oils ain't oils?

[creeture3]

Hi folks. Cruising the interweb and found this:

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

A bit hard to read, but quite interesting. I have been using the Durablend in both cars and bikes for years now.

[Biggles]

Excellent read, with practical usable results.  The Penrite 5W-60 looks good.

If you get the next set of tests they promise (in-engine) it will complete the picture.

I've been happy with Shell Helix HX5, but it wasn't tested, since it's a mineral oil.  The Helix synthetics didn't do as well as the better ones, but certainly weren't the worst.

[Gavo]

Here is a hole lot more to filter


http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

[Biggles]

Here is a hole lot more to filter
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Blimey!  There's a lot there to digest!

[alans1100]

Here is a hole lot more to filter
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Blimey!  There's a lot there to digest!

I lost interest after the third paragraph..........information overload...........lol

[Old Steve]

I should emphasise that the certification mentioned in this article is for a passenger car motor oil (PCMO) and the API S classifications apply to PCMOs.  If you're putting oil in a motorbike with a wet clutch then the oil should have an API S classification plus the JASO MA motorcycle classification for an engine oil which will be used in wet clutches.

This FALEX test only tests the antiwear component of the oil package, there are a lot of other functions which the additive package performs (detergency to keep the engine clean, dispersancy to keep contaminants in suspension until drained out, viscosity index improvers to give a multigrade property, and many more).

[saaz]

Old Steve put it well.  The JASO MA specification relies on the main oil standards to ensure oil quality, and then goes on the have more specific test for wet clutch compatability. An oil can meet JASO MA1 or MA2 alone, or if it meets a mix of those two standards the oil will be MA rated.

[Old Steve]

Excellent read, with practical usable results.  The Penrite 5W-60 looks good.

Don't go thinking that a thicker oil should be better.  The engine manufacturer determines what oil viscosity suits the clearances in their engines, and too thick an oil will take longer to circulate on start up (increased wear), will run hotter and will make hydraulic tappets noisier (the thicker oil has trouble getting through to the tappets to act as an hydraulic oil).

Use the viscosity that the OEM recommends!  They will include an ambient temperature vs oil viscosity chart in the owner's manual.  DON'T just use a thicker oil because the viscosity numbers are higher.  Thicker doesn't mean better.

Did you know what viscosity was most commonly used in New Zealand before the Morris Mini came onto the market with it's common engine and transmission lubrication and it's need for an SAE 20W-50 oil because of the lubrication requirements of the transmission gears?  SAE10W-30.  I know in the 90's in NZ, Mitsubishi had no end of problems with bore glazing because the owners and workshops were using an SAE 20W-50 engine oil on the assumption that a thicker oil was better and that left a thicker oil film on the cylinder walls which burnt, glazed and caused high oil consumption.  This also had something to do with the Mitsubishi distributor owning an oil company which had an SAE20W-50 engine oil as it's main product.  Mitsubishi cars using an SAE 15W-40 didn't experience this problem.

[alans1100]

I have Castrol 4T 15W-50 waiting to go in which is the same I used last time and one of the multigrades mentioned for oil that is ok to use.