Repair or Replace

[Williamson]

I'd like to extend this discussion but not on this thread.

.... its the bits around the motor that are aging and becoming unreliable (much like the rider) and expensive to repair or replace.

.... expensive to repair (like the rider) or replace (unlike the rider).

[Langers]

Why thank you Michael.
The problem, as I see it, is mainly the front end - the forks seals are leaking yet again (3 expensive visits in 4 years albeit one visit was to rectify too much oil in the forks at the first visit (another reason I don't use the pre-eminent Honda/Beemer dealer south of Adelaide ever, ever again)), the front disks and pads are due for replacement. And there is a serious rattle coming from the front which I suspect is the linked brake thingy down on the LHS of the front wheel. These are jobs which need knowledge, skill and the right tools. I'm happy to tackle a fuel pump or speed sensor but playing with something like the front end that is vital to ones safety - I know my limitations.
On the other side of the coin, considering the enjoyment I've had from the bike, it doesn't owe me a thing and I'll be really sad to see it go and selling it in its current condition is not ideal and so it is quite a conundrum as to what to do.
Replace isn't really an option. The other bike is a 2017 V-Strom 1000 and I really don't have too many complaints given it's about 90kg lighter and plenty of grunt - excepting it's got a chain, it's not the right colour, it's not as pretty, it doesn't have the same road presence, the rider is more open to the elements and it chews through the dual road tyres (10,000km from a set of Metzler Tourance tyres which in my view is terrible). Actually, it's not as bad as I make out but it's not a 2008 Honda St1300

[Brock]

Replacing the brake pads is an easy task, and replacing the disks isnt difficult either, just need to take the wheel off first..
The loose rattly bit may be the anti dive device on the left fork lower ( does the 1300 have one??).

[Dragonstaff]

The loose rattly bit may be the anti dive device on the left fork lower ( does the 1300 have one??).

It does.

Even fork seals aren't that difficult, just a little time consuming removing all the plastic and supporting the engine while the front end is in bits.

[Langers]

Thanks gents, you both are quite correct. I think it doesn't help that I've a very confined space to work in being a 2 car garage containing 1 car, 2 bikes and 3 walls with cabinets full of "stuff" which might be useful "one day" (not to mention all my son's gear because he is currently renovating his home).
I'll see how I go. I guess I could always remove the forks and have someone who knows what they are doing do the fork seals.

[StinkyPete]

You are welcome to plonk it in my shed for a couple of weeks, so you can get the jobs done.   

[Dragonstaff]

You are welcome to plonk it in my shed for a couple of weeks, so you can get the jobs done.   

I would make the same offer, but the travel might be a bit much.

Of course, cars don't really need to be inside...

[Williamson]

You are welcome to plonk it in my shed for a couple of weeks, so you can get the jobs done.   

That's an offer too good to refuse.  You'll get some advice and assistance with the jobs, and if it drags on a bit longer than Pete would like, you're probably likely to get it reassembled for free, just to clear up a spot in the shed.

[Langers]

Thank you very much Pete, that would be a great help. I reckon I'd leave the replacement of the fork seals to the experts who could also advise on the springs and oil weight taking into account the weight the bike has to carry on longer trips (me - a lot, Julie - not so much, luggage mainly of the female persuasion - more than it should be (IMHO, but don't tell Julie)) so the work I envisage would be removing the front wheel to replace disks (and pads), removing the forks for a specialist fork place to do the job on the seals and springs if required and then putting it all back together again. Replacing the brake and clutch fluids should be done as well.
It should really be less than a weeks work - just a matter of timing with booking the shed with Pete and the suspension place once I've got all the consumables.
And Michael - I like your thinking.

[StinkyPete]

I'm happy to help with replacing disks and pads,  but forks are out of my comfort zone.      Providing cups of tea, lunch, and an afternoon red are well within my skill level.   

[Dragonstaff]

... but forks are out of my comfort zone.   

Forks are not really a problem, as long as you are careful removing the caps, and possibly have an assistant to put them back. The spring tension has to be let go carefully so that caps don't fly off into the wide blue yonder, or a wrongly-positioned face. And you need to be careful with how you lay parts out, so that you don't inadvertently put a spring back upside down.