Due to the Diesel influence, I have again taken some bodywork off the ST11 in anticipation of doing some tidying up of the current separate wires all going up the front.. So the rough plan is:
Up the front area are/will be to powered:
HID hi/lo beams (existing OEM H4 plugs untouched so H4 bulbs can be put in if required if the parallel wired hi/lo HIDs fail inconveniently)
HID euro beam spotlights
heated grips using those heated panels under the grips
at least one power socket (already on the bike) but I may add another one right up the front
The wiring plan:
use a dirty big red wire to take main power from the battery towards the front
put 40amp inline fuse in said wire near the battery (I may only use a 30amp fuse in the end - it is just protection in case the wire shorts somewhere before the new fuse box)
put in a 40amp relay up the front to turn power in red wire on/off (I may end up using a 30amp relay, I just happen to have a 40amp relay sitting around)
use an exisitng switch to turn relay on/off
install fuse box after relay to which all devices up the front are connected
In all a couple of existing relays and inline fuses will all be integrated.
The aim: simpler wiring going up the front on the left hand side, less messy connections near the battery, ability to turn off power to the front devices off when the ignition switch is turned on but still retain ignition powered protection to stop the battery going flat if something is left on (mainly the grips as most times I can see the lights are on). HID spots still only come on when hi beam is engaged.
Just have to find a place to put the new fuse box. After going out and
I will position it on the removable black plastic garnish under the headlight - just two allen key screws hold it on, so even easier to check fuses than removing the sidecover.
I will also be testing the current draw on the circuit using an old ammeter I had lying around. It will be interesting to see what the constant and peak power draws are for the HID heading and spotlights. I am hoping less that the guage of wire I am using
Of course I only remembered I had the ammeter after I removed all the existing relays and wiring, so I should have tested each light before removing and worked out what wiring and fuses I needed
The other powered devices are less of an issue. The Zumo is powered on the right hand side along with the McCruise, and the wires from the Zumo have to go the the autocom in the rear anyway. The UHF is in the tail but needs to go directly to the battery to minimise the chance of interferance in the audio.
Stay tuned. If I go quite either the new bits have been delayed, or it does not work
