OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Brakes & Clutch ST1300 => Topic started by: HunterTodd on July 05, 2014, 02:18:58 PM
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Right at a point in my life when I need to ride my bike to relieve the stress I am under, the bloody thing is doing my head in.
I thought the long running saga of the clutch slave cylinder was over but I was wrong.
Needing to clear my mind this morning I jumped on the bike for the first ride post slave cylinder install. The first thing I noticed is the take up point is now with in mm of the end of travel. And I literally mean millimeters. Before it was halfway along it's stroke.
It also seems a lot stiffer. I can imagine with a lot of changing in traffic it would get quite difficult.
I can live with that but now the clutch slips under load. In any gear.
I am running Penrite HPR Gas 10 10w-50 weight. The container says it is suitable for motorcycles with wet clutches.
I can't imagine how I could have stuffed the slave cylinder installation process but the only two things I can think of.
1) the pushrod seal is some how displaced and is depressing the pushrod
2) I got the wrong slave cylinder and the piston is different. (Are they the same across year models?)
I read on another site that it is possible for the system to have residual pressure as a result of the bleeding process with the result the clutch is partially disengaged. Has anyone heard of that?
I am at my wits end with this damn bike and I am beginning to regret my decision not to buy a Triumph. It should not be this hard. Any suggestions appreciated.
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Where in the travel is the mm's, at the out end or in near the handlebar. If you mean near the full out travel, then its normal, thats why we fit VFR adjustable levers.
Any residual pressure can be relieved by undoing the bleed vale. If there is any pressure then fluid will come out. There may be air still trapped in the system as well.
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Thanks Brock.
Yes it is away from the handlebars.
That seems odd but now that I think about it the clutch packs in the equipment we service only move millimeters between engaged and disengaged so I guess with fresh hydraulics it would not take much to shift it.
Which leaves the slipping. I was going to crack the nipple as a precaution but I can't imagine that would be the cause. No other suggestions?
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I run the same oil ...... My clutch is normal no slipping
Turtle
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One thing you can do (no promises)
Tie your clutch lever back,
( start or not start the bike, up to you, to increase vibration to dislodge any air bubbles attached to the clutch piping system)
Idle for 10mins, turn off
Leave overnight with lever tied back.
Hopefully that will assist with removing any air bubble within the system.
I do this with my 1100 when I do the clutch and brake flush.
Just food for thought, mechanic's may correct me ???? But it works for me
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As Abe suggested keep line pressure up overnight. This will bleed system and all ? will be ok. It does sound like it is an air problem. This forces any air that maybe in the line to back bleed. This has worked many times on my Patrol with brake and clutch issues. Good luck................ :wht11
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Abe's idea is a well known solution if you can't get the clutch bled properly. One other way is to vacuum the fluid from the slave end to force it through, as it seems air gets trapped around the slave or master cylinder.
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The other problem is when the bleed nipple is opened too far, letting air past the threads.
Open the nipple a little bit and rebleed the clutch.
We have done quite a few bikes without the vacuum bleeder. A one way valve helps, but not necessary
:blu13.
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Tried tying the clutch down. (Reminded me of a horse I once owned.) No success. Re bled and there was no air.
The clutch disengages almost the instant I pull the lever so I don't think it is a lack of pressure problem.
I went on the American ST forum and a guy suggested that it could be the return oil gallery is blocked or partially blocked in the master cylinder and it is taking a while for the pressure to bleed off after I use the clutch. I thought I cleaned it really thoroughly but with the amount of crap the system it wouldn't surprise me if there was a bit left.
The guy reckoned that the return gallery is the one with the little spoon shape doo hickey covering it. He reckons the doo hickey is there to supress the the squirt of the return fluid
Before I start pulling thing apart again does anyone know if what he said is correct. It sounded plausible to me. BTW The only reason I am seeking reassurance is no one has mentioned on this forum yet.
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The best advice I can offer you is get a "Mighty Vac" it is worth the $90 easily, as you will use this many ntimes over for brakes and clutch servicing. (UK ebay). it makes flushing the system a breeze and so quick.
I had a simmilar problem after rebuilding a brake master cylinder on my VT750 Shadow prior to owning a Mighty Vac, it took me 2 full days to get the air out of th line....
As a quick attempt, try to flush 4 full cycles of fluid thru the master cylinder, fill bleed and try to build up pressuer by repeatadly and quickly squeezing the lever. you can try to tap the bar end to induce vibrations while doing this to try to get bubles to rise. you can also try to remove the master cylinder from the bar and hold it in a more vertical posture to assist with bubles rising, you obviously have air and or a blockage in the line...but you knew that already....