OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Honda ST1100 General Questions => Topic started by: alans1100 on December 16, 2012, 07:32:50 PM
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Today I got motivated and stripped the plastic off of my 1100 in readiness for the timing belt replacement. This might take about a month or so to complete as it depends if I do the belt myself or take it to the dealer to have it done.
During the process I noticed a few worn and damaged parts that will need replacing some of which I can live with until the finances allow.
The first thing I noticed was a missing bolt on the RH exhaust heat shield and the front shield bolting point had sheered off. I replaced the LH shield last year for a similar reason but the RH side is worse.
RH Exhaust Heat Sheild
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36884604815_2266670cbb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YcneYk)
The Upper Fairing has two damaged bolting locations
One underneath the RH side of the headlight where the middle fairing inner panel locates. This may have happened during the last fork seal replacement about three years ago as the middle fairing would have been removed at that time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/36884605015_cb827edd07_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ycnf2M)
The second is where the RH Middle fairing locates with the upper fairing just below the air vent. This might have happened when the bike fell to right four years ago which also broke the RH mirror cover.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36713563632_d8fedf2f5b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XWfBoq)
The Middle Fairing Inner Cover on the RH side has a seized bolt (bolts to Middle fairing) and the clip at the bottom refused to come out as well
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4412/36884604555_75a6b959fd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YcneTR)
All the plastic is now off and put in the garden shed.
Next up is the Radiator which I will do later.
So far I have checked the hoses and all seem ok. There are no visible signs of coolant loss and the coolant overflow is at the low level. Before I go further I will run the motor until it reaches operating temp and see if there's any coolant leaks. Hope not.
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When I took Heather Down to the Hospital yesterday I called into Micks Motorcycles http://micksmotorcyclesgawler.com.au/ (http://micksmotorcyclesgawler.com.au/) for a price on getting the timing belt changed over.
With the bike stripped down it should only take about an hour so a $100 should cover it with me supplying parts. I asked about doing the fork seals as well and replacing the OEM springs with supplied progressive ones and that'll come to $300 at the most. Oh!! nearly forgot........Honda coolant $11 a litre......need some of that too.
I'll order the parts today hopefully be back on the road by the middle of Feb or earlier.
While there I dropped off an Ozstoc Card and mentioned the rally. They never had any Sts but plenty of 'wings out the back. Might get this wrong but a Yamaha (is it FJR?) and a Kawasaki (is it1400GTR?) both grey and looking similar to the 1300 from the front.
I've also re-routed the wiring for the driving lights in readiness for the police light brackets later on in the year.
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Yamaha FJR1300 and Kawasaki GTR1400 are popular. More on the sport that touring side compared to the ST1300. Stripping the bike down takes to longest in doing the timing belt, but well worth doing what you can while it is undressed...
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I had a delay in ordering parts but I did order some yesterday.
This morning I received an e-mail thanking me for the order and that my parts have been shipped on the 19th of January .........hey........wait a minute......read that again......yes the 19th....... Today is the 17th. ok, does that mean my parts will get here before they've been sent?.......Think not. Anyone else think that's a bit weird or what?
Prices are $US in our money it came to about $175
Thank you for purchasing with discounthondaparts.
Your order reference number is: 1602915.
Date shipped:1/19/2013
Shipping method:USPS Priority Mail
BILLING INFORMATION:
Alan Williams
Wright Street
Peterborough So 5422 Australia
SHIPPING INFORMATION:
Alan Williams
Wright Street
Peterborough 5422 Australia
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Part Number: 19505-MT3-000
Description: HOSE B, WATER for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.45
Total Cost: $11.45
Part Number: 19504-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, L. THERMOSTAT for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $17.23
Total Cost: $17.23
Part Number: 19506-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, R. THERMOSTAT for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $14.50
Total Cost: $14.50
Part Number: 19503-MT3-000
Description: HOSE, RADIATOR for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $11.62
Total Cost: $11.62
Part Number: 91307-MB0-003
Description: O-RING (54X2) for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $1.80
Total Cost: $1.80
Part Number: 50520-MT3-601
Description: SPRING, MAIN STAND for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $7.88
Total Cost: $7.88
Part Number: 19045-MY3-621
Description: CAP, RADIATOR for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $23.61
Total Cost: $23.61
Part Number: 19300-MG9-000
Description: THERMOSTAT for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $28.67
Total Cost: $28.67
Part Number: 90657-SB0-003
Description: CLIP, SPLASH SHIELD for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 2
Shipped Quantity: 2
Unit Price: $2.75
Total Cost: $5.50
Part Number: 90651-MT3-000
Description: CLIP for 1999 Honda ST1100A
Order Quantity: 1
Shipped Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $1.42
Total Cost: $1.42
ORDER TOTALS:
Item Total: $123.68
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $54.95
Order Total: $178.63
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:thumbsup :thumbsup
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This morning I received an e-mail thanking me for the order and that my parts have been shipped on the 19th of January .........hey........wait a minute......read that again......yes the 19th....... Today is the 17th. ok, does that mean my parts will get here before they've been sent?.......Think not. Anyone else think that's a bit weird or what?
The USA is in a different time zone. That explains it. ::) :p
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I ordered a Torque wrench last week and it arrived this morning.
Yep!!! I've decide to do the belt change over myself.......still waiting for the cooling system parts to arrive before I can remove the old parts.
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If you follow the procedures in the manual it is relatively straight forward. AS with doing the valves, I triple check that all the markings are exactly as they should be before putting everything back together.
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With the near arrival of my parts this afternoon I've drained the cooling system, removed the radiator and loosened all the bolts so I can removing the timing belt cover in the morning and get the belt changed over as well...so that's tomorrows task.
Hoses weren't that easy to get off the radiator and two clamps on the thermostat side need replacing.
Will add a pic or two after the belt is done.
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:thumbsup
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This morning at the not so bright and early time (for me) of 9:30 am I started the process for the timing belt change over.
The following link; https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54109647/ST1100%20Timing%20Belt.mht (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/54109647/ST1100%20Timing%20Belt.mht) certainly helped with getting the centre cover off and doing it wasn't has hard as expected. I think I had more trouble getting the cover out of the frame.
Covers offs and old belt waiting to come off. I lined up timing marks at this point and then removed the LH retaining plate. Needless to say that timing was checked everytime I did something (just in case).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/36802228333_ae1d8ba32f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y563ja)
I took some pics of the timing marks on the driven cam gears and drive gear but as luck would have it they are slightly out of focus. Finding the timing punch dot on the drive gear was assisted with the use of a torch. I just could see that tiny dot.
I tripple checked everything before I removed the belt. The hardest part was getting the old belt out from under the drive gear (about 15mins). Probably would have been easier with the clutch cover removed or the motor on a bench but I didn't want to go there. Eventually it came out and I ended up with this
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37214242400_c05840b675_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGuHJY)
I checked the belt condition and it looked hardly worn. I suppose it could have lasted another 50,000kms or another 10kms.....who knows.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/37214242240_19b3a1c56e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGuHGd)
All timing marks still in order so I took the old belt inside and bought the new one out. (hate mix them up) The new belt was easier to get in under the drive gear so I just left the belt roughly in line with all the gears and left it to go down the shop. About an hour later I started to put the belt on properly as instructed and ended up having to adjust the belt on the cam gears 1 tooth On the RH and two on the LH. While I was doing this the LH cam moved slighly so I had to start all over again after aligning the timing mark. The next hardest part was getting the new belt to slide on to the water pump pulley but eventually I got it right.
Timing still aligned up ok so spun the motor a few times to sit the belt in properly as written in the manual. Replaced the plate on the LH cam gear, loosened the tension bolt, turn the motor a couple more times, tighten the tension bolt and then notice there's more about installing a new belt on another page so I had to go and print that out.
Here we go again, loosen tension bolt, a couple more turns, make sure it all lines up again, turn motor until the (almost invisible) dot is three teeth past the timing mark and and then tighten tension bolt. One more check to make sure timing marks are ligned up and the putting back together begins.
This centre cover went back in past the drive gear easier than expected but getting the bolt holes to line up wasn't
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/36762598144_3841538649_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y1zVD3)
The rest of the cam covers on, spark plugs and leads reinstalled.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/36762599644_041c20264a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y1zW5U)
Now ready for the next stage. Replace coolant hoses and and thermostat which means removing carbs as part of the process.
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Good job :thumbsup
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:thumbsup :thumbsup :beer :beer
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This morning the thermostat housing was removed and cleaned up. looks almost new now......
The old thermostat was in the closed position, and I've heard that stay open if they fail, but there's a new one in there now. First time I've had a thermostat locate in a specific position. That's all put back together except for tightening the bolts.
This afternoon it's operation carb removal.
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May I suggest a run first, so that if it fails later, you dont have to pull the bike fully apart to fault find.
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May I suggest a run first, so that if it fails later, you dont have to pull the bike fully apart to fault find.
the temp guage suggested the thermostat may have been faulty....may not be opening fully which would give the same indication.
Anyway it's been replaced with a new one.
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As an update......the carbs are off and all but the elbows to remove. No rush. But coolant hose on LH bank was close to bursting at the elbow joint, so doing timing belt and cooling system at the same time paid off.
Three of the screws on the carb insulator joints below the carbs were all visible (LH and rear RH). The RH front was very elusive. Ended up getting my little led torch and shining it in the space where the screw should have been. Middle of the day and it looked darker than a moonless night in that little space.
A lot of red dust from my time at Karratha around my carbs so all the linkages need TLC as well.
All these little extras:
Carb insulators
O rings elbow
elbows (these are prone to cracking so better to replace now rather than later)
elbow clamps
By pass hose
coolant overflow hose
Fuel filter
are in my next order, so the bike sits for a couple more weeks.
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Nice work Alan, and saving a bag of gold doing it yourself.
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Nice work Alan, and saving a bag of gold doing it yourself.
I might have saved a little and I've exercised some brain cells that I'd forgotten I had as well.
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Not much more I can do to the bike until I get my next order but I have put the thermostat back in place and put the new hoses on that. I'll flush the radiator later and refit that tomorrow.
I've added the coolant overflow bottle on to the list of things to do as well and that can be done anytime.
How easy do the carbs remount with the new insulator rubbers?
Here's the old/new hoses showing the Elbow end. Hose in top of picture is the RH side which isn't quite as bad as the LH one.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/37213815670_b47b0b12fe_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGswTy)
There's no eveidence of the elbows being cracked but the're getting replaced
RH
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/37440678132_249c0aacd4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z3vgcj)
LH
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/37213814960_73bff925c3_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGswFj)
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Hi Alan,
I put some (very lightly) rubber grease on the insulators prior to putting the carb's back on. I stood on the nearside (left) and sat the carb tubes JUST into the insulators and then pushed down on the offside bank and they went in with a little force.
I have two (one expensive and one not so expensive) snail type syncro's meters that will help you tune your carb's, if you need them, just PM your address and they will be on their way.
I did my insulators and clamps, spark plugs, air filter, carb sync what a huge difference, now getting easy riding 5.05 L/100km.
Cheers
Dave
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Thanks Abe,
I was going to get the carb balance done at the same time as my new front springs and seals.
The bike hasn't run as good as it was before I had my first and only carb balance done two years ago. Not sure what they did but it's all ways sounded a little off since then.
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No problems, I can bring the sync's down there in March and we can have a "workshop" on your bike????.
It's not that hard to do BUT you need to read and understand first. (not saying you don't already)
Just changed the fork oil (removed drained, flushed, cleaned) on mine to Castrol 10W and adjusted the oil level and boy oh boy what a huge difference for the better. (new tyres as well)
Cheers
Dave
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Hi Abe, If you bring your syncro meter we could turn Middleton into a maintenance Weekend.
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Well That was an exciting few hours.
It Took 20 mins to get the radiator out of the bike and something like two hours plus to get it back in.
The LH bolt retaining didn't want to go in. must have been pure luck when the thread caught hold an turned enough to hold the radiator while I put the RH bolt in.
Then the hose from the thernostat to the radiator didn't want to slide onto the inlet tube.
So I let it sit all afternoon until the temp cooled down and had another go. Removed the hose completly and coated both hose and fittings with Vaseline again just enough for the hose to slide home where it should be. Almost forgot one of the clamps ((seniors moment)another one). Double checked that all the clamps were tight and then removed the coolant bottle and drained that. Flushed that out and that's ready to go back in when next order arrives.
So the bike sits until then.
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On Friday morning I took a few leisurely hours and replaced the upper fairing and (cleaning as I go) all the other bits that go with it and making sure the driving light wiring made it into the mirror housings ok for the upcoming HID upgrade.
Heather found these for me a couple weeks ago. One of the screen mounting nuts fell out and needed replacing. I was going to order the same in black but Heather beat me to it and ordered blue.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SCREEN-BOLT-KIT-HONDA-ST1100-PAN-EUROPEAN-89-02-5-BOLT-BLUE-ALUMINIUM-/301621345346?epid=706898923&hash=item463a087c42:g:qPgAAOxyjP1R0wxY (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SCREEN-BOLT-KIT-HONDA-ST1100-PAN-EUROPEAN-89-02-5-BOLT-BLUE-ALUMINIUM-/301621345346?epid=706898923&hash=item463a087c42:g:qPgAAOxyjP1R0wxY)
Took this to show bike in her current state and tried to get pics of bolts in the screen but camera failed to focus enough.....(operator error) another time maybe.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/36802414313_53b0dce01e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y56ZAH)
I could have put the lower panels on as well but leaving them off will make changing the RH heat sheild and bolts on both sides a little easier.
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If your up to fitting the lower panels, do you want me to send the one I have here to you or can you wait till I come over for the Nat rally?
:bl11
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If your up to fitting the lower panels, do you want me to send the one I have here to you or can you wait till I come over for the Nat rally?
:bl11
It's ok Steve, and thanks for the thought. I can wait a few more weeks.........it doesn't take to much to change them over.
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I should have call this thread something other than timing belt change over. As it's now grown to cooling sytem, exhaust sheild and screen bolts....well, whatever I have just ordered the rest of my parts this morning.
Suppose I can't complain $500 in 6.5 years or aound $75 a year. That's for two parts orders and includes new iridium plugs which I also ordered this morning from the UK.
Tomorrow we're going over by car to do shopping and getting the new coolant for the bike while there.......as there's nothing suitable for a bike where I live
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Title edited... :grin :grin :grin :grin
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Title edited... :grin :grin :grin :grin
Thanks Brock.........that works
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My favourite mechanic (SAAZ) is coming over next Tuesday to change the timing belt on my 2002 ST1100P (200,160 km).
I don't have a lift so I'll repeat what we did last time for my 2000 ST1100P. Reverse it up a ramp and onto my 8'x4' steel box trailer. Put it on the centre stand with the front wheel hanging over the tailgate.
Not only does this make it easier to work on but also the bike is ready to be transported to a real mechanic if something goes wrong.
Sorry SAAZ, couldn't resist it.
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No offence, just means I don't have to be too careful as there is a backup plan :beer
My favourite mechanic (SAAZ) is coming over next Tuesday to change the timing belt on my 2002 ST1100P (200,160 km).
I don't have a lift so I'll repeat what we did last time for my 2000 ST1100P. Reverse it up a ramp and onto my 8'x4' steel box trailer. Put it on the centre stand with the front wheel hanging over the tailgate.
Not only does this make it easier to work on but also the bike is ready to be transported to a real mechanic if something goes wrong.
Sorry SAAZ, couldn't resist it.
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Whilst waiting for my mysteriously shipped to Belgium parts to arrive a couple items ordered from e-bay arrived earlier than expected.
Blue screen bolts arrived a couple weeks ago and fitted while waiting for my parts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37441322252_b4b1ae8705_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z3yyEQ)
Hand Grips arrived this morning.......took two weeks from Hong Kong. I think I put them the wrong way around, doesn't matter as I need to add some glue anyway. Bar ends might need a touch as well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37472087951_10c6ba13cb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Z6hfeV)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/23620322818_c43d00fa2e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BZfk49)
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After the delivery of my parts this morning I made a start on getting the my 1100 back together. Sorry, no pics for the following.
The RH exhaust heat shield has been replaced along with new bolts on both shields.
Coolant overflow hose replaced.
New fuel filter installed
New coolant bottle ordered as the old one was to brittle. The bottle was ordered from the dealer in Port Augusta where I will have drive the 125 kms to get it next week. I planned to replace the bottle in the near future and I was hoping it would be ok 'til then.
The other little by-pass hose from the thermostat to the water pipe was also done.
New elbows fitted in the valley plus new hose clamps in there as well.
New Carb insulators installed.
Lubricated throttle linkages as well.
Went to refit the carbs but wasn't sure if I had the carb drains fitted to the right hose..........back to the manual........had to swap hoses........(s**t happens) so that done but while doing it the retaining clip slid down the hose out of sight. So had to pull carbs out again and get Heather to get in there get the clip.
So the hose is back on and clipped, carbs in place ready to be pushed home. Had to loosen two of the clamp screws a little before the carbs would seat properly. That's all good........going better than I hoped. Tighten up three clamps but the fourth was a no go. Turns out I loosened it off too much and the nut and screw fell out of position.
Talk about trial and error..........lol.......undo the other three clamps, pull carbs off again and replace screw and nut in carb clamp. Refit drain hose and sit carbs in ready for later.
Tomorrows problem that one.
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Been there, done that with things not going strictly to plan. Good for character building so they so, but it is a right royal pain at the time :thumb
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Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks
Turtle
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If you follow the timing belt change procedure in the Haynes manual exactly, the job is not that hard. Taking all the bodywork off and the radiator takes the most time.
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Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks
Turtle
Essential replacement costs for parts including shipping for two orders from the US was $430.........Had I made only one order I would have saved an extra $50 shipping cost.
On top of that I ordered reserve tank (coolant bottle) locally for $60 as I need the part next week and another $40 for Iridium plugs from the UK which I have yet to fit.
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If you follow the timing belt change procedure in the Haynes manual exactly, the job is not that hard. Taking all the bodywork off and the radiator takes the most time.
I just used the Honda manual for reference........except for clutch cover removal.
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Alan thanks for this write up and pics, I'm going to be doing the same work to mine in the next few weeks
Turtle
it is a good read, thanks :runyay
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I've gone as far as I can go as I need to wait for the coolant overflow bottle before I can put the rest of the plastic back on. So LH side is done apart from the side cover.
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I got brave this afternoon and started the bike after adding the coolant. Thought I'd better do that now before I forgot.
Went to start the bike, no go......I didn't think it would start after 3 months but gave it ago. Battery from Heather's bike should do it.......jumper leads on.....still no go.........mmmm!!!!.......kill switch was off........well the motor turned over........that's a start. Could see the fuel pumping into the new filter then a half hearted attempt at running very roughly.
Choke off..tried again......it ran a bit better, sort of.......then Heather said it's leaking from there. Key off........I knew what she meant as I hadn't replaced the radiator cap just in case I need to add more coolant. Well I topped the coolant, replaced the cap and the bottle I mixed the coolant in came in handy to put the overflow hose into plus some spare coolant.
Then there was a no go on the start........just turning over like no spark.......don't remember doing anything to the leads or coils. Let it sit for a minute or two while I went inside for a drink.
Five minutes later........it finally coughed and spluttered back into some sort of life. It's running don't stop it.......throttle lock on at just above idle will do. Bit loud; I thought that knocking sound......thinking.....did I get the timing wrong ....... it looked ok before I put the cover back on......is one side out a little. On the RH side that knocking sound.........is it the clutch or the gearing behind it. Walked around the other side of the bike......clutch in.....into first.....clutch out......knocking sound reduced.......repeated that process a couple times .........Back to neutral and let the motor run to charge the battery.
Back around the other side of the bike, coolant in bottle had risen a little and I could see a couple air bubbles......Let it run for about another 10 minutes, the fan cut in/out a few times so that still works ok. No visible coolant leaks while under pressure which I guess is a good sign.
Stopped and started the motor a couple times but it could do with a carb balance in the near future.......so I'll get a new air cleaner( I have the plugs) and book it in. Motor seems to rev freely up to 5,000 rpm and idles at 1200 rpm on the tacho.......normal for mine but louder than usual but maybe 'cause most of the the fairing is off.
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On the 24th I noticed a slight misfire coming from what sounded like no. 3 cylinder. Pulled the plugs as it was running to confirm and no. 3 sounded like it. Swapped the plugs over on that side and no change. I also heard what sounded like air being sucked in. Stopped the motor and noticed the no. 3 carb insulator clamp was loose. Tightened that up and started motor again. Air leak gone, but misfire still there. Packed up for the day and decided to leave it 'til the next day.
Well, the next day on the 25th it rained on and off for half the day so left it until the 26th. Between times though I tossed a few ideas around (thanks to Saaz and a couple guys on the phoenix site as well) as to what might cause it. The manual didn't seem to cover this type of misfire either.
Came to the conclusion it was related to the work I'd done. Thinking also that sometimes the least thing can cause the most grief. Was it possible that one carb didn't seat properly causing to much air into one cylinder or did I get a minor fuel blockage. Before I went further, I rechecked the carb clamps; back two were tight. The front two, the most difficult to see need a turn or two on the bolts. Next I pulled the leads off the plugs, pushed each one in towards the coils, the rest of the leads looked ok so replaced them back on the plugs and made sure they seated correctly.
Organised my temporary coolant bottle and put overflow tube in it.
I have no idea exactly what caused the misfire, nor how I fixed it but after starting up again it was gone. Started up first time, no choke, cold motor and about 6-800 rpm. Let it idle and waited for temp gauge to get to normal for the bike and revved motor a few times up to 5000 rpm. Still needs a carb balance though.
Next problem......Coolant Bottle.......on back order so maybe two weeks before I will get it. Coming in from Japan so it'll be at least that before I can but it back together.
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Alan do you need a carby sync & instructions (Turtle just used it on his), if so I can post mine to you and get it back at Ebor??
Just PM me if so.
Cheers
Dave
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Alan it was posted on Thursday express post (I have tracking number if required)
Good luck.
Thanks for your input Turtle
Cheers
Dave
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Don't think it'll be so quick.....not this weekend......
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I have 2 options for doing a synch if you need it (carbtune and the vacuum one).
If you still have the fuel cutoff valve fitted it can take a while to start up, as there has to be sufficient vacuum to allow the fuel from the pump to get through, which happens slowly when just cranking the bike over. Can take a while just turning the bike over.
Applying vacuum by sucking on the hose to the fuel cutoff valve can allow enough fuel through to start the bike after turning the ignition on and off a few times. Removing the vacuum fuel cutoff valves is the other way to do it.
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Alan it was posted on Thursday express post (I have tracking number if required)
Good luck.
Thanks for your input Turtle
Cheers
Dave
Arrived in mail today sometime while we were out.
Was going to leave it until tomorrow to sort the carb balance out but had enough daylight left so did it.
I took the readings before I adjusted anything
Number 2 & 4 both read 4.5 on the scale.
Number 1 was 5
Number 3 was way out at 7
Adjusting number three down raised the readings on 4 up to nearly 6
Slight tweak on number 2 to equalise that one with number 4.
With minor adjustments on 1 and 3 they are all now reading 6.
I'll recheck tomorrow before I put the air cleaner back together.
Can't be any worse than before but it certainly sounds a lot better.
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Glad it got there OK.
No doubt you know this:-
No. 4 is the constant (if everything being right, internally) non adjustable, and every other carby should be calibrated to it (No. 4). It will take, time, adjustment, time, adjust, coffee, adjustment, time to get it right. I'm in no rush for the sync meter, so take your time (I do have a special spare).
If you find something in the instructions that needs attention just let me know so the next Ozstoc user can benefit from our learning.
Look forward to reading your results.
Cheers
Dave
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+1 what Abe said. No 4 is the fixed one, all others adjust to it individually. It might take a few iterations to get it close, and make sure you blip the throttle in between adjustments to make sure that the linkage is not affected by adjusting the screw. Sounds like 3 was way out, but once that is fixed the others get in on the act. I have the flow meter and the carbtunes, and each gets to the same point, the flow meter probably easier to use as the carbtune is too accurate so can make you frustrated with not being exactly right.
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The readings I got first up sort of confirm my suspicions that the carb tune wasn't done correctly by the bike shop last time.
Even Heather reckons it sounds better from what she could hear from inside.
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Yesterday I managed to get the carb balance sorted but in the process I unknowingly lost the clip that secures the hose underneath the air cleaner.
The hose marked with a red star and the clip do not appear in any of the carb related and air cleaner parts list. It's not a big issue as I can get another clip/clamp to suit.
My local Honda dealer has no idea either.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/36802812853_caa0d47950_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Y59356)
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Honda uses those spring circlips that have two lugs that squeeze together to expand before slipping over the hose.
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Honda uses those spring circlips that have two lugs that squeeze together to expand before slipping over the hose.
I used the clip that came off the coolant overflow hose. I ordered a new clip for the new coolant bottle which is the only items I need before I can put the bike back together.
It's just strange that clip and the hose aren't mentioned in the parts list.
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Honda uses those spring circlips that have two lugs that squeeze together to expand before slipping over the hose.
I used the clip that came off the coolant overflow hose. I ordered a new clip for the new coolant bottle which is the only items I need before I can put the bike back together.
It's just strange that clip and the hose aren't mentioned in the parts list.
Further info received from the phoenix site places the breather hose in the water pump section.........go figure.
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Not to long now.........Bike shop rang this morning saying part had arrived. Got them to send it via Auspost so coolant bottle should arrive Monday as they posted today.
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Not to long now.........Bike shop rang this morning saying part had arrived. Got them to send it via Auspost so coolant bottle should arrive Monday as they posted today.
It's all done. Ready to go back on the road when it's registered (online transaction) on Wednesday. Just need to check tyre pressures and she's ready to roll.
I haven't refitted the dash shelf as yet. I've mounted a twin 12 volt power outlet and waiting on the 15amp wire and fuse to arrive.
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any chance of borrowing the carby balance tool?
Have not used one or seen one before, so will need instructions on how to use. Stuck here in Whyalla and nearest help line is Adelaide, so need to help myself.
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Bill read up on Allan's post heaps of info on coolant hose change and parts used and timing belt
Turtle
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Back to all things timing belt, I am looking at doing mine in the next 6 months as well replacing coolant and radiator hoses. I need to know what gaskets and seals I will need when I do the change. Not that keen on ordering a complete gasket kit as they tend to be a bit pricey. At minimum I will need the timing cover gasket and possibly a new water pump seal.
Can anyone who has done a belt change help?
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I had already replaced the radiator hoses, so for the timing belt I just did the belt. No other seals, gaskets etc needed. The timing cover gasket is just compressible rubber that can the cleaned up and reused. I did my belt at 150,000kms, 60,000kms ago.
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How many k's on the bike as new belt not needed until 150,000kms. My old belt looked like new when I removed it.
at 150,000 kms I never had any issues with coolant leaks or anything so I left the water pump in place (if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....sort of thing).
The timing belt and cam drive covers are just plastic and mine never had gaskets. It's a dry environment so no need. Unless you intend to check valve clearances there's no need to remove the rocker covers either.
If you're replacing hoses then you'll need to remove the carbs to gain access to the hose clamps. Check that the two little elbows between the inlet ports aren't cracked, mine were ok but I put new ones in. I put new carb insulators in as after 14 years the old ones had gone hard.
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My bike is a 2002 Ex police bike and it just hitting 145,000 K's. I know that a belt change is recommended at 150,000 so that is why I am preparing to change my belt. Hoping I can change to two radiator hoses without disturbing the carbs as I don't have the equipment to retune them. As it is only 12 years old am hoping that all the rubber hoses are in good condition.
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My bike is a 2002 Ex police bike and it just hitting 145,000 K's. I know that a belt change is recommended at 150,000 so that is why I am preparing to change my belt. Hoping I can change to two radiator hoses without disturbing the carbs as I don't have the equipment to retune them. As it is only 12 years old am hoping that all the rubber hoses are in good condition.
My original OEM hoses after 14 years compared to the new ones.......One was close to failing.
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=2977.msg34382#msg34382 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=2977.msg34382#msg34382)
As for the tune up.......I never had anything either but the right tool was offered via Abe.
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basadia I have sent you a PM