OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Biggles on March 18, 2014, 01:47:06 PM
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It's 36,000 kays since I had the drive oil changed. I asked the guy who fitted the tyres to do it, and he charged $40. The oil only cost him about $1 and the rest is labour, but I don't begrudge him that, even though it works out around $120 per hour. He's got rent, a wife and kids, superannuation, mortgage, business rego etc etc.
What did bug me was when I opened the inspection plug, about 100 cc of oil poured out, which hit the concrete because I wasn't expecting it. Apart from the mess, it illustrates the problem with having other people tamper with your bike! After YoungSTer's blown engine seals due to a serious oil over-fill, I don't need oil anywhere the bike's creator says it shouldn't be. The rear drive has a breather, so shouldn't over-pressure, but that's not the point.
Anyway, I bought the necessaries from SupaCheap- $12.50 for enough 80 hypoid gear oil for at least five oil changes = another 180,000 kays. Also invested $4.99 in an Ozzie-made bendy oil filler because even if you took the muffler off, you'd still have to work out how to pour horizontally (or lay the bike on its left side and use a normal funnel).
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/Pixtor/Oilandfiller_zpsc84a05f0.jpg)
Pull the drain plug and watch the evil-looking black stuff ooze out (best done after a warm-up ride).
Clean out the drain plug and check the magnetic centre for iron filings. Did my mechanic do that? If he did, he didn't mention it, and I would have in his position- "all clear of filings, Biggles, givus ya money".
Pour out the oil catcher and check the bottom.
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/Pixtor/Oilparticles_zpse2d1853b.jpg)
Erk. Apart from the larger particles (circled) it's lined with minute particles, all of which form a grinding paste in your transmission, since there's no filter to catch them. Another reason for changing oil at least as often as Honda specifies.
I measured 155 cc of fresh oil as specified and found after pouring it in, it didn't come up to the filler level, which is the check point. So I added about 50 cc to reach it. I have no idea how the spanner-guy managed to get the extra 100 cc in. Maybe he did tilt the bike over 45o because he didn't have a bendy funnel.
What to do with the old oil! In the bad old days we poured it along the fence line to kill the grass. Hard if you live on the fourth floor and have a concrete yard (neither of which I suffer). I keep my 5 litre oil containers and fill them with the old oil. When I have my car serviced, I take the containers and ask the helpful guys there to dump the bike oil into their bulk drums. It will then be recycled as shopping bags etc.
Time to put the pannier back on, and I remembered something Dale McLean showed me when I made a meal of putting them on at his workshop. The reason they can be obstreperous is the clever front mount needs to be lined up properly:
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e136/Pixtor/Panniermount_zpsa96f2291.jpg)
If you watch this drop in, the rest is easy.
Hopefully these tips encourage others to do the simple jobs.
1. You save a few dollars.
2. You learn a bit more about your bike.
3. You know the job was done properly.
4. You're more conscious of maintenance schedules and you'll keep better records.
:thumbsup
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Well done. I keep a 20 litre container to put waste oil in, then take it down to the oil recycling when near full. Also take the 4 and 5 litre containers down. Lots of containers down there to get a new one.
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If you had the bike on the centre stand when you checked the oil Biggles, then maybe it was filled when on the side stand. The description of the oil sounds like it hadnt been changed at all, in my 1100 (I fill on side stand) the oil was darkish but translucent no bits. There is no chance of blowing seals in the final drive, as there is only a small amount of oil and tons of room. If you put the bike on its side and filled it , then maybe you could do damage...
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Supposed to be done on centre stand. Fill with oil until it's level with bottom of the fill hole. No need to measure as that's the right level.
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If you had the bike on the centre stand when you checked the oil Biggles, then maybe it was filled when on the side stand. The description of the oil sounds like it hadnt been changed at all, in my 1100 (I fill on side stand) the oil was darkish but translucent no bits. There is no chance of blowing seals in the final drive, as there is only a small amount of oil and tons of room. If you put the bike on its side and filled it , then maybe you could do damage...
As Alan (and the manual) says, the bike should be on the centre stand. It was for the mechanic's fill, because it was done after the tyre fitting.
It will be interesting to see the oil colour after the next change in a year or so, since I know its the right type and I saw it changed. :wink1
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Maybe the mechanic filled on the centre stand but it with the front tyre off and the forks touching the ground, after all I don't think the manual says you have to have the front wheel in place :-[
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If you have animals, four legged preferred, the trips to the vet can be advantageous.
I use a syringe so I can measure the amount, also does away with the need for a funnel. As Alan said,"when it comes out, it's full".
Oil is cheap as chips so every 10k for me. 155mm is all it takes.
:blu13
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Honda recommend changing the final drive oil every 38,400kms... :-/ I would never wait that long, I do mine every time I do an engine oil change.... takes 10 minutes....