Rear drive train servicing????

[saaz]

There was a discussion on this on the old my-mc some time ago.  Some went further and put a little molly on the fingers as they went into the alloy inserts, but not on the alloy inserts as they went into the rubber dampers.  The logic was that greasing up the rubbers might promote movement and wear, rather than the rubber sticking in place.

I recently replaced some dampers etc in a 180,000kms ST11 that had worn the alloy inserts oval in a bad way and has started to wear into the wheel.  They can take abuse but it was reaching the limits.

[Greencan]

Morning All...

Ahh, the joys of a proper computer and keyboard and not just my thumb on an iphone...now I can get into x10 more trouble

Keith, my wheel hasn't any wear on the end, so that bearing is not 'exposed'...but here's a thought before you commit your toasted wheel to the recyclers.

OK, from memory I think that exposed bearing is a 'triple' bearing...So (if I had this wheel):

Option 1) Is what I already have in mind for my bike if I ever get home into my shed

Would be to remove the this bearing (and all the other 'bits'), and the wheel could be turned (in an lathe), so that (a) the badly damaged end is cleaned up to return a flat surface, then (b) turn the the mating surface that the flange rests on down to approx 1/2 the thickness it is now and back to just below the lip that has the 5 threaded holes that receive the attachment screws for the damper retaining plate. A tolerence fit sleeve (with an 'L' profile),  then could be turned up (with a grove to receive an 'O' ring), and fitted to the now dressed wheel. I would then drill 4 x 5-6mm holes through the sleeve and down into the now flat surface along side the bearing and fix 4 unbrako srews into the sleeve / wheel and countersunk 1-2mm and fill the countersunk with some aluminium putty / Devcon and hand fettle any excess off.

This could easily be done in a 3' split bed Miford lathe.

Option 2) a little more radical

Would be to machine the wheel back in much the same way as describes above, but so that now only that a 'double' bearing could only be accommodated within the wheel. I then with 'fit' a 'single' bearing within the drive flange so that now that 1 kilo drive flange is now support on the axle and not the wheel hub...something Honda ought to have done in the first place!

 Now the only hand-brake to this idea I can see at this stage is the amount of metal there is to work with that could accommodate this combination of 1 x 'double' and 1 x 'single' bearing as the combine widths of these 2 bearings is greater than a single OEM 'triple' bearing. I know this as I bought a wrong bearing somne years ago and it's still sitting in my shed.

As I said before I have toying with these possibilities in my head for a while now, the latter is I concede a bit fanciful as the ST unsprung rear wheel weight is stupidly heavy and more thought here, me thinks   

Just a thought,

Ciao, the can :-)

[Biggles]

OR you could get the wheel off that wreck in Sydney for a song.   

[Brock]

This could easily be done in a 3' split bed Miford lathe.

 

Now all I got to do is get one of them, put it on the slab that isnt there and build a shed around it. I would love to own my own machine shop...

[saaz]

Someone has already rebuilt the worn part of the wheel by machining up a spacer. I may have saved the thread somewhere, so will look when I get home.  Having a decent lathe, and some ability to use it, would be handy.

[keith3po]

  If i had a lathe etc etc etc  i still wouldn't know what to do with it.

[Abe]

Have you ever thought of rotating the 5 fingers (fingers = my word) 180 degrees on the final drive, as I have noticed that the "case hardening" has been worn away whilst rubbing on the aluminum inserts.  A new final drive is approx $135 + p&h

[Greencan]

Evenin' All... home again...and NO BLOODY RAIN

Someone has already rebuilt the worn part of the wheel by machining up a spacer. I may have saved the thread somewhere, so will look when I get home.  Having a decent lathe, and some ability to use it, would be handy.

Bugger

Have you ever thought of rotating the 5 fingers (fingers = my word) 180 degrees on the final drive, as I have noticed that the "case hardening" has been worn away whilst rubbing on the aluminum inserts.  A new final drive is approx $135 + p&h

No...but I have turned over the alloy inserts and got another shot out of em

Finally... Yeah I know this is the wrong thread, but I can't be bothered lookin' for the right one...

...To the large bloke with the pillion who passed us on the motorway heading north last FRIDAY, yes in the sodding rain     around the Mudgeerabah turn off at about 14:30-15:00 riding a black ST1100 with a black top box with the lid painted red...my Wife made the following two observations see wishes me to pass on...

1) "Ya Pillion didn't look happy"... Yeeees she was wearing a full face helmet, but I have learnt not to argue!
2) "the TPS in large white letters on her back, should have read TWU!" ...When I pushed her why, she replied "This Way Up!"

...you may not have seen us as somehow our lovely blue ST1100 looked remarkable like a white Honda Civic...strange that!

Ciao, the can :-)