OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Suspension ST1100 => Topic started by: Bikebear on April 07, 2014, 06:37:49 PM
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So I watch the Dellboy video and think well that's easy and having done the missus fork seals a while ago I set out all confident to disassemble my forks and put new seals in.
Pull forks from bike.. easy.. undo caps and drain oil.. all going fine.. attempt to undo bolts in bottom of forks using a 6mm allen key on a socket drive.. damn .. someone has done them up with a rattle gun or something they are super tight and because they are made of cheese they round out the heads of the bolts. Now I'm gonna have to drill them and use an easy-out to try and undo them. Seriously every video I've seen the bolts crack pretty easily and even the one's on the missus' bike weren't a problem. Seems every time I go to do something it turns to crap. :|||| :cuss
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Don't feel too bad, it has happened to others. And they do come out eventually.
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Evenin' Craig...
That's a bummer :-[...very sorry to hear that.
Reckon though a likely cause for the over-tightened fixing bolt may be a Loctite or similar liberally coated over the threads before it was previously returned...anyway before you attack it with the Black n Decker...and if your able to get hold of a single hex socket (preferably 3/8" drive), I first try a one or two well placed hits directly to the head of the bolt with a hammer and drift punch (rationale: if it has been 'fixed' it, one or two blows ought to help loosen the thread)...then try the single hex socket (rationale: the rounding caused be the double hex should bite on the flats of the single hex).
And if your not going to replace the copper washers...then if you have a source of heat (like a blow lamp / torch), give them a little heat (discolour), to anneal them...and return the bolt with the annealed washers with only a little oil on the thread and wrist tighten...they wont (cant), go anywhere.
Good Luck with it...and if you really get stuck...send me a personal message...I have a Mate near you that may be able to help you :wink1
Cheers the can :-)
Just a thought
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And sometimes an impact driver with a hex socket helps it along a bit (in between hammmer and drift punch, and applying heat)
Good luck!
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Problem is they are allen head bolts so they are a pain to do anything with. I wish people would just torque things to the recommended settings instead of tighter is better.
I'll get them out but it's very annoying that it happens.
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Something like a torxs socket can be hammered in as a tight fit then proceed as above. Even just using a reverse drill bit gets some bolts out with having to use an extractor.
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Craig,
I just replaced the seals in the forks on my 88 GL1500 and had the same problem with one fork. I found that one of my easy-outs fitted perfectly into the hex in the grub screw. But then the piston turned with the grub screw. Lucky for me if you remove the anti dive valve on the the GL you can then insert a phillips screw driver into the piston to stop it from turning. The GL has a long and a short spring in each fork. The big problem for me was getting the springs compressed and starting the fork bolt back in the top of the fork. I made a bracket up as per photo that helped. For the first attempt I only used one racthet strap down one side, through the axle hole up up the other. This made keeping the bracket square very difficult and the top spring popped out htting the brick wall 2 metres away hard enough to embed little pieces of brick in the spring, lucky it was the brick wall and not my head. I then used two ratchet straps but should have also got some one to help me.
Good luck
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l535/West_Aussie_Glen/Goldwing/DSC00782.jpg) (http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/West_Aussie_Glen/media/Goldwing/DSC00782.jpg.html)
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Well.. the easy out did the job, they were bloody tight though. The local dealer is ordering the new bolts and washers and they should be here tomorrow or Thursday.
I've put the new rear shock in (had the aftermarket spring swapped onto it) and ordered new rear brake pads. Just got to put the forks back together, fit the new brake pads, drain the oil, replace the oil filter, put new oil in, balance the carbs, get the new tyres fitted and it'll be right to go. I might sand the fork sliders and repaint them as they have suffered some stone damage to the paint, just not sure whether I will get time to get that ambitious.
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Forks are put together and fitted to the bike and front wheel in as well. Put the volume of oil in as per the manual so we'll see how it goes. Still waiting for the rear brake pads to arrive so I can finish the rear end. Got a Bridgestone T30 front tyre put on the other day and new BT023 on the rear (one of the 2 I bought off Dan when he sold his bike). Only cost me $193 for the new front and to get the rear fitted at the local bike shop so I'm happy.
Still have to do the oil/filter change and carb balance but should be finished that tomorrow. Hope to get a ride or 2 in this week.
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Bike was all put together on Thursday and it hasn't stopped raining since. I'm not keen on hitting slippery wet roads on brand new tyres until I've scrubbed them up a bit to get the release compound off. Hopefully it will ease up this weekend so I can go out and have a bit of fun.
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My update to this section. As noted elsewhere I have done headstem bearings and I have changed the fork oil in both mine and Pezzz's bike. Wot thuh I should say we both worked on them with Hoffy's help. :clap Have other members found a lack of oil in their STeads. Both bikes had about 385-390 mls in the left fork and 285mls in the left instead of 385. :fp This was after Forks being pumped feverishly. :grin I think Pezzz liked that part. Nuff said. What happens in the shed stays in the shed! :rofl Any comments :think1
:wht11
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Hi Wombat,
"Both bikes had about 385-390 mls in the left fork and 285mls in the left instead of 385" do you mean right??
No doubt you know this:-
1990-2001 Spec's (Haynes Manual Ch 6.1)
(With standard/manufacturers springs/spacers etc)
Right
Standads Models 382.5-387.5cc
ABS/TCS models 369.5-374.5cc
CBS/LBS-ABS/TCS models 530.5-535.5cc
Left
Standads Models 432.5-437.5cc
ABS/TCS models 415.5-420.5cc
CBS/LBS-ABS/TCS models 483.5-488.5cc
Or, would you have different springs etc as it was a Police bike :think1
No doubt the brains trust will be able to answer this. :popcorn
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No Abe I meant the other left you clever thing :fp
From memory 435 left and 385 right for 2001PY
:wht11
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Going on the specs ABE put up, your measurements are all good.
By the way WOMBAT, the speedo cable goes through a small hole in the plastic near the horn and goes on the outside of the front forks SO DON'T FIT THE CABLE UNTIL THE PLASTIC IS ON.
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Another traumatic event :OldMan
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Going on the specs ABE put up, your measurements are all good.
By the way WOMBAT, the speedo cable goes through a small hole in the plastic near the horn and goes on the outside of the front forks SO DON'T FIT THE CABLE UNTIL THE PLASTIC IS ON.
Maybe i need to check mine... :fp
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Going on the specs ABE put up, your measurements are all good.
By the way WOMBAT, the speedo cable goes through a small hole in the plastic near the horn and goes on the outside of the front forks SO DON'T FIT THE CABLE UNTIL THE PLASTIC IS ON.
Maybe i need to check mine... :fp
I am sure you fitted that part :grin :grin :grin
:wht11
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Looks like I missed too. Maybe that is where your radiator fan screw came from.
:Stirpot