Timing Belt (and many other Bits as neccessary) Change Over

[alans1100]

Today I got motivated and stripped the plastic off of my 1100 in readiness for the timing belt replacement. This might take about a month or so to complete as it depends if I do the belt myself or take it to the dealer to have it done.

During the process I noticed a few worn and damaged parts that will need replacing some of which I can live with until the finances allow.

The first thing I noticed was a missing bolt on the RH exhaust heat shield and the front shield bolting point had sheered off. I replaced the LH shield last year for a similar reason but the RH side is worse.


RH Exhaust Heat Sheild


The Upper Fairing has two damaged bolting locations

One underneath the RH side of the headlight where the middle fairing inner panel locates. This may have happened during the last fork seal replacement about three years ago as the middle fairing would have been removed at that time.



The second is where the RH Middle fairing locates with the upper fairing just below the air vent. This might have happened when the bike fell to right four years ago which also broke the RH mirror cover.



The Middle Fairing Inner Cover on the RH side has a seized bolt (bolts to Middle fairing) and the clip at the bottom refused to come out as well



All the plastic is now off and put in the garden shed.

Next up is the Radiator which I will do later.
 
So far I have checked the hoses and all seem ok. There are no visible signs of coolant loss and the coolant overflow is at the low level. Before I go further I will run the motor until it reaches operating temp and see if there's any coolant leaks. Hope not.

[alans1100]

When I took Heather Down to the Hospital yesterday I called into Micks Motorcycles http://micksmotorcyclesgawler.com.au/ for a price on getting the timing belt changed over.

With the bike stripped down it should only take about an hour so a $100 should cover it with me supplying parts. I asked about doing the fork seals as well and replacing the OEM springs with supplied progressive ones and that'll come to $300 at the most. Oh!! nearly forgot........Honda coolant $11 a litre......need some of that too.

I'll order the parts today hopefully be back on the road by the middle of Feb or earlier.

While there I dropped off an Ozstoc Card and mentioned the rally. They never had any Sts but plenty of 'wings out the back. Might get this wrong but a Yamaha (is it FJR?) and a Kawasaki (is it1400GTR?) both grey and looking similar to the 1300 from the front.

I've also re-routed the wiring for the driving lights in readiness for the police light brackets later on in the year.

[saaz]

Yamaha FJR1300 and Kawasaki GTR1400 are popular.  More on the sport that touring side compared to the ST1300.  Stripping the bike down takes to longest in doing the timing belt, but well worth doing what you can while it is undressed...

[alans1100]

I had a delay in ordering parts but I did order some yesterday.

This morning I received an e-mail thanking me for the order and that my parts have been shipped on the 19th of January .........hey........wait a minute......read that again......yes the 19th....... Today is the 17th. ok, does that mean my parts will get here before they've been sent?.......Think not. Anyone else think that's a bit weird or what?

Prices are $US in our money it came to about $175

Thank you for purchasing with discounthondaparts.
Your order reference number is: 1602915.
Date shipped:1/19/2013
Shipping method:USPS Priority Mail
 
BILLING INFORMATION:
Alan Williams
Wright Street
Peterborough So 5422 Australia
 
SHIPPING INFORMATION:
Alan Williams
Wright Street
 
Peterborough  5422 Australia
 
PRODUCT INFORMATION:

Part Number: 19505-MT3-000
Description: HOSE B, WATER        for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.45
Total Cost: $11.45

Part Number: 19504-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, L. THERMOSTAT  for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $17.23
Total Cost: $17.23

Part Number: 19506-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, R. THERMOSTAT  for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $14.50
Total Cost: $14.50

Part Number: 19503-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, RADIATOR       for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.62
Total Cost: $11.62

Part Number: 91307-MB0-003
Description: O-RING (54X2)        for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $1.80
Total Cost: $1.80

Part Number: 50520-MT3-601
Description: SPRING, MAIN STAND   for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $7.88
Total Cost: $7.88

Part Number: 19045-MY3-621
Description: CAP, RADIATOR        for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $23.61
Total Cost: $23.61

Part Number: 19300-MG9-000
Description: THERMOSTAT           for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $28.67
Total Cost: $28.67

Part Number: 90657-SB0-003
Description: CLIP, SPLASH SHIELD  for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 2
Shipped Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.75
Total Cost: $5.50

Part Number: 90651-MT3-000
Description: CLIP                 for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $1.42
Total Cost: $1.42
 
ORDER TOTALS:
Item Total: $123.68
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $54.95
Order Total: $178.63

[Brock]

 

[Biggles]

This morning I received an e-mail thanking me for the order and that my parts have been shipped on the 19th of January .........hey........wait a minute......read that again......yes the 19th....... Today is the 17th. ok, does that mean my parts will get here before they've been sent?.......Think not. Anyone else think that's a bit weird or what?

The USA is in a different time zone.  That explains it.    ::)   

[alans1100]

I ordered a Torque wrench last week and it arrived this morning.

Yep!!! I've decide to do the belt change over myself.......still waiting for the cooling system parts to arrive before I can remove the old parts.

[saaz]

If you follow the procedures in the manual it is relatively straight forward. AS with doing the valves, I triple check that all the markings are exactly as they should be before putting everything back together.

[alans1100]

With the near arrival of my parts this afternoon I've drained the cooling system, removed the radiator and loosened all the bolts so I can removing the timing belt cover in the morning and get the belt changed over as well...so that's tomorrows task.

Hoses weren't that easy to get off the radiator and two clamps on the thermostat side need replacing.

Will add a pic or two after the belt is done.

[rjstorrie]

 

[alans1100]

This morning at the not so bright and early time (for me) of 9:30 am I started the process for the timing belt change over.

The following link; https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54109647/ST1100%20Timing%20Belt.mht certainly helped with getting the centre cover off and doing it wasn't has hard as expected. I think I had more trouble getting the cover out of the frame.

Covers offs and old belt waiting to come off. I lined up timing marks at this point and then removed the LH retaining plate. Needless to say that timing was checked everytime I did something (just in case).



I took some pics of the timing marks on the driven cam gears and drive gear but as luck would have it they are slightly out of focus. Finding the timing punch dot on the drive gear was assisted with the use of a torch. I just could see that tiny dot.

I tripple checked everything before I removed the belt. The hardest part was getting the old belt out from under the drive gear (about 15mins). Probably would have been easier with the clutch cover removed or the motor on a bench but I didn't want to go there. Eventually it came out and I ended up with this



I checked the belt condition and it looked hardly worn. I suppose it could have lasted another 50,000kms or another 10kms.....who knows.



All timing marks still in order so I took the old belt inside and bought the new one out. (hate mix them up) The new belt was easier to get in under the drive gear so I just left the belt roughly in line with all the gears and left it to go down the shop. About an hour later I started to put the belt on properly as instructed and ended up having to adjust the belt on the cam gears 1 tooth On the RH and two on the LH. While I was doing this the LH cam moved slighly so I had to start all over again after aligning the timing mark. The next hardest part was getting the new belt to slide on to the water pump pulley but eventually I got it right.
Timing still aligned up ok so spun the motor a few times to sit the belt in properly as written in the manual. Replaced the plate on the LH cam gear, loosened the tension bolt, turn the motor a couple more times, tighten the tension bolt and then notice there's more about installing a new belt on another page so I had to go and print that out.

Here we go again, loosen tension bolt, a couple more turns, make sure it all lines up again, turn motor until the (almost invisible) dot is three teeth past the timing mark and and then tighten tension bolt. One more check to make sure timing marks are ligned up and the putting back together begins.

This centre cover went back in past the drive gear easier than expected but getting the bolt holes to line up wasn't



The rest of the cam covers on, spark plugs and leads reinstalled.



Now ready for the next stage. Replace coolant hoses and and thermostat which means removing carbs as part of the process.

[saaz]

Good job 

[Brock]

 

[alans1100]

This morning the thermostat housing was removed and cleaned up. looks almost new now......

The old thermostat was in the closed position, and I've heard that stay open if they fail, but there's a new one in there now. First time I've had a thermostat locate in a specific position. That's all put back together except for tightening the bolts.

This afternoon it's operation carb removal.

[Brock]

May I suggest a run first, so that if it fails later, you dont have to pull the bike fully apart to fault find.

[alans1100]

May I suggest a run first, so that if it fails later, you dont have to pull the bike fully apart to fault find.

the temp guage suggested the thermostat may have been faulty....may not be opening fully which would give the same indication.

Anyway it's been replaced with a new one. 

[alans1100]

As an update......the carbs are off and all but the elbows to remove. No rush. But coolant hose on LH bank was close to bursting at the elbow joint, so doing timing belt and cooling system at the same time paid off.

Three of the screws on the carb insulator joints below the carbs were all visible (LH and rear RH). The RH front was very elusive. Ended up getting my little led torch and shining it in the space where the screw should have been. Middle of the day and it looked darker than a moonless night in that little space.

A lot of red dust from my time at Karratha around my carbs so all the linkages need TLC as well.

All these little extras:
 
Carb insulators
O rings elbow
elbows (these are prone to cracking so better to replace now rather than later)
elbow clamps
By pass hose
coolant overflow hose
Fuel filter

are in my next order, so the bike sits for a couple more weeks.

[StinkyPete]

Nice work Alan, and saving a bag of gold doing it yourself.

[alans1100]

Nice work Alan, and saving a bag of gold doing it yourself.

I might have saved a little and I've exercised some brain cells that I'd forgotten I had as well.

[alans1100]

Not much more I can do to the bike until I get my next order but I have put the thermostat back in place and put the new hoses on that. I'll flush the radiator later and refit that tomorrow.

I've added the coolant overflow bottle on to the list of things to do as well and that can be done anytime.

How easy do the carbs remount with the new insulator rubbers?

Here's the old/new hoses showing the Elbow end. Hose in top of picture is the RH side which isn't quite as bad as the LH one.



There's no eveidence of the elbows being cracked but the're getting replaced

RH



LH

[Abe]

Hi Alan,

I put some (very lightly) rubber grease on the insulators prior to putting the carb's back on.  I stood on the nearside (left) and sat the carb tubes JUST into the insulators and then pushed down on the offside bank and they went in with a little force.

I have two (one expensive and one not so expensive) snail type syncro's meters that will help you tune your carb's, if you need them, just PM your address and they will be on their way.

I did my insulators and clamps, spark plugs, air filter, carb sync what a huge difference,  now getting easy riding 5.05 L/100km.

Cheers
Dave

[alans1100]

Thanks Abe,

I was going to get the carb balance done at the same time as my new front springs and seals.

The bike hasn't run as good as it was before I had my first and only carb balance done two years ago. Not sure what they did but it's all ways sounded a little off since then.

[Abe]

No problems, I can bring the sync's down there in March and we can have a "workshop" on your bike????.

It's not that hard to do BUT you need to read and understand first. (not saying you don't already)

Just changed the fork oil (removed drained, flushed, cleaned) on mine to Castrol 10W and adjusted the oil level and boy oh boy what a huge difference for the better.  (new tyres as well)

Cheers
Dave

[Yorkie]

Hi Abe, If you bring your syncro meter we could turn Middleton into a maintenance Weekend.

[alans1100]

Well That was an exciting few hours.

It Took 20 mins to get the radiator out of the bike and something like two hours plus to get it back in.

The LH bolt retaining didn't want to go in. must have been pure luck when the thread caught hold an turned enough to hold the radiator while I put the RH bolt in.

Then the hose from the thernostat to the radiator didn't want to slide onto the inlet tube.

So I let it sit all afternoon until the temp cooled down and had another go. Removed the hose completly and coated both hose and fittings with Vaseline again just enough for the hose to slide home where it should be. Almost forgot one of the clamps ((seniors moment)another one). Double checked that all the clamps were tight and then removed the coolant bottle and drained that. Flushed that out and that's ready to go back in when next order arrives.

So the bike sits until then.