OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Seats & Windscreen Modifications ST1100 => Topic started by: saaz on October 04, 2011, 02:09:44 PM
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This happened to me, and tackleberry has the same problem. Whoever did the dual seat conversion must not have clipped the seat cable in properly. Once clicked in it should not come out. I folled these instructions and it worked. Other ideas were to cut a hole through the seat, if you find that easier :)
just this week we'd a similar situation on the German ST Forum, it is possible, but you'll might need the help of another person around.
- remove panniers
- remove the lower bolts holding the side panels
- lift the rear of the seat on one side to pry out the plastic dowels holding the upper rear of the side panels (this is where the second person might come handy; maybe a tire-bar, large screwdriver or any other kind of lever is needed)
- grab the lower edge of the side panel and bend it outwards to get the clearance to unlatch it first on the rear and then out the lower front fairing, then fiddle it out below the front part of the seat (take care to not brake off the noses clipping into the rubber eyes in the frame
- now remove the two M6 bolts holding the long sideparts of the tailcone
- remove the 4 hex-bolt holding the passenger rails on the cross-frame
- again pry up the rear sides of the seat to loose the two bolts holding the passenger rails underneath it so you can rotate them out to the side (IMO no need to remove them bolts completely)
- pry out the two side parts of the tail-piece
- stand behind taillight, grap tail-cone on the sides and lift it up as possible; maybe needed to remove the 4 rubber grommets in there so you can slide it backwards over the 4 studs poking up from the cross-frame underneath
- pull the tail-piece backwards for aprox 2~3" and then first disconnect the connector of the taillights
Once you get that tail-piece off it should be easy to poke underneath the saddle with a flashlight and unlatch the lock with something like your fingers or a tool like a screwdriver or a piece of welding-wire.
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Or trade the bike in!
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Saaz to get mine off I actually found it easier to remove the whole duck tail by undoing the four bolts above the tail light, and then the two near the key lock for the seat , and the opposite side. With a little care, it then removes from the bike and opens up the whole rear compartment sand sub-frame assembly. Made it easier to see what room I actually have under there also around the vacuum pump for the cruise etc. The side panels have to be treated carefully when removing them with the seat in place, but it can be done.
From the rear I could then get a spanner on the bolt and undo the nut holding the lock assembly on and remove it. Found the cable had worked itself out of the locking mechanism the night before FR#17 and that's what locked it.
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I will have to take off the rear tail as well before too long, as my left rear subframe has cracked right through, unles I can think of an easier fix.
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John, I have a welder.
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It may come to that as the best fix with some reinforcing around the crack. I haven't mentioned how well retirement has treated you, looking a lot younger :)
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Don't you like Christopher? How about Freddie?
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:dred11
just found my seats stuck,, glad I found this topic coz I was about to to cut a hole under the mudguard to get to the lock.. I swap my seat < n > from solo so only have me to blame.. will try to fix it wivout breakin N E fing..
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:dred11 :runyay Thanx for all the advice above,, today I removed the whole Tail assembly as per advice above, without any hassle. I was able to unlatch the seat, fit the cable back into the holder. :thumbs and reassemble everything. I left my topbox off , just for a change... :thumbs :dred11
so glad I didnt act on my first thought of cutting into the guard :fp
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Glad to see you got an advantage from the blundering we did to get the issue solved John. The great thing about the forum when people put up their little solutions to save somebody else from botching the job also.
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This happened to me, and tackleberry has the same problem. Whoever did the dual seat conversion must not have clipped the seat cable in properly. Once clicked in it should not come out. I folled these instructions and it worked. Other ideas were to cut a hole through the seat, if you find that easier :)
just this week we'd a similar situation on the German ST Forum, it is possible, but you'll might need the help of another person around.
- remove panniers
- remove the lower bolts holding the side panels
- lift the rear of the seat on one side to pry out the plastic dowels holding the upper rear of the side panels (this is where the second person might come handy; maybe a tire-bar, large screwdriver or any other kind of lever is needed)
- grab the lower edge of the side panel and bend it outwards to get the clearance to unlatch it first on the rear and then out the lower front fairing, then fiddle it out below the front part of the seat (take care to not brake off the noses clipping into the rubber eyes in the frame
- now remove the two M6 bolts holding the long sideparts of the tailcone
- remove the 4 hex-bolt holding the passenger rails on the cross-frame
- again pry up the rear sides of the seat to loose the two bolts holding the passenger rails underneath it so you can rotate them out to the side (IMO no need to remove them bolts completely)
- pry out the two side parts of the tail-piece
- stand behind taillight, grap tail-cone on the sides and lift it up as possible; maybe needed to remove the 4 rubber grommets in there so you can slide it backwards over the 4 studs poking up from the cross-frame underneath
- pull the tail-piece backwards for aprox 2~3" and then first disconnect the connector of the taillights
Once you get that tail-piece off it should be easy to poke underneath the saddle with a flashlight and unlatch the lock with something like your fingers or a tool like a screwdriver or a piece of welding-wire.
crazy times :||||