Author Topic: ST1100 suspension advice (Read 35435 times)

Streak · « **Reply #25 on:** February 26, 2012, 05:47:49 PM »

well i have sat here all afternoon trying to work out what to do, sad to say it but this might put me out of commission for a while, I don't have the access, ability or the tools to do it myself. and I cant justify the amount of cash the bike shop or engineering shop will charge me to fix it.

sighs, frustrated much is all i can say.....

alans1100 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 26, 2012, 06:12:52 PM »

Quote from: Streak on February 26, 2012, 05:47:49 PM

well i have sat here all afternoon trying to work out what to do, sad to say it but this might put me out of commission for a while, I don't have the access, ability or the tools to do it myself. and I cant justify the amount of cash the bike shop or engineering shop will charge me to fix it.

sighs, frustrated much is all i can say.....

I just had a look at pic of my 1100 from when I did the tyre change. I would definetly check with your local bike shop before you decide anything and you would not be the first this happened to either.

It looks like the bolt hole can be accessed from the wheel side of the mounting. Bike shop etc would possible drill the bolt out and hopefully drill to suit size of hole and then clean out the theads with hole tapping tool and fit a new bolt.

saaz · « **Reply #27 on:** February 26, 2012, 06:33:11 PM »

Hey Streak, don't be so fatalist

It should be as simple as lots of penetrating spray, put a punch mark on the bolt, drill it then use an extraction tool. Must be someone you know or who comes to the shop that could help for a beer or two

As I see it, it is only a relatively simple fix compared to many others

Streak · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2012, 06:37:20 PM »

lol punch mark? extraction tool?

you see i have this magic trick....bike go wrong...i ring magic number....bike go away...bike come back fixed, i give man money.....

marketing and sales are my strength, fix and repair is not something i know w hole lot about lol

Brock · « **Reply #29 on:** February 26, 2012, 06:45:54 PM »

OK, I will finish off my trailer, throw a few tools in it grab what I dont have and pop over and do the job. I should be back in time to start work tomorrow morning ...... Right??

saaz · « **Reply #30 on:** February 26, 2012, 07:29:06 PM »

Quote from: Streak on February 26, 2012, 06:37:20 PM

lol punch mark? extraction tool?

you see i have this magic trick....bike go wrong...i ring magic number....bike go away...bike come back fixed, i give man money.....

marketing and sales are my strength, fix and repair is not something i know w hole lot about lol

I wish I was closer then. I could do with a lot of money ::)

JuST Peter · « **Reply #31 on:** February 26, 2012, 08:02:40 PM »

I am the last person to try to suggest anything and definitely no mechanic, but is that a nut I can sort of see on the other side of the picture? If it is, why can it not be simply wound off with a spanner?

Brock · « **Reply #32 on:** February 26, 2012, 08:16:36 PM »

Just checked on my bike, its not a nut, its a piece of the diff housing that has been tapped for the bolt to screw in to

JuST Peter · « **Reply #33 on:** February 26, 2012, 08:37:39 PM »

OK, thanks Brock. Then from my very limited knowledge, it would have to be penetreen, drill and "easyout" as others have already suggested, but in defence of my ignorance of things mechanical, this has worked for me in the past

Brock · « **Reply #34 on:** February 26, 2012, 08:47:49 PM »

With the wheel out, it could be possible to get at the back of the bolt. with a bit of luck, using a fine bit a pilot hole could be drilled allowing a bigger bit to be chased through.

It sounds easy, but I'm willing to bet its a hardened bolt so that makes things more difficult.

saaz · « **Reply #35 on:** February 26, 2012, 08:59:40 PM »

It definitely is a bolt into a threaded part of the diff. The original bolt is square shouldered so if over tightened can cause problems. That is a known area for corrosion, but more in the UK. As Brock says it will be a hardened bolt so some care is required to get any drilling started right in the centre and not damage the threads, which would need a helicoil or similar thing to fix a buggered thread.

Dan · « **Reply #36 on:** February 27, 2012, 09:15:06 AM »

Quote from: Streak on February 26, 2012, 05:47:49 PM

well i have sat here all afternoon trying to work out what to do, sad to say it but this might put me out of commission for a while, I don't have the access, ability or the tools to do it myself. and I cant justify the amount of cash the bike shop or engineering shop will charge me to fix it.

sighs, frustrated much is all i can say.....

Shearing that bolt is a shame and I can understand your frustration, we've all been there one way or another! But, it's not impossible to fix. Worst case, you can always get a new final drive. There's one on eBay for about $200-ish delivered...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1993-Honda-ST1100-ST-1100-Final-Drive-/120864103564?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c240fdc8c#ht_500wt_969

So if the worst happens and the part gets trashed while trying to remove the bolt, all is not lost.

And if you do fix it yourself, you will have learned a lot along the way.

This experience served as a good prompt for me to apply some anti-seize to my shock mounts.

Down Under · « **Reply #37 on:** February 27, 2012, 09:47:17 AM »

Sorry about my previous advice Streak, from the picture you posted I didn't realise one side of the mount was threaded. I thought you had some bolt on the other side to work with.

How difficult is it to remove the final drive housing and take it to a bike dealer or engineering shop for a quote? It's not a big job with the right equipment. The local engineering shop here charges a flat rate of $70 per hour. I don't think it'll be as expensive as you think.

pault · « **Reply #38 on:** February 27, 2012, 12:29:37 PM »

this happenend to me as well, just turned it out with a pair of pliers. there will be no stress on it now so it should move easily.. if you canot get a new one let me know, there are ways of fixing the old one
paul t

Diesel · « **Reply #39 on:** February 27, 2012, 09:32:07 PM »

On my last distance ride with Streak, I noticed his bike looking quite 'spongy' compared to Saaz's ST1100P and mentioned this to these chaps. But I erroneously thought that Saaz had upgraded spring/shock combo rather than Streak's suspension having a failure.

Timely reminder punters that if your ride feels strange or different somehow, there could be a problem, so - it's worth researching/investigating any little niggly problems. Fortunately, Streak's problem was found in time. Good job mate - hope it all goes well and goes quickly for you.

Cheers, Diesel

saaz · « **Reply #40 on:** February 27, 2012, 09:46:25 PM »

You were not that erroneous Diesel as the Fournales shock is a bit of an upgrade to the OEM

I know you mentioned that mine might be interesting over bumps as it seemed more composed than Streak's...but in fact it rides rough roads like they are not there....the rough down hill part of Thunderbolts aside as it was getting both ends of the bike in the air..all part of the 'fun'

Skip · « **Reply #41 on:** February 27, 2012, 10:01:41 PM »

Sorry for your demise Streak. Can't help you mate, with anything. I have no idea. I just like riding the things.

Streak · « **Reply #42 on:** February 28, 2012, 07:27:40 PM »

Any Hints on getting the right hand exhaust off? i have unbolted it at the top, and also loosened the bolts on the bracket underneath, but it seems to be stuck fast.....

Skip · « **Reply #43 on:** February 28, 2012, 07:36:49 PM »

Hey Streak. Your not making early excuses to miss the next RTE are you?

Streak · « **Reply #44 on:** February 28, 2012, 07:38:34 PM »

nope i am on for the RTE bolt has been ordered from toowoomba honda, we think we can get the bolt out no worries, just want to get the exhaust off so we can get an easy out in

Dan · « **Reply #45 on:** February 28, 2012, 09:12:03 PM »

Quote from: Streak on February 28, 2012, 07:27:40 PM

Any Hints on getting the right hand exhaust off? i have unbolted it at the top, and also loosened the bolts on the bracket underneath, but it seems to be stuck fast.....

It should kind of twist off/out like the left side, but I found the right side a bit more awkward for some reason.

Try a few gallons of WD40 if the the end can is stuck in the downpipe.

Streak · « **Reply #46 on:** March 04, 2012, 10:57:37 PM »

Well bolt is out, shock is back in as I wanted to test it o make sure it was not the bolt problem with the suspension.

Shock is still pretty average, and I am thinking of getting it rebuilt, but I have a question with the combined weight of myself and mrs streak + gear we won't get much change out of 200kg, is it worth rebuilding a standard shock? Or am I best to replace with an Ikon shock that is a little more heavy duty?

Any and all thoughts appreciated.p

Brock · « **Reply #47 on:** March 04, 2012, 11:20:39 PM »

Its better to run a heavy shock at 50% that a standard at 110%, probably cheaper in the long run.

alans1100 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 04, 2012, 11:50:36 PM »

The book says maximum cargo weight of about 190kg for an ABS model and about 200kg for a non ABS model. That includes rider, passenger and cargo plus other accessories. So a new (which your isn't) standard shock would cope with that plus a little extra.

I'd advise to go to at least a progressive shock or better when you can afford it.

Dan · « **Reply #49 on:** March 05, 2012, 08:16:57 AM »

Quote from: Streak on March 04, 2012, 10:57:37 PM

Well bolt is out, shock is back in as I wanted to test it o make sure it was not the bolt problem with the suspension.

Shock is still pretty average, and I am thinking of getting it rebuilt, but I have a question with the combined weight of myself and mrs streak + gear we won't get much change out of 200kg, is it worth rebuilding a standard shock? Or am I best to replace with an Ikon shock that is a little more heavy duty?

Any and all thoughts appreciated.p

So how did you get the bolt out?

Personally, I plan to buy a new shock when the standard one has had it's day.

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Author Topic: ST1100 suspension advice (Read 35435 times)