OzSTOC
Honda ST1100 Section => Oils, Oil Filters & Servicing ST1100 => Topic started by: Diesel on September 08, 2011, 09:15:59 PM
-
For me it's the Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T (10W-40).
Now it all depends on your climate as to What-W What you use - but I'll be changing brands next time. It seems a little clunky and rattly this oil.
I had a fair bit of success with turbo-rated diesel oil (go ahead! laugh!). It has what they call a great 'crush' value, which means that when it is wrung through the gears, it doesn't break down as much. Some oils are no good after only 1,500kms!
This guy is the oil guru - he'll tell you all about 'em:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil)
And here is a REALLY detailed link on oil for you retired folks with heaps of time on your hands.... (okay, okay - I've read it too!):
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html)
Whatever you use - you KNOW it cannot contain friction modifiers don't you (wet clutch!)
Got a good oil? Don't forget to make it obvious whether you're an 11 or 13 pilot too! ;)
Cheers, Diesel - ST1300
-
ST1100 here!
I have found the 15W-40 diesel rated oils really good for the standard Honda change interval (I trie a 10W-40 and it did not stand up as well as the 15W-40 - gearbox felt more clunky). Just make sure it has the petrol engine ratings on it (SN, SM etc) as the oils used in japanese diesles are not suitable for petrol engines. Ones for Detroit diesels are ok (even Sunshine Coast Diesels!) The synthetic versions of these oils you may have read about are also great, but way too expensive in Australia.
Of late I have been using castrol Edge 10W-60, winter (Canberra winter) and summer. Easily lasts the Honda 12,500kms oil change interval and beyond. More expensive than the diesel oils (well double if you buy the 20 litre drums of diesel oil), but I have a stock of it as I use it in the car as well (5.7 litre V8 Statesman).
-
When I repaired the waterpump I also checked the plugs and looked at the piston tops.
There was a tad of black crunchy goop there, so I've upped my oil to 20W-50.
I've also gone back to the mineral based oil as it burns easier. (Motul 1000)
Might be time for some valve stem seals. Hmmm.
A side effect of the thicker oil is it starts quicker.
The ST1300 will not fire until the ECU registers oil pressure. ;)
-
I use Valvoline 20W50 at the moment, it seems to do the job. It doesnt get cold enough in the West of Oz to need a 10 weight oil
-
I think that I put in the same oil as you, Diesel. My ST1100 is usually clunky and I don't like it.
It shifts better in cold weather than it does when it's warm!
-
Well, I am still new to this bike (2001 Honda ST1100PY) but the guy I purchased it from had Rockingham Sports bike shop service the bike, they had put Belray EXP 15-50 oil in (semi synth), I found that as soon as my bike is up to full heat, the gears appeared a little sticky and it was a bugger to get it into neutral, so I asked my Honda dealership what oil should go in it. They said they only put the Genuine Honda HP4 10W-30 (Semi Synth) into the ST1100's as they are a performance engine (Racing bike??). I asked about the W rating being so low at 10, the service guy said it was perfect for Perth WA temps, plus he said that Honda just keep changing the numbers, but the oil is the same.
That made a lot of difference to me for sure, the sticky gears now come in before the bike is even at full heat, what a bonus that was. When I then followed up with the Honda shop, they suggested I get the bike in a strip the clutch (They would I guess).
The bike does sometimes slip into neutral OK even when it is hot, but more often than not, I get to sit at the traffic lights flicking the gearshift up, down, up, down, up,,, Oh you get the idea. ::)
I will be giving the Valvoline a go next change (I will not be waiting the 6 months either, it is a little tiresome needing to turn the engine off before I can get it into neutral each time).
So I can only confirm what I have not been happy with so far, sorry for the negativity. :o (Except to say that the Belray EXP was far superior to the Honda HP4, though still sticky gears when hot)
-
When I changed my oil & filter at 12,000kls I decided to go for the genuine Honda recommended oil, but when I went to buy it from the service dept of the local Honda dealer the service manager said, "do you particularly want to use the Honda oil?", my reply was, "why, what do you recommend", his reply was...........we use Yamalube Semi-Synthetic 10-40 because we believe it's the best and we've have never had a problem with it...................So, that's what I use...........Yamalube Semi-Synthetic 10-40. Mileage is now at 16,500kls, gear change etc is as smooth as silk & haven't used a drop of oil.
It was only a little more expensive than an alternative from Super Cheap, and lets face it, we only change our oil every 12,000kls....at least I do anyway, so the additional cost amounts to very little!
This isn't to say that a cheaper oil wouldn't do the same job..................but I believe it's like most things we buy................quality remains long after the price is forgotten!
This is my ten cents worth anyway, :D
Cheers,
Couch
-
This is the oil filter I have been using lately - works well....
(http://www.knfilters.com/images/l/KN-204.jpg)
And last time, they threw in a magnetic sump plug as well.
That works.
I have a special 'claw' that grabs onto the filter now - but you can see that a socket and extension would make light work of the (sometimes nigh on impossible) task of removing it.
Cheers, Diesel
-
Nice one Diesel................anything that helps in getting the filter off is certainly a bonus. I like that idea.............where did you pick it up from mate?
-
Nice one Diesel................anything that helps in getting the filter off is certainly a bonus. I like that idea.............where did you pick it up from mate?
G'day Couch - I got it from the ubiquitous marketplace......
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KN-204-K-N-PERFORMANCE-OIL-FILTER-HONDA-ST1300-02-09-/390293767618?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5adf5245c2 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KN-204-K-N-PERFORMANCE-OIL-FILTER-HONDA-ST1300-02-09-/390293767618?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5adf5245c2)
Not too bad a price either - but be patient - takes a while from England.
Cheers
-
Re: a special 'claw' that grabs onto the filter
I nearly crushed my filter when trying to get it off using a small filter wrench, I thought that the shop that put in on may have super glued it because it was stuck in so firm, but I ended up using a tool not made to remove my filter, and it worked first time, with ease.
As a sparky I have a tool called a "Footprint", well actually I think you call them a pair of footprints, anyway, it is a "Footprint wrench" tool that is used for putting on and off large steel electrical conduits (Pipes), and opens easily to fit the O/D of my filter on the ST1100, plus I can get in with this tool without removal of the middle fairing.
I wonder if they actually plan to put these parts in the most awkward spots they can? A bit like the radiator cap on the ST1100, another 3cm left and you could get to it by removing the petrol tank cover only...
-
when fitting an oil filter, place a small amount of oil on the rubber seal and smear it around. Screw the filter on until the seal bottoms nad tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Dont force it, no need for tools to refit, and if done correctly it will come of easily next time.
-
Here is the 'claw' I mentioned - the tighter you turn it - the tighter she grips the filter cartridge casing at three points. I only put them on gently with the film of oil as Brock has rightly pointed out - but this one's a tiger if she stuck good n proper....
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/5/0/0/6/2/webimg/501654877_o.jpg)
Cheers, Diesel
-
I use a cheap adjustable strap oil filter tool for taking the filters off, if required. Most times they will come off by hand, as you don't have to put them on that hard. Same as I have always done on my cars.
-
I prefer the belt type. It has a square tube attached so you use a 1/2" drive ratchet.
I got genuine filters from the states for US$8.49.
-
Thanks for the info Diesel.............just placed an order for one.
-
You can get the honda special tool for as little as $14.00 It works well. :-++
-
I dunno, Never Done it, don't even know where the whole is... I figure It'll get changed every service...
-
You can get the honda special tool for as little as $14.00 It works well. :-++
I purchased a pack of three Honda Filters from David Silver Spares (UK) with a bunch of other items. And they sent a honda removal tool with each filter. The cast alloy head that sits on the top of the filter and allows a wrench to be used.
When I did this oil and filter change though, I managed to get it off with my hands (was tight, but eased off OK), seeing as when I did it the last time I put the oil filter on to hand tight.
I did not use one of my new Honda filters this time (even though I just picked up three), I gave the one that Brock suggested a go (The Repco one designed for Mazda and ford). The Repco filter appears slightly heavier than the Honda ones, probably made with a better filter element than the OEM one.
The Diesel oil works well. The gear change does appear smoother, and the engine appears to "sound" a little smoother too, though that may be just wishful thinking.
After reading the other tip about oil levels, I may drop some out. I have it at the top marker, but the suggestion that having the oil level half way between the top and bottom oil level glass markers, give a smoother running engine, sounds like it is worth a go.
If it there are any issues, having the 5 Litre Penrite oil, has left me with plenty of spare.
-
My filter arrived today Diesel..................thanks for the info mate. It did take a little while to get here but I haven't been waiting on it so not a problem. Probably should have brought a couple of them......never mind......maybe next time!
Thanks for the info Diesel.............just placed an order for one.
-
Sweeeet. It should do good for ya Couch.
Is it true that the ST13 manual only recommends filter/oil changes every 12,000km?
Anyone else heard this?
-
You are correct Diesel. The maintenance schedule on page 82 of the owners manual says every 12K.
Shouldn't be an issue if you run full synthetic oil.
-
Same as the ST11, 12,400kms oil and filter/or 12 months whichever come first. That is with plain old oil.
-
Yep.......it's true Diesel..........12,000kls betwen oil & filter changes for the ST13......and if Honda recommends it, then it shouldn't be a problem. But personally I'd make sure of using a good quality semi synthetic or synthetic oil. As I mentioned in a previous post I use Yamalube Semi Synthetic!
Is it true that the ST13 manual only recommends filter/oil changes every 12,000km?
Anyone else heard this?
-
I am thinking of maybe doing next oil 2000 kms early and changing every 10 000 kms
Good thinking Gavo - I was thinking something similar - that way you'd basically ensure those 200-300,000 km milages out of these gems that you hear about.
I think Malcolm has an OEM filter or two for a great price + postage if anyone's interested.... Mal?
For me, next time - it's def semi - maybe fully synthetic and a 15W40 weight. As I once heard, with the thicker oil, you get better starting as the FI will only fire once (correct) oil pressure is registered.
Just a little hard paying upwards of $95 for 5 litres of synthetic, when you can get semi for around $60-$65.
At least it's changed every 12K kms instead of 5K!!!! :thumbs
-
You certainly won't do the bike any harm by doing so...................probably not necessary though, unless you live in an area with contaminated/poluted/dusty air.
That's one of the best things I love about Tassie................we're said to have the purest air of any populated country in the world.
Am I pluggin Tassie...............absolutely!!
I am thinking of maybe doing next oil 2000 kms early and changing every 10 000 kms
-
Yamalube Semi Synthetic cost me $55 - 4 litres last time I brought it!
Just a little hard paying upwards of $95 for 5 litres of synthetic, when you can get semi for around $60-$65.
-
Yamalube Semi Synthetic cost me $55 - 4 litres last time I brought it!
Reckon I might try this next time Baz - you say that your ST is smooth as silk with great gear changes - yes?
Who stocks Yamalube?
-
Here is a link to some used oil tests on an ST1100. The ride has used all sorts of oils, and they all come back as being ok at the Honda recommended interval. Some are better than others, but overall the ST1100 is not oil sensitive. The synthetics do seem to provide that extra margin for error. Gear change feel is also something that only a rider can judge for themselves. If you read any more of the oil threads don't blame me if you become obsessed! It is far to easy to worry about oil too much.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2288580#Post2288580
-
I'm doing an oil change soon. Using
http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_29/8163.pdf
This is a fully synthetic oil.
Yes, as Diesel said I do have a couple of OEM 1300 oil filters for sale. I bought them from America.
If you want one they are $11.85 plus postage. They are a small filter, should be cheap.
-
I use what the honda shop puts in my bike :rofl
-
I brought my Yamalube from Horizon Honda, the local Hobart Honda/Yamaha dealer. They tell me that's the only oil they use in all their oil changes. They also stock the genuine Honda oil but recommend the Yamalube over it.
And yes.............my gear changes are smoothhhhhhhhhhh!!
Yamalube Semi Synthetic cost me $55 - 4 litres last time I brought it!
Reckon I might try this next time Baz - you say that your ST is smooth as silk with great gear changes - yes?
Who stocks Yamalube?
-
Dupe info I know >:()
I originally managed to squeeze this into the Filters area, as that is what I was changing from the Honda OEM for the ST1100, to the Repco look alike filter.
I also went for Penrite HPR 15 Diesel oil http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/HPR%20DIESEL%2015%20AUGUST%202010.pdf (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/HPR%20DIESEL%2015%20AUGUST%202010.pdf), it has been good so far, 2 weeks of stop start freeway riding, and the gear changes are smooth |-i. The engine appears to be quieter than I am used too, but I will get over it (I had stalled at a set of lights, and didn't know. Maybe it is my hearing that has gone) :o.
I had used Belray EXP semi synth oil, sticky gears. Then Honda HP4, sticky gears again, and I am sure my bike was trying to tell me something, as it appeared noisy and some vibration that I had not seen on the Belray. Now gone to Penrite Diesel semi synth oil (Penrite HPR 15 Diesel oil), which I paid about $31 for a 5 litre carton at Repco on special, at the same time as getting their own brand filter too.
Compared to $68 for 4 litres of Belray, or about $80 for 4 litres of Honda HP4, it is a big saving on my wallet too. :thumbs
Happy so far, and less scared about trying other oils now.
The Penrite oil has a PDF at their website that states that it is suitable for cars, trucks and 4 strokes motorcycles with wet clutches. I could probably put it in my Camry on the next oil change. Cheaper to buy the big drum of it.
About the "change" interval though, I have always changed oil and filter on my car every 6 months, and the bike is getting more use, so I will certainly be doing that every 6 months too. I am not looking to find an oil and filter that can stay in for 2 years myself. I would rather have the regular change, as I also get a chance to look at the oil, check it for sparkly bits :crazy. The oil and filter now are not really an issue, once you come down from the $25 Honda filter, and the $80 oil.
-
Mark, your signature has incorrect info, the ST1100 wasnt made after 2002 except for the police model that went to 2003 ( I got one :) )
-
Mark, your signature has incorrect info, the ST1100 wasnt made after 2002 except for the police model that went to 2003 ( I got one :) )
Brock
Mine is the Police model :thumbl, and a 2001 compliance/ manufacture plate date, in hard to find white (as they say at the auctions). I thought it was called ST1100P, but when ordering parts for my bike from David Silver Spares, one of the parts (the right hand crash bar cover) wasn't correct for my bike. I called them up (in the UK) to ask what had happened :phone. Then, the person I spoke too asked me to give him the engine and VIN number, he told me that the bike may have a manufacture date of 2001, but Honda didn't make any more new ST1100's after 2000. They just put all the bits they had together to make bikes for the one or two Police that still wanted them for their fleets, or sold off stock they already had.
Not really bothered either way. The compliance says it was 2001, my bike documents say 2001, and there is not much to look at between my Police 2001 and a Police one from 1998. The crash bar cover however, is different from Police to standard road bike (The standard right hand crash bar cover has a weird kink in the mould, that does not fit the Police crash bar, and siren mount). My VIN came up in their UK database saying that it is the same as the UK Police bikes, they are called PY, the Y denotes something I am sure. It also indicates that the ignition switch is opposite cut to the standard model. So when you want to buy an official key blank, the Police model uses the same key form as the US model.
So it was David Silver Spares that told me that from the VIN, the bike is from 2000 components, or run out stock that Honda were pushing to Police depts that was made in 2000, at their production end. They said that Honda were not making any more ST1100 bikes after 2000. :think1
If mine isn't the police model, I probably didn't need to take the second gear disable switch off my left hand fairing, or remove the front flash mounts that were coming out of the mirror enclosures.
And I still haven't painted my top box white. I would be interested to see what yours in white looks like with the bike though.
Keep smiling Brock
Mark (a.k.a Woody) :fp
P.S, David Silver Spares, replaced the crash bar cover for free, after I got the wrong one. Not bad service.
-
If you have the extra wiring going to the duck tail, then its a Police model
-
The Honda manual I have for the police versions goes to the 2003 model. I have met a few riders who were able to buy brand new ones, none of those left as far as I know. There were no changes to any of the models after 1996. Besides the wiring, the police models do vary from the normal standard non-abs models as they use the pre-96 abs forks which have different springs and oil volume/levels from all the standard models and the later ABS models. This will matter if you change the fork springs as the lengths are different. Why they are different I don't know.
-
If you have the extra wiring going to the duck tail, then its a Police model
Yup
The big socket cluster with a large rubber shroud around it. I by passed the second Honda "ignition switch" that was fitted to the left hand fairing (that allowed the rider to get off, and leave the bike running for the lights, but if someone put the bike in gear it kills the bike). The guy before me left that in, it was a little pointless, and having two ignition keys was a pain.
-
I refitted my kill switch, but to remove it is easy. Remove the left side panel and look for the wires near the gear lever ( they are for the kick stand) the green wire with the bullett connector will be connected to a wire going to the kill switch. Undoo the two bullets, and rejoin the green wires. Job done.
-
I refitted my kill switch, but to remove it is easy. Remove the left side panel and look for the wires near the gear lever ( they are for the kick stand) the green wire with the bullett connector will be connected to a wire going to the kill switch. Undoo the two bullets, and rejoin the green wires. Job done.
Thanks Brock, that is exactly what I did when I first got the bike :thumbs
I put the male and female spade receptacles together, under the fairing, just above the gear change lever. I left the switch in place, and the neon indicator too. Why bother taking them out, and being left with the holes. So to switch back (if the next owner wants too) is easy.
I have also left the clipsal two pin 12V socket in the left fairing pocket. I had thought about pulling that out and fitting a lighter socket instead (for my Tom Tom). But haven't bothered as yet.
-
I removed the Clipsal socket, the wires had been cut away from that one. I installed a cig lighter socket next to the kill switch, as it filled the big hole that was there. Still have the headphone socket, but its not connected either.
-
I removed the Clipsal socket, the wires had been cut away from that one. I installed a cig lighter socket next to the kill switch, as it filled the big hole that was there. Still have the headphone socket, but its not connected either.
Hey Brock
You said you got your Saddleman dual seat re worked in Wangara or Malaga. Who did it? and how much did it cost? Because, darn, after some time driving on that firm gel seat, I think I may be staring to get piles :fp :rofl It was OK at first, but I think I may be getting "numb bum" using it. Either the gel is made by a concrete manufacturer, or the gel is only about 2mm thick. There is more padding in outside plastic, than under it :o
The damn seat holds the heat too. After I leave work (bike been in the sun since 6am) I get a bum tan, and the damn thing still feels like hot coals 30 mins later. I lift my bum off the seat as I travel up the freeway trying to get some cool air to the damn thing. (Must look funny from behind, like I am trying to ride over bumps, or about to do a moony :butt)
Whoevre designed that gel seat was a sadist for sure :spank
P.S I left my headphone socket there too, but I filled the centre with hot glue, then blacked the surface out. The thread under the socket had a rust farm staring :eek, so I thought I would stop the water getting in that way.
Keep smiling Brock
Mark
-
I think the seat was done by Scotts motor trimimng in Wangara. An excellent job, you can try it if you want. I left the rear seat with the original gel insert, as My Daughter was comfortable on it. Cost was $285 I think, well worth the money and it was a quick job.
The gel pad is quite thick, but boy it holds the heat.