ST1100 suspension advice

[Streak]

I noticed after my trip to Nambucca and back my rear suspension was soft, and it is set up for pillion/carrying extra gear, then it dawned on me that my rear shock was almost 16 years old on my 1996 ST1100

Any advice on what I can upgrade to or hints on setting up properly?

Cheers

Streak

[saaz]

RAD in Brisbane can do rebuilds of the OEM shock, and can also change the spring if you need a heavier one.  This would be the cheapest option, but I have heard that the life of the rebuild might vary,   but it may do what you want.  I have a spare OEM shock you could borrow if you don't want to be off the road for too long (I think it is my original, but as I have lent it to a few people it may not be!).  After that Hagon make replacement shocks that seem good value but not the latest or greatest.

[alans1100]

Hi,

If ever I get rich then this will replace mine. But at the moment my priority is getting stuff ready for timing belt replacement in 10,000k's time

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360393864521?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

and these for the front though I have no prob with front yet.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PROGRESSIVE-FRONT-FORK-SPRINGS-1991-2002-HONDA-ST1100-/250740987991?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6153d857

I only notice occaisional rear shock bottoming out when partner is on board and she complains suspension is set to firm. But our minor sealed roads aren't the best in SA

[Streak]

Thank you gents for the advice, I need to do something I think, I actually bottomed out once or twice on the trip, and it was only me with full panniers and top box.

[Biggles]

Thank you gents for the advice, I need to do something I think, I actually bottomed out once or twice on the trip, and it was only me with full panniers and top box.

That's still quite a substantial load!!

[Streak]

well i have the report back from Toowoomba Honda.....rear shock is shot to hell,

Honda Replacement shock is $570 2 weeks delivery from Japan

Ikon Shock: $520 1 weeks Delivery

So it looks like i might have to go looking for a cheaper option as that is wayyyyy dear, that does not include fitting

[saaz]

Without a new spring the RAD rebuilt should be $150 or so (maybe less). A heavier spring would be extra.

[Streak]

Without a new spring the RAD rebuilt should be $150 or so (maybe less). A heavier spring would be extra.

My problem is that i suffer from lack of skills to remove, and lack of workshop as well, my bike shop is more than happy to fit something for me if  I can source a replacement shock. good lads actually they dont get bent out of shape with outsourced items, they are happy to do business

[saaz]

The rear shock is dead easy to remove, no need for a workshop.

[Streak]

Can I ask what the process is?

[alans1100]

The rear shock is dead easy to remove, no need for a workshop.

Will send you PDF file for shock replacement by pm

[Brock]

Or have a look at section 14 of the ST1100 manual.

Paraphrase :-

Put bike on centre stand
Take off right side cover
back off spring preload to lowest setting
place jack under swing arm to take the load
remove lower shock bolt
remove upper shock bolt
shock comes out.

put back in reverse

[Streak]

Or have a look at section 14 of the ST1100 manual.

Paraphrase :-

Put bike on centre stand
Take off right side cover
back off spring preload to lowest setting
place jack under swing arm to take the load
remove lower shock bolt
remove upper shock bolt
shock comes out.

put back in reverse

nice, and knowing me....i would do that all arse about face! might be an good RTE to my house to have all the Queenslanders laughing at me trying to do it, RTE and a show

[Biggles]

nice, and knowing me....i would do that all arse about face! might be an good RTE to my house to have all the Queenslanders laughing at me trying to do it, RTE and a show

What the "To Eat" part?  The "show" might be crap     

[Streak]

Well I have spoken to Rodney from RAD Motorcycle Shock repairs (07 3892 6493), will cost between 150-200 dollars, turn around time frame is around a week or two.

So I am pulling the old shock out today and sending it up to him to get it reconditioned, we shall see what the result is, several people have told me he does an excellent job.

So I should be back on the road in time for skips ride in the middle of march.

Cheers

Streak

[Dan]

This doesn't look too bad?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Progressive-465-Rear-Shock-Honda-ST-1100-/360393864521?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e925f549#ht_1769wt_1185

[royst1100]

RAD do a good job mine has been done by them for several years

[Streak]

PROBLEM!!!!!

i pulled the Shock out, no drama's at all, then found the bottom bolt was just turning in the slot, pulled out the bolt and it has sheared off in the slot.




Help me! i don't have cash to screw this up.....how do i get this out without making a mess, or do i suck it up and take it down to the bike shop?

[saaz]

You should be able to ask around some mates to see who has an easy out extractor or similar.  Make sure to use a punch to make a mark on the bolt before driling out, as destroying the thread is not good.  Make sure you use a sharp drill bit and preferrably a mains powered drill as they have more grunt. The bolt material is tough but doable.  Sparay some CRC or WD40 on it now to free it up until you can find an extractor.  There are other ways such as heating it up before trying the extractor.

Sometimes just drilling a hole through the stuck bit of the bolt will relive the pressure enough for it to come out, but that looks rusted in.  While too late for you, it is worth greasing up the top and bottom bolts on the shock every once in a while - say every seond tyre change.  The bolt has a shoulder on it so it is under stress when you do it up - it may have been really over tightened.

You will need to order a new bolt but you probably thought of that.

[Brock]

Oh Crap!!!!!

That will need to have the rear wheel removed, and the drive separated from the shaft. then take it to a machine shop to drill out the remaining bit of the bolt.

I would attempt it myself, but I have access to people and tools to help. It looks like that bolt has been broken for a long time, an accident waiting to happen me thinks.

[royst1100]

if you get into trouble i have several spare diffs just pm me

[Down Under]

As others have said keep soaking it with penetrant.

(1) Try gentle heat with a gas torch.  It'll stuff the paint work around the mount though but you may be able to work it out.  Let it cool after each attempt.

(2) Find a bolt that is a similar diameter to the one that's stuck in there.  Get a mate with an electric welder to tack it to the seized bolt in a couple of spots.  Gently try and turn the bolt out.  Keep soaking it as you go.  If you use an arc welder don't forget to disconnect the bike's battery.

(3) Use an easy out.  I'd gently grind the face of the bolt flat......don't remove too much metal.  Punch the centre before drilling.  It's going to be tough going with a hand drill as Saaz stated, spray plenty of lubricant into the drill hole as you go.

(4) Throw tools around shed, admit defeat and take offender to local engineering shop.

Good thing you found it before disaster struck!

Good luck! 

[saaz]

This just got me thinking that we should start a bit of a register of people with spare parts sitting around and workshop capability.  I have a spare standard shock and a set of exhausts, the left one needing the bracket welded.  In only a few months I think Ozstoc has grown to be a resource for older and newer members that is second to none that have been going for years.

[Streak]

agreed, as my problem, i don't own anything in the way of tools to deal with my problem...

[Brock]

I have tools and welders, no workshop but