Author Topic: Wire Crimp (terminals) tools and wire. (Read 22896 times)

Brock · « **on:** October 01, 2012, 09:24:56 AM »

Seeing folk are starting to do their own wiring, its time to put a few hints and how to dos up. And do nots.

Do get a good crimping tool for red yellow and blue crimps. Jaycar has some good ones but they arent cheap

A set of these cat TH1829 are suitable (easily changeable Jaws)

Or these (my prefered) as these have Quick interchangeable jaws for many jobs cat TH2000

Do not use anything like these, the performance is less than poor

New pic soon

Brock · « **Reply #1 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:32:44 AM »

To do a good wiring job, good terminals are needed, not the realy cheap jobs as they dont crimp properly.

The Narva range are good. I prefer to use the pre insulated terminals, or in some cases even the ones with the heat shrink insulation, though these dont have a large range.

Uninsulated crimps can be used, and in some situations are preferred. These will need a heat shrink sleeve fitted. Uninsulated crimps use a different tool than insulated something like this is good for the plug terminals.

saaz · « **Reply #2 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:36:12 AM »

Brock, what is your preferred wire stripper? I use that last tool to do it, as at least it can do that. I use the first crimper, and it works far better to give consistent good crimps. I have an old uninsulated crimp tool that my father had.

Brock · « **Reply #3 on:** October 01, 2012, 10:14:51 AM »

For stripping, I use a knife with a not too sharp blade. It only has to cut the insulation not the wire, I use a thumb nail to remove the sleeve. For aircraft wiring I use a proper stripping tool, though some of those are not so great.

Biggles · « **Reply #4 on:** October 01, 2012, 01:34:41 PM »

I have these from ALDI:

They break all Brock's rules, but I find they work for me.
The stripping function is not left-hander friendly, but does the job neatly.
The range of crimping slots covers my needs.
It also cuts the wire (but always leaves one strand uncut- go figure). :)

Brock · « **Reply #5 on:** October 01, 2012, 07:53:39 PM »

An example of common crimps and one not so common, a socket from a 110 plug

Brock · « **Reply #6 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:06:45 PM »

How to crimp a wire to an insulated faston connector

Strip the wire back 7mm, and give the wire a bit of a twist to tighten the lie. Take note of the crimper jaws, some are designed to have parts that crimp the wire into the terminal and the tail of the crimp on to the insulation to support the wire. These jaws are polarised for this task.

Its sometimes easier to secure the crimp in the crimper jaws

note the metal shoulder inside the crimp, these are the preferred type.

Brock · « **Reply #7 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:10:27 PM »

The crimp.

The finished job

Brock · « **Reply #8 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:14:15 PM »

Uninsulated faston, the type used in plugs, and relay sockets, strip back 7mm

in the crimping tool

Finished product

Brock · « **Reply #9 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:17:52 PM »

110 Plug pin, strip wire 5mm. These are the plug type used all over the bike. I would suggest that 3 mm diameter wire would be the maximum for these pins, as the crimp action wont work properly on larger, 4mm may work at a pinch 5mm no. 16 gauge aircraft wire will fit, as the insulation is thinner.

Brock · « **Reply #10 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:24:01 PM »

Un-insulated terminals, as used on battery connections, strip back 7 - 8 mm

Brock · « **Reply #11 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:28:52 PM »

One tool, three jaw sets

The un-insulated terminals could be done with this tool, this tool also does the Anderson plugs used in the Jumper lead mod

My crimp tool kit, also does coax plugs for TV and CB radios and telephone connectors

JohnoJ · « **Reply #12 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:51:14 PM »

Explains everything. Once crimp you should also tug on the wire to give one final check.

Brock · « **Reply #13 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:01:33 PM »

No need to tug on those ones, using the right wire, crimp and tool means a good job every time.

Tipsy · « **Reply #14 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:28:18 PM »

py
Thats bloody good Brock , Where can one get a crimp kit like that
(trade price would be nice)

Tipsy

Brock · « **Reply #15 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:45:57 PM »

Think I got everything from Jaycar, except for the Anderson Plug crimping tool, got that on the net from www.agwholesalers.com.au

Tipsy · « **Reply #16 on:** October 01, 2012, 09:50:20 PM »

py

Thanks Mate

Tipsy

Diesel · « **Reply #17 on:** October 02, 2012, 10:53:41 AM »

Great post thanks Guru. Looking forward to your 'heat shrinking' post next.

Cheers, Diesel

Brock · « **Reply #18 on:** October 02, 2012, 12:03:18 PM »

Heat shrinking is reasonably easy, just gotta watch the heat. Only want shrunk sleeving, not burning wiring.

saaz · « **Reply #19 on:** October 02, 2012, 12:36:30 PM »

The hardest thing about heat shrinking is remembering to put the heat shrink tube on the wire before putting on the connectors

A larger size heat shrink tube can still work sometimes.

Abe · « **Reply #20 on:** October 03, 2012, 09:40:20 AM »

I've had this Iroda 120 soldering and heat shrink iron for several years now and love it. There's no need for extension cords, though it's for the smaller jobs, not battery terminals.

http://www.pro-iroda.com/pro120.htm

Vega
Dave

Brock · « **Reply #21 on:** October 09, 2012, 07:08:40 PM »

Woo Hoo, Hydraulic crimper arrived

saaz · « **Reply #22 on:** October 09, 2012, 07:11:56 PM »

I got mine last week.Impressive bit of gear!

Brock · « **Reply #23 on:** October 09, 2012, 07:36:16 PM »

Did a test crimp, on a wire that was a little small for the crimp. Excellent result....

saaz · « **Reply #24 on:** October 09, 2012, 07:41:11 PM »

I think 8 tonne crimping should be the punishment from now on....unfortunately I have done all those crimps in the last week so have to look around for something to crimp...

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Author Topic: Wire Crimp (terminals) tools and wire. (Read 22896 times)