Author Topic: ST1100 suspension advice  (Read 35480 times)

Offline Streak

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #50 on: March 05, 2012, 08:56:28 AM »
plenty of WD-40, removed the right muffler (which was an acheivement upon itself), got the drill onto it and got it moving then back it out using small screw driver in the grove from the drill
Streak (Graham)
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Offline Down Under

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #51 on: March 05, 2012, 07:06:11 PM »

Shock is still pretty average, and I am thinking of getting it rebuilt, but I have a question with the combined weight of myself and mrs streak + gear we won't get much change out of 200kg, is it worth rebuilding a standard shock? Or am I best to replace with an Ikon shock that is a little more heavy duty?

Any and all thoughts appreciated.p

Glad to hear you got the bolt out!

If you're happy with the way the OEM shock was performing a rebuild will do the job and probably be much cheaper than replacing it with an aftermarket shock.

However, if you wish to improve your ride you'll notice a substantial improvement in performance with a good aftermarket shock.  Most motorcycle suspension manufacturers will be able to advise regarding a suitable spring rate and valving for the type of riding you do, and the sort of loads you carry.

You'll also most likely find that a new rear shock will show up few deficencies in the front end.  If the rear shock is shot it's probably time to have the front end serviced as well.

Tony 
 

Offline royst1100

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #52 on: March 05, 2012, 07:27:12 PM »
as ive watched this disaster turn into a minor inconveniant problem a query for myself has arisan. are st1100p shocks suitable for my st as im useally 2up as this year i have intention of getting the trailer out of mothballs and get out a bit
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Offline saaz

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #53 on: March 05, 2012, 07:51:38 PM »
The ST1100P shocks are exactly the same as the civilian version.  Front end just specifies 10W fork oil rather than 7.5w, but spring rates and valving ar the same.  The switch gear and wiring are really the only differences, as alternator etc are the same.
John
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1996 Honda ST1100P
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Offline Dan

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #54 on: March 05, 2012, 10:49:02 PM »
The ST1100P shocks are exactly the same as the civilian version.  Front end just specifies 10W fork oil rather than 7.5w, but spring rates and valving ar the same.  The switch gear and wiring are really the only differences, as alternator etc are the same.


Didn't you mention that the fork springs were different on the police-spec bikes?  :think1 :cop :law
 

Offline saaz

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #55 on: March 06, 2012, 07:51:15 AM »
The front springs are different from the standard models as they use the early ABS springs, so they are the same as the civilan model. I don't think it was done because they are heavier duty, but I suppose Honda had its reasons.
John
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1996 Honda ST1100P
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Ozstoc, STOC #7239, Farrider #461 Ulysses #061681, IBA #59143 and some others
 

Offline Streak

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #56 on: April 06, 2012, 06:37:32 PM »
Well thanks to some elbow grease, and help from Tipsy, my new shock is in and it is a different bike to ride!

took the bike out myself, and then took teela with me to test it out, and works very well, IKON make a very good shock, the only thing we found it is not as simple as pull it out of the box and put it in.

Start on this side of the bike and remove the Pannier and plastic & Seat




You will also need to loosen the exhaust off as well, don't need to take it off just loosen it so you can get to the bolts around the shock.




as you can see by the photo below we had to grind the sleeves on the bottom of the shock to get it in, we had to take off about 2mm off either side



i dont have photos of the rest as we where trying to get it finished, but i can also say remember to put the shock in with the dampener showing outwards, otherwise you get excellent practice in taking the shock in and out again....

make sure you keep the bike on the centre stand when winding up the shock after you have bolted it in, makes it all very easy to do, we just took it off the centre stand to test the resistance, and put it back on again.

apart from that, it is actually a very simple operation.






Streak (Graham)
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Offline alans1100

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #57 on: April 06, 2012, 07:19:58 PM »
Glad to see it all sorted and Streak that gives me something to look forward to.

One would have thought that after paying a high price for a new shock then it should fit the bike it was designed for without modification.

Just seems strange seeing the coolant overflow next to the rear spring as mine is right behind the motor where the slot is above the RH rear wing. (picture 3)
One minor difference between the 1100 and 1100A then.
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Offline Tackleberry

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #58 on: April 11, 2012, 10:54:49 PM »
Glad to hear it's not that difficult Streak as I have a 465 Progressive on the way to me now for an operation at the end of the month during two weeks holidays that was planned for FarRiding, but now gonna be for providing the old girl some ST love. 

Rear shock, new tyres and hopefully no more lectrik gremlins. 
Steve
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Offline saaz

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #59 on: April 12, 2012, 08:13:00 AM »
Most shocks should just go in, but this is the second time in the last few months I have heard that the bottom fitting was too wide and needed adjusting.  Its not like ST11s have changed.

Alan, does the A have something else back there instead of the overflow bottle?  I have never seen an A without the side cover on.  The A also has less space up under the screen if you are trying to fit HID ballasts, horns etc. due to the extra ABS modules.
John
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1996 Honda ST1100P
2014 Triumph Trophy SE
Ozstoc, STOC #7239, Farrider #461 Ulysses #061681, IBA #59143 and some others
 

Offline alans1100

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #60 on: April 12, 2012, 10:58:31 AM »
Saaz,

What is back there on the A model is something to do with the ABS system. It is more than likely to be the ABS modultor for the rear wheel. There are also two different ABS systems depending on the year. Pre 1996 and post 96 which brings in the 3 piston calipers and linked brakes as well.

Funny the coolant bottle location is not the same for both versions. Doesn't make sense on the production side of things. Two bottles, two sets of hoses etc instead of one for both versions.

I need to check rear brake fluid levels and when I do I get a pic of the RH side without cover for you and post here.

2012_0413ST1100RH0001 (2) by Alan, on Flickr
« Last Edit: July 10, 2018, 05:01:56 PM by alans1100 »
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Offline saaz

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Re: ST1100 suspension advice
« Reply #61 on: April 12, 2012, 11:06:04 AM »
Thanks. Always help if you know differences in model if trying to help people and they get confused beacuse what they have is different.
John
(Ridden on and forever in our hearts)
1996 Honda ST1100P
2014 Triumph Trophy SE
Ozstoc, STOC #7239, Farrider #461 Ulysses #061681, IBA #59143 and some others