OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Tyres...to suit your ST1100 => Topic started by: pault on September 23, 2014, 06:55:15 AM
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After the last 3 oil changes I have had a flat rear tyre. This is only after changing to penrite oil. What is going on, luck of the irish. Things are supposed to come in 3's. so hopefully thats the end of it.
Often the flats come from a pin hole. The small size makes getting the reamer tool for the worm install difficult to get through.
I picked up the 2.5mm drill thing pictured somewhere, forget where. It makes life so much easier.
One could easily make one with an old volume control knob, the ones with the cross grub screw.
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Search "ride on" in the threads here.
Sent from my GT-I9507 using Tapatalk
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Here you go Paul :thumb
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=5797.0 (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=5797.0)
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Here is a how to fix I wrote for the Joondalup Ulysses. No Glue, a little reaming, easy as and lasts the life of the tyre.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53770433/FlatFix.PDF
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gentlemen thanks for replies.
i have had no trouble with the worms, the drill has come in handy. looked at mushrooms but never been there.
I think the worms are cheaper, perhaps a factor when i seem to get so many flats?? sic..
read somewhere that the mushrooms do not like splits so much.
what i really want to know is how i get so many flats??
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After the last 3 oil changes I have had a flat rear tyre. This is only after changing to penrite oil...
what i really want to know is how i get so many flats??
It's obvious. Stop using Penrite oil!
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Here is a how to fix I wrote for the Joondalup Ulysses. No Glue, a little reaming, easy as and lasts the life of the tyre.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53770433/FlatFix.PDF (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53770433/FlatFix.PDF)
Great write-up mate - most helpful. :clap :clap :clap
Paul - most flat tyres occur towards the end of a tyre's life - (most likely tread thickness). Newish tyres seem a little more impervious to flotsam and jetsum. Have you found this to be the case in your situation?
Cheers, Diesel
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yes my troubles are near the end of a tyres life. mine are always more then half worn out, forget what its like to ride on round tyres. ie not "cupped'
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Its like a new bike.
Remeber, that the speedo is driven from the rear wheel ( well actually the rear drive assy) in the 1300 and the front wheel on the 1100. so lower profile on those tyres means a lower actual speed than indicated
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yes my troubles are near the end of a tyres life. mine are always more then half worn out, forget what its like to ride on round tyres. ie not "cupped'
Logic based on what's happened on my bike over the 8 years I've had it, nothing more.
I've had BT 21 and Z6 puncture issues in the past but with the last three sets of BT 23s in a row no punctures. All I know is the 23s are steel belted which are more puncture resistant (read: not puncture proof) over a standard radial tyre so tyre choice might also be a factor. The T30s now fitted are steel belted as well.
Another issue might be related to available tyres suitable for the 1100 rear. The BT 21s and Z6 were 160/60ZR17 fitted by dealers to mine as the OEM size wasn't available. On the surface it may not seem much of an issue but looking at the max load index of 69 (325kg) for the 160/60, 73 (365kg) for the OEM 160/70 the 1100 may have simply been to heavy and might have caused some extra stress in the tyre which wouldn't have been there had OEM size was used.
I now use the 170/60 (OEM 1300) with a load index (72 (355kg) which should handle the 1100 ok.
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have been using 1300 sizes for a while. ever since dealer would sell 1100's to someone else when i had ordered them for me. changed dealer and 1300's always in stock PR3's.