Timing Belt (and many other Bits as neccessary) Change Over

[alans1100]

On Friday morning I took a few leisurely hours and replaced the upper fairing and (cleaning as I go) all the other bits that go with it and making sure the driving light wiring made it into the mirror housings ok for the upcoming HID upgrade.

Heather found these for me a couple weeks ago. One of the screen mounting nuts fell out and needed replacing. I was going to order the same in black but Heather beat me to it and ordered blue.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SCREEN-BOLT-KIT-HONDA-ST1100-PAN-EUROPEAN-89-02-5-BOLT-BLUE-ALUMINIUM-/301621345346?epid=706898923&hash=item463a087c42:g:qPgAAOxyjP1R0wxY

Took this to show bike in her current state and tried to get pics of bolts in the screen but camera failed to focus enough.....(operator error) another time maybe.



I could have put the lower panels on as well but leaving them off will make changing the RH heat sheild and bolts on both sides a little easier.

[STeveo]

If your up to fitting the lower panels, do you want me to send the one I have here to you or can you wait till I come over for the Nat rally?

 

[alans1100]

If your up to fitting the lower panels, do you want me to send the one I have here to you or can you wait till I come over for the Nat rally?

 

It's ok Steve, and thanks for the thought. I can wait a few more weeks.........it doesn't take to much to change them over.

[alans1100]

I should have call this thread something other than timing belt change over. As it's now grown to cooling sytem, exhaust sheild and screen bolts....well, whatever I have just ordered the rest of my parts this morning.

Suppose I can't complain $500 in 6.5 years or aound $75 a year. That's for two parts orders and includes new iridium plugs which I also ordered this morning from the UK.

Tomorrow we're going over by car to do shopping and getting the new coolant for the bike while there.......as there's nothing suitable for a bike where I live

[Brock]

Title edited...

[alans1100]

Title edited...

Thanks Brock.........that works

[Lionel]

My favourite mechanic (SAAZ) is coming over next Tuesday to change the timing belt on my 2002 ST1100P (200,160 km).
I don't have a lift so I'll repeat what we did last time for my 2000 ST1100P. Reverse it up a ramp and onto my 8'x4' steel box trailer. Put it on the centre stand with the front wheel hanging over the tailgate.
Not only does this make it easier to work on but also the bike is ready to be transported to a real mechanic if something goes wrong.
Sorry SAAZ, couldn't resist it.

[saaz]

No offence, just means I don't have to be too careful as there is a backup plan 

My favourite mechanic (SAAZ) is coming over next Tuesday to change the timing belt on my 2002 ST1100P (200,160 km).
I don't have a lift so I'll repeat what we did last time for my 2000 ST1100P. Reverse it up a ramp and onto my 8'x4' steel box trailer. Put it on the centre stand with the front wheel hanging over the tailgate.
Not only does this make it easier to work on but also the bike is ready to be transported to a real mechanic if something goes wrong.
Sorry SAAZ, couldn't resist it.

[alans1100]

Whilst waiting for my mysteriously shipped to Belgium parts to arrive a couple items ordered from e-bay arrived earlier than expected.

Blue screen bolts arrived a couple weeks ago and fitted while waiting for my parts.



Hand Grips arrived this morning.......took two weeks from Hong Kong. I think I put them the wrong way around, doesn't matter as I need to add some glue anyway. Bar ends might need a touch as well.








 

[alans1100]

After the delivery of my parts this morning I made a start on getting the my 1100 back together. Sorry, no pics for the following.

The RH exhaust heat shield has been replaced along with new bolts on both shields.
Coolant overflow hose replaced.
New fuel filter installed

New coolant bottle ordered as the old one was to brittle. The bottle was ordered from the dealer in Port Augusta where I will have drive the 125 kms to get it next week. I planned to replace the bottle in the near future and I was hoping it would be ok 'til then.

The other little by-pass hose from the thermostat to the water pipe was also done.
New elbows fitted in the valley plus new hose clamps in there as well.
New Carb insulators installed.
Lubricated throttle linkages as well.

Went to refit the carbs but wasn't sure if I had the carb drains fitted to the right hose..........back to the manual........had to swap hoses........(s**t happens) so that done but while doing it the retaining clip slid down the hose out of sight. So had to pull carbs out again and get Heather to get in there get the clip.

So the hose is back on and clipped, carbs in place ready to be pushed home. Had to loosen two of the clamp screws a little before the carbs would seat properly. That's all good........going better than I hoped. Tighten up three clamps but the fourth was a no go. Turns out I loosened it off too much and the nut and screw fell out of position.

Talk about trial and error..........lol.......undo the other three clamps, pull carbs off again and replace screw and nut in carb clamp. Refit drain hose and sit carbs in ready for later.

Tomorrows problem that one.

[saaz]

Been there, done that with things not going strictly to plan.  Good for character building so they so, but it is a right royal pain at the time 

[Turtle]

Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks

Turtle

[saaz]

If you follow the timing belt change procedure in the Haynes manual exactly, the job is not that hard.  Taking all the bodywork off and the radiator takes the most time.

[alans1100]

Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks

Turtle

Essential replacement costs for parts including shipping for two orders from the US was $430.........Had I made only one order I would have saved an extra $50 shipping cost.

On top of that I ordered reserve tank (coolant bottle) locally for $60 as I need the part next week and another $40 for Iridium plugs from the UK which I have yet to fit.

   

[alans1100]

If you follow the timing belt change procedure in the Haynes manual exactly, the job is not that hard.  Taking all the bodywork off and the radiator takes the most time.

I just used the Honda manual for reference........except for clutch cover removal.

[gaz]

Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks

Turtle

it is a good read, thanks

[alans1100]

I've gone as far as I can go as I need to wait for the coolant overflow bottle before I can put the rest of the plastic back on. So LH side is done apart from the side cover.

[alans1100]

I got brave this afternoon and started the bike after adding the coolant. Thought I'd better do that now before I forgot.

Went to start the bike, no go......I didn't think it would start after 3 months but gave it ago. Battery from Heather's bike should do it.......jumper leads on.....still no go.........mmmm!!!!.......kill switch was off........well the motor turned over........that's a start. Could see the fuel pumping into the new filter then a half hearted attempt at running very roughly.

Choke off..tried again......it ran a bit better, sort of.......then Heather said it's leaking from there. Key off........I knew what she meant as I hadn't replaced the radiator cap just in case I need to add more coolant. Well I topped the coolant, replaced the cap and the bottle I mixed the coolant in came in handy to put the overflow hose into plus some spare coolant.

Then there was a no go on the start........just turning over like no spark.......don't remember doing anything to the leads or coils. Let it sit for a minute or two while I went inside for a drink.
Five minutes later........it finally coughed and spluttered back into some sort of life. It's running don't stop it.......throttle lock on at just above idle will do. Bit loud; I thought that knocking sound......thinking.....did I get the timing wrong ....... it looked ok before I put the cover back on......is one side out a little. On the RH side that knocking sound.........is it the clutch or the gearing behind it. Walked around the other side of the bike......clutch in.....into first.....clutch out......knocking sound reduced.......repeated that process a couple times .........Back to neutral and let the motor run to charge the battery.

Back around the other side of the bike, coolant in bottle had risen a little and I could see a couple air bubbles......Let it run for about another 10 minutes, the fan cut in/out a few times so that still works ok. No visible coolant leaks while under pressure which I guess is a good sign.

Stopped and started the motor a couple times but it could do with a carb balance in the near future.......so I'll get a new air cleaner( I have the plugs) and book it in. Motor seems to rev freely up to 5,000 rpm and idles at 1200 rpm on the tacho.......normal for mine but louder than usual but maybe 'cause most of the the fairing is off.

[alans1100]

On the 24th I noticed a slight misfire coming from what sounded like no. 3 cylinder. Pulled the plugs as it was running to confirm and no. 3 sounded like it. Swapped the plugs over on that side and no change. I also heard what sounded like air being sucked in. Stopped the motor and noticed the no. 3 carb insulator clamp was loose. Tightened that up and started motor again. Air leak gone, but misfire still there. Packed up for the day and decided to leave it 'til the next day.

Well, the next day on the 25th it rained on and off for half the day so left it until the 26th. Between times though I tossed a few ideas around (thanks to Saaz and a couple guys on the phoenix site as well) as to what might cause it. The manual didn't seem to cover this type of misfire either.

Came to the conclusion it was related to the work I'd done. Thinking also that sometimes the least thing can cause the most grief. Was it possible that one carb didn't seat properly causing to much air into one cylinder or did I get a minor fuel blockage. Before I went further, I rechecked the carb clamps; back two were tight. The front two, the most difficult to see need a turn or two on the bolts. Next I pulled the leads off the plugs, pushed each one in towards the coils, the rest of the leads looked ok so replaced them back on the plugs and made sure they seated correctly.

Organised my temporary coolant bottle and put overflow tube in it.

I have no idea exactly what caused the misfire, nor how I fixed it but after starting up again it was gone. Started up first time, no choke, cold motor and about 6-800 rpm. Let it idle and waited for temp gauge to get to normal for the bike and revved motor a few times up to 5000 rpm. Still needs a carb balance though.

Next problem......Coolant Bottle.......on back order so maybe two weeks before I will get it. Coming in from Japan so it'll be at least that before I can but it back together.










 

[Abe]

Alan do you need a carby sync & instructions (Turtle just used it on his), if so I can post mine to you and get it back at Ebor??

Just PM me if so.

Cheers
Dave

[Abe]

Alan it was posted on Thursday express post (I have tracking number if required)

Good luck.

Thanks for your input Turtle

Cheers
Dave

[alans1100]

Don't think it'll be so quick.....not this weekend......

[saaz]

I have 2 options for doing a synch if you need it (carbtune and the vacuum one).

If you still have the fuel cutoff valve fitted it can take a while to start up, as there has to be sufficient vacuum to allow the fuel from the pump to get through, which happens slowly when just cranking the bike over.  Can take a while just turning the bike over.

Applying vacuum by sucking on the hose to the fuel cutoff valve can allow enough fuel through to start the bike after turning the ignition on and off a few times.  Removing the vacuum fuel cutoff valves is the other way to do it.

[alans1100]

Alan it was posted on Thursday express post (I have tracking number if required)

Good luck.

Thanks for your input Turtle

Cheers
Dave

Arrived in mail today sometime while we were out.

Was going to leave it until tomorrow to sort the carb balance out but had enough daylight left so did it.

I took the readings before I adjusted anything
Number 2 & 4 both read 4.5 on the scale.
Number 1 was 5
Number 3 was way out at 7

Adjusting number three down raised the readings on 4 up to nearly 6
Slight tweak on number 2 to equalise that one with number 4.
With minor adjustments on 1 and 3 they are all now reading 6.

I'll recheck tomorrow before I put the air cleaner back together.

Can't be any worse than before but it certainly sounds a lot better.

[Abe]

Glad it got there OK.

No doubt you know this:-

No. 4 is the constant (if everything being right, internally) non adjustable, and every other carby should be calibrated to it (No. 4).  It will take, time, adjustment, time, adjust, coffee, adjustment, time to get it right.  I'm in no rush for the sync meter, so take your time (I do have a special spare).

If you find something in the instructions that needs attention just let me know so the next Ozstoc user can benefit from our learning.

Look forward to reading your results.

Cheers
Dave