OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Draco (Heartbreak Kid) on January 26, 2016, 10:38:10 PM
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:bl11 Tomorrow I will attempt to replace my rear brake pads, will try to do as shiney suggested :grin. "Do a How to" page, So wish me luck, i've done them before but not on a ST1300.
SO hope it goes well and look out for my how to (input)
neighbors do this |-i in case there's cursing :rofl :fp :blu13left
To jump to the How To click here ;-*
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=10472.msg1192972#msg1192972 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=10472.msg1192972#msg1192972)
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I look forward to reading all about it :thumbsup
And remember if you have any questions just ask and I'm sure someone will be able to help with some advice :hatwave
I would love to help but I will be sleeping due to having to work nightshift :CB--
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I've done the rear twice... both times I was going to take video/photos for a howto but time got the better of me. If you have problems drop me PM. However, there's good info on ST-owners.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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Rear brake is simple to just replace the pads. No need to remove calliper. Undo pad retainer bolt and remove, slide pads out, slide new pads in making sure they locate properly, grease retainer pin and install.
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they are so incredibly simple my 8 year old boy changed them for me.
Was trying to find the vid I did but have lost it.
Have fun.
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they are so incredibly simple my 8 year old boy changed them for me.
Was trying to find the vid I did but have lost it.
Have fun.
I'll borrow your son next time I'm up for a change. I sometimes struggle to get the front lug engaged in the notch.
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:thumbs :thumbsup :hatwave :runyay DONE, how to up later tonight, wasnt as hard as i thought :rofl :blu13
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Do you have a Workshop Manual? If not, have a look at this thread, from where you can download one, thanks to Brock. :thumb
Woops... Forgot the link. http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=407.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=407.0) :fp
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HOW TO GUIDE TO REPLACING REAR BRAKE PADS
Hi Guys n Girls, just a short "How To" on how i changed my rear brake pads on my ST1300.. :blu13left
Step 1 put the bike on center stand
(https://image.ibb.co/fecdRR/20160127_143017_zpsfmvielpu.jpg)
Step 2 Remove left pannier
(https://image.ibb.co/kUq40m/20160127_142841_zpsfvcadtjo.jpg)
Step 3 Remove left exhaust pipe as follows:
Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the exhaust can to exhaust pipe (located near the stand)
Remove the 2 bolts holding the top of the exhaust can to the bike and slide the can out of the exhaust pipe and off the bike (this will expose the brake caliper)
(https://image.ibb.co/h176D6/20160127_134356_zpsidkolbr8.jpg)
Step 4 Remove round black dust cap exposing allen key bolt. Remove the bolt
(https://image.ibb.co/kkmYt6/20160127_134416_zpswrxtvtzj.jpg)
Step 5 Find a piece of wood or dowel, shave or cut one end to a wedge shape
(https://image.ibb.co/eeCpY6/20160129_120328_zpsmeqfnmdc.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/mPhCmR/20160129_120355_zps9yyn4gde.jpg)
Step 6 Slide wedged end of wood between the pad closest to the wheel and the caliper to create enough space for new pad to slide in then remove old pad.
(https://image.ibb.co/fgE3t6/20160303_140122_zpskbbmoqpa.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/idKa6R/20160127_141905_zpsfvbzprzm.jpg)
Step 7 Slide new pad in, making sure the lug lines up on notched end.
Step 8 Slide wedged end of wood between the other pad and the pistons to create enough space for the second new pad to slide in then remove old pad.
Step 9 Slide new pad in, making sure the lug lines up on notched end.
Step 10 put a small amount of grease on allen key bolt and slide through the caliper and pads then tighten and replace round black dust cap on the bolt
(https://image.ibb.co/nk9mD6/20160127_140607_zpsvwtyaxz2.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/gFuxLm/20160127_140746_zpscx2khx9f.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/iybzY6/20160127_140803_zpsjpgk7jbu.jpg)
Step 11 Slide exhaust can back into exhaust pipe, then replace the 2 bolts holding the top of the exhaust can to the bike and tighten the 2 bolts that attach the exhaust can to exhaust pipe
(https://image.ibb.co/je7j0m/20160127_130032_zpsx2lp4kro.jpg)
Final Step Reattach left pannier (make sure it won't fall off ;-*) pump the foot brake a few times, then go for a test ride :runyay :runyay :runyay
I hope this will be of help to someone :thumbsup
Cheers Draco
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Awesome "How To" mate, thanks for sharing :hatwave
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The same process applies to the front (minus the rear related items) though you may have to swap over the pad order as the pads will fall out. So I insert the outer pad and hold it in place with the retainer bolt. Bolt won't go in if isn't located correctly.
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Excellent pix and text, Draco. You've earned your stripes here! ++
I've always done the job without removing the exhaust. Will look closely at the next time.
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Excellent pix and text, Draco. You've earned your stripes here! ++
I've always done the job without removing the exhaust. Will look closely at the next time.
Thanks my friend (had a little tech help with the post from Shiney ++ )
:-++ :-++
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Looks like the old pads were just a little worn!!!! What was the condition of the disc?
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Looks like the old pads were just a little worn!!!! What was the condition of the disc?
:blu13 just missed out on damaging them :thumb :blu13left
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Thanks Rob for a great informative post. :thumb
I see you have been trained in posting by a great master! :rockon
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THE PICTURES HAVE BEEN UPDATED ++
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Hi guys,
After I replaced the rear brake pads on my ST1300 with new Metal Gear ones my rear wheel stopped spinning freely after the first use of the rear brakes.
With the bike on the centre stand I could spin the wheel by hand however as soon as I let go it would stop almost instantly.
I took the bike for a run thinking that maybe I just needed to bed in the pads but when I got back the disc was sizzling hot and the issue remained.
I did a lot of reading and diagnostics before I figured out the issue.
When I had replaced the standard Honda pads with Metal Gear pads I had reinstalled the metal plate that sits at the back of the standard Honda brake pads to the back of the new pads.
Anyway after removing this metal plate from back of both pads the brakes now operate normally, stopping the wheel from moving and then releasing allowing the wheel to spin freely.
So if you are doing a brake pad change DON'T reinstall the metal plates pictured below.
Cheers
Shiney
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/a9ad068e7734de706a98e7c4974b3668.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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Hi Shiney,
They look like anti-rattle springs.
Are they made from a springy steel?
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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Sounds like the new pads are thicker than Honda ones and the pistons could not go back any further.
Was it hard to work the caliper onto the disc when reinstallng it with new pads and the plates?
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Eventually during a pad change the calliper will have be removed from the mount and a hidden pin greased which I think might cause some trouble with the calliper not opening fully or not sliding on the pins all the way.
I made a comment over here about this http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=10328.msg1249061#msg1249061 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=10328.msg1249061#msg1249061)
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Those are simply spacers. Some new pads come with nylon spacers which are about 1mm compared with those metal ones which are about 0.5mm.
They're only required on some applications. If you can't get the pads in, remove the spacers. BTDT. :thumbsup
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With the spacers installed there was still free space between the pads and the disc.
I think the issue was that the metal spacer isn't shaped exactly the same as the new pads so it doesn't attach securely to the new pads and may have been distorting then catching on something when retracting.
Like I said, there was lots of space when they were installed and this is the only reason I can think of as to why removing them would fix the issue.
But no matter what the reason was, it is something to try if anyone is experiencing the same issue :thumbs
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Hi guys
I realised I missed a VERY important piece of information
( that'll teach me for putting up a post when I'm half asleep)
After the install of the rear brakes (with the metal plates) the wheel was spinning freely until I applied the rear brake for the first time, after this is when the issue began.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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Well for me, with the pistons right in and the caliper centred over the disk, the pads with the metal backing just would not go in, so it wasn't the movement of the caliper on the pin, nor the pistons protruding.
But thanks to everyone for the tip- I'll look at greasing the holding pin next time I change pads (which isn't often because I try not to stop often :grin ).
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Thanks for the "How To" guide, Draco...After looking/reading your guide I feel I might just have the confidence to have a go at replacing mine when the time comes. :thumbs
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The brake pads on the ST are very easy to replace, wish all brakes could be done as easily.
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Cheers Brock!
I had been thinking I should replace the pads while I have the rear wheel out but after seeing how easy it is with the wheel in place I think I'll just leave them and get my monies worth out of the old ones. (they aren't as bad as Draco's yet...lol)