OzSTOC
Farkles, Gear & Accessories => Construction and Major Projects => Topic started by: winston66 on October 05, 2013, 04:35:15 PM
-
The expanding
Teardrop Trailer Build
By Winston Lee
18/04/2013
Concept.
I wanted to go touring, and camping, on my motorcycle.
But did not want the complexity and all of the associated hassles of roughing it, or erecting tents. Or sleeping on the ground, or fighting with a swag, or blow up mattresses etc.
Besides that is a lot of stuff to pack on the back of a motorcycle.
So after some considerable thought I decided to construct a pull along teardrop trailer, for my motorcycle .
I wanted to incorporate some unique design features that could only enhance the pleasures that would ensue with its use.
With my limited skills and capabilities this build had to be simple and economic in design, and concept, and to use easily available and inexpensive parts, and components, and the tools that I had to hand.
I selected a readily available small trailer chassis kitset that I could easily assemble, and when completed it would comply with the Western Australian motor vehicle registration specifications. (it had the factory supplied required Vin. number etc.) And came complete with the full suspension , Spare wheel, Trailer hitch, safety chain, lighting ,and wiring loom, and suitable 7 pin plug. Etc.
The assembled dimensions of the chassis were most suitable for the intended purpose and did not need to be altered in any way.
At this time I was not overly concerned with the finished gross weight of the trailer as the kitset components weighed in at about 65 kilograms and I was allowing for a possible all up finished laden weight of around 190 to 200 kg. My towing motorcycle in my opinion is just one of the best, being a Honda ST.1300. It has plenty of power and certainly can go fast enough for me. We are limited here anyway in Western Australia to a maximum of 100 kilometres per hour whilst towing, and a maximum of 110 at other times when on the open road .
=======================
Body Design,
I wanted to be as economical as possible with the materials needed, so I elected to construct the body from aluminium checker plate (diamond pattern), and it was to have a plywood floor.
The body would initially be a one piece shell and when finished would then be cut in half across ways and the rear portion would be attached to both the chassis and the rear portion of the floor, the floor would be in two pieces also, (details of this later).
The front portion of the floor would be on top of and overlap the rear portion.
The rear portion of the body would be perminately attached to the rear main part of the floor and the chassis. The extending front portion of the floor, and body, would then be able to slide forwards away from the rear part of the floor and body, and up the draw bar, towards the towing hitch. Supported by Teflon sliders and some small fabricated rollers.
The effect of this would be to extend the opened ,overall length of the teardrop body from the designed 1550 mm (closed length) , for towing. To a total extended length of 2400mm, This would enable a full length for a (bed) of some 1020 mm. wide, (the chassis width.) by 2000mm in length . Ie. some(50) mm. longer than a normal bed (which is 1950mm) ,and then there would then be an area of some 400 mm. deep, accessible through a rear hatch as a totally separate storage area (some might call it a kitchen.)
Access to the bed area is through the sides at the point where the body divides and can be an opening of between 800mm. to 900mm. in width, depending on your preference.
I subsequently have constructed a couple of separate cover panels which clip on to the side and the top, over the opening, these will provide adequate weather cover for the opening in the top and one side. These panels unclip when packing up and are stored on the floor of the front half, and when packing up I place them under the folded mattress, before sliding the two halves of the body together.
There is also a very light weight awning system which attaches over the opening and will give full shade and rain protection if needed.
I wanted to minimise the cost of the single most expensive components, ( The aluminium cladding for the body), Consequently the sides were shaped and designed to be both cut from a single 2400 by 1200 mm sheet of 2.4mm aluminium, don’t forget to reverse the profile for one side so that the outside surfaces will have matching patterns to the outside.
The top was cut from a single piece of 2400 by 1200mm 1.6mm aluminium . The top was cut
to be finished 20 mm. wider in total than the finished width of the outside of the body. The hatch for access to the rear storage area necessitated the subsequent purchase of a suitable sized extra piece of cladding. This was sourced at the time of constructing the two clip on cover panels.
=======================
Chassis Considerations and adjustments
For stability when towing. The draw bar length needed to be adjusted to a ratio that is dictated by the wheel base width, (or track). This needs to be minimum of one point eight times the wheel base width. I feel that a ratio of two times is even better.
To achieve this the draw bar was extended by approx. 650mm. from the front of the chassis, this gave an approx. total length of 2300mm from the axel position.
At this time I also extended the total length of the draw bar to project 300mm past the rear of the chassis this gave me a firm attachment point for the rear of the body and also a suitable mounting position for a bumper, or in my case a place to mount the spare wheel.
As the wheel track is 1200mm. from centre to centre of the tyres, and the draw bar length 2300mm from the axel to the tow hitch, this equates to a ratio of 1.9, and I found that with these dimensions the trailer was well behaved and tracked the motorcycle perfectly and there was no induced swaying whilst underway.
Trailer Hitch
This one is quite important.
The supplied hitch is of the standard design and suitable for up o 750 Kg.
However for use with a motorcycle, I would recommend obtaining an aftermarket unit that swivels around the axis of the drawbar. This is for safety reasons, because if your bike ever falls either off the side stand, or is dropped, even at a low speed, if the hitch does not swivel, some quite serious damage will be caused to the attached hardware on the motorcycle.
Draw bar weight,
I feel that this is very important and some care must be exercised when loading the trailer, I have found that for me, a tow hitch weight of around 15 kilograms when laden, is acceptable, but you will have to experiment a little in order to find out what will suit your particular situation.
With the Easy Tailer chassis I took the trouble of dismantling the leaf springs in order to remove the second leaf from each spring. In my opinion the overall laden weight of the trailer did not need the extra helper spring leaf, and doing this actually improved the handling of the laden trailer. Whilst doing this I also slipped a piece of suitable plastic irrigation hose over the bolt that retained the rear of the spring in the slipper, this reduced the transmitted noise when the spring moves.
After assembling the chassis and attaching the springs, when fitting the axel I turned it upside down and placed it on top of the springs, this lowered the chassis approx. 40 to 50mm which will reduce the overall finished height of the trailer. It also lowers the centre of gravity.
After fitting the stub axles and the finished draw bar, the chassis was checked for squareness by measuring from the back corners to a centre point on the attached tow hitch, when these measurements were the same I also checked the distances from the ends of the stub axles to the same point on the tow hitch in order to make sure that the trailer would track properly.
When all was square the chassis assembly bolts were checked for tightness and then any joints that were suitable on the chassis were welded .
Tyres
The tyres and wheels that were supplied were 12 inch rims fitted with 4 ply high speed tyres rated for 120 kph. And 480 kg. I found that an inflation pressure of 25lbs was suitable for me.
Lights
Standard trailer lights, ie, side, running, stop, and turn indicators, with incandescent bulbs were supplied with the chassis components.
I felt that these were quite satisfactory for my needs, but if something up market was required you could obtain some suitable, led type, there is a very wide choice on E Bay.
Sliding Floor
This was achieved by making several sets of rollers and then inserting them in the main floor as shown, see the photos for illustrated details.
The rollers were constructed from a piece of 1 Cm. Thick nylon cutting board. I used a 30mm. hole saw to cut out the wheels, and the axles are from some ground down 5/16 inch bolt shafts, these were then held in place with some appropriate stainless steel strapping, and countersunk ¼ inch bolts.
With hindsight the roller idea is probably a bit too much , I now think a suitable result could be obtained by using thin strips of Teflon fastened on the main floor, (glued), and the sliding surface faced with something like melamine.
Internal divider
This will be needed in order to divide up the internal space as you require as well as providing a very strong bracing for the sides and also supporting the top.
This was constructed from a suitable piece of sign white. Bent to shape to give recessed area for clearance for your feet, and to make a shelf in the rear storage space, This divider adds a tremendous amount of needed reinforcement and stiffening, to the sides and the top.
=======================
Trailer build
Step 2
Sourcing parts and hardware.
1 The basic trailer chassis,
Carlex Pty. Ltd. (Easy Trailer Service Centre) Email sales@carlex.com.au
830TA Trailer Trailer Model LCI-830TA
Spare Wheel, 4 Stud
Trailer Stand
Tel 1300 881 787
These people have a comprehensive range of product , contact them for their product catalogue etc.
See appendix 1 for the specifications
2 The aluminium sheeting for the cladding, and the right angle al. extrusions etc. contact any of your local sheet metal suppliers for their selection of product and prices, I used aluminium diamond pattern checker plate for both the sides (2.4mm.), and the top (1.6mm.) Full sheets 1200mm. by 2400mm.
2 General hardware items. Locking Latches, and general
3 assorted bolts and other fastners etc, The local Motor vehicle and hardware parts supplier.
4 Screws, and Sealed aluminium pop rivets, Bolts etc. The local Bunnings.
5 Wooden components, plywood etc. Bunnings.
6 Silastic adhesive Bunnings.
==========================
STEP 3
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
West Australian Government legislation.
See attached extract for current requirements.( if I can find it)
For your build you will have to consider some if not all of the following points.
1 Weight
2 Width
3 Height
4 Lighting
5 Towing speed (Tire ratings and sizes)
6 Draw bar length
7 Tow hitch weight
8 Overall weight
9 Tyres , Specifications, Sizing, Speed and loading,
10 VIN. Number
11 Vehicle licensing
12 Driver (licensing) requirements.
13 Fuel consumption. Towing vehicle
===============================
STEP 4
Insurance and Legal Considerations.
1 Check with your Insurance providers as to their requirements in regard to your special situation and requirements, and to ascertain what disclosures they will require from you.
2 Will you and your Motorcycle comply with their requirements? or will you have to canvas the providers to find one that will be interested in your business.
3 If you choose to use any of the information provided in this blog, it is solely at your own risk and the author is absolved from any consequences or happening that might ensue by your actions.
==================================
Appendix 1
WWW.easytrailer.com.au (http://WWW.easytrailer.com.au)
sales@easytrailer.com.au
Ph.1300881787
Basic trailer chassis, information.
Trailer specifications
Model 830TA Chassis Trailer-Rigid
Bed size 1220x1016mm tare weight 65 Kg.
Compliance ADR/ECE .
Springs HT. Slipper (660) Kg.
Wheels 12” white Spoke Steel (5mm)Tyres 60 Psi, 4 Ply, High Speed
Hubs/ Axle 4 Stud, Cast Iron(990) Kg. Bearings, 2” Fully Tapered (990) Kg.
Bed Height 475 mm. Coupler 50 mm. 750 Kg.
Coupler Height 410 mm. (Hitch) Frame “C Section 1.5x2
Hitch Standard Regulation 750 Kilogram
Safety chain Regulation stamped 1000 Kg.
Drawbar 700mm,-2.5”x2” Lights ADR Combination Type
Wiring 7 Pin Flat Loom
Lights Combination/stop/running/turn signal indicator. With Optional / Amber side lamps
=========================================
Appendix 2
Concept drawings
The following few drawings are an attempt to show some of the design concepts and ideas that I used to ratify my final design, in some instances the final design changes quite a lot from these original sketched ideas and this was because of having some new ideas and also having to adapt certain features to suit the available materials etc.
You will get the idea.
These were my initial sketches which I used to prove the concept.
The final build changes somewhat from these examples. As some minor modifications were incorporated as the build progressed, and I had the opportunity to improve, some aspects of the design. As I thought of them.
I actually built things to fit as I went along and ideas came to me
All the measurements and notations shown, are nominal values only. But I made some effort to try to make the drawing to scale.
The dotted vertical lines that show the centre portion of the floor lifting vertically, this was not used in the final build, as I decided to make the floor in two pieces, then to divide, and then slide over itself.
The final size of the body was dictated by the stock size of the kitset trailer chassis, and the overall size of the top of the body was dictated by cutting it out from only one sheet of aluminium.
The drawer bar was lengthened to 1800mm from the axle and then 300mm rearwards to provide extra support for the body and the spare wheel.
The zig zag dotted line towards the rear shows the internal divider which separates the rear storage compartment and also adds a tremendous amount of bracing, support for the roof and stiffness to the body.
The square item on the draw bar could be provision for a esky or other storage area, but that item would have to be removed when opening out the trailer body. I felt that this was not practical, and my esky is carried inside whilst travelling.
Well that is all I have to say folks.
I hope that you found my little exercise interesting and possibly informative.
My next exercise is the construction of a single wheel (uni go) type of pull along trailer.
This utilises as the main components the front wheel, complete with the telescopic forks, and the chassis of a discarded scooter. Then there will be the body build and the construction of the special draw bar and hitch coupling.
Cheers.
Winston Lee Western Australia.
Email meontop@hotmail.co.uk
-
Wow what a read... great info, thanks
-
Nice work Winston66, and well documented. :thumb
Although I'm not keen on the trailer for sleeping in, I do like the concept of buying the lightweight registerable unit, and modifying it to suit your own needs. It's a great way to get the chassis/suspension unit, and builders could then add any kind of top unit that suits their particular purposes.
-
Many thanks for all that interesting info Winston66. :thumb
May look at making a trailer late next year, after I finish some already started projects.
-
Good read Winston. Am working on a single wheel one myself. The biggest problem I am having so far is the NON rotating hitch. All the 4wd type ones are far too heavy, and anything I can make will not be legal, so have stalled for the moment.
:bl11
-
Hi Stevo,
My reading and understanding of IB-12A Vehicle Safety and Standards Bulletin.(WA. Gov)
Says
Note 2.Says, All Individually constructed Trailers.
Individually constructed trailers must also comply with the requirements specified above.
Purpose built couplings and tow bars must be referred to the Department
"if these components are unmarked and there is doubt to their strength".
AD62 mechanical connections between vehicles requirements must be satisfied.
I take this to mean that a strong and well made hitch and draw bar arrangement would be acceptable if it presents in an acceptable manner.
Perhaps your local vehicle inspection people could give you a valid ruling.
I personally am going to take this up with the local people.
Cheers ,
Winston66
-
Hi Winston, I have rang the RMS here in NSW and they tell me that anything I construct myself must be approved by an Engineer approved by the RMS. One Engineer I rang said about $1,200 to $2,000 to get a hitch certified to pass the ADR 62/02. Not in my budget! I thought about using a 4WD type one and modifying it, but the legalities become an issue in an accident. So far, still thinking on it.
:bl11
-
There are swivel hitches available over the net, I think classic trailers has one.
-
There are swivel hitches available over the net, I think classic trailers has one.
$250 from http://www.classicind.com.au/Parts/ (http://www.classicind.com.au/Parts/) under coupling in the LH menu
-
Winston66,
Thanks guys,
Unfortunately those classic trailer swiveling hitches will not work for a mono wheel trailer their operation is wrong .
What is needed is a hitch that is rigid along the longitudinal axis of the draw bar as the trailer must be kept in the same vertical attitude as the motorcycle.
Those hitches will allow the mono wheel trailer to fall over.
However they are ideal for fitting to any pull along standard two wheel trailer that is going to be used with a motorcycle.
Most overseas designs for the single wheel trailer utalise something akin to an automotive universal joint which is fitted so that it only allows angular movement about the combination's lateral and vertical axes only.
Clear as mud , hey.
Cheers ,
Winston66
-
The biggest problem I am having so far is the NON rotating hitch.
Thanks Allan and Brock but I need a NON rotating/swivel hitch.
:bl11
-
Awesome work Winston, legendary effort :thumbsup :clap
-
The biggest problem I am having so far is the NON rotating hitch.
Thanks Allan and Brock but I need a NON rotating/swivel hitch.
:bl11
This might be the best place to start looking
http://www.uni-go.com/proddetail.php?prod=TR7030 (http://www.uni-go.com/proddetail.php?prod=TR7030)
http://www.uni-go.com/products.php?cat=13&pg=2 (http://www.uni-go.com/products.php?cat=13&pg=2)
-
Fantastic Winston!! A very interesting and informative write up, well done mate!! :thumbsup
The completed trailer looks great, now...........what's with the next project, why the single wheel trailer?? :grin
-
Hi Couch.
Thanks for that.
You asked why the single wheeled trailer?
Well the answer to that is ,I get bored and I like to do stuff.
I have spent the last 10 years naffing about building a house etc. to live in, and have finally got to a stage where I feel comfortable even though some aspects of it will probably never be totally finished, but it suits me .
And now with my very limited income I prefer to do stuff like this instead of spending time idle or in a pub.
After the last two trailer builds and becoming more aware of their capabilities and possible shortcomings, I thought that the mono wheel presents some different challenges and aspects to consider, and also could open up some further uses for the motorcycling experiences, situated as I am , a shopping trip to the nearest town is a round trip of 150 klms. and Perth is one way 500 Klms.
Even though the camper van runs on Used Vegie oil and the Statesman does 10 K to the Liter, I still want to get on either of the two bikes and enjoy the outdoors and the freedom of the open road..
Cheers , Winston66
-
Fair enough mate, I understand exactly where you're coming from! I've never been one to sit around or spend time in the pub either, I've built 4 homes as an owner builder, including the design of each, drawing them up to scale and right through to final landscaping. There was only two things I never attempted, electrical work and plumbing. Also built myself a trailer way back in 1978, I brought a 14ft Catamaran and didn't have the money to buy myself a trailer, so I set about building one, it turned out really well considering I had never even held an electrical welder, let alone used one, but I borrowed one and wammo, away we went!!
Although we have a small local IGA store here in town our nearest Woolworths or Coles, or for that matter, any other shop, is a round trip of 170klms away, ha! ha! .....beat you by an extra 20klms!! I don't look to do so many projects myself these days, but I certainly understand where you're coming from!! :grin
-
Hi Couch.
Now I am jealous!!!!
Your little paradise sounds even better than mine.
Cheers, winston66
-
I guess we're both lucky Winston, we're both away from the hustle and bustle of city life, no parking metres in our little town, and the nearest set of traffic lights is 85kls away, in actual fact we only have one set of traffic lights all the way in to Hobart, which is 110kls away, and I don't even have to go through them as there's a bypass road. I spent far too many years living and driving in the city every day, I'd never want to go back to it!! :grin
Hi Couch.
Now I am jealous!!!!
Your little paradise sounds even better than mine.
Cheers, winston66
-
Hi Couch,
My dad would have told me in no uncertain manner.
Its not GOOD LUCK.
It is just GOOD MANAGEMENT!!!!!!
Cheers, winston66
-
I knew a guy who hated traffic lights so much I moved every time his town installed a set
-
:rofl
I knew a guy who hated traffic lights so much I moved every time his town installed a set
-
The biggest problem I am having so far is the NON rotating hitch.
Thanks Allan and Brock but I need a NON rotating/swivel hitch.
:bl11
Thanks Allan. I don't know if the uni go hitch would be compliant with Aussie ADR's. I am thinking that I may have to use the Heavy 4wd type (4 tonne rating!) and live with it.
-
Question without notice :think1 - So wouldn't the trailer body be better turned around 180 degrees on the axle so it was more streamlined at the front reducing the frontal area behind the bike, reducing drag and thereby improving fuel economy by shiploads? :wink1 :thumb
-
No, because drag is at the back. Have you ever seen an aeroplane wing with the pointy bit to the front?
The 'eyeball' aerodynamics look good, but don't work. The airflow wants to come back together and the smoother this can be done the less drag will be caused. The turbulence behind the bike would make no difference to the airflow on the front of the trailer, and the flat sides would cause their own problems. I think Winston has made the best compromise regards shape verses useable space verses weight.
:bl11
-
Hi Sicman,
Now that is a question and I do not have a definitive answer for you,except that I went with the conventional design concept.
I have never seen a teardrop trailer type design going backwards as it were.So it did not occur to me to try that approach.
I do agree however that the total bulk of the trailer has an effect on the fuel economy but it does not seem to be too excessive, over a 240 Klm. trip my economy went from an average of say 18.5 Klm. per liter for one up ,It dropped down to an average of about 15.0 Klm. per litr. Whilst towing.
A lot seemed to be dependent on how heavy I was on the throttle whilst accelerating and if there was a stiff head wind or not, as well as to weather I used the cruse control whilst traversing through the up and down bits of the road.
Dont forget that we are limited to 100 Kph. whilst towing, and if this speed is observed the effective wind resistance is in reality quite small when compared to what would experienced at a higher speed.
That is if you were to double your speed the wind resistance would be increased by 400 percent. and that would be massive.
Cheers . winston66
-
....
Dont forget that we are limited to 100 Kph. whilst towing, and if this speed is observed the effective wind resistance is in reality quite small when compared to what would experienced at a higher speed.
That is if you were to double your speed the wind resistance would be increased by 400 percent. and that would be massive.
Cheers . winston66
:think1 :think1 So no riding at 200kph with a trailer in WA :well Damn :'(
-
I'm lead to beleive (Teardrop trailer tragic for many years) the original teardrop trailers were made from old aeroplane wings cut into sections, they were cheap and they basically put an axle under them.
google teardrop trailers and start to dream. Thinking of building one to go behind the hotrod (finish car first)
In short Sicman, Winston has less drag when towing like Steveo said.
-
:||||
...... economy went from an
average of say 18.5 Klm. per liter for one up ,It dropped down to an average of about 15.0 Klm. per litr. Whilst towing.....
Just had my first tour (around 400km) with the Elite camper behind the ST1300. Fuel economy went from 16.5km/litre down to 13.5km/litre.
The ST1300 has around 1,800km on it now, still being new, perhaps the economy will improve some more as it loosens up. Having said that, I'm pretty happy with that so far, as the CB1300's fuel consumtion was more in the 15.0 to 15.5km/litre.
Despite the ST being approx. 80kg more than the CB, the fuel consumption is better. I put this down to the fully faired and taller geared ST. The CB was revving at around 4,000rpm at 100km/h, compared to the ST at around 3,200rpm - I have not worked this out as yet as I'm sure the speedo is reading over by 5 or 6km/h at 100km/h.
Perhaps someone can enlighten me on this point.
Back to towing. The CB1300 towed the Classic trailer (100kg) and load (up to another 120kg in trailer) with ease and fuel consumption was around 13.5 to 14km/litre. Close enough to the ST1300 (Elite camper 165kg) and load (another 60kg). Sorry I have to say this but the ST1300 does not seem to have the same GRUNT as the CB1300.
Some hills where the CB would pull well in 5th gear and even a bit in reserve, I find the ST needs to be in 4th (proably the same as the CB's 5th), but then sometimes I need to change back to 3rd. Perhaps that 80kg has an effect here?
Aerodynamics? Well the Elite is as aerodymanic as a brick, because it is a BRICK!! Probably would get a lot better economy towing the Classic with it's rounded, smooter, lower profile. The Teardrop camper trailer would probably be better again.
I missed where the mass of the Teardrop was mentioned (if it was). Any ideas on that point?
-
Winsto66.
Hello everyone, I have just checked the gross weigh and as it stands in the driveway ,fully loaded with beer, esky, ice , tinned supplies for a week; gass cooker, 5 liters of spare fuel, 6 liters of water and all the needed personal stuff. spare wheel and a assortment of tools, bedding , etc.and all the extra shit that you could ever want, it tips the scales at 190 Kg , including the 10 Kg draw bar weight.
How does that sound.
Cheers , winston66
Ps as an aside I figure that as the ST is fairly highly geared this seems to help the fuel economy as it does not have to exceed 4000 rpm. which seems to me to be just coming into a sweet spot , Which is at just about one half of the available rev range capability of this motor, and If I drive in 4 th. gear for any length of time , but not through the ups and downs the fuel consumed is increased.
Ie it uses less in top gear, if you are not pushing it , without lugging.
After all that is what a gear box is for.
-
Just had my first tour (around 400km) with the Elite camper behind the ST1300. Fuel economy went from 16.5km/litre down to 13.5km/litre.
an average of say 18.5 Klm. per liter for one up ,It dropped down to an average of about 15.0 Klm. per litr. Whilst towing.
A lot seemed to be dependent on how heavy I was on the throttle whilst accelerating and if there was a stiff head wind or not, as well as to
Seems comparable to my 1100 figures when towing.
The classic trailer which I've had since Jan 2011 is a little larger than than my first trailer and I have noticed a change in consumption as well.
But generally around 15k/L is the norm now with throttle lock on and just letting it run and it will sit between 90 to a 100 kph (3000rpm +/-).
-
All good answers :clap. I was in the Air cadets years ago so was interested to see who in here was aware of why the tear drop trailers are shaped like they are. The air plane wing effect helps to push the trailer along and thereby reduce the drag effect of the larger front end i.e saves fuel.
-
People worry about the flat front end causing drag, it's not the front but the back end that causes so much drag as the air tries to come back together. (Follow a big Pantech truck and watch it swurl up dust from the side of the road. If you ride 25me behind you will feel the buffeting, ride 100me behind and you will be back in still air.) The flat front of a Kenworth truck builds up a buffer of relatively still air in front of it and the rest goes around this and down the sides, under/over the truck. The air going through the radiator is moving at around 1/5th of the road speed (20Km/h at 100Km/h) and this has the effect of making the engine run hotter than common sense would think. (Note the scoop under the bumper of some trucks). Air can be though of like a liquid (eg water) in its flow patterns, so think about the back of a yatch and how it is smoothly shaped. Bikes are very 'dirty' when it comes to smooth flow with a lot of turbulence behind them. Hard to explain without drawings.
:bl11
-
A yacht doesn't get blown along it is sucked as the air pressure on the non wind side is twice the pressure hence we get so much buffeting behind the screen, air is trying to fill the vacuum.
-
....
Dont forget that we are limited to 100 Kph. whilst towing, and if this speed is observed the effective wind resistance is in reality quite small when compared to what would experienced at a higher speed.
That is if you were to double your speed the wind resistance would be increased by 400 percent. and that would be massive.
Cheers . winston66
:think1 :think1 So no riding at 200kph with a trailer in WA :well Damn :'(
:13Candy
-
Great trailer project, Winston! I like the way that you have taken advantage of the basic trailer, you have come up with your own adaptation of it, and you have actually taken the project to it's final stage (by building it).
There are some great 4WD camper trailers out there that allow you to quickly set them up for over night stops, and have quick access to kitchens for roadside meals. They can also then be set up for longer stays (with their annexes, etc). Something that is harder to do with the size limitations of a m'bike trailer.
An expanding trailer is a good idea. I have noticed the lost area of the draw bar that needs space to clear the bikes' panniers while maneuvering the bike. This space can be used when the trailer isn't being towed; as you have done.
:thumbs
-
Thanks for the nice comments everyone.
I must admit that I do like doing this sort of thing, It stops me from watching the grass grow.
I am now on to my third trailer build in two years.
What I want all this stuff for is a question that I cannot answer.
I just just that I am curious as to how all these thing will work and the only way that I can find out is to make something and then try it out.
I want this one for next years trip to the Nationals and then the rest of the trip around the paddock on the way home .
I figure the teardrop design whilst it is everything that I could have hoped for, it will increase the fuel consumption a fair bit over the anticipated 20,000 klms. and so a more fuel efficient design will probably pay for the new build.
Also by having less cargo space I will not be halling as much (probably unneeded stuff)
My poor old dad used to tell me that the easiest and most useful stuff to carry when on a trip is MONEY
This latest build is going to be a mono wheel one with a very streamlined profile.
I have most of the body profile laid out already ,using 5 mm. round rod as the basic for the frame material , and I am using a discarded scooter chassis complete with the telescopic forks and its front wheel as the basis of the new chassis.
The towing coupling arrived today. I am using a ADR approved 2000 Kg assembly, Which is totally overbuilt for this application , but the RTA. regs" cannot be circumvented so I have taken the easiest way out for me and bought a a standard 4 Wd. Poly block coupling and when fitted I will just weld it solid in the vertical plane so that the trailer will stay upright as it follows along behind the ST.
Some pics. will be posted shortly as the build progresses and there is something interesting to see.
Cheers , Winston66, Northampton W.A.
-
Some years ago mono wheel trailers were advertised for sale.
They couldn't be registered in the ACT because the trailer (the distance between the rear lights) wasn't wide enough.
I don't remember the brand but I remember that Barry bought one for his BMW in Victoria.
Do other states mandate a minimum distance between the rear lights on trailers, mono or otherwise?
-
There has been an amendment to the ADR, Qld. which I believe that the other states have accepted.
IB-12A states It will be acceptable for the rear lighting fitted to these specific single wheeled trailers to comply with the requirements for motorcycle ADR. lighting requirements.Etc.
Specificatly The separation of the rear indicator lights require the inner lenses to be at least 240 mm. apart, etc,etc,
The UNI-GO brand name gets a specific mention and because of the lack of body width.
The inspectors are issued with a directive that they are not to issue a Defect Notice if the vehicles non compliance aspect is the above mentioned technical non compliance with the ADR's
So it figures , that the Sauce for the Goose is , sauce for the Gander.
I think that I will be Ok.
Cheers ,
Winston66
-
Look forward to viewing pics when you have them Winston!! :thumbsup
-
As an aside to my previous post, a trailer must be fitted with a regular sized number plate.
These plates measure 370mm. in width.
I have designed the bum of this single wheel trailer to accommodate this and also have an extra bulge ,or extension each side of the number plate of about another 70mm.
This will provide plenty of room for the fitting of the LED. lighting clusters (stop, & tail,& the turning indicators). that I am making up.
The tail or running lights will be a dual dual operational, and will work in conjunction with the stop lights ie, increase in brightness,and act also as stop lights,with the other,(4) separate stop lights.
I am planning to mount this stop tail, light, cluster (A total of eight individual eagle eye 3 watt leds,) across the full width of the rear of the trailer and they will be positioned nice and high above the number plate. They should be very easily seen.
The indicators will be mounted slightly lower, at the sides of the number plate.
Now I guess that it is all as clear as mud.
Cheers Winston66