Hi guys,
I've opened this thread to start the obvious conversation. To give you some background, for the last 8 years I've both researched, and been formally trained in lubrication- including physical make up, practical application including analysis and fault finding. I work with a Brisbane based oil company who retail their own products to a standard quite simply far higher than most available on the Australian market. Their name is PM Lubricants. There is only one other I am aware of that consistently comes close. I am a draftsman first and foremost, but hoping to work with this company more as time goes on.
I'm more than happy for you guys to ask questions in here, the aim of the game here is to educate. There is so much mis-education on the subject, I am hoping to help clear some of it up. Some of what I say will go against accepted logic, but for good reason. If you ask something I am not sure about, I will happily say so and if I can find the answer for you. I am happy to cover topics from lubrication basics, terminologies and what is available, to filtration, and fault finding.
As I get more time, I'll throw in as much information as I can, hopefully not boring anyone but for those interested, it should hopefully clear up some things. For those not interested, asking 'what is best'- I will answer honestly, but it's almost always going to be the same brand, the specific product is what will change.
So- here goes.
Lesson 1. (sorry couldn't help myself).
Synthetics vs minerals. Very quickly, both have their place. Which is better? That comes down to a bunch of questions, including what specifically is the oil's intended purpose. At this point in time, against popular belief, we are able to create a far better performing mineral based oil than any synthetic. The technology just hasn't caught up yet. How do I know? Years of oil analysis, customer comments, and field research has proven time and time again that phrase that I like to use- "It isn't the base that defines quality, rather the quality of the base and additives, and the correct additives that defines an oil's quality". Just because it is 'synthetic', doesn't mean it's better.
Motorcycle gearboxes are quite the opposite to car and truck boxes when it comes to viscosities. In a car, changing to a lighter viscosity oil will improve shifting (Redline shockproof is the best I know of for removing notchy gearchange). In a bike however, higher viscosity oils and higher load carrying ability- which all cushion against the shock of gearchange will reduce notchiness.
Notice on some oils, in high heat how gearchanges start to get notchy after say 3,000 or 3,500 km? That is an indication the oil is breaking down. I have put late model japanese sportsbikes, mostly Yamaha 1000's onto 25w60 to cure gearchange issues, after going through gradually increasing viscosity.
This ties into how I specify viscosities- if there is an issue like notchy gearchange, I will likely increase viscosity to help smooth that out.