police switch4

[Abe]

I want to use switch 4 to run leds lights, but I don't want to use the LEDs from the high beam feed wire.

I have quickly tried to find the switch wires on the bike and using the diagrams, no luck, hence question.

My bike never made it into the NSWPOL but has the wire loom, the 6 and 9 male plugs (IN THE TAIL) have constant feed.

The LEDs will be DRL's.

So if I have low beam on, I can press switch 4 and turn on the LEDs, is what I'm after.

Any assistance would be appreciated, cheers.

[Hendo]

Abe,

I dont know the 1300, but if its the same as the 1100 switch 4 leads to the Orange and Black with Blue trace wires in the 9 pin connector. If the current drain is small for the LEDs you could directly wire from the output of the low beam relay ( White with Black trace). Id probably put a fuse in that line as well just a bit larger amperage than the LED's draw. A better way of course would be through another relay. If you want a quick circuit diagram let me know.

This all depends on the 1300 being the same as the 1100 wiring wise.

I wonder were Brock is, he is usually the whip at these questions.


Hendo

[Brock]

using the wiring diagram below, you need to wire in to pins 2 & 3 1 & 2 to use switch 4. Pick off a feed from the high beam on the head light, (you can use one of the wires from the beacon cluster to run it down the back, {the ones with the bullet connectors}). Use sw4 to control the drive light relay as per normal .





https://dl.dropbox.com/u/53770433/Police%20Switch%20circuit.pdf

[Abe]

Bloody fantastic Brock, thanks for that. 

[Neale]

How good is this stuff. Gold.

[Brock]

Abe, I could even make a patch adapter cable with relay with relay, fused feed for the battery. The strobe cables that are already there are perfect for the job, and when you mount the lights, all you would need to do woul be fit the bullet connectors to the leads.. I think I have all the parts in the cupboard.

Always double check the wiring with a meter before committing, there is a remote chance that i made a mistake.

( I dont claim to be perfect, not since that episode a few years ago in the Sinai, where those Italians nailed me to the wooden cross thing and made me hang around....)

[Abe]

Firstly thanks Hendo for your input as well.   

My eye sight was not that good when I was trying to chase wires.

Long story short, around 4.30pm I was just getting my sight back (has my son "Milo" {as he is not Nestle Qick}}, was typing this for me. 
I can see better now. Chilli's, oh what a feeling (I was preparing dinner and rubbed my eye's, D*&^head, and they were Thai chilli's {yum})

You have to love the assistance this forum give's you. 

[Abe]

Brock & Hendo, I did this for my HID's (if this is wrong, just let me know),
 
I use a white board a lot in the garage when working on a problem (old day talk) or a issue (modern soft talk)



Thanks for your help.

[Hendo]

Abe,
 Looks good to me. I have modded the pic with pinout numbers for relays. My interpretation is that DL lights come on only when high beam  and SW 5 turned on.

Hendo

[Brock]

Here is a driving light diagram, not done by me this time.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53770433/driving_lights.jpg

[Abe]

Abe,
 Looks good to me. I have modded the pic with pinout numbers for relays. My interpretation is that DL lights come on only when high beam  and SW 5 turned on.

Hendo

Thanks Hendo,

Thanks for editing the drawing.

Yes, push switch 5 on, turn on high beam and the HID's come on.  Turn off high beam and the HID's go off.

[Abe]

Thanks for the link Brock.

I'll check pins 1 & 2 etc tonight and let you know.

[Abe]

Abe, I could even make a patch adapter cable with relay with relay, fused feed for the battery.

Thanks Brock for the offer, that is what I did for the HID's, I think, or is there a better way or no other way.

I took power from the high beam relay, to powered the first reply (2nd in the system), and from that relay I linked in the supplied HID relay loom.

The white board drawing doesn't show the original Honda headlight relay.

I did this, because when the switch 5 was in the off position (NO) it was in the on position (NC).


So, any thoughts would be appreciated .

[Brock]

There is always another way, I usually try for the easiest way, fewer wires to run, fewer mistakes to make..

[Dodgy]

Hi,
I know I'm new around here and don't wish to upset the apple cart but looking through this thread because I'm adding Aux lights to my new ride I came up with an alternative to the 2 relay setup for using switch #4 and High beam to engage the Aux lights

After wiring a fused cable from the battery to the nose cone area, where the relay is and heavy cables to each light for the heavy work.
Why not take the trigger power from the High beam circuit to (86) and the earth (85) through switch #4.

I have edited the white board to show what has been deleted and another pic to show what it physically looks like (two jumper wires).

The centre pin of the green plug is earth already, so one wire goes from the centre pin to Pin #3 (Black and Blue wire), then the second jumper runs from #4 (Orange wire) to whichever bullet terminal you choose to use, in my case the black wire.
At the front end I ran a wire up from my black strobe light wire up to my relay.
I know it works as I have just done it...!
I might just be lazy???
 

[Yorkie]

That is all I have ever done, switch the earth from the relay

[Brock]

I prefer not to switch earths, its a training thing. Also, if an earth line gets squished, the item defaults to on.

Its the RAAF trade training that does it, Elec Fitter/ Avionics tech of 40 years (or so)

[Gadget]

I prefer not to switch earths, its a training thing. Also, if an earth line gets squished, the item defaults to on.

Its the RAAF trade training that does it, Elec Fiotter/ Avionics tech of 40 years (or so)

I'm with you on that, but I also know Auto electricians love switching earth's, because it means fewer power runs, thus fewer opportunities to pinch power wires. It's a trade off.

Cheers,
Gary

sent using another of Gadget's gadgets.

[Dodgy]

That's a fair call and at 40,000 ft I probably wouldn't want too many items to default/fail "On" where the worst case here is a loss of Aux light control when on high beam. There is also a relay four wires and four connections less to give problems down the track. I can live with that but you make a very valid point.