My 1100 is having a minor make-over

[alans1100]

Now that the rear tyre as in this post http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=447.msg104859#msg104859 is in need of replacement I've decided to take the bike off the road for a few weeks though not until the end of March.

It seems the best price I can get new fitted tyre at the local Bridgestone tyre dealer in town for $270 for a T30r GT in a 1300 rear size which is only $25 more than the US.

I've held off doing the oil/filter change and clutch fluid so that I can also do the driving lights install (waiting on mounts) and rear tyre all while the bike is off the road. There's also a couple of parts (dash panel and lens) I bought off of Shane to be fitted.   

[Grumpy]

alan

The mounts will be posted mon 16/3.

Cheers
Grumpy 

[alans1100]

The mounts will be posted mon 16/3.

Thanks but even when I get them I'll still be waiting until I get them powder coated..... Take them over to Port Pirie on the 18th and pick them up two weeks later.

[alans1100]

Yesterday I rang the Port Augusta dealer and ordered the three O rings for the final drive and I should have them sometime late next week; cost about $20 posted.
Today I ordered the tyre from the local tyre dealer for a change. I went with the T30r in 1100 OEM size and that should arrive Wednesday; cost $270. It won't hurt to compare the standard and 1300 GT spec tyre in regards to difference if any in KM travelled.

We have a trip to Port Pirie on Monday 30th and then the bike is off the road for a couple weeks.

[alans1100]

Removed the rear wheel in readiness for a tyre change tomorrow: if the ordered tyre arrives as expected.

Plus I decided to paint the light mounts myself rather than get them powder coated.

[alans1100]

New tyre was fitted today but still waiting on O rings.....Delay in Honda parts system it seems so I'll fit them when they arrive since I need practice in removing wheels it seems.

After inspecting the visible parts of the cush drive I find one rubber with a hairline crack on top and I though ok until next tyre change, however, I notice two of the inserts weren't sitting where they should be. I intended to service the cush drive on the next tyre change but it's going to be much sooner. The five screws that hold the retainer plate in also need to be done and I also found where the O ring on the wheel is supposed to go.

The first time I took the wheel I thought it funny there was a machined groove which didn't seem to be needed on the wheel centre. I always wondered why those bolts were rounded off but they didn't seem to be getting worse but it looks like that sometime during the 1st 100,000 km the O ring had failed and not replaced during previous tyre changes.



In the process of putting it all back together I cleaned the back wheel and then Heather started on the front one and left it for me to finish. Wonder how long they'll stay clean for. Photographic evidence to say it happened..lol





The only other thing that needed checking was the coolant level. A little low but no over heating or leaks so it might be just normal operating level. All the lights still work and even the brakes.......lol

[spanner]

Did you need to remove the tow bar when you took the rear tyre off?

[Biggles]

Is this another crack?

[alans1100]

Did you need to remove the tow bar when you took the rear tyre off?

Yes for the classic towbar that I have on but In did have a tyre change done after I first fitted the bar and on the bike lifter they left the bar on. A plate on the lifter under the rear wheel was removed and they dropped the tyre down. Doing it that way also meant no need to remove the rear fender either. But doing the changeover on the ground means the rear fender must come off to get the wheel out.   

[alans1100]

Is this another crack?

No.....the only crack (split) is a hair line one on top of a rubber part out of picture.

[alans1100]

With a little info from members on the phoenix site I have found the issue that caused the wear to occur on the screws in the picture.

A missing thrust washer which is supposed to go between the drive flange and the wheel centre surrounding the bearing. That washer was never there when I first took the wheel off myself. if it was missing or needed changing then the dealer's mechanic who did the tyre change at the time should have notified me.

Parts for the repair will cost around $150 from my local dealer........worst case is a new wheel......hope not

[Yorkie]

This is the reason I stress we must remove and replace the wheels ourselves, other people don't give a stuff about your bike.

[alans1100]

Driving light mounts painted yesterday - should be fitted sometime during the week.



and the spacers

[alans1100]

I had some spare time this morning and installed the light mounts that Grumpy made.

First up is to knock off the mirror housing and let it hang and then remove the bolts securing the mirror.....I missed a pic or two so I'm holding the mirror in place.



Once the mirror is removed the little filler panel needs to be removed. There's a black plastic retainer that needs to be taken out but mine have been there since new and it broke in the process so I just pulled the panel off.



I've placed the top bolt, 10mm spacer and mount per instruction



The bottom ones have now been put in.



After tightening the bolts it looked like the next two pictures





To see what's it like with the light on (and to show Heather) I temporally put one light in place. The bike will off of the road after Easter for the rest of the install.

[spanner]

nice one ... even I should be able to follow that

[alans1100]

There was nothing better to do today than play around with the bike with parts of it scattered far and wide (on top of the trailer). The loosely planned task today was to install the wiring for the HID lights but first I had to remove the wiring from a previous set. I removed the lights when I did the timing belt and rerouted the wiring to the mirrors for a future driving light install. The new wiring loom was more suited to the task so I decided to swap it over.

Removing the wiring ended up needing to remove the LH filler panel, the screen and the plastic parts that cover the dash wiring. Thinking if I've gone that fat I may as well go for broke and swap out the instrument lens and the black dash pane which meant the RH filler panel, fake tank handle bar cover and the grey panel surrounding the instrument cluster.

Removed the old wiring and put the new wiring in. The lights are loosely mounted and wiring is attached and awaiting connection and mirrors back in position. In no particular order the screws and bolts needed to remove the parts to be replaced as well as the speedo cable connection. There were a couple of wiring connectors but I couldn't undo them so some creative positioning/angling of the gauges allowed undoing the needed screws and for tightening when putting back together.

The two heat stressed parts were replaced and the instruments are reinstalled and by that time it was time to finish for night. I didn't take any pics today but I'll post a couple of the old parts tomorrow.

[alans1100]

Here's the two parts I replaced.

As you can see the lens is not to good and the aftermarket screen (from the UK) put on in Nov 2010 is going the same way. The screen is on the to do list for later this year.



and neither is this one. Main cause is by the higher temps while bike was parked in the sun during the time I/we lived at Port Hedland/Karratha for about 45 months all told.



And the ones I bought from Shane installed.



Then it was time to put the jigsaw puzzle back together again which happened without incident.

The lights were tightened plus I bought extra nuts to be used as lock nuts; made it a little harder for those wanting a free set. I just need to add some back tape to secure the light wiring to the mount which I didn't have at the time (missing in action).





All back together and ready for the electrical hook up which I can't do until I get some more solder. I do have some but unable to find so it can wait until payday. Had I used the stick on switch that was on the harness the lights would be working but I have a on/off switch installed from the previous set I had. The feed wire from the high beam circuit still goes to the switch and all I need is to solder the wire from the switch to the wire going into the relay.



This one taken from the back of car

[alans1100]

As an after thought we touched some of the black that had seen better days.

[saaz]

Really on a roll there Alan    You will have to remember it is your bike as it will look quite different.

[alans1100]

Really on a roll there Alan    You will have to remember it is your bike as it will look quite different.

That's why Heather put my name on the bottom of the screen In gold stick on letters. Other than that the paintwork on the RH side is still faded so I'll know which one it is.

A couple steps closer to being ready for WA

[alans1100]

I'm still waiting on the three O rings for the final drive so I rang them (Northern Motorcycles - Port Augusta) and it looks like they've had issues with Honda supplying parts so they should have them by Friday.

While on the phone I priced the cush drive parts that I need and it came to about $120 plus the cost of posting.

[alans1100]

Oil/Filter change done this afternoon. I noticed the oil had been weeping past the filter seal. The last filter I used was a Z4111 and this time I used one I bought from E-bay and Castrol 4T for the oil.

Clutch fluid also done......which completes the planned work. Hoping to get the cush drive done before our next RTE in May.

[alans1100]

It was a fine and sunny today so I thought it best to connect the HID driving lights into the system while the weather was still good.

This was supposed to be a simple plug and play type install but once wired up the light were a no go.....I did the usual; check fuses, relay was working as I could hear it click and the wiring seemed ok. There was a moment where I suspected the very remote chance of two failed HID globes and in the end I wasn't far off the mark.

This how simple my install was supposed to be. All I needed to do was remove the switch and connect the one I already had on the bike.



Before giving up in disgust I pulled the mirror covers off and checked that end as it was just plug in connections and there was the problem. One side was wired wrong. The white power feed went to the black earth wire on the light......s



So I turned both plugs around to match the black wires.  I used electrical tape to so the plugs would stay together.



and I get this; they work so it wasn't anything I did but the person who did the wiring loom. All that needs to be done is a final alignment when I'm on the road at night.

[Grumpy]

Looks great Alan. it's always something silly and simple. 

Just a suggestion, but you might want to black out the edges of the perspex covers and the tabs as well. I found that the perspex transmitted the light back towards me and it was a little distracting.

Hope they work as well as mine

Good job

Cheers
Grumpy   

[saaz]

Agree with grumpy. I just put tape on mine. The reflections on the tabs are really distracting at night

Looks great Alan. it's always something silly and simple. 

Just a suggestion, but you might want to black out the edges of the perspex covers and the tabs as well. I found that the perspex transmitted the light back towards me and it was a little distracting.

Hope they work as well as mine

Good job

Cheers
Grumpy