OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Ask A Tech about your Honda ST1300 => Topic started by: Draco (Heartbreak Kid) on February 01, 2019, 12:45:07 AM
-
:blu13 My Blue Beast is now 225,000ks And have recently had a problem with the left hand headlight blowing low beam, 4 in 1 week to be exact.
I have since tried a new 110w globe like the normal ones Shiny and me have used for ages, BUT alas the left hand low beam lasted about a minute then DIED.... Wot thuh
So does anyone out there in ST land know of a fix for this problem??? :think1
Thanks in advance :blu13left :thumbs
-
I don’t have a clue, but it costs me nothing to guess.
During the brief time when the LH low beam is working, does it look the same as the RH? Like is it brighter, indicating it’s somehow getting a higher voltage (unlikely unless you incorrectly installed that nuclear plant under the seat), or does it flicker?
I’m putting my money on an intermittent joint. Filament-based bulbs draw a large inrush current on start, typically 10X their running current, which is a massive caffeine hit to the filament. Too much of that in a short time will kill them.
-
Would a resistor help?
-
There is a known problem with the left headlight, there are always comments on the US site. I dont think any one has a fix yet.
-
Have a look at my post: http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12981.msg1243596#msg1243596. (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12981.msg1243596#msg1243596.)
In reply no:3 I copied the wiring diag from the manual which shows that the LH headlight is controlled by relays whereas the RH headlight is directly controlled by the switch.
Maybe that will help in identifying the problem.
Allan
-
As bizarre as it sounds, it could also be a high resistance joint in the headlight lead at the terminal.
This can be caused by oxidizing of the terminals, loose fitting terminals, or the terminal has come loose on the wiring.
The high resistance causes higher heat in the lead and the bulb, and this raises the overall temperature of the bulb too higher than normal, which can cause failure.
So also check if the new bulb is slightly dimmer than the right. That is a symptom of a high resistance joint.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
As bizarre as it sounds, it could also be a high resistance joint in the headlight lead at the terminal.
This can be caused by oxidizing of the terminals, loose fitting terminals, or the terminal has come loose on the wiring.
The high resistance causes higher heat in the lead and the bulb, and this raises the overall temperature of the bulb too higher than normal, which can cause failure.
So also check if the new bulb is slightly dimmer than the right. That is a symptom of a high resistance joint.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Good point Gary. Last week we lost power to our house, and the Energex guys found exactly that scenario. The 30 year old fuse block out at the post had developed a high resistance connection and had overheated to the point where it destroyed both the block and the fuse.
-
As bizarre as it sounds, it could also be a high resistance joint in the headlight lead at the terminal.
This can be caused by oxidizing of the terminals, loose fitting terminals, or the terminal has come loose on the wiring.
The high resistance causes higher heat in the lead and the bulb, and this raises the overall temperature of the bulb too higher than normal, which can cause failure.
So also check if the new bulb is slightly dimmer than the right. That is a symptom of a high resistance joint.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
:blu13 :|||| Thanks Gadget. I'm no good at electrics :blu13left
-
As bizarre as it sounds, it could also be a high resistance joint in the headlight lead at the terminal.
This can be caused by oxidizing of the terminals, loose fitting terminals, or the terminal has come loose on the wiring.
The high resistance causes higher heat in the lead and the bulb, and this raises the overall temperature of the bulb too higher than normal, which can cause failure.
Maybe the reason why the LH headlight plug fell apart on my 1100.
Sometimes it appeared that the globe had blown but filaments looked ok - put the globe back in and it would work. That happened a few times and eventually the plug just fell apart in my hand. To much heat so I replaced the plug with a new ceramic one and it's been okay since.
-
Mist connectors are made of played copper.
Because copper is a soft metal, it will 'migrate away' or ooze away from a point where it is under pressure.
We've had a similar thing with a house switchboard where a light circuit became intermittent and the circuit breaker would trip.
We also had a Power Point in the lounge room melt on the active wire, when using a fan heater. Again due to a high resistance joint in the back of the Power Point.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
I've also seen a common fault in series 3 Land Rovers where a high resistance joint in the earth joint at the rear of the vehicles caused a weird symptom.
What happens is the tail and brake lights dimly flash when the indicator flashes.
The electricity was finding an earth trough the brake and tail lights circuits.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
I've also seen a common fault in series 3 Land Rovers where a high resistance joint in the earth joint at the rear of the vehicles caused a weird symptom.
What happens is the tail and brake lights dimly flash when the indicator flashes.
The electricity was finding an earth trough the brake and tail lights circuits.
I've seen that on other vehicles occasionally (trailers are good at it) and figured it was a short of some kind but hadn't heard of high resistance joints.
-
As Steve mentioned above a bad joint or contact can cause currant spikes shortening the life of the globe. I would assume the you have checked the connector to the headlight globe for signs of excessive heat or arcing, The next thing to check is the headlight switch as the switch supplies power to left headlight and relay. The relay then supplies the right headlight and high beam indicator on dash.
:blu13
-
The next thing to check is the headlight switch as the switch supplies power to left headlight and relay. The relay then supplies the right headlight and high beam indicator on dash.
:blu13
According to my manual and my experience, its the other way around. Switch controls the RH side and the relay the LH.
-
Hi guys, hopefully after a visit from GURU "Shiney" we tinkered and thinkered and discussed 2 options.
Option 1 oder mini headlight loom from USA $300.00+$150.00 shipping
Option 2 see pic 1
Obviously you know which option was chosen "2"
As you can see lots of thought went into this operation.
Check the old block and leave a comment if you want
Cheers Draco
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/46d7cf2f347ec842dbcc1e2f78f7f666.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/df9ae4ffff30b1fb8b5c5e4eced3bd03.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/b5353021d880764d83d55ea8597502cc.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/849f693a52a6f0e3e819be0719926819.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/1de808c17b9bb6092877a87af1bf3f21.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/a75fc976bd18dc08ab649a89a87095a3.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/04a0c100620f5cd9d4b30b4465cdff81.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/38587dadcf2d4acce076a9aeab44d3e5.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/cbb501ab92badb1a2886b91323b6cd23.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/7dc13698b9202b6e1da3fc4422e9aae2.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
-
Wow, now that was one shagged bulb holder, no wonder it kept blowing.
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
-
Be going riding later this evening to checkout new work
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
-
Good grief!
I think I might have been correct. That's a surprise.
As is the level of melting in the connector. WOW:
These areas circle in red are giveaway signs of a high resistance joint.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/e709ea94e91bad1baf1b4d4ade5d306a.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
Well "Shiney Guru" The problem is solved. The new block did the trick. Went out for a test ride ALL good the new $8.99 plug worked great. And now running these babies (pic 1).
As he said "LET THERE BE LIGHT"!
AVAILABLE Ebay $36.00 per set(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190222/87d5a8ff845bb2d5d73539e4adf5c895.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190222/4281358e44a59fd478cd869385369388.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190222/0de47255998f8e6f3d6be9930255e035.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190222/8686b016f9dd2938c4e000b870b5bbe6.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
-
Wow, now that was one shagged bulb holder, no wonder it kept blowing.
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
See mine here; globe never failed but kept going out. Moment I touched the plug the light would come back on until one time the plug fell apart. Replaced with a ceramic plug
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4626/40022032352_0e92a2e7fb_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23YBnSy)DSC_1402 (https://flic.kr/p/23YBnSy) by Alan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152195423@N05/), on Flickr
More here http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12504.msg1233142#msg1233142 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12504.msg1233142#msg1233142)
-
Be going riding later this evening to checkout new work
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Glad to see you got it sorted.
-
Thanks mate help from shiney was very welcomed
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
-
Always happy to help where I can :thumbsup
-
So pleased I didn't give you a bum steer.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
No problem thanks mate
Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk