OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => "How To..." Instructions and Pics for Regular Maintenance Jobs specific to the ST1300... => Topic started by: Shiney on February 26, 2017, 05:37:53 PM
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I just brought some new motorcycle boots and found that due to the shape of them I needed to raise the gearshift leaver so my boot would fit under it :fp
And so was born the following How To... :grin
In this How To I'll be covering how to move the gearshift pedal up (or down) as required on the ST1300 :thumbsup
1 Put the bike on the side stand
(This will raise the break pedal side where the adjustment will be made)
(https://image.ibb.co/hNfraF/20170225_154445_zpsyokk80pv.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/di7tpa/20170225_154510_zpsy5c3nqns.jpg)
2 Remove the black plastic lower faring that runs along the bike under the break pedal
(https://image.ibb.co/cjh4vF/20170225_154523_zpsxi6buxz9.jpg)
* Remove the push pins from the lower faring under the front of the bike
(https://image.ibb.co/dQntpa/20170225_154629_zpsoevr9viz.jpg)
* Remove the push pin from the lower faring above the break pedal (Screw type on the ST1300P)
(https://image.ibb.co/nB6a2v/20170225_154810_zpsaun2d786.jpg)
* Remove the hex bolts along the side of the lower faring
(Make sure to keep them in order as they aren't all the same length)
(https://image.ibb.co/d2PHFF/20170225_154700_zps20rik2pn.jpg)
3 Place the lower faring to the side out of the way
(https://image.ibb.co/kFRm9a/20170225_154959_zpsvaiwli4d.jpg)
Now we can access where the gearshift pedal link arm connects to the gearshift spindle
(https://image.ibb.co/cEsF2v/20170225_154951a_zpspu5v6edl.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/jVuHFF/20170225_155010_zpsmda2o7ng.jpg)
(The pic below is a photo from under the bike to give a better look at what we are working with :thumb)
(https://image.ibb.co/cZ1a2v/20170225_155044_zpsu7ezqxjo.jpg)
4 Mark where the gearshift pedal link arm connects to the gearshift spindle to give us a point of reference for the adjustment (I used a whiteout pen :wink1)
(https://image.ibb.co/mKTNhv/20170225_155645_zps2tvth6ai.jpg)
5 Remove the 10mm bolt from the gearshift pedal link arm
(https://image.ibb.co/judNhv/20170225_155804_zpskljj5ui8.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/kBZHFF/20170225_155850_zpsrvoffhap.jpg)
6 Wiggle the gearshift pedal link arm off the gearshift spindle then place it back on with the lines we made earlier misaligned. (Counterclockwise to raise the gearshift / Clockwise to lower)
(https://image.ibb.co/bTe69a/20170225_160701_zpsnjhsgvlf.jpg) (https://image.ibb.co/nuChhv/20170225_160713_zpsliydpjco.jpg)
* NOTE: If you are having difficulty moving the gearshift pedal link arm off the gearshift spindle use a flat head screwdriver to widen the gap shown in the pic below
(https://image.ibb.co/meeHFF/20170225_160718a_zps7mpeygqx.jpg)
7 Now sit on the bike and test the new height of the gearshift (make any adjustments needed to get it into a position you are happy with)
Before
(https://image.ibb.co/hNfraF/20170225_154445_zpsyokk80pv.jpg)
After
(https://image.ibb.co/bXMWaF/20170225_163929_zpspygeus30.jpg)
8 When you are happy with the position reinstall the 10 mm bolt then reinstall the black plastic lower faring.
9 Go for a test ride :runyay
I hope this is of some help to you all
Cheers
Shiney
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A good "how to" with excellent photos. Many thanks.
And I suspect you had a major clean of the area, since it ain't natural for the underside to be that clean (except for you-know-who). :whistle
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:well
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I have a mate who details the underside of his SS Dunnydore before he takes it in for a service. He reckons they treat his car with respect because he keeps it immaculate. I admire his commitment. And his name is NOT you know who. :grin
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Thanks Biggles :hatwave
The secret to it being so clean is that it's still a fairly new bike (just a little over 12000 km on the clock :eek)
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Thanks Biggles :hatwave
The secret to it being so clean is that it's still a fairly new bike (just a little over 12000 km on the clock :eek)
Most bikes get dirtier than that in 12,000 kays. You just need to ride in the rain instead of being a "sugar-baby". :crackup
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Very good Shiney :thumbsup
Now I just have to get new boots so that I can try it out :grin
By the way what boots did you get :popcorn
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Thanks Biggles :hatwave
The secret to it being so clean is that it's still a fairly new bike (just a little over 12000 km on the clock :eek)
Most bikes get dirtier than that in 12,000 kays. You just need to ride in the rain instead of being a "sugar-baby". :crackup
I think riding it in the rain has been keeping it a bit cleaner ;-*
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Very good Shiney :thumbsup
Now I just have to get new boots so that I can try it out :grin
By the way what boots did you get :popcorn
Thanks mate :hatwave
The new boots are SIDI Adventure 2 Gore-Tex
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/dabc9a974db34e8039fe13dfcb6b27f6.jpg)
I picked them up from:
https://www.biker-land.de/en/Motorcycle-Boots-and-Shoes/SIDI-Adventure-2-Gore-Tex-boots.html?language=en¤cy=AUD&switch_country=AU&products_id=57570086 (https://www.biker-land.de/en/Motorcycle-Boots-and-Shoes/SIDI-Adventure-2-Gore-Tex-boots.html?language=en¤cy=AUD&switch_country=AU&products_id=57570086)
Cheers
Shiney
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Be a bugger if they didn't fit and you had to take them back...
A lot of unrest in Germany, apparently. :grin
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They are shiny....
o:)
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I have been known to use Prepsol to remove road grime (tar) from the inside of those bellypans when I had mine STripped down....I know right....
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Be a bugger if they didn't fit and you had to take them back...
A lot of unrest in Germany, apparently. :grin
I was looking at boots locally with a mate and tried on a number of boot brands (The SIDI Adventure Gore-Tex were the best but very expensive at around $800)
My mate also liked them and went looking around for a price he was happy to pay while I was thinking of just sticking with work boots.
He came across the German site and found the version 2 on sale (Locally they are insanely expensive at around $1000 :eek)
Well the price was damn good so I also ordered a pair :thumbsup
Anyway they fit great :thumb
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I have been known to use Prepsol to remove road grime (tar) from the inside of those bellypans when I had mine STripped down....I know right....
Thanks for the tip mate :hatwave
:think1 :think1 You should do a "How To..." on bike cleaning. What works, what doesn't and so on along with any other pro tips you have :thumbsup
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Next you'll be asking the Colonel for the 11th ingredient :rofl
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THE PICTURES HAVE BEEN UPDATED ++
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Hi team - tried to do this today and just want to point out that there is an adjustment rod between the gear shift linkage arm and the gear shifter. There is no need to take the bolt out of the spindle even. All you need is a 10mm spanner. Loosten the lock nut at each end and turn the adjustment rod. It raises and lowers the gear shifter.
A trick is to wait until you have to remove the oil filter as the top of the adjustment rod is behind it. I'd just replaced mine as I'd just done an oil change. Made it take an hour instead of 2 minutes.
If you adjust the spigot on the spindle more than 2 splines, you will run into clearance issues on the gear shifter as it changes the angle of the gear shifter. Use the adjustment rod instead!
The adjustment rod is highlighted in the photo with an arrow. Leave the splines alone!
2002 ST named Terrence (after the angry birds movie character)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/20cbb65cea1e98b36411bb2aea6d68e0.jpg)
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That's handy to know, thanks for the heads up, prricey! :thumbs