OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => What have you done in the shed today => Topic started by: Dragonstaff on July 25, 2022, 04:56:49 PM
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After an oil and filter change, along with the usual checks and a clean and re-oil for the K&N air filter yesterday, and a quick, 70km, run into town for milk and a few bits for the Mrs, today she got a bath.
It doesn't happen often, because the dirt road would have me doing nothing else if I let it.
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found 4 litres of sump oil spilt in the shed, 6 pack to clean up
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I decided today to get back to the Goldwing that I haven't touched for a year or two, when I managed to convince myself that I had forgotten to put fresh moly paste on the drive splines when I put the back wheel back in after getting tyres fitted. So, off with the top box and panniers, which means off with the seat so that the wiring can be unplugged. Then remove the lower shock mounting pins so that the axle can fall below the mufflers. It has been sitting for a while and the swingarm is a bit stiff, so tie the shockers up with a bit of mig wire so that I can lift and drop the wheel a bit.
Oh look, the wheel is on the floor but the axle still doesn't clear.
Out with the Supercheap bike lift and gingerly lift the bike until I can get a bit 70x45 pine under the centre stand, and let it down again. Bounce the swingarm a bit more and we have clearance. All of half a millimetre, but enough. Take the axle out. then let the left hand shock down so that the caliper will swing out of the way. Then remove the wheel. Easy-Peasy.
What is that I see? Fresh moly paste on the drive spline? And in the hub? I didn't forget it, huh!
Oh well, at least it went back together easily, and I know my bike lift still works.
That will teach me (maybe) not to leave things sitting for so long.
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I solved the problem of clearance between the muffler and the axle by using a piece of scaff tube and a four pound hammer. Now there is a nice curvature on the bottom of the muffler and the axle just slides out. My Honda should have done it.
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That will teach me (maybe) not to leave things sitting for so long.
and to keep records of all the maintenance you do.
That saga reminded me of one of the reasons I only kept my lovely Wing for 9 months. Maintenance was a convoluted PITA.
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Maintenance was a convoluted PITA.
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Which maimtnace items are you referring to Bill?
How many kms did you do on it?
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Which maimtnace items are you referring to Bill?
How many kms did you do on it?
I did 7535 kms.
The maintenance item I didn't get to, but dreaded was the air filter. I actually sold it before I needed to do an oil change, but I wasn't looking forward to it. Apart from such items, which I am aware that you, as a long time afficionado of the marque, revel in, it was much more challenging than the ST1300 to do modifications such as adding lights and an air horn. In a nutshell, it was just a lot more bike than I needed or wanted. I loved the super-smooth engine and great torque- but the ST, although not in the same league, does it for me. At least I don't have to stand around waiting for it to "boot" before I can read the ODO for my fuel records.
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I did 7535 kms.
The maintenance item I didn't get to, but dreaded was the air filter. I actually sold it before I needed to do an oil change, but I wasn't looking forward to it. Apart from such items, which I am aware that you, as a long time afficionado of the marque, revel in, it was much more challenging than the ST1300 to do modifications such as adding lights and an air horn. In a nutshell, it was just a lot more bike than I needed or wanted. I loved the super-smooth engine and great torque- but the ST, although not in the same league, does it for me. At least I don't have to stand around waiting for it to "boot" before I can read the ODO for my fuel records.
Wing oil change is the same if not easier than the 1300. I agree with you about the boot time. I turn on the ignition as soon as I return to the bike or switch to accessories when I stop instead of off and that keeps the dash alive unfortunately also keeps the head lights on, but I can turn those off. Having to reactivate the GPS is the one that annoys me the most. The horns are great so although I have an air horn for mine will probably never install it. My first air filter was done when Honda did the airbag recall. STRay and I did the second one along with other mods. I will do the third which I will time as matter of interest. Biggest maintenance pain is final drive oil, easiest way is to remove the RH muffler. Rear wheel removal is much easier than the 1300. Like the 1300 Honda got the gearing wrong. I have now fitted a Henry Final drive. That along with a slightly larger diameter rear tyre (gone darkside >:() ) has dropped the rpm at a true 110kph from 3,000 to 2,500. Has transformed the bike to where Honda should have built it. Just trying to figure out how to do it to the 1300. I have now done 112,000kms on the wing. This year the bigger runs will be to Broken Hill, the Border Run and maybe Mudgee.
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I don't have 'boot' problems with mine. It is a 1200, so a bit before all that electronical nonsence.
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I don't have 'boot' problems with mine. It is a 1200, so a bit before all that electronical nonsence.
No boot problems on my 1500 and I can see all the warning lights no matter how the sun is shinging on the instrument panel.
I don't know much about the 1200s but certainly from the 1500 to the 1800 Honda took 3 steps froward and 1 back.
For example take a look at the decrease in pannier size from a GL1500 to a Gen 2 GL1800 and the size reduction continues for 2018+ GL1800.
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Lots of great info there, Glen. A friend has the 1500, and the only issue he's had is the alternator failed in Tassie. It just so happened that another guy in our Association had a spare alternator, and it's very easy to access and replace. Apparently it's a known weakness, but the professionally rewound ones have a much longer life. So, given that the panniers are great and there's no electrickery in the panel, if I were to ever get another Wing, I think it would be a "1500".
I'd also agree about the GPS being unhelpful. I understand you can program it by removing the card from the topbox module in the 1800, but that's annoying.
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Yes Bill I regret selling the 2000 Red SE 1500 you looked at for me in Brisbane years ago. But I don't regret buying the 1800. Unfortunately some 1500s are getting a little long in the tooth and my 1988 GL1500 outfit is in pieces in the shed waiting for me to gooing for what I believe are perished vaccuum hoses. Attached is an interesting history about the improements Honda made on the 1500.
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I understand you can program it by removing the card from the topbox module in the 1800, but that's annoying.
I think that one card can be removed to load Garmin Base Station Files on to it and another card has the map info. Maybe I should go and read the handbook.
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After that brief Goldwing diversion, back to the ST.
I am in the process of fitting a pair of Stedi Driving lights under the mirrors (they get here tomorrow) and decided to add a couple of extra farkles while it was apart. The extras are a waterproof (?) USB outlet and a pair of airhorns.
The airhorns are done.
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And...Done.
I still have to take it out and adjust them, and I need to put longer bolts and a couple more washers each side on the bracket mounts, but that is not a major job. The rest is back together and all working.
Now to update the farkles list...
And yes, I know the left hand peanut globe has blown, and I should have changed it while it was open, but I didn't have one, and didn't want a 70km drive just to get one. It can wait.
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Nice work 👍
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And...Done.
:like
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I might add, they finished sealing the last eight kms of my formally dirt road last week, so she got a proper bath on Sunday, when we had a nice 25 degree day.
She looks a lot better without the dirt and bug splatter.
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Nice work mate, looks awesome :thumbsup
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Went out the front tonight and did the final adjustments.
Here are the obligatory night shots- Low beam; High beam; and the new driving lights, in that order. I should be able to see the 'roos a bit better now.
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It's hard to tell from photos, but I'd experiment with lifting the spots a little bit and maybe out a fraction to look further down the edges of the road where the roos sit.
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It's hard to tell from photos, but I'd experiment with lifting the spots a little bit and maybe out a fraction to look further down the edges of the road where the roos sit.
I will get a night ride in one evening soon, and make adjustments as needed after that. This was done out the front of the house, and the pics are with the bike on the side stand, so a bit out anyway.
Out a little might be an idea, though. So might up.
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Fair enough. Even doing it on the centre stand isn't correct, as they will be pointing down a bit. I do mine up friction-tight, then ride to a dark road and adjust them from the saddle, leaning forward. Then I do the final tighten of everything and check them again.
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Having a bit of fun with the cruise control dis-engaging at random times lately, so I lifted the tank to check the connection to the coil.
Made a strap to hold it up while I was at it.
*This idea stolen from a pic in one of Shiney's posts, but I can't remember which one.
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Awesome job mate :thumbsup
It looks like an awesome strap :thumbs
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Awesome job mate :thumbsup
It looks like an awesome strap :thumbs
The advantages of having both a little Mig welder AND an industrial sewing machine in the shed.
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I have had an intermittent issue lately where the right hand indicators would light up for no apparent reason, and not affect the operation of the left. The right would just come on and stay on, steady, not flashing.
Hmmm, sounds like a short, but where?
My first thought when looking for a culprit was also my last- the tow bar wiring. I have been moving things around in the tail lately hunting for stop codes on my cruise control computer.
Pull the seat and bags off and have a look, sure enough, the 7-core cable from the plug has come adrift from whatever was holding it to the mudguard and rubbed through on the tyre, hidden from view by the bags. The two worn wires? Right hand blinker and tail-light.
Problem solved.
Now to fix. Pull the rack and tail-light off, and what do I find? Twitched up and then cut off bits of wire (and a ring connector) taped up and abandoned in one spot, and Scotch locks at the lights. I hate those things with a passion, because eventually they will cut the wires and fail.
So I spent the afternoon sitting at the back of the bike with a soldering iron and heat shrink etc., removing them. I have also disconnected and removed the tow bar wiring and plug, and taped the others off such that they won't short on anything. Tomorrow I will get a metre of new 7-core, and a couple of connecting plugs, one 4-pin for the lights and one 2-pin for the power, brake wire, and earth. That way, I will be able to simply un-plug the wiring if I need to. I will cut a big enough hole in the mudguard to let the 4-pin through, and put a grommet in to seal it.
For those who aren't sure, this is a Scotch Lock. Tool of the devil. :cuss :cuss :cuss
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Totally agree with you about scotch locks. They were used to connect the sidecar wiring on my GL1500 outfit and had almost broken the cable in two.
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Here are the pics,starting with the carnage, and moving on to what I have now. I have no idea where the cable was supposed to be supported, but it managed to rub itself through. I have re-routed it along the tow-bar itself, so it should not happen again. And I will check it whenever I have the right-hand bag off.
I have no pics of my nice soldered and heat-shrink-wrapped connections at the light end, because I forgot to take any before I put it back together.
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Back in the shed yesterday, but only a service this time. All the tupperware off though, so that I could blow all the dust out and clean up a couple of what look like dribbles from old oil spills. I will check them again in a few months to make sure.
All back together and ready to go this afternoon, and a week in the low twenties to start August off with riding weather.
And yes, the towbar cable is still nice and safe and cable tied to the towbar, away from the wheel. ;-*
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My contribution to the luggage key mod trend.
A bit of broom stick with a slot in it, and a bit of Araldite, then a quick squirt with the matt black. Times two.
Quick and dirty, and might be upgraded if I find the idea is as practical as it seems.
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By the look of the pannier handle you need to get some Auto Glym Bumper and Trim (or similar) onto it to restore it a bit.
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By the look of the pannier handle you need to get some Auto Glym Bumper and Trim (or similar) onto it to restore it a bit.
On more than just the handles, Bill. Most of the black has gone grey.
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I can recommend Turtle Wax's Hybrid Solutions Graphene Acrylic Trim Restorer...it's not cheap but I reckon a bottle will last for years.
It's a bit expensive from Supercheap but, if you don't mind waiting, you can get it quite a bit cheaper on Amazon with it being shipped from the good ol' US of A.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-hybrid-solutions-graphene-acrylic-trim-restorer-296ml/664170.html (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/turtle-wax-turtle-wax-hybrid-solutions-graphene-acrylic-trim-restorer-296ml/664170.html)
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0BL44PMWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0BL44PMWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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I decided the other day to move my Quadlock phone mount from the headstem mount, which is awkward to use because it is down in the middle of the bars and the tank, to a mount I copied from one here or one of the FB pages (I can't remember which, so I can't acknowledge the original, but I can post a picture of it. If the designer would claim it, I would be grateful. I don't like outright stealing ideas.) This uses a Ram mount ball and arm with a Quadlock adapter.
For some reason, the photo of my version without the Ram stuff on it will not load. It seems it 'fails a security check' or something. Odd, as it was taken with the same camera, and saved for the web at the same time, on the same computer. I would expect all to fail, or none, not one out of the bunch.
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After removing the headstem mount, I had a rather ugly, empty hole. I put a plea for a cover into the 'Wanted to buy' section of the forum, and West Aussie Glen came through. I met up with him today as he passed by on his way home from Mudgee, and collected the most travelled secondhand part in the country, that hasn't met Australia post at least. It went from Perth, to Victor Harbour, to Mudgee, and back to Loxton, in the pie-warmer of a Goldwing.
It has seen more of the place than I have!
It does make the old girl look better, though. He also noticed that one of the plastic inserts in the handlebar bolts was missing in my 'before' pic, and brought one with him for me, as well.
Thank you, Glen. It was a pleasure to meet you.
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I guess this answers my question in that thread.
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Looking much better, Dave! :runyay
Glen also came to my rescue a few years back when I was chasing a pair of the rubber headlight back covers... :thumbs
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After a bit of thought, I have bought a Car Play/ Android Auto touchscreen the same as the one Rusty got. I spent a bit of time fitting it up over the last couple of days.
I removed the aluminium bracket that I had made for the Ram Mount my phone was on, and made a new bracket from a bit of angle and an off-cut of 6mm plate. I did use the spacers and bolts from the old bracket. I wanted to be able to have it off when doing a milk run, and on without the bike running at times, so I put a switch (the same as my driving light switch) in the same spot as the one for the lights, but on the left hand side, and ran direct from my fused battery source that runs the USB port and the light relay. Wiring is, of course, in behind the top of the fairing.
All in all, it came out well.
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Some interesting reading for you Dragonstaff http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=7488.msg1296861#msg1296861 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=7488.msg1296861#msg1296861)
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Some interesting reading for you Dragonstaff [url]http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=7488.msg1296861#msg1296861[/url] ([url]http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=7488.msg1296861#msg1296861[/url])
Made one back then Glen, and have since made a hook and strap for in the shed, to get the rod out of the way.
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After a bit of thought, I have bought a Car Play/ Android Auto touchscreen the same as the one Rusty got. I spent a bit of time fitting it up over the last couple of days.
I removed the aluminium bracket that I had made for the Ram Mount my phone was on, and made a new bracket from a bit of angle and an off-cut of 6mm plate. I did use the spacers and bolts from the old bracket. I wanted to be able to have it off when doing a milk run, and on without the bike running at times, so I put a switch (the same as my driving light switch) in the same spot as the one for the lights, but on the left hand side, and ran direct from my fused battery source that runs the USB port and the light relay. Wiring is, of course, in behind the top of the fairing.
All in all, it came out well.
Good job! :thumbs
Any issues pairing it to your phone, Dave? 8)
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Good job! :thumbs
Any issues pairing it to your phone, Dave? 8)
No problems with the phone or the cheap ($79) Aldi headset. All seems to work like it should, but it is early days yet.
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In amongst the contents of the trailer, I have had a camp table of the roll-it-up-and-put-it-in-a-bag variety, consisting of one of those light-weight aluminium frames resembling a mini gazebo, and a top made of aluminium RHS slats on shock cord. It was as rickety as all get out, and the top would move around because the slats were only clipped at each end- the middle was loose.
Over the years the shock cord has lost it's shock and turned into cord, over-length cord to boot.
What to do? :think1
I have made a solid(ish) top out of eight of the twelve slats, two hinges, too many pop rivets, and a piece of three ply. It looks good, and is a lot more stable a table. It folds up into a bag made by the boss, and becomes a back wall to the trailer, keeping the bag with it's frame, and one with a folding chair in it, in place.
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After around 18,000 kms, I am due for a new back tyre. I ordered one last week, so tonight I went out and removed the back wheel. I am changing from a 195/45 Bridgstone to a 205/50 Hankook, which is closer to the correct diameter, but staying Darkside.
I have cleaned up the wheel spline, which looks to be in good condition, checked the brake pads, and changed the diff oil, because I have no idea when it was last done, but I have put 25,000 km on the bike so figured that while it was easily accessible that it was overdue.
Tomorrow I will be connecting up my new Android auto screen.
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Tomorrow I will be connecting up my new Android auto screen.
A new screen...woohoo! I'm looking forward to hearing how this one goes... :thumbs
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Keep everything crossed Rusty. I decided to work tomorrow, it will be cooler in the shed, so I will keep you posted.
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While getting the back wheel cleaned up for it's new tyre, I removed the spline hub. While cleaning it, I had a bit of bearing cage fall out on the bench.
Uh oh... This isn't good.
Knock the bearings out, and the inner one has a badly damaged seal, and not much cage left. Fortunately, my local engineering supplier (rural area, lots of farm machinery) had half a dozen on the shelf, and only $16.50 each. He tells me that he has sold 18 of these bearings over the last 14 years, and almost all of them end up in the back wheel of a motorbike.
Back home, and half an hour later, everything is as good as new.
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Hmm, it does look a little second hand... >:()
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Makes you wonder how many of our STs are getting around with rear bearings in similar condition, only not bad enough for a bit to fall out and warn us.
And BTW for those who count things, this is my 14,000th post.
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And BTW for those who count things, this is my 14,000th post.
Good skills!
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One day I might get to four digits.
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And BTW for those who count things, this is my 14,000th post.
Congrats Bill! ++ :chocolate-box-smiley-emoticon
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Well done Biggles, that is a good bit of work.
...And now back to our regularly scheduled shed stuff.
Tyre is all fitted and bike is back together. This is a bit bigger than the last one, being a 205/50-17 instead of the previous 195/45-17. The extra 50mm or so in diameter should bring the speedo back to true, or at least a lot closer.
I will test the new screen when I go out for the scrub in run in the morning.
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Tomorrow I will be connecting up my new Android auto screen.
A new screen...woohoo! I'm looking forward to hearing how this one goes... :thumbs
And the verdict is... Back it goes. :cuss :cuss
It bluetooth connected to the phone for calls and audio, but ignored my headset and refused to load Android Auto. Sellers advice was to "turn them both off and back on again" which had the expected result of no change, so removed this afternoon and a return started.
I think I will give up and save my pennies for another Garmin...
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Bugger!!!
I took my ST out today and the screen connected perfectly...until I got out of the garage! :||||
I didn't bother trying to get it to connect again as I really didn't need it on this ride...
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That is how mine started, Rusty. I hope you have better luck than me.
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I suspect I probably won't, Dave... :'(
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Today I took the Grand-daughter for a quick ride, and the cruise control finally decided that it had had enough of low vacuum, and quit entirely. So tonight I have had the air-box off and replaced the vacuum line to the cruise control's solenoid unit with one a half a size smaller, but a much tighter fit.
I am getting good at this bit- An hour and a half start to finish. I will test-ride in the morning...
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Well done..
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A fun afternoon today, fitting a side-car to a friend's postie bike. She got it made by some guy in WA who put one up on Youtube, and had it sent over. Not entirely straight forward, but not too bad, and it only bit me once.
I then had the fun of the maiden voyage, on ten ks of rural dirt road from my place to hers, because it was 4'3" wide, and our trailers are only 4'. Of course. I haven't ridden a tripod before, so that was a bit of a fun learning curve.
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Cheers, Dave, I'm sure your friend will have a blast!!!!
I fitted a homebuilt sidecar to my then wife's little Honda 250RS and I reckon I had the most fun I've ever had going so slow... :rofl
(https://i.ibb.co/PCNcDZr/Road-Slug-1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/YQSYf8J/Road-Slug-2.jpg)
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Here's a pic, or it didn't happen.
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That looks good, Rusty.
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Cheers Dave... :thumbs
That sidecar even has suspension...much more sophisticated than mine as it had none...lol
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Cheers Dave... :thumbs
That sidecar even has suspension...much more sophisticated than mine as it had none...lol
Quite an interesting design too. A quarter-eliptic leaf spring and an adjustable gas strut. It seems to work ok, and didn't bounce much, even on the rough bits of the road. It was empty too, and weighs bugger all. I could lift it onto my bench quite easily.
That fairing on the CB almost looks like a CX650 ED one.
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That fairing on the CB almost looks like a CX650 ED one.
It does a bit...but it wasn't off one, pretty sure it was off some early model honda 250.
I picked it up from a "clearance" bin at, I believe, Geof Taylor Motorcycles in Dandenong.
Anyhow, guess it doesn't matter... :think1
I may or may not still have it in my garage as I removed it (and the chair) from the CB250 before I sold it.
I'm pretty sure I still have the bikini fairing (along with a few other bits & pieces) from my old Honda CX500EC packed away in a box too! >:()
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Quite an interesting design too. A quarter-eliptic leaf spring and an adjustable gas strut. It seems to work ok, and didn't bounce much, even on the rough bits of the road.
The only suspension on mine were some rubber blocks between the body and the chassis.
Oh, I did run 7psi of pressure in the sidecar tyre which helped iron out some of the bumps. :grin
It actually rode surprisingly well, considering...smooth enough that my ex-wife travelled to a Rally in it while she was 7 1/2 months pregnant! :whistle >:()