OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => Lights and Lighting => Topic started by: Jdbiker on July 25, 2016, 08:18:40 PM
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Planning on fitting some extra lighting. Bought these HIDs recently, ones on the left in plane packaging are from eBay Aus for 65$ for the pair, one on the right is from Mclarry US. With dollar conversion and postage set me back around 200$ Aus. I was under the misconception that advertised price was for a pair but realised otherwise when only one light arrived in package :fp . As far as I can see there's no physical difference between the two except Mclarry one is euro beam and the others are spot beam. Anyway, will be fitting these to the ST and would like some advice regards the following.
Wiring: I plan to to take direct line from battery and switching from high beam via relay so as not to overload existing circuit, would that be OK?
Beam: Two spots or spot and euro, if spot and euro, left or right ?
Thanks in advance.
Position: Under or over mirror is better?
Thanks in advance.
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direct feed from battery through relay to light, you will need a separate on off switch
wired through the high beam circuit. just as you say. the hight beam will only feed the relay coil itself so there is no appreciable added current drain.
check light box for how many amps the lights need on start up. and wire from battery heavy enough for 2 lights. I would go the spot and euro, get better spread, Would it really matter which was left or right? May i suggest you take your time with this, all that work in getting plastic off, only do it once. What temp are the bulbs please?
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Thanks pault.
Specs on box: 6,000 color temperature
3,200 lumens
3.15- 3.30 amp draw.
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Here is the wiring diagram.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/Avtrician/driving_lights_zps9ed5juzn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Avtrician/media/driving_lights_zps9ed5juzn.jpg.html)
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You will have read elsewhere that there is a noticeable delay in the HIDs lighting up at first. Not so bad after they have been on for a while, then off for only a short time.
The beauty of the HIDs is they throw those 3200 lumens down the road. The 3486 Lm LEDs I have throw a lot down the road, and a lot out in a general "glow".
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Thanks Brock and Biggles.
Wiring diagram was exactly what I was looking for. As far delay in start up, shouldn't matter too much as I don't see myself doing much night riding, may attempt a far ride or two down the track though :thumb
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If you go the HID headlight route in the future, be aware that the power supplies can fry when the bike is started, due to the drop of the lights on crank. There is a fix we came up with, where the HID headlights dont come on until the side stand is up.
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I have the twin 55w Euro beams on mine and they're more than ample for legal plus highway speeds for distance and the beam is fairly wide each side of the bike.
Wiring harness was supplied with mine so it was all but plug and play. I swapped out the on/off switch for the one I had on the bike from a previous set. The only upset was the light wiring didn't match the harness (+ wire went to - wire) so I just swapped them around and they worked.
I ordered two Euro beams but got 1 Euro and 1 spot and after letting them know they sent out the other Euro so I have a 55w spot beam for free which I haven't used yet.
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If you go the HID headlight route in the future, be aware that the power supplies can fry when the bike is started, due to the drop of the lights on crank. There is a fix we came up with, where the HID headlights dont come on until the side stand is up.
I wasn't aware of that but then I'm not running high beam when I stop/start the bike.
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The driving lights are ok, its the HID headlights that fry.
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If you go the HID headlight route in the future, be aware that the power supplies can fry when the bike is started, due to the drop of the lights on crank. There is a fix we came up with, where the HID headlights dont come on until the side stand is up.
Should be ok if HIDs are off when bike is started?
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The driving lights are ok, its the HID headlights that fry.
but we aren't legally allowed to fit HID headlights to STs and thanks for the clarification
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aren't legally allowed to fit HID headlights
That is another tale.. o:) o:) o:) o:)
Should be ok if HIDs are off when bike is started?
Thats what the side stand mod does, it disables the battery connection to the HID power supply, meaning there is no power surge during cranking. once the engine is running, and the side stand is up then the headlight comes on.
You could use a simple switch, but you could forget to turn the light off or back on. We usually dont forget to put the side stand up or down.
;-*
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I'm confused now o:) should or shouldn't I fit the HIDs? Don't want defect notice from :cop.
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HID driving lights are fine, its headlights that are norty, unless the bike had HID headlights as original fit (STs didnt have them).
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Thanks for clarifying that Brock. You guys are a mine of information :-++ me happy now :grin just need to fabricate some mounting brackets.
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Police brackets work well, you would need the new longer bolts as well.
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Where would I find police brackets and for how much. I was planning the el cheapo way with some sturdy L brackets under the mirrors which would be less obtrusive
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The police brackets can be sourced from Honda, not sure of the cost, its been a long time since i bought them
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http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2003/ST1100P%20A/WINDSCREEN/parts.html (http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2003/ST1100P%20A/WINDSCREEN/parts.html)
15 STAY, R. FR. PATROL 88800-MZ9-900
16 STAY, L. FR. PATROL 88900-MZ9-900
23 BOLT, FLANGE (6X45) 95801-06045-08 x 2
24 BOLT, FLANGE (6X65) 95801-06065-08 x 2
about $AUD150 delivered the last time I checked
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Just completed one bracket, seems ok, no vibration at idle or when revved at standstill. next bracket should be easy now that I have the dimensions right. Will report back once both wired up and road tested.
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The lights look the goods- should be able to get a part in the next Star Wars trilogy as the Battlestar Galactica.
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The lights look the goods- should be able to get a part in the next Star Wars trilogy as the Battlestar Galactica.
[/quote
OEM headlights looking like oil lamps in contrast :-[ Is there a way to upgrade OEM headlights without going down the HID or LED path?
Cheers.
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Off to make next bracket. Total cost for two brackets and longer screws $ 19.50.
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The lights look the goods- should be able to get a part in the next Star Wars trilogy as the Battlestar Galactica.
OEM headlights looking like oil lamps in contrast :-[ Is there a way to upgrade OEM headlights without going down the HID or LED path?
Cheers.
Replacing the standard bulbs with Xenon bulbs is the way to go if you want an upgrade but don't want HID or LED.
Just get the H4 ones with a colour temp between 5000k to 6000k for a white light.
There are lots of these bulbs on eBay for very little money. (If you do get cheep ones get a few extras as spares. Saves having to wait for delivery when you need replacements down the line.)
And if you need it, the ST1300 Headlight Bulb Replacement guide is here:
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=3537.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=3537.0)
Cheers
Shiney
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Nice bike.....what colour is it?
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Would really like to see your brackets JD :popcorn :-++
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The lights look the goods- should be able to get a part in the next Star Wars trilogy as the Battlestar Galactica.
[/quote
OEM headlights looking like oil lamps in contrast :-[ Is there a way to upgrade OEM headlights without going down the HID or LED path?
Cheers.
I use these Osram H4 Night Breakers - recommendation from a couple of UK riders and a lot better than the standard 55w/60w.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190866023954?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190866023954?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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That's cheap. I've found the Narva 120s for $50 a pair on eBay, and they're pretty good too. Usually $80+ at the auto stores.
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That's cheap. I've found the Narva 120s for $50 a pair on eBay, and they're pretty good too. Usually $80+ at the auto stores.
Bought my first pair in May 2015 and (touch wood) both still working. Considering cost includes postage from UK that puts them on par with standard H4s in a garage etc.
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Thanks Shiney, will try them out.
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Nice bike.....what colour is it?
Please don't be upset, but it's a 2008 so might be same as yours, STunning red :crackup
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Would really like to see your brackets JD :popcorn :-++
Nothing fancy Chris, just plain L brackets drilled and cut to size with spacers to clear the fairing and longer bolts, pics attached.
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Well done. They're very similar to the MCL brackets which I put on Ruby 2sday.
I do prefer the below-mirror configuration.
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I think to be legal, you shouldn't be able to turn on the driving lights unless the high beam is on. Or is this just testing the lights before wiring up?
sent using Tapatalk
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Just testing. Need to pick up a relay,switch and some wiring bits before connecting them up. Will follow Brocks wiring diagram.
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++
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Looks good. My tiny 20w led ones are mounted via joist hangers :-) check out the various H4 upgrade pages on the forum... I have before/after shots of ostam silver stars, now have 23,000 km on them, and about $25 delivery for a pair from the UK.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
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generally speaking, the spot beam is set on the right and the spread on the left. This fits in with the light pattern of the headlight. The spot would normally be directed down the centre of the road so as to no hit oncoming drivers and the spread cover the extra area in line with the left side of the headlight as well.
Now having said that a lot of riders will set their driving light up different to the above (a personal choice).
The issue of HID bulbs in the headlight is that the reflectors are not designed for the HID bulb.
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Thanks tj189, that's how I have set them up, spread-euro on left, spot on right. Is there an easy way of aiming the lights without having to the the bike on the road, like against a wall? Also need some advice re DRLs, wattage, wiring etc.
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Thanks tj189, that's how I have set them up, spread-euro on left, spot on right. Is there an easy way of aiming the lights without having to the the bike on the road, like against a wall? Also need some advice re DRLs, wattage, wiring etc.
I've aimed my lights against a wall. Put the bike on the centrestand around 10 meters from a wall, measure the height of the centre of the headlight on the bike and mark that height on the wall with a bit of tape. The middle of the high beam pattern will need to be about that height, but a small amount of tweaking may be needed after a road test.
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I've aimed my lights against a wall. Put the bike on the centrestand around 10 meters from a wall, measure the height of the centre of the headlight on the bike and mark that height on the wall with a bit of tape. The middle of the high beam pattern will need to be about that height, but a small amount of tweaking may be needed after a road test.
Probably needs you sitting on the bike to be accurate. A rider, and especially a pillion and full panniers, makes quite a difference.
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generally speaking, the spot beam is set on the right and the spread on the left. This fits in with the light pattern of the headlight. The spot would normally be directed down the centre of the road so as to no hit oncoming drivers and the spread cover the extra area in line with the left side of the headlight as well.
I considered a spot and a flood but compromised and went two Euro beams. We have a floodway (about 500m long) a few km out of town and we rode out there to set the lights up. They had their first decent night run coming back from last year's border ride. Nundroo back to Ceduna in the dark - both sides of the road where it counts lit up and more than enough visibility for down the road at 110kph
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Would really like to see your brackets JD :popcorn :-++
Some daytime photos.
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The set up as I mentioned earlier fits in with riding on the left side of the road and the right spot shooting down the centreline, so when there are no oncoming vehicles I normally ride down the centreline and the right spot is now catching the tabledrain on the right side of the road. This is a defence mechanism to assist in trying to identifying those pesky hoppers and give me a little more time to react.