How to remove the seat without unlocking it

[STutter]

Ever have one of those days where, despite your best intentions, you just go backwards?

Knocked off the front RHS indicator while pushing the bike out.
Wires pulled out of spade connections
No new spade connections lying about
Fiddle with wires and bent spade connections for 15 minutes
Hooray - all connected, testing... mixed up the wires. No blinkers on right or left. Probably fuse blown. Super.
Trudge all the way up to get a screwdriver to take the fairing off.
Come back - my bad, its an allen key. Back up to the shed.
Undo bolt.
Oh, seat is still on. Try to unlock seat and lock starts rotating and not actually unhooking anything. (Thanks, secondhand corbin seat)
Give the whole lot the finger before I break anything else.

So... to fix my blinkers, how do I now get the seat off?  >:(

[West Aussie Glen]

1100 or 1300?

[STutter]

Sorry, 1100

[Tackleberry]

Recently struck this Stutter.  Had a few other jobs to do also, so wasn't worried about removing most of the plastics.  There may be another way, but this is how I did it. 

Take off the panniers to make access a little easier.  Remove both side covers, which can be done by carefully moving them down and away from the connection points.  Did this a couple of times, and reattached them the same way.  Four bolts hold on the rear cowling with the grab rails attached.  Remove bolts for grab rails, and the rear rack on top.  This then removes the whole rear plastic with brake light and blinkers so don't forget the connection.  You can then use a 10mm(?) to undo the bolts that hole in the seat lock, or pull the wire to release your seat and give you access to re-align the cable in the lock, or whatever is required. 

Somebody may have an easier solution, but this only took me about 20-25 minutes when I got the right bolts. 

[STutter]

Sounds like a bit of a mission! Oh well, the bike should probably come off the road on the weekend for a bit of some loving.

Got some new fasteners to replace some cable ties on the front fairing
Needs an oil and filter change
Also need all new caliper seals to be replaced - brakes make a strange, vague crunch sometimes (not good I know). I'd say its the pistons struggling.

Anyway, this is probably the final nail in the coffin - up to the shed with you!

[saaz]

I have the article at home, but Tack's method sounds very close. I had to do the same thing a few years ago (when the cable popped out of the bracket near the seat lock - whoever had done the dual seat conversion had not clicked it in properly, so worth checking), and removing the rear plastic allows enough access to trip the seat lock.

[Brock]

Is it the whole assembly that rotates???, If so you may be able to hold the outside part with a pair of pointy nosed pliers and then use the key to open...

[Tackleberry]

Brock mine was the same as Saaz's description with the wire coming out.  It has a cylindrical piece on the end of the wire that slides in through a circle in the mechanism and then turns at right angles to pull when the key is turned to release the latch.  There are two bolts holding the locking mechanism to the rail under the seat that holds it in place.  If they have come loose this may be the problem. 

[Brock]

I was hoping it was the easier way. Its a bugger to try and get the plastics off with the seat on...

[saaz]

I think that all those with single to dual seat conversions should just check their seat locks for the bolts being tight and that the cable is snapped in properly.

[Tackleberry]

Mine isn't a conversation John.  It's a natural two seater. 

[Greencan]

Oh, seat is still on. Try to unlock seat and lock starts rotating and not actually unhooking anything. (Thanks, secondhand corbin seat)

When you eventually get the Corbin off and replaced / repaired the release cable...have a close look at the 'U' shaped latch on the underside at the back of the Corbin seat and determine whether there is a pronounced wear indentation on the inside of this latch. If so, remove the latch and space the latch with 1 or more washer(s), so that when the seat is returned to the bike, the 'clasp' of the lock completes it's action to close withOUT resistance from the latch.

You'll notice also that either the 'U' shaped latch OR the Corbin baseis slotted so that the latch can be positioned fwd / aft...position this so that 'clasp' of the lock is centred and NOT fowling on the latch.

The Corbin saddle needs to be 'fitted' to each individual bike.

I have had 15 years of uneventful use from mine...too easy.

Ciao, the can :)

[STutter]

Thanks very much on the advice can. I havent put the seat back on, but I'll take a good look now.

The rest of the bike is coming along well. Oil and filter have been changed and am making progress on the brakes. I have all the pistons out on the fronts. Should finish cleaning and reinstall tomorrow morning before work.

Cup of coffee, shed and a motorbike is a good way to start any day!