Brake Pad Change

[alans1100]

After doing a pad change on my 1100 I consider myself an expert. Just kidding.

The pads were changed by a dealer at 60,000 kms. They used aftermarket pads. They worked ok I all ways had what sounded like the rear pads in contact with the disc.

Anyway around 110-115,000kms I ordered at OE pads for both wheels from England and fitted them myself. Cheaper than local dealer including freight.

I did the back set first and then discovered I only need to remove the pad retaining bolt on the caliper and both pads slid out. Also noted that dealer had left out the thin metal spacer between the pads and the caliper pistons.
To make room for the new pads I gently inserted a screw driver to push the pistons in, pads in, pad location bolt back in and all finished. Same for the front. I think it took about 30 to 40 minutes for me a learner to do the pad change.

 
Alan
 

[saaz]

The pads on the ST11 (and ST13 I presume) are a doddle to change. It may be worth taking the front caliper apart a bit more sometime to grease the pins on which the caliper slides along. They can dry up after a while.  A bit of a squirt of brake cleaner before pushing on the pistons is also good preventative maintenance, as some of the dirt around the pistons may get into the seal/piston bore.  These things seem to matter a lot more in the UK due to their salted roads in winter.

[Greencan]

Well done that Man ...I have to change 4 drums and re-shim the brakes one of my bikes that I've been putting off for months...when are you free ::)

I did the back set first and then discovered I only need to remove the pad retaining bolt on the caliper and both pads slid out. Also noted that dealer had left out the thin metal spacer between the pads and the caliper pistons

...maybe not, I have noticed that there are some after market pads that are serviced without that perforated plate...and you did say 'dealer' ...right

A friend of mine recently phoned me quite chuffed with his recent purchase of 3 complete sets of pads for his ABS variant 1100 for the grand sum of $37 the lot landed here in Oz...funny enough his too didn't have the perforated plates...they did however have a reassuring note on the back of each pack saying "no asbestos inside"

On a more lighter note...saaz is spot on regarding the lubrication of the pins etc, particularly on the anti-dive (R), side...I routinely (whenever the front wheel comes out), thoroughly clean all the components and with a small watch makers type screw driver rotate and re-grease the needle rollers with a grease like Moreys or such like...a little more difficult (unless the left can is removed), is the locating pin on the rear that goes through the left side of the swing are, but it too should be regularly cleaned and re-greased...ought to be able to screw it in with your fingies.

Just a thought

Ciao, the can :)

[alans1100]

Well done that Man ...I have to change 4 drums and re-shim the brakes one of my bikes that I've been putting off for months...when are you free ::)

I did the back set first and then discovered I only need to remove the pad retaining bolt on the caliper and both pads slid out. Also noted that dealer had left out the thin metal spacer between the pads and the caliper pistons

...maybe not, I have noticed that there are some after market pads that are serviced without that perforated plate...and you did say 'dealer' ...right

Yes, a country Honda dealer fitted after market pads as they were way cheaper than original. Apart from tyre changes that was the first time I had the bike in the shop for anything and at 60,000kms I got them to do the rear drive oil change as well.

Drum brakes.????......forget it, I have enough trouble just adjusting the rear brake on my partners Lifan V250 when I have to adjust the chain.

[steverfs]

I too suffered the noise of metal to metal on the rear disc on the return from Kiama to Orange via the backway (Goulburn via Bundanoon then up via Taralga to Oberon  then home) not the best place to hear the noise of metal to metal - checked before I left too.. did a lot more heavy braking than anticipated... happend when you try to keep up with sport bikes. Never-the-less, bought pads on line from MAC at Parra when I got home - fst delivery but paid the price ($60) plus delivery..still alot cheaper than having the dealer do the job - only had to skim the discs on the lathe - 5 thou one side and 10 on the other.. Next item on the agenda after I do the hisband stuff will be the front discs BEFORE they go metal !! - Steve

[alans1100]

Rather than start a new topic I'll reopen this one.

Fitted the new brake pads today at 164660 km so that's the 4th set since new. LH front inner pad was the worst so made sure all three callipers were moving left to right before putting new pads in.

For the basic pad change there isn't really much to it. This time I used the Goldfren ceramic pads instead of the usual OEM sintered metal ones.

A screw driver to remove the cover for the pad retaining bolt. Front LH shown but all three ABS/CBS callipers are the same (96 and newer).



Then remove the pad retaining bolt and the pads should just about fall out (front).



I noticed the LH Front inner pad was worn worse than the outer so calliper possibly sticking and not moving left to right so before putting new pads in make sure calliper moves freely.



You will also need to make sure all three pistons are pushed back in which is better done before you remove the pads.

The new pads should go in easily if all the pistons have been push back in. The pad retaining bolt won't go in if the pad isn't seated properly and with the front it's better to do the outer pad first as you can use the retaining bolt to keep it in place while doing the inner pad. Lightly grease the retaining bolt as well. When the inner pad is in place slide the retainer bolt in and then tighten it up and replace the cover.

Unlike the standard 1100 the ABS/CBS model requires front and rear pads to be changed at the same time as you're using both front and rear brakes regardless if your using hand or foot brakes.

I did mine with the callipers and wheel in place but doing a pad replacement at the same time as a front tyre replacement might be easier.

If it's time to do a fluid change then do that as well which I did.

Once it's all done you will have to pump the brakes a few times before going for that all important test ride around the block. Just make sure the brakes work before you leave home. Test the hand and foot brakes separately and then both together a few times especially if you've replaced the fluid.

I adjusted the rear brake light switch as well as it never seemed to activate as early as the front brake.

 

[Biggles]

In his post on the subject, saaz also recommends using a toothbrush and solvent to clean the pistons' circumference before pushing them back in.

[saaz]

A good clean of around the pistons and seals prevents or minimizes damage from grit on the pistons and seals when you push them in.

[spanner]

I am just about to change the brake pads ....just orderd some from metal gear.

Are the back calipers the same as the front in terms of ease of access and changeing process?  ie just remove the caliper screw thingy with a allen key whatsit and bobbetts your aunty?

[alans1100]

I am just about to change the brake pads ....just orderd some from metal gear.

Are the back calipers the same as the front in terms of ease of access and changeing process?  ie just remove the caliper screw thingy with a allen key whatsit and bobbetts your aunty?

You'd need to remove the side case to gain easier access to retaining bolt but other than it's just as easy. Probably a little less drama as the rear pads will sit in place once located where the front ones tend to fall out.

[spanner]