OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Shiney on February 17, 2013, 03:51:40 PM
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Over the weekend I found myself having to replace the left side headlight bulb as low beam had stopped working.
So I thought I’d take some pics and do another How To :grin
Put the bike on the centre stand and turn the handlebars to the side you need to replace (as I was replacing the bulb on the left I turned it to the left)
This gives a great view to the rear of the headlight
Note: The area can be accessed from above (following the line of sight in the following pics) or from below.
(https://image.ibb.co/diQPvF/IMG_1251_zps292ac385.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/bA3Ypa/IMG_1252_zpsf1e65a0f.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/jJioNv/IMG_1253_zps1dd13017.jpg)
Now remove the plug from the back of the existing bulb.
(The plug has a tab on each side that needs to be pushed in at the same time to release its grip on the bulb)
NOTE: The tabs on the side of the plug are are actually located closer to the bulb then is displayed in the picture below
(https://image.ibb.co/bsY52v/IMG_1273_zps6df0676c.jpg)
Now remove the rubber boot from around the bulb.
The boot on mine has a rubber tab sticking out so it was easy to grab and pull, the boot comes straight off.
(https://image.ibb.co/hnLeUa/IMG_1257_zpsa28f5d43.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/bGJYpa/IMG_1258_zpsce985dcb.jpg)
This will expose the bulb and the tension wire securing the bulb in place.
(https://image.ibb.co/gn8Ypa/IMG_1259_zps350749cb.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/kYPTNv/IMG_1260_zps006e4879.jpg)
Now release the tension wire and remove the bulb.
Push in on the wire and move it to the side to release the wire as shown in the following image
(https://image.ibb.co/cyFmFQ/2010_10_03_014510_Headlight_Retainer_Clip.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/eFdcFF/IMG_1265_zps620519b5.jpg)
Cut the two side tabs off the new bulb
(https://image.ibb.co/jW9pUa/IMG_1281_zpsdd4895d4.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/dyP1aF/IMG_1282_zps0aba942a.jpg)
Slip an adaptor shim over the top of the new bulb (If the old bulb has one on it remove it and place it on the new bulb)
The adaptor has a small cut out at the bottom that fits around two little tabs that stick up. With a set of pliers squash the base of the bulb to the adaptor then bend the two little tabs over the adaptor to help secure it to the base of the bulb.
(https://image.ibb.co/bS7hhv/IMG_1261_zps8f41aba4.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/fNgm9a/IMG_1263_zps8f414cfe.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/k15eUa/IMG_1264_zpse84f6c68.jpg)
Now slip the new bulb into the light enclosure (feel around the edges to make sure the tabs are sitting in the matching groves)
Push the tension wire across the bulb and slide it to the side to lock it in place.
(https://image.ibb.co/nEocFF/IMG_1266_zps455e09fd.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/hU4HFF/IMG_1267_zps48425adf.jpg)
Now slip the rubber boot over the bulb.
Place a finger through the little hole and hold it up to the back of the bulb, feel for the three prongs from the back of the bulb and slid the boot on around them (make sure all three prongs come through the hole) then push around the outer edge of the boot to secure it in place.
(https://image.ibb.co/nkFeUa/IMG_1269_zps73c79b07.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/gxF2hv/IMG_1268_zps9f5647d9.jpg)
Finally slip the power plug onto the bulb and test
(https://image.ibb.co/faYipa/IMG_1272_zpsad8f9feb.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/jtGgaF/IMG_1275_zpse4e38df2.jpg)
Cheers
Shiney
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Nice write up Shiney.
I replaced both of mine a couple of weeks ago with Phillips globes and the light output is now sensational. It took me just under 1 hour to do the first side and 9 minutes to do the second side. Ahh the pleasure of knowing what you are doing.
:rd13
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Good write up mate, we should start calling this section "Shiney's Manuals" after the Haynes Manuals of years gone by. The Haynes Manuals were done the same way, they bought a car and the mechanic took it apart while having photos taken of salient bits and pieces. Then the whole thing was put back together with more pictures. Incredibly useful manuals which would allow an almost complete novice to strip his car down to the floor and the rebuild it.
Well done, keep it up!!
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Thanks Esstee :hatwave
And a big thankyou to Whizz for all the kind words and encouragement over all my guides :-++ :-++ :-++
I'm sure I'll do some other things to the bike :wink1 so there will be more How To Guides showing up in the future :grin
And luckily the brain trust is always there to make sure the whole thing makes sense and add anything I missed, thanks guys :-++ :-++ :-++
Cheers
Shiney
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Thanks Gavo :hatwave
The bulbs I used were these ones from ebay.au:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261109534456?var=560161364093&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261109534456?var=560161364093&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
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Oh and when buying them you must choose which ones you want... I chose the following
H4 12V 60/55W Super White
:grin
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What are the the two free LEDs that they include good for, Shiney?
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What are the the two free LEDs that they include good for, Shiney?
Sorry Biggles, I have no idea :fp ( :think1 it has a little slip of paper packaged with them that says: Free gift 2 x T10 LED)
If anyone figures it out let me know :thumb
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Maybe for the park lights, that we dont have....
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I just did a replacement of the left bulb in an ST13 (seems the left bulbs go all the time for some reason). Easy enough when you have done it once or seen Shiney's guide. I ws wondering why it was so hard to do, until I found that some bright spark had silasticed the rubber boot around the bulb :cuss I put in a spare Philips Vision plus bulb I had spare, and it was noticeably brighter than the standard bulb in the other side.
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Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.
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Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.
You're so right about the connector- I found it the hardest part. I had encountrered the wire on car headlights before.
The first time I did this without the benefit of a manual or Shiney's presentation , I ended up yanking the connector off with pliers after struggling with it with my hurting arthritic fingers for ages. I squeezed until my arm ached, expecting there would be some sort of retaining clip, not knowing it was the part closest to the bulb that required squeezing.
If you agree with that analysis you could add it to photo #3, Shiney.
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Well done, Shiney.
Fantastic pics they will make it easier to follow the words.
Getting that spring wire back in is the hardest bit of the job.
And the two pressure buttons on the side of the connector are right at the front not on the back edge.
You're so right about the connector- I found it the hardest part. I had encountrered the wire on car headlights before.
The first time I did this without the benefit of a manual or Shiney's presentation , I ended up yanking the connector off with pliers after struggling with it with my hurting arthritic fingers for ages. I squeezed until my arm ached, expecting there would be some sort of retaining clip, not knowing it was the part closest to the bulb that required squeezing.
If you agree with that analysis you could add it to photo #3, Shiney.
Thanks guys :hatwave
Your both bang on the money, well spotted :-++ :-++ I hadn't noticed how far back my fingers were in the photo :fp
The guide has been updated :thumbs
As with your example Biggles, little bits of information like that that can make a huge difference :thumb Thanks for letting me know :-++ :-++
Cheers
Shiney
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Glad I saw this before my ST1300 decided to become a pirate and have a bung left eye.
I personally found it easier for me to reach in from under the front with the wheel turned to the left to do the left bulb. The bulbs on the bike were Honda 45/45W originals. So as I didn't have any shims on hand I did a bit more web searching and found where someone had just bent the bottom two H4 tabs back. Once I worked out how to do it on a spare Xenon H4 I had in the cupboard, I went off to Super Cheap and bought a set of Narva Blue Plus for about $65. (turns out they are Osram Bulbs made in Germany)
After fitting the new Bulbs, I took a look at the front and the clearance/parking lights looked decidedly yellow. As the new set came with blue tinted clearance/parking light bulbs or as Honda call them "Position Light", I decided to have a go at replacing them. The Owners Manual on Page 117 gives 4 steps and refers you in step 1 to Page 88 inner cowl removal.
Up to there it was pretty straight forward. After the inner cowl was removed I tried approaching from top and from the bottom and I found teh approach from underneath gave me more feel and maneuverability. For some reason I started on the Right-hand side first. It took me quite a while to actually find the socket (Rubberised) because it was behind an large unplugged Yellow Socket. Once I got it out by lots of wiggling it was fairly easy to replace the bulb in the socket, but getting the socket back into the light assembly was very difficult, because the aforementioned Yellow socket kept getting in the way. finally I could see the blue bulb coming through the fitting and after another bout of wiggling and pushing on the socket it finally seated all the way in. The left hand side was fairly quick as there was a lot more free space.
Took it out for a run this evening up an unlight road and I now have a very clear evenly distributed wide low beam, and a lot of range on High Beam.
Obviously they won't be as good as HID's but, they are a relatively cheap way of getting decent lighting without all the extra dangly bits. :wink1
Sorry no pix as I was flat out getting the job done in a morning.
Cheers,
Gary
________________________________________________________ :blu13left
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Awesome work mate :-++ :-++
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ole lefty went on mine yesterday. So, off to Supercheap I go and bought a pack of these: Calibre Halogen Globe - 12V, 60/55W, Xenon Blue, Extra Vision Performance, 2 Pack (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Calibre-Halogen-Globe-12V-60-55W-Xenon-Blue-Extra-Vision-Performance-2-Pack.aspx?pid=120192#Cross). I've been riding in the dark AM and PM lately and felt quite vulnerable with only 1 operating, so I didn't argue about price or have time to find something better/cheaper on fleabay.
Shiney's instructions had me done (for both left and right) in about 20 mins. I found it easier to come in from the top rather than underneath. Perhaps it's my dainty ballet dancer fingers that made it easier. I don't know how you get your meat-hooks in there Magilla! I also found the hardest part was getting the right-hand connector back on - working blind, facing the rear of the bike, eyes closed.... be the bulb, be the bulb.
Also, I didn't bother with the shims - 'cos I didn't have any. Since righty was working, I powered her up after doing the left and the alignment seemed spot-on, so I doubt I'll ever worry about it. Besides, I can always use that dial on the left hand side of the dash again - I've not used it since the first day I had the bike home.
Cheers to Shiney!
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Yes, another great write up, thanks Shiney
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Thanks guys :-++ :-++
I'm glad it has been of some assistance :thumbs
Cheers
Shiney
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SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.
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SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.
Sounds like a lot of head scratching and/or beer cogitation went on in that time. :grin
For most of us, the killer was getting the wire plug off the old bulb. Shiny's advice about squeezing the plug makes all the difference between frustration and a simple job.
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SHINEY, very nice job posting with pix.I replaced both headlamp ,First one maybe an hour,the second 15 minutes.
Welcome to the forum SAMM :hatwave
It sounds like one of the bulbs may have a little stuck :|||| but once you got it removed the process became a LOT easier :thumb
I'm glad you found the guide to be of some assistance mate :thumbsup
Cheers
Shiney
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This would have been a really tough job without your help. I have a question for all. I am new to my ST1300 and love it but I am trying to install Pia Blue Plus blubs. As you probably know the tabs don't line up. Can I just fold them back to fit in the space then lock with the spring wire? If I have to cut them off and use a shim, where would I find the shims.? Are they stock items, I don't know. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I really want to use the Pia bulbs. Thanks in advance.
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Welcome to the Forum, Brian. No better way to enter than via a question!
You can just bend and break the bottom 2 lugs and the bulb will sit in the headlight just fine. To "belt and brace it" you can buy the H4 shims online. They just ensure the bulb is held flat if there was any doubt. They are after-market manufacture.
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Thanks Biggles, I am sure I have this now. Also thanks Shiney, the pic by pic really helped.
My ST1300 totally has my old BMW 1200LT beat. I look forward to gleaning more information from the trust. Ride safe.
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Hi Brian, Can you please give us some feedback of how you find the improvement with the bulbs fitted.
http://www.piaa.com/store/p/49-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bulbs.aspx (http://www.piaa.com/store/p/49-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Twin-Pack-Halogen-Bulbs.aspx) According to the company blurb at the link, the 60/55 H4 will give the equivalent of 100 watts of light output.
"The PIAA H4 Style Xtreme White Bulb provides intense white light at a 4105K rating to illuminate road hazards and street signs long before normal halogen bulbs, with a slight blue topcoat tint for enhanced curb appeal. Manufactured to SAE recommended specifications and DOT compliant, this 12V bulb provides 110 watts of light for 60 watts of power on the high beam (60/55=110/100 watt) and is made with a high-quality, heat-resistant tube."
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7 months later, lefty went again :|||| . So, back to Shiney's thread to see what to do again. :hatwave
It seems that nice 'n expense globes had no effect, so off to eBay: 8 globes all for less than $12. Let's see how they go.
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7 months later, lefty went again :|||| . So, back to Shiney's thread to see what to do again. :hatwave
It seems that nice 'n expense globes had no effect, so off to eBay: 8 globes all for less than $12. Let's see how they go.
Thanks for the warning about Calibre bulbs. I got my Narvas from Supacheap, so I'm hoping they last longer than 7 months.
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Thanks for the warning about Calibre bulbs. I got my Narvas from Supacheap, so I'm hoping they last longer than 7 months.
No probs Biggles - but just to clarify... when I put the Calibre bulbs in I replaced both. At that time, only the left (OEM) had blown. This time, the left only again - so the right-hand Calibre is still going strong. I believe there is a known issue with the ST1300 that the left is prone to blowing early. Some put an extra resistor in to lessen the current/voltage/elektrickery - I'm not sure if it helps.
I figured that at $1.40ea, they may not last as long, but I'll still be infront compared to the others.... and I'll be able to change globes with my eyes closed after all of the practice - not that you need eyes open when you're changing these babies :o
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That's an awesome price BigTed :eek, can you share the link to the seller with us :thumb
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My OEM gave me 62000 kays (more relevant than months, I guess) which was acceptable, and you're correct, it was the left that went first. It was a Brazillian Philips 45/45W. I replaced the still-working RH one 4000 kays later since I was going away and didn't want to have suffer a change on the road.
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That's an awesome price BigTed :eek, can you share the link to the seller with us :thumb
Keep in mind they are just regular H4 bulbs with blue-tinted glass... no Xenons, etc... I actually don't do much night-riding, and it's usually in the city where there's lots of lighting anyway.
Seller here (http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/shoppingnewfrog).
Bulbs here (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SN9F-4-H4-P43T-12V-Car-Safety-Halogen-Light-Bulb-Headlight-Lamp-Blue-Plated-/121107293329?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c328ea491&_uhb=1).
I hope I got the right ones! |-i
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Hi Big Ted,
Thanks for the post about those headlight bulbs.
Was there any problems en-counted with the fitting? did you have to adapt their bases at all or did you have those special adapter thingies.I am interested to get a pack of the bulbs, just to have them on hand as consumables , cos the OEM's are so expensive.
Cheers ,Winston66, Northampton W.A.
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That's an awesome price BigTed :eek, can you share the link to the seller with us :thumb
Keep in mind they are just regular H4 bulbs with blue-tinted glass... no Xenons, etc... I actually don't do much night-riding, and it's usually in the city where there's lots of lighting anyway.
Seller here ([url]http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/shoppingnewfrog[/url]).
Bulbs here ([url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SN9F-4-H4-P43T-12V-Car-Safety-Halogen-Light-Bulb-Headlight-Lamp-Blue-Plated-/121107293329?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c328ea491&_uhb=1[/url]).
I hope I got the right ones! |-i
They look good to me mate :thumbsup
Thanks for the link, I might have to get a set just to have as spares :wink1
Cheers
Shiney
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...I might have to get a set just to have as spares
Wait until I get them... ordered 3 weeks ago :well - as soon as I get them I'll put a pair in.
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Well I love this forum!
I decided to replace my headlight bulbs with the brighter bulbs 60/55, and thanks to shineys master guide it took me about 20 mins!
And it has made a massive difference, take a look below:
BEFORE:
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/b9b03a2380f18e1b7e7fad85313fe382_zpsb1acae89.jpg)
HALFWAY:
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/46b10aa4c202056a68b492f33b760d7e_zpsdf3ef4da.jpg)
AFTER:
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/de74a3dff59e779126cf39b449401c72_zps565d023f.jpg)
They only thing I did different was I used pointy nose pliers to get the bulbs in as I don't have dainty enough hands to get in there with my fingers.....
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd499/ozstoc/eed00439e3159965684209a09049af76_zps5b6d402f.jpg)
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AWESOME :thumbsup what an amazing improvement :eek
and I'm glad the guide is still helping people :grin
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Just wait a while, could be some LED H4 bulbs going in an ST1300 before too long...
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Just replaced my Headlight bulbs today with Phillips H4 60/55 4300k "Bright white light", Before Friday's start for Cooroy FarRide
Typical Male "I can do this I don't need to look at Shiney's write up" :spank
Well after talking to Streak, I went home read Shineys write up, Not an easy job but is done :grin
Thanks Shiney for your effort to help us " Typical Males out"
:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
:thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup
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Good globe choice Leo..... :thumbsup
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Just replaced my Headlight bulbs today with Phillips H4 65/55 4300k "Bright white light", Before Friday's start for Cooroy FarRide
Typical Male "I can do this I don't need to look at Shiney's write up" :spank
Well after talking to Streak, I went home read Shineys write up, Not an easy job but is done :grin
Thanks Shiney for your effort to help us " Typical Males out"
:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
:thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup
My pleasure mate :thumbsup
I still remember how much of a pain in the arse it was when I first did mine :||||
I'm glad the guide has been of some help :hatwave
Cheers
Shiney
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Thanks Shiney, great instructions. :beer
Just replaced mine after the IBA OZSTOC 1600 low beam (nearside failure, common issue)
New ones are Motolite 60/55W H4. Cost :think1, still no idea.
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Thanks Shiney, great instructions. :beer
Just replaced mine after the IBA OZSTOC 1600 low beam (nearside failure, common issue)
New ones are Motolite 60/55W H4. Cost :think1, still no idea.
I see.....now so can you :nahnah
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Thanks Shiney, great instructions. :beer
Just replaced mine after the IBA OZSTOC 1600 low beam (nearside failure, common issue)
New ones are Motolite 60/55W H4. Cost :think1, still no idea.
Cheers mate, it's always good to hear that it has been of assistance :thumbs
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Hi shiney. I just had to replace the globes in my 1300 as Stinkey Pete let me know that my left hand side light had gone during the Swan Reach RTE. Your instructions were great. 20 minutes for the first side and 5 for the second. I now have the Narva 60/55 plus 120. So I will see how they go.
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I now have the Narva 60/55 plus 120. So I will see how they go.
I've got'em and they are certainly brighter. I only get 20 to 30 thousand kays out of the left bulbs, regardless of type. The RH side seems to last twice as long. Go figure! The OEM bulb gave me 66 thou, but is lower wattage and hence probably running cooler.
They're $40 a pair incl P&H on fleabay compared with $80 in the auto shops.
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I'm seriously considering LED H4s next time a bulb blows. The same ones saaz has.
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They are still going at 20,000kms now. Work well in the ST1300 reflectors, should be ok in the ST1100 as well. The daylight visibility is a real bonus as they do stand out.
I'm seriously considering LED H4s next time a bulb blows. The same ones saaz has.
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Do you still have the link?
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These are the same ones http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-bright-3200lm-h4-led-headlight-hi-lo-beam-car-led-h4-Headlamp-Bulb-35w-12V/32221003713.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-bright-3200lm-h4-led-headlight-hi-lo-beam-car-led-h4-Headlamp-Bulb-35w-12V/32221003713.html)
Just make sure they are the ones with the dome LEDs, and the fan assembly screws on to the H4 assembly. makes it so much easier to fit, and the beam pattern is like with H4 halogens but brighter.
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Hi Saaz. How do the LED lights fit with rubber boot and Does the fan sit out in the open. They look quite long. I looked at these and thought this may be a problem. Do you have to trim the extra 2 lugs.
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Hi shiney. I just had to replace the globes in my 1300 as Stinkey Pete let me know that my left hand side light had gone during the Swan Reach RTE. Your instructions were great. 20 minutes for the first side and 5 for the second. I now have the Narva 60/55 plus 120. So I will see how they go.
Thanks Richo, it's always good to hear that the guides have been of help :grin
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
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Is that 68 for the pair?
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I got mine from sprint auto parts for $52.00 for the pair. Super cheap had the same globes for $89.00
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I would not expect that sort of improvement from a 60/55 bulb, but they would be better than standard
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html)
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Shiney thanks for the detailed how to replace headlight bulbs. :thumbsup took me 1 hour for the left and 20mins for right. Had trouble getting a grip on the power connection at the back of the light.
Needless to say all good now.
Again kudos to you :-++ :clap
Thanks
:blu13
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I'm happy to hear that the guide was of some assistance mate :thumbsup
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:thumb
Brilliant "How to" Shiney, adding my thanks mate. One observation, I actually found it easier with my big mitts to access the headlights from under the front faring, above the front guard.
Looked a bit odd straddling the front wheel with both hands up her blouse, but I think Mrs Bimble bought my excuse. :grin
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hi Guys. thanks to the many writeups for the idiots guide to changing your St's light bulb for the 1st time. I was thinking ( just looking at it , that itd be harder than it was.( not so bad, but takes awhile + patience the 1st time. I thought Id have to get the voltage thing sorted out but when I thought about it .... well... light bulbs have a use by anyway and tried a new one. Off to repco for a newie. No.... they dont stock a 12v 45/45w + the tangs on the bulb dont match. The angles are different. The older bloke at the counter said Mazda stock that tang angle but we dont. He said if you want to use ours cut one of the tangs off. Well..... you actually have to cut both the bottom angled ones off. the one at the tops ok. when you fit the bulb it sits in tight and when the spring is fastened its as tight as a drum. If you want to do this Quickie replacement out on tour I suggest to pack side cutters. I imagine Ill get a few boo hoos but It worked for me.
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hi Guys. thanks to the many writeups for the idiots guide to changing your St's light bulb for the 1st time. I was thinking ( just looking at it , that itd be harder than it was.( not so bad, but takes awhile + patience the 1st time. I thought Id have to get the voltage thing sorted out but when I thought about it .... well... light bulbs have a use by anyway and tried a new one. Off to repco for a newie. No.... they dont stock a 12v 45/45w + the tangs on the bulb dont match. The angles are different. The older bloke at the counter said Mazda stock that tang angle but we dont. He said if you want to use ours cut one of the tangs off. Well..... you actually have to cut both the bottom angled ones off. the one at the tops ok. when you fit the bulb it sits in tight and when the spring is fastened its as tight as a drum. If you want to do this Quickie replacement out on tour I suggest to pack side cutters. I imagine Ill get a few boo hoos but It worked for me.
Thanks Johbay :hatwave
You are right on the money the bottom two tags need to be removed when fitting a H4 headlight bulb.
Once this is done an adapter shim can be placed over it to get the bulb to sit exactly right or as you have said just fit it in using only the top tab :thumbsup
As far as the removal of the tabs a set of pliers will do the job nicely, just bend it forward and back a couple of times and it will break off nicely :thumb
Cheers
Shiney
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Just did this job as per the guide and had it knocked over in about 5 minutes. :thumbsup
However, either as a result of my lightning fast bulb replacement skills or because of the ravages of time, the rubber boot on one side has split. I notice that it appears to be very similar to that of the boots on the daughters cars ( had a bit of practice earlier). Are these a fairly standard thing or will I have to take on Honda for a part?
On a side note, Repco have 60% off globes. This brings down a set of Narva 100+ to about $40 or their home brand down to about$30
cheers
Troy
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Just did this job as per the guide and had it knocked over in about 5 minutes. :thumbsup
However, either as a result of my lightning fast bulb replacement skills or because of the ravages of time, the rubber boot on one side has split. I notice that it appears to be very similar to that of the boots on the daughters cars ( had a bit of practice earlier). Are these a fairly standard thing or will I have to take on Honda for a part?
On a side note, Repco have 60% off globes. This brings down a set of Narva 100+ to about $40 or their home brand down to about$30
cheers
Troy
I'm glad to hear that the guide was of help :hatwave
As for the boot, I really don't know if a car one will get a good fit.
If you wanted to try a car one I suggest you take the good one off the bike and bring it to the guys at Repco, they should be able to check it against the car ones they have in store and may find one that is the same.
If you do decide to do this please let us know how you go :thumbsup
Cheers
Shiney
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You can also used a rubber adhesive (3m have one) that will glue rubber back together. Similar to superglue
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THE PICTURES HAVE BEEN UPDATED ++
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Thanks for the pics and words Shiney, they helped!
:thumbs
Yep! The ST1300's LH low beam went kaput, a little while ago, but thought it prudent to replace before Harrow RTE. Had a spare H4 (for some long sold vehicle) in a drawer in the garage, had to break-off the lower tabs, connected wiring before final fit.
Damn! Hell! Poop! No worky on high beam!!!
Will now pick a couple up through the week.
Re. wattage? I see from the thread that the general consensus is to upgrade from the OEM 45/45 to 60/55, but not any of the high wattage options of 100/75 or 100/90. I expect there is a good reason for this. Could it be that these options would generate too much heat and damage the lens or reflector, or both?
I also see from above that Biggles was thinking of going Brazillian. You crafty old devil Bill! Not sure what Mrs B had to say about that. How about a report about your batting on a clean wicket, aye?
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Re. wattage? I see from the thread that the general consensus is to upgrade from the OEM 45/45 to 60/55,
Isn't the 45/45W globe just an ST1100 thing.
Looking through the owners manual PDF for the 1300 Specs under lights it says 60/55W.
Only thing different mention for Australia is the position (parking) light which is 5W except "U" type.
What ever globe is in my 1300 at the moment it is a lot better than the OEM 1100
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I also see from above that Biggles was thinking of going Brazillian. You crafty old devil Bill! Not sure what Mrs B had to say about that. How about a report about your batting on a clean wicket, aye?
I had to re-read the whole thread, ya dork! :-(((
And No- it was the bulbs that were Brazillian. :p
Anyhoo- while I was away in Taswegia the left one blew. That was OEM, and had done 101903 kays, so no complaints about that! I had a Narva 120 plus with me from the previous ST- pair bought in July 2015. Now the lights don't match. I have a pair of Chinese LED H4s in the shed that I'll try and if I don't like them, go back to Narvas from ebay at $40 the pair (last time I bought).
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I fitted a pair of Chinese LED H4s a while back. I think that they were $29 for the two including postage (I got the EBay address from a post on the forum). The LED low beam is the brightest and best low beam light that I have ever had and when used on the highest height setting it does not leave you in the dark when you dip down from using spotlights. However, the LED high beam is terrible and not as bright as the OEM high beam. This is not an issue if you are using LED spotlights in conjunction with the high beam.
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http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12992.msg1243688#msg1243688 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12992.msg1243688#msg1243688)
Here's a link to discussion on the LED head globes that I was using.
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I fitted a pair of Chinese LED H4s a while back. I think that they were $29 for the two including postage (I got the EBay address from a post on the forum). The LED low beam is the brightest and best low beam light that I have ever had and when used on the highest height setting it does not leave you in the dark when you dip down from using spotlights. However, the LED high beam is terrible and not as bright as the OEM high beam. This is not an issue if you are using LED spotlights in conjunction with the high beam.
That's good news. I figured something similar, since when I'm on high beam, the yellow incandescent area on the road is insignificant compared with the light the spotties throw.
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Thanks for the pics and words Shiney, they helped!
:thumbs
Yep! The ST1300's LH low beam went kaput, a little while ago, but thought it prudent to replace before Harrow RTE. Had a spare H4 (for some long sold vehicle) in a drawer in the garage, had to break-off the lower tabs, connected wiring before final fit.
Damn! Hell! Poop! No worky on high beam!!!
Will now pick a couple up through the week.
Re. wattage? I see from the thread that the general consensus is to upgrade from the OEM 45/45 to 60/55, but not any of the high wattage options of 100/75 or 100/90. I expect there is a good reason for this. Could it be that these options would generate too much heat and damage the lens or reflector, or both?
I also see from above that Biggles was thinking of going Brazillian. You crafty old devil Bill! Not sure what Mrs B had to say about that. How about a report about your batting on a clean wicket, aye?
Just finished swapping faulty LH globe for a goodie, and good RH to match the LH, both 100/65. Tested in garage, looks okay. LH took five minutes, RH took a lot effing longer - probably an hour, had all sorts grief getting little wire spring clip to fit into it's groove securely.
Isn't the 45/45W globe just an ST1100 thing.
Looking through the owners manual PDF for the 1300 Specs under lights it says 60/55W.
I can confirm I removed two 45/45 globes.
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Putting 100 watt globes may be pushing the limits of the wiring, as its only very light.
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I can confirm I removed two 45/45 globes.
I noticed that yesterday when I was looking for some part unrelated numbers:$40 a globe was a bit much as well.
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I would be very concerned about the heat produced from 100W bulbs. The whole headlight assy is only plastic.
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I would be very concerned about the heat produced from 100W bulbs. The whole headlight assy is only plastic.
Maybe one could drill holes in the reflector to let the heat out. :grin
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What ever globe is in my 1300 at the moment it is a lot better than the OEM 1100
Found out a day or two ago that mine has 45/45W Honda OEM globes.
Went to swap the globes over this afternoon and the new H 455/60W with adapter wouldn't sit in properly. The adapter went in on its own ok but not both together. I'll have another try tomorrow and see if they go in to the 1100 ok; if so they can stay there. OEM globe went back in without an issue.
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On the 1300 all you have to do is snip off the 2 angled tabs off a h4 bulb, perfect fit after that :-)
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
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On the 1300 all you have to do is snip off the 2 angled tabs off a h4 bulb, perfect fit after that :-)
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
On the 1100 I just fold the tabs back and there's no issue so should be the same on the 1300.
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On the 1300 all you have to do is snip off the 2 angled tabs off a h4 bulb, perfect fit after that :-)
Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
Yeah I found that too, and I wondered why. I thought H4 was the mechanical standard. Are the OEM bulbs not standard? Or a different standard?
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Are the OEM bulbs not standard? Or a different standard?
Yes!
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The ST1300 bulbs are not standard, but a specific Honda part. Uf you use a standard H4 globe, simply cut off the bottom two tags, and it will sit fine in the mount, with no need for an adaptor plate.
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Yeah I found that too, and I wondered why. I thought H4 was the mechanical standard. Are the OEM bulbs not standard? Or a different standard?
They are a H4 which uses PX43T - 65 degree base which Honda uses outside of the EU and UK where they use a standard P43T base.
(https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/motorbikes/1361211d1429121819-diy-honda-activa-headlight-upgrade-automotive-headlamp-base-styles.gif)
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The ST1300 bulbs are not standard, but a specific Honda part. Uf you use a standard H4 globe, simply cut off the bottom two tags, and it will sit fine in the mount, with no need for an adaptor plate.
Don't have an issue with the 1100 where I just bend the tabs back 90 degrees and it all works.
Just tried the 1300 again with the tabs cut off and it still won't go in properly with the globe by itself.
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Have a look on the bottom side Alan, there may be two little dimple tabs pointing up that might stop the bulb going in properly. you can see them in the pic , on the right. I think the standard H4 has them a little further apart. just cut them off.
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I normally bend the tabs up to fit into the 1300 sockets, but last time I changed the bulbs, I couldnt get one fitted in until I realised that I hadnt been careful enough when bending the tabs and it was not bent perfectly to the edge of the circle.
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Have a look on the bottom side Alan, there may be two little dimple tabs pointing up that might stop the bulb going in properly. you can see them in the pic , on the right. I think the standard H4 has them a little further apart. just cut them off.
Not an issue as the OEM globe has those little tabs wider than H4 P43t base.
At the moment both OEM 45/45W globes are working so they'll do until I blow a globe.
I do have an Osram Night Breaker (bent tabs) that used to be in the 1100 until one of those blew so when I get adventurous and go look for it I'll see how that goes in the 1300.
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I just came across this and thought it may just help make things a touch clearer in regards to the plug & globe removal & fitting... :popcorn
https://youtu.be/GIW1xs1Q0fc
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That is a great video, it's very helpful to get a good look at how it is done :thumbsup
Thanks for sharing it :-++
Cheers
Shiney
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Just had to change the left one on my 1300, and this made the job easy.
Thanks Shiney.
And yes, I also cheated and just folded the tabs up, like the guy in there before me had.