New Tyre

[alans1100]

Nothing will change the ST torque curve, its very flat, many have tried various expensive methods but nothing works.

On the 1100, I rarely change down, even going through the hills, just wind on throttle as required.

I find same for 1300 as well - only significant bit of road around here that goes up hill is over at Horrocks Pass otherwise 5th gear is good for everything out of town. 

[Williamson]

On the 1100, I rarely change down, even going through the hills, just wind on throttle as required.

I find same for 1300 as well - only significant bit of road around here that goes up hill is over at Horrocks Pass otherwise 5th gear is good for everything out of town.

If that's the case, you guys would've loved the CB1300.

..... whereas on the ST 3rd gear is used frequently, and 2nd gear is also needed at times - if riding is spirited. 

Might explain my high fuel consumption averaging around 6.0 litres / 100km, and my tyre wear.

.... only significant bit of road around here that goes up hill is over at Horrocks Pass ..... 

Mmmmm ............ a lovely bit of road, but it may be explained by the 55km/h (advisory signed) curves through Horrocks Pass (4th gear?), compared to the some of the roads around Noojee with 20km/h (advisory signed) curves - a bit low for 3rd, 4th or 5th gear.

[Biggles]

The ST1300 just sings going up most mountains in third gear, only needing 2nd for the tightest hairpin bends.

[Williamson]

The ST1300 just sings going up most mountains in third gear, only needing 2nd for the tightest hairpin bends.

 

[alans1100]

An interesting time on the 13 was had this afternoon.

With the expected arrival of one new rear tyre I decided to pull the rear wheel out and knowing that it being the first time for me on the 1300 I expected it somewhat easier than it was. The only part that went as it should was removing the rear mud guard with perhaps the RH muffler as easy because it had been loosened off last year by the dealer for the tyre change I got them to do; except the clamps could have been a little tighter.

The LH side was a different story and the same as the 1100 except that I couldn't loosen the caliper retaining bolt with the same 14 mm spanner that I use on the 1100; even tapping the spanner with a hammer it didn't move so it was time for the ratchet and socket but that meant I had to move the LH muffler out the way to get at the bolt.

I sprayed the clamp bolts and loosened them off and then the other two (1100 has only one) bolts and moved the muffler out of the way. One ratchet and a 14 mm socket later it was out and then it was time to attack the axle but no axle spanner in the bike's tool kit so out to the 1100 for it's tool kit and the 27 mm spanner which is all I need on the 1100 but I couldn't budge the nut. Tapped the spanner with the hammer and just got it to move but it's so tight I can barely move it; and that's where I got until I can see if I can borrow a 27 mm socket or spanner from the tyre dealer in town.

All I can say is that the two bolts must have been torqued which I never do on the 1100.

I'll be looking at getting a 27 mm (maybe 24 mm for the front) socket or spanner just for the 1300.

[Brock]

The previous tyre change may have been done with a rattle gun, so un-neccesary for a bike.

[alans1100]

Also noticed a couple of rusty bolts holding up the mufflers but they can wait until the next tyre change.

Getting a ratchet spanner or something like this




for the 1300. Should have done it years ago for the 1100 but the supplied spanners in the tool kit were enough.

I checked the front axle bolt as well and it's different size to the 1100 which uses a 24 mm spanner where the 1300 uses a 22 mm but I have a socket for that.

[alans1100]

After borrowing a 27 mm spanner from the tyre dealer I managed to get the nut loose but only after discovering that I needed an Allen key to hold the axle from the other side which is different to the 1100 set up. I still couldn't loosen the nut until said Allen key had a 1 metre pipe off cut placed onto it for more leverage.

The how to in the owners manual only mentions to remove the rear mud guard and remove the caliper retaining bolt and axle nut and reverse the method for reinstall and of course the torque numbers for tightening it up.

The only other hassle I had was getting the caliper mount free so I could get the wheel out; I had to tap it up with a hammer to even move it and then there's very little room to place it when you do get it out. It's all to easy on the 1100; do you think I'm biased?

Anyway the wheel is down at the tyre dealer and with the tyre having arrived today I could have it back late this afternoon or tomorrow.

[Williamson]

An interesting time on the 13 was had this afternoon.

With the expected arrival of one new rear tyre I decided to pull the rear wheel out and knowing that it being the first time for me on the 1300 I expected it somewhat easier than it was. The only part that went as it should was removing the rear mud guard with perhaps the RH muffler as easy because it had been loosened off last year by the dealer for the tyre change I got them to do; except the clamps could have been a little tighter.

The LH side was a different story and the same as the 1100 except that I couldn't loosen the caliper retaining bolt with the same 14 mm spanner that I use on the 1100; even tapping the spanner with a hammer it didn't move so it was time for the ratchet and socket but that meant I had to move the LH muffler out the way to get at the bolt.

I sprayed the clamp bolts and loosened them off and then the other two (1100 has only one) bolts and moved the muffler out of the way. One ratchet and a 14 mm socket later it was out and then it was time to attack the axle but no axle spanner in the bike's tool kit so out to the 1100 for it's tool kit and the 27 mm spanner which is all I need on the 1100 but I couldn't budge the nut. Tapped the spanner with the hammer and just got it to move but it's so tight I can barely move it; and that's where I got until I can see if I can borrow a 27 mm socket or spanner from the tyre dealer in town.

All I can say is that the two bolts must have been torqued which I never do on the 1100.

I'll be looking at getting a 27 mm (maybe 24 mm for the front) socket or spanner just for the 1300.

After borrowing a 27 mm spanner from the tyre dealer I managed to get the nut loose but only after discovering that I needed an Allen key to hold the axle from the other side which is different to the 1100 set up. I still couldn't loosen the nut until said Allen key had a 1 metre pipe off cut placed onto it for more leverage.

The how to in the owners manual only mentions to remove the rear mud guard and remove the caliper retaining bolt and axle nut and reverse the method for reinstall and of course the torque numbers for tightening it up.

The only other hassle I had was getting the caliper mount free so I could get the wheel out; I had to tap it up with a hammer to even move it and then there's very little room to place it when you do get it out. It's all to easy on the 1100; do you think I'm biased?

Anyway the wheel is down at the tyre dealer and with the tyre having arrived today I could have it back late this afternoon or tomorrow.

Phew!!!   Thanks for reminding me why I take the ST13 to the tyre fitter.  And you're only half-way through the job.

[alans1100]

Since the rear wheel is out I thought it a good time to grease up the caliper and the pad retainer pin needed an extension on the Allen key to loosen it so I could get the pads out to separate the caliper. All good to go with new pads needed within the next 5 or 6,000 km.

[alans1100]

Phew!!!   Thanks for reminding me why I take the ST13 to the tyre fitter.  And you're only half-way through the job.

Call it a learning thing - next time will be quicker.

[alans1100]

All done and ready to roll though I did have a hassle getting the caliper back in place.

While the caliper was apart the little retainer bracket fell out and though I did put it back it was in the wrong way and I wondered why the caliper wouldn't go back in place. Once the error was discovered and fixed it drop into place and somewhat easier than removing it.

Apart from needing new pads and replacing a couple of rusty bolts all seems ok at the back end.

The rear BT54 that I replaced managed 10,500 km which on average is 2,000 better that I get on the 1100.

[alans1100]

Time for my first 1300 front tyre change over with a T31 GT ordered today and with luck should be here for Friday. Cost for the front is $219.

 

[Itdepends]

Theres a few o ringsthat should be replaced when doing the rear and its a good idea to clean and regrease the splines and check the wheel bearings at the same time.

Honestly the only thing that I find a little tricky with the 1300 rear is getting the spline engaged to get the wheel into place when refitting.

The front is a bit more interesting, after I’ve unbolted everything I get the better half to pull the front tyre out while I lean on the rear seat (with the bike on the centre stand and previously jacked up to just below the teeter point). That lets me get the front tyre out without messing about and taking the front mudguard off.

[alans1100]

Theres a few o ringsthat should be replaced when doing the rear and its a good idea to clean and regrease the splines and check the wheel bearings at the same time.

Honestly the only thing that I find a little tricky with the 1300 rear is getting the spline engaged to get the wheel into place when refitting.

The front is a bit more interesting, after I’ve unbolted everything I get the better half to pull the front tyre out while I lean on the rear seat (with the bike on the centre stand and previously jacked up to just below the teeter point). That lets me get the front tyre out without messing about and taking the front mudguard off.

O rings were ok but next time I'll more than likely change them plus with hopefully a little more time I can check the cush drive while I'm at at.

Our 1100 still has all but one of the original wheel bearings at 219,000 km so at the moment not a big concern.

I'm used to removing the front half of the 1100A mudguard and Heather usually gives it a clean and the 1300 mudguard will most likely come off

The rear caliper gave me an impression of not quite releasing after brakes were released but after a pad inspection and the caliper greased it seems to be better.

Front calipers will be getting greased up as well and the pad inspection will determine if new pads are needed sooner rather than later; estimated 5000-10,000 km left on the rear pads.

----------------------------

New tyre arrived on Tuesday and getting fitted next Wednesday and ready for a trip to the city on the weekend.

between now and then I need to replace the serpentine/drive/fan belt on the territory.

[alans1100]

Front wheel is down at the tyre dealer for the tyre change which I should be able to pick up tomorrow.

I didn't notice any front suspension anti-dive unit like there is on the 1100 so maybe they've done it a different way.

Normally I wouldn't remove both calipers to remove the wheel but this time I want to grease up the pins on the calipers. Just as well because it took some effort to remove them both. Similar to the rear as that too was difficult to remove and the sound of a possible pad binding on the disc went away.

Front pad wear was much the same as the rear and might last another 5,000-10000 km and not urgent like I was expecting.

Heather wants to repaint the silver on the lower fork legs front but I put her off because of the wind and that it would be better in Tammie's garage the next time the wheel comes out.

[alans1100]

One 1300A now back on the road.

Both calipers were greased and not to easy to separate either; especially the LH one. Unlike the 1100A this side has an extra brake hose which means the halves of the caliper stay together even when apart.

Wheel went back in fairly easy but the Axle bolt was harder to do up than the 1100A.

Calipers went on a lot easier than they come off even though I did forget to push the LH pistons back in and wondered why the inner pad wasn't to easy to slide.

Previous tyre was an Angel GT fitted by the WA dealer after I bought the bike and it was replaced after doing 14,125 km.

Brakes seemed to have improved slightly after a couple test stops.

[Gadget]

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