeled car it is in fact a motorcycle and is registed as one, which is a good thing because if it were a car the ADR's are much stiffer.
and bike engine means no emissions to worry about, it all may change in the future mind.
I'm sure many of you would have known or heard of Ron Hewitt, he was a great mate of mine and built our trikes around the same time, he finished before me, his reverse consisted of a ring gear
and starter motor mounted on the drive shaft just behind the engine, man that reverse kicked up a racket, it worked but I doubt it would go very far up an incline.
My reverse will have an Elite racing transmissions reversing G/Box inline with the drive shaft, see the pic of the box along with the hardie spicer slip yoke and other bits, Joe.
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So I deduce you will have 5 reverse gears.
Just like the Italian tanks in WWII. :crackup
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Just curious as to how much your reverse box cost, I am braced and ready for a big number !!!
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Welcome aboard from the Adelaide Hills.
A great project there.
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Hi and a Warm Welcome from the Wild West :hatwave :runyay
:grin :slvr13 :grin
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G'day Fellas,
thanks for the warm welcome, it's warm here too, supposed to get to 38C, don't need that.
The G/Boox was 700 pounds delivered, it comes flange to flange with 1140 type flanges, made by Beagle Engineering and sold as Elite, they do a large range of racing gearboxes too,
see you later Joe.
PS, It was the cheapest I could find.
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G'day,
one last thing on this topic, can someone tell me if the swing arm drive shaft components all come off in the same direction as the UJ, I will need to dissemble it before it is cut and have collars welded for the tube extension,
and I need to be able to assemble it all again, not sure what holds the oil filled Black spring cover tube to the shaft, press fit?
Joe.
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Essentially you have to compress the spring that is under the black cover and then remove the collets that hold the center shaft into the UJ assembly I have seen pictures if it being done with a couple of pieces of Booker rod and bits of steel
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Thanks mate, it looks as if it all comes apart after removing the UJ, it appears there are two shock absorbers in the drive line, one inside the gearbox, I wonder if they grow when operating,
if they do the motor output shaft must protude a bit more then slide back to resting, if the do grow I will have to take it into account when making my drive shaft and leave room in the slip yoke, Joe.
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No need for a slip yoke as far as I can see That drive line shock absorber on the prop-shaft does not alter the total length of the shaft The part that connects to the universal can move backwards on its spine and the spring just keeps pushing back against it, I am just about to drop my engine from the frame and then I will be able to have a good look at the shaft in question and the more I think about It the more I would like to use the whole thing looking at the pictures and the manual it looks like the final drive end engages into an internally splined sleeve so if that can be made to fit into the end of my car driveshaft adjacent to my center bearing It might just do the trick all depends on lengths and how good that center bearing is... Because it would not hurt to have a bit more drive line shock absorption.
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Thanks for tha, I can't quite get my head arround how the shock works without increasing in length, if the UJ is splined and the shock is splined that wouldn't work, there two in the drive line whereas the CX only had one in the gearbox.
My final drive is chain drive after the bevel box so that will be even more absorbsion, Joe.
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Its simple the piece the spring pushes against is splined and can slide on the shaft and at the front it transmits the torque the two Teeth engage in shaped sockets that allow for some axial movement within the shaft but that does not vary its total length at all
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I am pretty sure there is no oil in the shaft as well, just in the pineapple. The springs will just keep constant pressure on the shaft, that will allow the spline end to slip in and out of the output socket of the engine as the rear goes up and down. The movement will not be very much.
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G'day Brock, I'm pretty sure the two dampers do just that, like when you select 1st gear, as I mentioned my final drive to the wheel is chain which is another damper , all will be revieled when I pull it down, Joe.