What oil do ya throw in ya steed?

[Diesel]

For me it's the Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T (10W-40).

Now it all depends on your climate as to What-W What you use - but I'll be changing brands next time. It seems a little clunky and rattly this oil.

I had a fair bit of success with turbo-rated diesel oil (go ahead! laugh!). It has what they call a great 'crush' value, which means that when it is wrung through the gears, it doesn't break down as much. Some oils are no good after only 1,500kms!

This guy is the oil guru - he'll tell you all about 'em:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

And here is a REALLY detailed link on oil for you retired folks with heaps of time on your hands.... (okay, okay - I've read it too!):
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html


Whatever you use - you KNOW it cannot contain friction modifiers don't you (wet clutch!)

Got a good oil? Don't forget to make it obvious whether you're an 11 or 13 pilot too!    ;)

Cheers, Diesel - ST1300

[saaz]

ST1100 here!

I have found the 15W-40 diesel rated oils really good for the standard Honda change interval (I trie a 10W-40 and it did not stand up as well as the 15W-40 - gearbox felt more clunky).  Just make sure it has the petrol engine ratings on it (SN, SM etc) as the oils used in japanese diesles are not suitable for petrol engines. Ones for Detroit diesels are ok (even Sunshine Coast Diesels!)  The synthetic versions of these oils you may have read about are also great, but way too expensive in Australia.

Of late I have been using castrol Edge 10W-60, winter (Canberra winter) and summer.  Easily lasts the Honda 12,500kms oil change interval and beyond.  More expensive than the diesel oils (well double if you buy the 20 litre drums of diesel oil), but I have a stock of it as I use it in the car as well (5.7 litre V8 Statesman).

[rendog]

When I repaired the waterpump I also checked the plugs and looked at the piston tops.
There was a tad of black crunchy goop there, so I've upped my oil to 20W-50.
I've also gone back to the mineral based oil as it burns easier. (Motul 1000)
Might be time for some valve stem seals. Hmmm.

A side effect of the thicker oil is it starts quicker.
The ST1300 will not fire until the ECU registers oil pressure.  ;)

[Brock]

I use Valvoline 20W50 at the moment, it seems to do the job. It doesnt get cold enough in the West of Oz to need a 10 weight oil

[Rodd]

I think that I put in the same oil as you, Diesel. My ST1100 is usually clunky and I don't like it.
It shifts better in cold weather than it does when it's warm!

[Mark]

Well, I am still new to this bike (2001 Honda ST1100PY) but the guy I purchased it from had Rockingham Sports bike shop service the bike, they had put Belray EXP 15-50 oil in (semi synth), I found that as soon as my bike is up to full heat, the gears appeared a little sticky and it was a bugger to get it into neutral, so I asked my Honda dealership what oil should go in it. They said they only put the Genuine Honda HP4 10W-30 (Semi Synth) into the ST1100's as they are a performance engine (Racing bike??). I asked about the W rating being so low at 10, the service guy said it was perfect for Perth WA temps, plus he said that Honda just keep changing the numbers, but the oil is the same.

That made a lot of difference to me for sure, the sticky gears now come in before the bike is even at full heat, what a bonus that was. When I then followed up with the Honda shop, they suggested I get the bike in a strip the clutch (They would I guess).

The bike does sometimes slip into neutral OK even when it is hot, but more often than not, I get to sit at the traffic lights flicking the gearshift up, down, up, down, up,,, Oh you get the idea.  ::)

I will be giving the Valvoline a go next change (I will not be waiting the 6 months either, it is a little tiresome needing to turn the engine off before I can get it into neutral each time).

So I can only confirm what I have not been happy with so far, sorry for the negativity.  (Except to say that the Belray EXP was far superior to the Honda HP4, though still sticky gears when hot)

[Couch]

When I changed my oil & filter at 12,000kls I decided to go for the genuine Honda recommended oil, but when I went to buy it from the service dept of the local Honda dealer the service manager said, "do you particularly want to use the Honda oil?", my reply was, "why, what do you recommend", his reply was...........we use Yamalube Semi-Synthetic 10-40 because we believe it's the best and we've have never had a problem with it...................So, that's what I use...........Yamalube Semi-Synthetic 10-40. Mileage is now at 16,500kls, gear change etc is as smooth as silk & haven't used a drop of oil.

It was only a little more expensive than an alternative from Super Cheap, and lets face it, we only change our oil every 12,000kls....at least I do anyway, so the additional cost amounts to very little!

This isn't to say that a cheaper oil wouldn't do the same job..................but I believe it's like most things we buy................quality remains long after the price is forgotten!

This is my ten cents worth anyway,  :D

Cheers,
Couch

[Diesel]

This is the oil filter I have been using lately - works well....



And last time, they threw in a magnetic sump plug as well.

That works.

I have a special 'claw' that grabs onto the filter now - but you can see that a socket and extension would make light work of the (sometimes nigh on impossible) task of removing it.

Cheers, Diesel

[Couch]

Nice one Diesel................anything that helps in getting the filter off is certainly a bonus.    I like that idea.............where did you pick it up from mate? 

[Diesel]

Nice one Diesel................anything that helps in getting the filter off is certainly a bonus.    I like that idea.............where did you pick it up from mate? 

G'day Couch - I got it from the ubiquitous marketplace......

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KN-204-K-N-PERFORMANCE-OIL-FILTER-HONDA-ST1300-02-09-/390293767618?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5adf5245c2

Not too bad a price either - but be patient - takes a while from England.

Cheers

[Mark]

Re: a special 'claw' that grabs onto the filter

I nearly crushed my filter when trying to get it off using a small filter wrench, I thought that the shop that put in on may have super glued it because it was stuck in so firm, but I ended up using a tool not made to remove my filter, and it worked first time, with ease.

As a sparky I have a tool called a "Footprint", well actually I think you call them a pair of footprints, anyway, it is a "Footprint wrench" tool that is used for putting on and off large steel electrical conduits (Pipes), and opens easily to fit the O/D of my filter on the ST1100, plus I can get in with this tool without removal of the middle fairing.
 I wonder if they actually plan to put these parts in the most awkward spots they can? A bit like the radiator cap on the ST1100, another 3cm left and you could get to it by removing the petrol tank cover only...

[Brock]

when fitting an oil filter, place a small amount of oil on the rubber seal and smear it around. Screw the filter on until the seal bottoms nad tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Dont force it, no need for tools to refit, and if done correctly it will come of easily next time.

[Diesel]

Here is the 'claw' I mentioned - the tighter you turn it - the tighter she grips the filter cartridge casing at three points. I only put them on gently with the film of oil as Brock has rightly pointed out - but this one's a tiger if she stuck good n proper....



Cheers, Diesel

[saaz]

I use a cheap adjustable strap oil filter tool for taking the filters off, if required.  Most times they will come off by hand, as you don't have to put them on that hard.  Same as I have always done on my cars.

[Malcolm6112]

I prefer the belt type. It has a square tube attached so you use a 1/2" drive ratchet.
I got genuine filters from the states for US$8.49.

[Couch]

Thanks for the info Diesel.............just placed an order for one.

[STOM1100]

You can get the honda special tool for as little as $14.00 It works well.

[Marcus]

I dunno, Never Done it, don't even know where the whole is... I figure It'll get changed every service...

[Mark]

You can get the honda special tool for as little as $14.00 It works well.

I purchased a pack of three Honda Filters from David Silver Spares (UK) with a bunch of other items. And they sent a honda removal tool with each filter. The cast alloy head that sits on the top of the filter and allows a wrench to be used.

When I did this oil and filter change though, I managed to get it off with my hands (was tight, but eased off OK), seeing as when I did it the last time I put the oil filter on to hand tight.

I did not use one of my new Honda filters this time (even though I just picked up three), I gave the one that Brock suggested a go (The Repco one designed for Mazda and ford). The Repco filter appears slightly heavier than the Honda ones, probably made with a better filter element than the OEM one.

The Diesel oil works well. The gear change does appear smoother, and the engine appears to "sound" a little smoother too, though that may be just wishful thinking.

After reading the other tip about oil levels, I may drop some out. I have it at the top marker, but the suggestion that having the oil level half way between the top and bottom oil level glass markers, give a smoother running engine, sounds like it is worth a go.

If it there are any issues, having the 5 Litre Penrite oil, has left me with plenty of spare.

[Couch]

My filter arrived today Diesel..................thanks for the info mate.   It did take a little while to get here but I haven't been waiting on it so not a problem. Probably should have brought a couple of them......never mind......maybe next time!

Thanks for the info Diesel.............just placed an order for one.

[Diesel]

Sweeeet. It should do good for ya Couch.

Is it true that the ST13 manual only recommends filter/oil changes every 12,000km?

Anyone else heard this?

[Malcolm6112]

You are correct Diesel. The maintenance schedule on page 82 of the owners manual says every 12K.

Shouldn't be an issue if you run full synthetic oil.

 

[saaz]

Same as the ST11, 12,400kms oil and filter/or 12 months whichever come first.  That is with plain old oil.

[Couch]

Yep.......it's true Diesel..........12,000kls betwen oil & filter changes for the ST13......and if Honda recommends it, then it shouldn't be a problem. But personally I'd make sure of using a good quality semi synthetic or synthetic oil. As I mentioned in a previous post I use Yamalube Semi Synthetic!

Is it true that the ST13 manual only recommends filter/oil changes every 12,000km?

Anyone else heard this?

[Diesel]

I am thinking of maybe doing next oil 2000 kms early and changing every 10 000 kms

Good thinking Gavo - I was thinking something similar - that way you'd basically ensure those 200-300,000 km milages out of these gems that you hear about.

I think Malcolm has an OEM filter or two for a great price + postage if anyone's interested.... Mal?

For me, next time - it's def semi - maybe fully synthetic and a 15W40 weight. As I once heard, with the thicker oil, you get better starting as the FI will only fire once (correct) oil pressure is registered.

Just a little hard paying upwards of $95 for 5 litres of synthetic, when you can get semi for around $60-$65.

At least it's changed every 12K kms instead of 5K!!!!