OzSTOC
Honda ST1300 Section => Electrics & Electronics - Volts, Amps and Fuses ST1300 => Topic started by: Simmo50 on August 27, 2018, 11:07:31 PM
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ive just added these led lights to the rear of my bike.
got the running lights working fine just tapped into rear light.
got the brake light working fine.
tapped into the indicator wire and the indicators arent fully lighting up.
but when i put a seperate live to them (to check) they are a lot brigther.
am i doing something wrong
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What's happening load is being split between the incandescent bulbs (which will draw most of the current) and the LEDs. That's because the LEDs have a higher internal resistance.
The best way, is four relays fed via fuse from the battery, one for brake lights, one for tail lights and one each for the indicators.
The coils on the relays shouldn't load the incandescent bulbs, and the LEDs then get full battery voltage and current.
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It could be done with 3 relays if the brake/tail is done with a single pole double throw relay.
The tail lights are hooked up to the de-energised pole, and the brakes to the energised pole. So it effectively runs with tail or brakes lights, not both at once.
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the tail amd brake lights seem to be ok its just the indicators i think
dont know anything about this relay business. what do i need to do
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This is what I meant for the trail/brake lights.
I'll try to do a drawing for the indicators.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/c4bcb01107adf8f01e84e43dbc848fd6.jpg)
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This is what I meant for the indicators.
The fuse should be big enough to run both indicators simultaneously if you have a hazard lights switch.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/8c8399650d90b901e7c3e56962ad3671.jpg)
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A fuse is an electrically operated switch.
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sorry mate dont have a clue what any of this means or what to do with it
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They are circuit diagrams. (Or wiring diagrams)
A relay has a coil which magnetically pulls a metal rod from a resting position to an energized position. When it does that, it changes the switch from the normally closed (NC) position to the normally open (NO) position.
Circuit diagrams are drawn with the relays in the normally closed position for standardization reasons.
The +12V is the battery source or preferably a switched source when the ignition is on.
Hopefully this drawing explains it better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/8751eee08f224daf24988526f7c02555.jpg)
So when you turn the left indicator on, the voltage applied to the left bulb, activates the left relay, closing the switch and connecting the LEDs to the 12 Volt source turning on the left LEDs.
Same for the right.
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where do you get these relays from.
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where do you get these relays from.
Any auto shop- e.g. Autobarn, Super Cheap Auto.
You might need to get help if you're clueless about electrics. There's potential for damage if you get it badly wrong, but fine if you can follow the circuit drawings. Relays have numbers on their poles, which you need to relate to the pix "NC" and "NO".
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This is what a relay looks like
(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/e79a9a9b-e796-4b91-ad0b-d1cd601dfd5d/svn/viair-control-signaling-devices-93940-64_1000.jpg)
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ok im a bit wiser . so im assuming this has its own 12v fused feed. will this flash with the original indicator
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Relays aren't black magic. They are a great bit of kit that will be your new best friend.
The easiest way to install them is to treat them like your light (new LEDs). Connect them to your switch and battery like you would connect your light to your battery and switch. If your in doubt pretend your installing a new bulb.
If you are pretending that this little black box (the relay) is a new bulb, the easiest place to get power is the wire that is running to your current light (indicator in this instance). So splice (join another wire) into the current indicator wire and connect that to terminal 85 of the relay. To finish the circuit, run a wire from terminal 86 of the relay to your battery negative terminal. If you want to be a little cheeky the frame of your bike is the same as the negative on your battery. (Not the plastic bits, just the metal)
Ta-da, the relay is installed. When you indicate and your current indicator flashes, the relay should go tick-tick-tick in sync with your indicator. That is the switch inside the relay turning on and off.
Here is where the magic happens... you need to stop thinking of the relay as a light bulb and now think of it as a switch.
Because this relay is now a switch you will need a wire (don't go cheap on this one, get something bigger than speaker wire) and connect the battery positive terminal to the relay on terminal 87. Now connect a wire from terminal 30 of the relay to your brand new lights. From the other side of your lights (and here is a really, really important point) connect the wire to an inline fuse. From the other side of the inline fuse run a wire to the negative terminal of your battery. Probably not the frame this time.
Now when you turn your indicator on your new LEDs will flash.
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The bits I think I forgot to mention.
The terminals on the relay (85,86,87,30) will be stamped on the bottom on the relay next to the legs (terminals).
Relays can handle lots of current. So don't mess around with the wire you use. Gadget will probably tell you the actual size needed but I go for 1mm diameter (of the copper, not the plastic).
Did I mention you will need an inline fuse. I know you mentioned it on your last post (12v fused supply), but the relay will unleash the power of your battery and there is no opps button, unless you have an inline fuse between terminal 30 and the battery, then all is well. (On the terminal 85,86 side which connects to your current indicator another fuse is not necessarily needed. The indicator fuse will protect that part.
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thanks for all the input. i got the relays and after some head scratching i managed to do it
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Cool,
If you are near the Joondalup area, we can arrange to meet and possibly fix any small errors you may have made.
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Outstanding!
Quote from: Simmo50 on August 28, 2018, 07:10:36 PM (http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=12974.msg1243258#msg1243258)<blockquote>thanks for all the input. i got the relays and after some head scratching i managed to do it
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thanks for all the input. i got the relays and after some head scratching i managed to do it
Great to hear. I'm sure your knowledge and confidence has gone up heaps!
Always feel free to ask. As you've seen, no-one mocks; we're all happy to help.
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Pleased to hear you have it sorted.
Brock and I have similar backgrounds so I'd suggest if you are near him, take up his offer to take a look at it. He's a wealth of knowledge and expertise.
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thanks brock will take you up on that. i will contact you when ive got a bit of spare time if thats ok
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++ :beer