3D Printing

[StinkyPete]

During the great "Lockdown 2020", when the bike was mostly confined to the shed, and I had exhausted the painting/fixing/maintenance jobs around home, I decided to learn some new skills.

I bought a small 3D printer, and have been on a steep learning curve ever since.    There are lots of designs for just about everything you could want to make on https://www.thingiverse.com/   but I have also been trying my hand at producing some simple designs using an apparantly easy 3D design software package.     My most useful design/print so far is a divider for the bike's top box to replace the one I have been using which I made from coreflute and sticky tape.   What I did not appreciate is just how slow the printing process is, which I guess is not unexpected when it takes around four passes of the print head to lay down 1mm of plastic, and the walls of the object might be three or four layers thick.    I'll post some photos.

[StinkyPete]

Printer in action.



Dice Tower for gaming



Trinkets, including a pen, SD card and USB stick holder



Top Box Divider, with water bottle holders and campartment for wallet, phone etc

[Wild Rose]

That’s great Pete, it is amazing what people can make with a 3D printer
You might get good enough to start making bike parts that you can no longer get
Will be interesting to see what you have already made

[StinkyPete]

There are a variety of different plastic filaments that can be used.    Most common is PLA which prints easily and which is made from corn starch,  The downside of PLA is that it start to soften at temps over 60 degrees and can abosrb water over a long time.    ABS is probably the most environmentally durable, but produces toxic fumes when being printed so I wont be using that.    The compromise is a plastic called PETG which is fully water proof and temperature stable.    There are a good variety of colours available for most of the plastic fliaments, but I simply cant affort to keep too many colours on hand.

The printer I bought also provides free access to the files so that I can manufacture my own spare parts, as much of the printer is 3D printed.

[ruSTynutz]

Good stuff, Pete! 

You might encourage me to drag out the 2 3D printers I have...not! 

[ruSTynutz]

There are a variety of different plastic filaments that can be used.    Most common is PLA which prints easily and which is made from corn starch,  The downside of PLA is that it start to soften at temps over 60 degrees and can abosrb water over a long time.    ABS is probably the most environmentally durable, but produces toxic fumes when being printed so I wont be using that.    The compromise is a plastic called PETG which is fully water proof and temperature stable.    There are a good variety of colours available for most of the plastic fliaments, but I simply cant affort to keep too many colours on hand.

The printer I bought also provides free access to the files so that I can manufacture my own spare parts, as much of the printer is 3D printed.

What sort of prices are you looking at for the reels of plastic filaments, Pete?

[StinkyPete]

Quality PLA from Prusa is $63 per kilo plus shipping
Other reasonable quality PLA from Jaycar is $40 per kilo
Quality PETG from Prusa is around $68 per kilo plus shipping

Cheaper filament is available for around $30 per kilo and I've tried it, but the cheap stuff does not print as cleanly and if the filament contains impurities, it can block the nozzle, which is a pain to disassemble and clear.

[ruSTynutz]

Thanks for that, Pete!

I've got a box of the reels so will have to check which type I've got.
I do remember my brother telling me about the issues you've mentioned and how he stopped buying the cheap stuff so hopefully I've got the better quality stuff. 

[Brock]

I have read that some of the printer users develop improved components for their printer, that  they make freely available. There are some pretty clever people out there.

[StinkyPete]

I have read that some of the printer users develop improved components for their printer, that  they make freely available. There are some pretty clever people out there.

Yep!   There's a whole community of nerdy people who design improvements and upgrades, and then share what they have come up with.   In that regard, they are like ST owners....   

[HunterTodd]

Howdy All

My attempt at 3d printing a part for the ST1300.  A bracket which integrates the oxford heated grips switch. worked a treat.

Cheers

[ruSTynutz]

Looks good! 

[StinkyPete]

Howdy All
My attempt at 3d printing a part for the ST1300.  A bracket which integrates the oxford heated grips switch. worked a treat.
Cheers

Great to see someone else having a go at bike bits.   What type of filament did you use?

[HunterTodd]

I own the printer but my son drew the part.

The material is black abs.  The surface finish is pretty good but the original  intention was to fill and paint it to match the exiting switch gear. The part found its way onto the bike before I did this and has never come off!!

I have seen stuff made like that which is hard to pic from OEM.

My CB1100 whilst an excellent example of a retro bike has a rather cheap looking plastic sprocket cover, I was looking at scanning and printing a PLA copy which I could use as an investment to cast an aluminium copy but if I ever get the dough I will probably send the part to a mob in Mebourne who will scan it and metal print an exact aluminium copy.

[Cressida]

If you are printing parts to industrial standard you have to use ABS or if your nozzle temp can reach 300 degrees Celsius you can print in Nylon or poly carbonate. You really need an enclosure for ABS not only for fumes but to retain the heat.

I used to print with only ABS using Flashforge Creator Pro and it did fantastic job, then when moved house the wall cabinet fell off one morning and crushed it. When I got insurance money got scammed on next purchase on gumtree, so currently only have cheap printer known as Balco/ Wanhai/Aldi  that is not enclosed. However I can still print in ABS with varied results if I leave the room whilst printing with door shut to contain any heat and stop drafts.

Flashforge still make the Flashforge Creator Pro 2016 which is also dual head and can be brought brand new for under $1000 if you look around. Only downside is bed size of 220 x150mm so limited on size of prints unless you cut and join.

The latest Creator Pro 3 just released has large bed, can do all filaments but price tag of $3999

Have ordered new Snapmaker A350 from USA, which is 3D printer, Laser and CNC, but due to Covid 19 won't get until September this year hopefully. Then I will be experimenting again, but I will have too have enclosure. The reason most 3D printers are not enclosed is because Stratasys company own the patent for enclosures. So any enclosed printers are breaching patent and can be liable, unless they have paid the patent owner I suppose?

Depending on Brand of 3D printer, you can find user groups on facebook.

As for filament I have had great success with https://3dfillies.com/ they are an Australian company that sells many high quality filaments at very good prices.

If anyone wants any advice, I am only too happy too help or point you somewhere that can.

[StinkyPete]

Thanks for the "Heads Up" on 3d Fillies.   I have ordered a sample pack from Aurarum https://aurarum.com.au/shop/3d-printer-filament/pla-filament/1-75mm-filament/aurarum-pla-1-75mm-filament-sample/  and will do some test to see how I get on with it.   Different brands of PLA filaments seems to need different temepratures and print speeds to get the best results, but overall have found that I am getting really clean results with PLA by printing at an indicated 225 degrees and 80%.  This seems a bit hot, but I suspect the temperature display on my printer is reading high.

The soon to be released Creality CR6 SE looks like a nice piece of kit at a budget price.

[Cressida]

It really depends on what you want to print and the application. PLA is ok for inside items as long as you don't submit them to over about 60 Celsius. It has no give like ABS or similar filaments and as it is corn based doesn't like moisture or outside. I looked at the new Creality as a kickstarter price but that is $319 US + 117 HK$ for shipping to Au.

For that sort of money I would buy the Creator Pro 2016 as even though Flashforge make much more expensive printers, people still want that one. It has two print heads, flashable firmware that is open source, and can be highly modified eg Full metal Hotend, or remote operation or camera etc. has full aluminium frame and Perspex/Plexiglas enclosure sealing it suitably for ABS. Flashforge have large facebook group, and many wont buy any other printer except Creator Pro 2016 or earlier. All other flashforge have propriety firmware that isn't open source.

That printer sells in US for $1300 US, many places here will advertise it at AU $1300 but it is available for less, they are still in high demand so Flashforge are still making them but have reduced price.

I would buy another tomorrow if wife would allow, but as I ordered my new one last year, I had to either cancel that one to buy another Creator Pro or wait till it arrives.

Most of your printers that are under $1000 US, only reach max 260 Celsius as they have Teflon tube in hot end, but with MIcro swiss or clone all metal hot end and if the machine firmware supports printer it can reach 300 Celsius which is hot enough to print Nylon etc.

Some of your $15000+ industrial printers that use ABS, also pump air into enclosure at !00 Celsius which increases strength of ABS dramatically according to what I have been told.

The reason they sell the new ABS+ and similar is so you can print without fumes, but it isn't as good as ABS think Lego.

[StinkyPete]

This is the enclosure that I've made for my printer.   It is absed upon an Ikea "Lack" coffee table, with the necessary adaption parts printed using my printer.  I used corflute for the sides and back insteasd of clear acetate sheet to save a few dollars, but the front doors are clear acetate.  Because Chris was not entirely happy with the slight smell that is produced when when printing with PLA, I've incorporated a ventilation system.   The outlet is inside the enclosure, behind the printer at the back of the bench top (the rectangular hole), and uses a 100mm extractor fan and 90mm stormwater pipe with the fumes  ultimately  blown through a vent in the floor to our under house space.   The extraction system is essentially invisible and low profile and works a treat.

[ruSTynutz]

That's really neat...good stuff! 

[Brock]

Not bad, cant cut a hole in the floor at my house, its a concrete slab and there is just more dirt under it..

[StinkyPete]

My son broke the comb on his hair clipper, so I printed him a new one.   

[ruSTynutz]

Hey Pete, that's pretty good...

Oh...Kev broke the mirror housing on his ST, do you reckon you could print him a new one??? 

[StinkyPete]

Hey Pete, that's pretty good...

Oh...Kev broke the mirror housing on his ST, do you reckon you could print him a new one??? 

No, but Kev should get in contact with OzSTOC's  "John g" who has a business repairing and respraying broken motorcycle panels.   His work is truly amazing.

[Bodø]

Now if only he could get it across the border.

[StinkyPete]

Now if only he could get it across the border.

Post still works.....