Honda ST1100 Section > Suspension ST1100

Fork seal replacement

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kappy5003:
I pulled the front wheel off this arvo, removed the disc's, going to get my wheel straightened, new disc's and pads. May do the wheel bearings while I'm at it, even thought they fell alright. Does anyone know the life of front wheel bearings, mine has done around 96,000kms and 13 years old.

I am gonna change the oil in the forks, but when taking them of the the triple tree's I could tell there's been a little leakage, there was none the last time I did a tyre. so maybe its time to do the seals as well. Has anyone done them and if so how hard is it and can I get some guidance please.

Are fork seals all the same, as mine is ex Police I think I read some where that they are same as earlier ABS forks, hence anti dive on left and drain plugs on both forks.

Really wont know how much has leaked till I drain them, I saw on another forum that some guys cleaned the dust/dirt from the seals with some 35 mm film. Once again do the seals last longer than the k's on my bike or am I making more work for myself than I need.

Cheers
Kappy

Abe:
Kappy5003 I did mine not so long ago, 1994 ST1100 (non abs)

Basically, (this is not a step by step but a overview)

You should find a couple of you tube links as well.

I took photo's first, as it was going to be a start/stop process (work).

I measured the top of each fork tube to the top of the triple tree and recorded same.

Loosen the top bolts on both fork tubes before you undo the triple tree bolts, A MUST. (see photo)

Suspended brake caliper with "occy strap" to take the load off the brake line. (see photo)

Drained each fork and measured the amount of oil and recorded same. (see photo)

Washed forks tubes (with springs in) out with petrol to remove and oil and metal finnings. (you will have some) and let them dry in a ventilated area.

I have been informed by a very experienced bike mechanic, don't worry about the "anti dive" it is more show then go.

Replaced oil (I'll try and find the amounts later) and assemble.

Compress fork tubes and assess the rebound, the aim is to get the both forks to be the same, BUT, the "anti dive" fork should work first, hence more oil in that fork.

Assemble, and place fork tubes in the triple trees as mentioned above (measurement) and "finger tight" the top (only) bolts on the tree.

Place your axle through your forks.  You should be able to rotate the axle smoothly.  If not, one of you tubes needs moving up or down. VERY IMPORTANT STEP

Once right, torque wrench all bolts (there should the manual on this forum somewhere) and reassemble

Sorry, there's no doubt there are little points I've missed out on, but others will chime in and help out or correct.

I made this to assist with the top of the forks:-



This helps getting past the handlebar, due to risers






Off to work, will follow up tonight.

Cheers
Dave

kappy5003:
Thanks Abe,
I love pics. :rockon

I didn't measure between top of fork and triple tree, from memory the last time I had them out to get them straightened and when I reinstalled was near on flush. I was told the amount you have the fork above or below the top triple tree will affect the handling, apparently racers play with this for a particular affect, so the story goes..

I eagerly await the next instalment. :popcorn
Cheers
Kappy

Abe:
Interesting that, you learn something new everyday.  (like I got work tomorrow not today, D'head)

Mine was 2mm from the top of the triple tree to the underside of the bolt.

Used Castrol fork oil 10, and very happy.

Cheers
Dave

Abe:
Some good info for you:-

http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/guides/fork_oil.htm

I have used Castrol fork oil 10, but I do not ride everyday, but do around 300-500kms when I do ride.

I'm more then happy with the feel and the response of the front end.

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